pics of some floor and trunk work on customers car. everything is butt welded with zero overlap.14126

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Duraglass followed after epoxy but those pics are to come. I used butt weld clamps from HF and a flat head screw driver was very handy when getting everything flush. Skip around welding and hammer and dolly the oil cans turned this out very good.

Very nice work indeed!

For rust protection i used epoxy and Chassis Saver on all the non seen panels. I have a neat trick i use for seam sealing the seams. I use a needle and shringe that is used for greasing non greasable ball joints. Shoot it in the seams and presto. Factory seams still there and extra protection.

Mike,
Looks like some nice work.
But, I think you should invest in a better camera. I would think if you are taking pictures for clients or customers whom want photos, clearer pictures would be an added benefit to your business...Eric

Yes eric, my razor did take the best pics. However its crapped on me recently. I have several good quality cameras one costing $500 but the soft ware does not get along with my windows VISTA.

One more thing. Some of you are thinking i dont take everything down and half ass stuff. I do go to metal. I do it differently though. There is no one in my area that media blasts so I use a big wire wheel on a 9 inch grinder. I only do the areas that i am working on because i get afraid of flash rust. Then the areas that need more stripping i then continue. The area i cant get to with the wire wheel i use a scotch brite pad on die grinder and chemical stripper. Recently i purchased a soda blaster from eastwood. Hope this thing helps me since i am getting more business. Anyway after stripping to metal i use MATRIX epoxy. This stuff is great. I also use SPI sometimes and like the SPI a little better but the matrix holds its own trust me. I then use red oxide on the bottom for the customers who request this. I also mix the red oxide in urethane sometimes and will be going this route on the trans am.