That are not using a transbrake, although I don't know if you would at this level anyway, but are using a an automatic for an apples to apples here, are you flooring it off the line? Or do you still have to ease into it at this level? Tom MC71454 are you transbraked? I am not in the market for one I am just not sure how people are going about things..
Although I suppose that question is hard to answer because you could have a 1.5x 60' 13 second car, and its very likely you are flooring it..
I have decided that I am going to buy a set of 28" ET Streets or the Hoosier equivalent, and I don't think I am dreaming to expect a relatively easy 1.6x 60' with them with just my regular aftermarket boxed, stock springed, air bag, sway bar and never-adjusted removal required to adjust koni's. not exactly sure which brand of tire I will get yet or if it matters (no tubes no screws, my PSI never goes below 16 cold anyway, so far and probably stay that way). I didn't realize how expensive a set of welds are, I was thinking 150 something then I pop onto the site and they are like 220+. I couldn't find any other brands of non-import looking wheels I could use for racing that are in the 150 range.. (anyone know?) If those stupid bart steel wheels would clear my disc brakes, I'd be all set as we speak, with like $30ea wheels..
Obviously I need to focus and practice my launch technique (of which there really isn't one at this point, just brake the RPM to a little bit above my 1000rpm hot idle and get into it as quick as possible). The 26" slicks while they "work" to a certain degree are undermining the rest of the car. Besides, I have a buddy with a turbo mustang (stupid little @$(@(! @#$!!! thing cooks!! 525rwhp at 6psi!) who I can sell my 26"s to for cheap.

So #1 for me here is to get some tires, that and I am having custom tailpipes bent because I have ruined part of my paint job from pipes I can't get to hang right (that little panel under the chrome bumper).

Thanks

Matt

I bring the car to just above idle, say 1500 or so. On the last amber, off the brakes and full throttle. If you bring the launch rpm too high you will extend the suspension, you don't want that. You can test to see what rpm the suspension rises and launch just below that. One guy I know, leaves at dead idle, that is, he hold his foot off the pedal until launch then mashes the pedal. Works for him. All this assumes that the tires will hook. For any consistancy you don't want to be having to modulate the throttle. It's very hard to do that the same every time and 60' times will be all over the place.

What Pat said is what has worked best for me. If I stall it up over 2200 or so the front end will rise so I try to keep it around 15-1800 and then nail it when I see the last amber light up.

That would explain I think to some degree that my 11.8 sec pass the other day would not have been repeated even if I didn't miss a shift or slip on oil. I can't floor the 26*10.5 ET Streets or they just go up in smoke, so I kept having to ease into the throttle. The 11.8 60' was 1.825, the other two 60's were 1.9x's.
But you all would expect I would be able to just pretty much nail the throttle all the way if I bought a set of 28*12.5R15 ET Streets?

Thanks

Matt

I bump up the idle once I get to the track so it is about 1200 to 1300 in Drive. That way it is always the same and it doesn't preload the suspension. No transbrake, never had and never will. with my foot barely touching the pedal, on the third Amber I floor it. Hope this helps.

with 28 x 11.50 x 15 E.T. Streets I leave just off idle, about 1,100 rpm - then nail it completely.

Thomas

In that case I am def going to buy either MT ET Streets or the Hoosier equivalent. Anyone have anything to say to shift me in one direction or the other? I am going for a 28*12.5R15.
The idea of being able to mash it at just off idle at the starting line instead of feathering it for the first 30 feet is, well, very appealing..
Its going to be an expensive change though, I have rear discs and the welds I see are $220 for ones that have "increased rear brake clearance" and like 150 for the ones that don't. If I am going to order a set of 15*10's I want to fit, but $220-245(each) is steep for for a set of wheels I only use occasionally. If I was sure the $150 ones would clear my brakes, I'd buy them. With the ET Streets at like 177 a pop, I am looking at like about $800. Anyone know of a wheel company that makes cheaper wheels suitable for race applications? I can honestly understand the tire price, since my street BFGs cost way more (which is why you don't see me roasting them..)

Like I said I don't think a lazy 1.6x 60' is unreasonable with a set of slicks correct for my car, and going to 28" will elimiate the need for me to consider shifting into OD at the top end of the track.

Thanks for the help..

matt

My Nova is a bit of a different animal cause it's a leaf spring car. But for a car that hoks, the leave would be the same.
As others have said, too much rPM at the line extends the front suspension using up all of the weight transfer before the car even moves. So you want to figure out what rPM keeps the front end down.
When a car is set up right, you see the last yellow and mash it. Another thing leaving at a lower RPM does is to help the converter flash higher.
Another reason to vary the RPM at launch is to either keep from red lighting, or cutting a better light.
Personally, I think if you are going to change the tires at the track, buy real slicks.
I use good old fashioned Centerline wheels, the old spun alum solid style. Not the prettiest anymore, but cheaper than the new Welds etc.
I use Hoosier 10x29's set at 11-12psi and the car 60ft's right at 1.50. Mph around 120.
Ron

I'd buy real slicks, but you cannot (as in not allow) run them on Wed/Friday night racing at new england dragway. They only allow DOT Slicks, and last time I was up there, the were actually giving people a hard time about tread depth/wear inside the DOT slicks, which I haven't ever heard of..
If I was going to go the slick route, I'd have alot more questions. But since the track I will be racing at on the days I will be racing at do not allow slicks, then, thats where I am.. its not because I drive them on the street or whatever.

So there's my reasoning for that..

Matt

The Hoosier QT Pro does not "bulge out" between the rim and the tread as much as the ET Street. As a rule of thumb, you can install one size larger in a Hoosier QT Pro than you can in an ET Street. I fit 28x13.5's in my wheel wells with a 5.5 BS 15x10. I did have to trim the lip on the 1/4 panel, but when the wheel opening moulding is in place you cannot tell.

All I can say is the QT Pro's work...Period !!!

I have never tried an ET Street only installed one to test the fit.

http://www.boomspeed.com/mc71454/wrinkle2.jpg

Tom would you mind sometime going out to your car and physically measuring how wide the tire is?
I have fit p315/35's onto my car with a mega-backspacing wheel, but they aren't 28" tall and I had to trim a little bit out of the wheelwell lip with a sawzall. You can't tell on mine either with the trim peice in place.
A 28*12.5 on a 15*10 w/ 5.5BS I just know there is enough room to fit, but I'd be leary of a 28*13.5 on a 5.5. But my p315's have a 6.5" backspace and just, just fit.
I sort of noticed that about the bulge thing from pictures and I noticed in the summit catalog that came yesterday they changed the picture of the ET Street to make it look less "puffy."
So you are sort of saying the sidewalls on the hoosier are a little "straighter?"
Also I can't tell 100% from the picture, but are you using rim screws? And from that I suspect you have to use tubes because it yucks the beadlock? Or not?
You car is on par weight wise with mine, so its a good apples to apples..

matt

Sure Matt I can do that..Yes I use Rim Screws. No Tubes, Never have. 6 years running H QT Pro's.

Yes the sidewall is straighter on the Hoosiers. I will give you measurements with 20 pounds in the tire...will have to measure them tomorrow (Sunday).

Thanks, I appreciate that.

How can you use rim screws w/o tubes?? I thought that was next to impossible?
Do you think a possible 1.6x 60' needs rim screws, or should I do the line test before trying rim screws? I'd really hate to blow a set of $245ea wheels by blowing it with the rim screws. I am going to call baer and ask if they know if the cheaper welds (like 150 each) will fit over their rear disc brakes, the expensive ones say "increased brake clearance for modern (I'm assuming disc brake) cars."
I know I can get a wide tire under there, it just takes some wacky backspacing.
But should I be concerned with tire growth if I do gamble on the big ones? not vertical per say, but do the tires grow out to the side as they get hot? Or just taller?

matt

Never had a problem with the rim screws and no tubes.

Oh wait first time I used the screws I had a little leak in one screw, I used some tire patch rubber cement on the threads. You should do this to each rim screw....I did from then on.

You could always use some type of bead sealer, keep a white stripe on the rim and tire. But then pay the price of breaking the bead when removing the tires once you need new ones.

as far as a 1.60 60 foot needing rim screws, my tires were moving around in the 1.80's. but every car is different.

I really wouldn't think you would be "blowing a set of wheels" They are just part of wanting to go fast. Why the rear Disk Brakes ????

Because drums look relly dumb behind 17*11 wheels with p315/35 g-force KD's wrapped around them.
in street trim the car is like all out pro-touring look. The only thing I do when I go to the track is toss on the DOT slicks and turn the front shocks to soft and when I give it enough throttle to not spin I get from 1.8-1.85 60's, if I give it too little, I get 1.9's, if I give it too much, they go up in smoke.
I am glad to know I could still get the same (basically, .025 off best) 60' with my stock GM rear springs back in there. I hated the bouncy ride of my lowered softer rear springs.
Besides, I get more g's from a 90-0 stop than I do 0-90 :D .

Once I dial the car I can't go any faster than 11.50's and I am not stuffing a cage into a # matching LS5. by blowing the wheels I meant screwing up putting the rim screws in..
The tires and I am probably going to dump my converter for something a little tighter, even if when I get the car to dead hook the stall speed seems around 3200-3600. I have a feeling this thing is costing me the 120mph I should be pulling off. I can't finger anything else. That and my gas mileage has dropped enormously and its not because of the loud pedal use either. Even with the vacuum advance still on. I went from 10mpg to half that with a cam swap? I don't know. I can't even drive to work and back without using about 1/4 tank.


Matt

yeah the drums would look funny behind those wheels.

matt dont know what size rear brakes you have but my buddy has z28 roters and s10 calipers on his ford 9 inch rear with regular 15x10 drag lights with no problems also i ran 28x11s slicks 0n my 66 with 1.50 sixties and never used tubes or screws.i did put a line on the tires and rim never noticed them slipping

BTW I run Hoosier QTPs with no rim screws and no tubes. The tires don't slip on the rims and I run pretty consistent 1.61-1.63 sec 60' times.

Car is a 68 Camaro running 11.5's