Having trouble deciding between the following makers. Dart, World, Edelbrock and any others. Any help from those who have experience good or bad.

It would be best if you stated what type of engine you are using (small or big block). The displacement. What type of compression ratio you want. And more importantly what are your goals for the engine/car. If you want a certain ET on your timeslip, MPH, etc. If you're working with a big block you need to say what RPM range you're working with and what type of pistons you have. Piston type would be helpful with small blocks too.

Tell these guys some of the above info and they'll help you choose a good head, or a few good heads.

It's a 383 short block, flat top pistons 9:5 comp. Going into a 70, th350, 2.73 rear. No plans to race, but want some HP/torque.

AFR

Anybody have comments on Dart Iron Eagle or World SportmanII 180cc For a street driven 383? (I'm thinking of building a similar compression 383 with at the most TH350/3.36s)

AFR 180's or 195's.

I'm looking at a set of Dart iron eagle 200cc/72cc 2.02 1.6 for $800 a set new. Is that too much of a head for a cruiser?

Just beware of the"complete head" for cheap. always have a machine shop check them out..most need a valve job/springs set up and use inferior parts. Even buying bare heads can be tricky. I try to buy locally...that way if theres a problem..the shipping dosent kill me

Here are the specs for the valve set up. good or bad?

Elgin 21-4N stainless steel valves with undercut stems for high flow
Pioneer Z28 style 1.250" OD single valve springs with damper
Spring Specs: 110#@1.700 90#@1.750 325#@1.200 Coil bind @1.150
Hardened 7° valve spring retainers and locks
Hardened 3/8" screw-in rocker arm studs
5/16" push rod guide plates
Valve stem seals

Originally posted by Slowpoke70:
Anybody have comments on Dart Iron Eagle or World SportmanII 180cc For a street driven 383? (I'm thinking of building a similar compression 383 with at the most TH350/3.36s) Hey, Enrique, I have SP II's on my bracket car. I thought they were all 200cc ports. Anyway, I real happy with them. I have WP SR Torquers (170cc ports) on my driver and am very happy with them, too. The SP II's have had some bowl and chamber work done on them. They respond to porting extremely well. If I were to do it again, I'd probably spend the extra several hundred dollars and get AFRs.

195cc Trick Flow Specialties 23* heads would be good to if you want to go aluminum but don't want to spend over $1000. I bought mine for for $825 and put them on my 383. Couldn't be happier.

Yeah, Pat, you're probably right about the SPII's. I'm looking into heads from 170cc-180cc tho because if i build this 383 it's not gonna be revving up high. Just a torquey street engine. I just liked the 350's torque so much better than the 305's that i got to thinking "a 383 would be nice if i could build it during the next couple of years".

Not sure yet, on anything though. I do want to get this car into the mid-13s and stay small-block though. That's my goal by the time i get out of college (4 years left to do it).

Originally posted by usmcanglico:
Here are the specs for the valve set up. good or bad?

Elgin 21-4N stainless steel valves with undercut stems for high flow
Pioneer Z28 style 1.250" OD single valve springs with damper
Spring Specs: 110#@1.700 90#@1.750 325#@1.200 Coil bind @1.150
Hardened 7° valve spring retainers and locks
Hardened 3/8" screw-in rocker arm studs
5/16" push rod guide plates
Valve stem seals =
Sounds like a pretty fair deal.
The valves & springs are a decent pieces for what you are doing but I would question what studs they are using.
Also, what type of seals?

If you email me I can do the heads for a pretty fair price with quality parts & we do take the time to check & assemble them properly in house. ;)

Thanks Wolf.