I need a new distributer because my timing is kinda walking around on me so I figured I'd look around a bit but I'm not sure on what to look for in a performance distributer, what's good voltage and whatnot. I think I want an above average system because that's what I think is the most cost effective b/c I don't have a full bore combo. I really don't know what I want exept I have a budget of $350 max. I do run at the dragstrip as often as I get a chance and I also drive it everyday. I do have a good set of accel wires already so that's done.

Most on this site will tell you that a HEI is all you need. I have HEI in my '33 and a MSD 'ready to run' in my Chevelle. Both have been solid and reliable, the MSD is much better looking, if that means anything.

I second that... if you don't mind the look HEI will suit your application well.

$350 is about $150 more than you need. Go for a standard HEI with an MSD Module....THAT'S IT... you can spend more for looks if you choose but why not put the extra towards something that will actually help you go faster, stop better, etc. or take your girl out for dinner 3 or 4 times...That would be a better investment than an ignition box for just about any street/strip ride and many strip only rides.

just a factory reman? I have an HEI currently so that would be an easy fix.

Spark is Spark...Yes a good HEI will do the trick

Very high cylinder pressures, blown motors turbo motors, high RPM, exotic fuels, those can warrant higher current or spark demands.

Would a Top Fuel Magneto make an 11 second ride faster?? No it wouldn't. The manufacturers would like you to think so, but it just isn't so.

Has anyone really ran faster when switching from a set of wires that was working properly to a more expensive set of 10 or more mm thick?...Nope.

How about a triple platinum 4 electrode super spark plug versus an AC or NGK...Nope not faster there either..

Just like the shock nut trick, optimizing your tire pressure, a simple and reliable HEI..performance bargains can be found that actually work...

Water wetter for $7 a bottle works good too...

I agree with the HEI choice. MSD makes an excellent module....more of a circuit board....that goes inside.
The only hard thing about the HEI is setting up the curve correctly, but a good tune up shop should be able to help.
Ron

I'm surprised no-one addressed this, maybe I'm reading the post wrong. If you have an HEI sitting around, great! You wont have to spend any additional money. Now you didn't describe your timing moving around, but if it is moving back and forth while at a steady, low enough rpm, there is also the possibility your timing chain is stretched. Just kinda a tell tale sign, but I hope it's not the case for you.
Best of Luck!!

I found my other hei in my closet so should I replace all of the electrical parts and call it good?

im curious, whats your idle speed at?

when you say the timing is walking around on you what exactly do you mean? is the distributor moving? or is the initial timing and or the idle rpm unsteady?

what about vacuum advance? are you running ported or full manifold vacuum?

there are quite a few things that can cause this, give us more details so we can help sort the problem out.

1st I suggest to check all the things mentioned by others...

Once everything BUT your distributor is ruled out, rebuild it. Take it completely apart and clean it well, replace the cap and rotor, put in a low resistance bushing, replace the module with a MSD or other high performance module, replace the gear if necessary, add a new coil (external coils are my preference), shim up the shaft endplay, set up your advance with a crane adjustable vacuum advance kit, and set up your mechanical timing with an aftermarket kit or GM weights and center plate.

Originally posted by RatONaStick:
im curious, whats your idle speed at?
when you say the timing is walking around on you what exactly do you mean? is the distributor moving? or is the initial timing and or the idle rpm unsteady? what about vacuum advance? are you running ported or full manifold vacuum?
my idle is set at 800rpm and when I unplug the vac advance and plug the ported vacuum line, the timing is set at 12* initial and 28* total but when the idle is turned up to around 3500 the timing goes between 28-31*. I have a new accel cap/rotor and stock coil on this distributer and accel wires. at idle the timing is steady 12* but gets a little wierd at 3500+, every couple of revolutions it will move a little maybe 28 then 30 then 28 then 31 then 30 and so on. I checked the timing set by turning the crank forward abd backward and watching the rotor and it stopped when I stopped and changed direction when I changed. I don't think that it is stretched. now that I think about it maybe it's the mechanical advance mechanism getting sticky??????
any way I figured it needs a new dist since it is the same one that I bought the car with 3 years ago who bought it from a repo auction for $1100. I'm pretty sure ther's no telling how old it is. I dunno if all this warrants a new one or not. :confused:

it sounds like you are on the right track, and it seems like an easy fix. in my opinion that doesnt warrant buying a new distributor but if you want to, be my guest. i would rather invest the money in something i or the car really needed.

well I bit the bullet today and bought a new distributer b/c I figure I have less stuff to mess up as far as assembly. it is an Accel replacementish $130 hei that has everything but the coil, fancy that mine is new! I can't run it for another 10 minutes cause I'm waiting for my glue to set for my valve cover, hopefully that seals :( . I started it for a couple of minutes b/f I "fixed" (knock on wood) my valve cover seal and even cold it is running alot better. I did a quick set on the initial timing for 16* at 800rpm without vacuum. I think I'll set it again in the morning to rock and roll. I also need to try out my new water pump b/c when I opened my garage this morning to go to work the rail ripped out of the wall somehow :confused: . with that fixed, new water pump, and distributer I hope I can stop spending quite so much money as I have been this past 3 weeks! tongue.gif

you probably dont need 16 degrees @ 800 RPM. What cam are you running?

dual pattern comp 270h: 270 adv.; 224 @ .050; .470"
I just got back from my test drive and this 'ol sob has come alive, there is a little more tuning to be done but I like the progress that it has made! now it likes to run nice and smooth with a little rumpity rump! and best of all my dern valve cover don't leak! I can't wait to really play with different timing settings...it's a shame that a billet distributer has to be covered up :cool: maybe I'm getting used to this mechanic stuff :D

glad to hear you got it solved, even if you did take the easy way out. ;) graemlins/thumbsup.gif

it ruuuns now! tongue.gif

to get it better I started tinkering and ended up with 9* initial, and 31* total plus whatever my vacuum is... 4* I think. does that sound better Nickel? :confused: