Not knowing that I should have put a bronze tip or roller fuel pump push rod in the engine I put in a standard rod. I have only done a couple of test drives for a total of less than 30 miles or so. I am changing out to a bronze tip until I can find a roller tip.

Did I screw up badly and mess up the cam or will I be all right? Anybody know where I can find a roller tip push rod for a BBC? I did not find one on Summit or Jegs.

Thanks

Mark

Factory had standard push rods and went many miles that way. Does your cam require it?

Factory had standard push rods and went many miles that way. Does your cam require it?

After a conversation with Comp Cams yes the cam requires at least a bronze tip, preferably a roller tip push rod. The tech guy said it is a maintenance item to be checked every 1,000-2,000 miles. The fuel pump is a Holley 170 GPH so the spring is a high pressure spring.

Hmm, now I'm wondering if I'll be ok. Just installed a new pump and rod and using a Lunati 60203 cam. I don't recall reading anything about a special push rod though

Hmm, now I'm wondering if I'll be ok. Just installed a new pump and rod and using a Lunati 60203 cam. I don't recall reading anything about a special push rod though
that's because you don't need one with that cam. It would benefit you greatly if you went with a centerless ground one to eliminate float at higher RPM's.

How would a roller tip work, what would guide it ?

I run a steel billet roller cam and use a bronze tip hollow push rod, over a 1,000 miles no problems yet.

Unless you're going for a stealth, sleeper thing, I would take the mechanical pump off and go to an electric pump. Then there would be no issues at all. Mallory makes a continuous duty pump that works fine on the street. 'Had one in my Olds Cutlass for 6 years with out a problem.

just my .02

Unless you're going for a stealth, sleeper thing, I would take the mechanical pump off and go to an electric pump. Then there would be no issues at all. Mallory makes a continuous duty pump that works fine on the street. 'Had one in my Olds Cutlass for 6 years with out a problem.

just my .02

Electric pump is probably the best way to go. What are the details of doing this? Is there a different sending unit required? Can I use the brand new stock fuel tank and sending unit we modified with a 1/2" stainless line? How do we wire the pump in? How do we make sure it shuts off when we shut the motor off? What are the provisions to make sure it shuts off in case of an accident? Do I neeed to make a return line? How do we vent adequately to make sure we don't collapse the tank?

Probably a dozen other questions to ask about going to an electric pump. That's why I didn't go that way to begin with (plus the $$$ involved).

BUT (and there's almost always a BUT) what about the question about have I hurt the cam already after so few miles?

Thanks

Electric Fuel Pump

fused 12 ga wire from battery to relay (#30)
12 ga wire from relay (#87) to fuel pump

18 ga wire from fusebox (ignition buss)to relay (#85)
(you only want this running with the key in the "RUN" position)

18 ga wire from relay (#86) to one side of an inertia switch (I have a Ford unit on my 59)

18 ga wire from other side of inertia switch to ground.

Hidden toggle switch between inertia switch and ground will provide some theft prevention.

Drop your oil filter and check for shavings, should be a good clue on the condition of that fuel pump lobe.

Worst case is that the cam lobe is galled and you have to leave the pushrod out - re-install the fuel pump for looks and install an electric one for go. The mechanocal pump will just set there and fill the hole and look good. Actually, you probably haven't hurt anything yet due to the cam lube you put on everything at the install. Good luck with it.

....and as far as plumbing goes, what you have will work just fine. Do you have a stock return line in the tank? If not, you can get a sump from a later car, or just put one in on your sump. The sender will work fine, you're not changing anything there. The Mallory pump I reffered to, has a return line right at the pump, so you don't have to run a line all the way to the front of the car.

A side note: Mallory's pump is regulated to 15 psi. It's adjustable, but my recomendation is to leave it at 15 psi at the pump. If your car launches hard, it'll take that fuel pressure to break inertia for the fuel to get to the front of the car. Then put a regulator at the front of the car to bring it down to 8.5-9 psi. I had this problem with my car. It would launch hard but stumble right off the line. The inertia pulling forward on the car was interupting fuel flow. The set up I just described cleared it up.

As far as your cam goes. If you put an elecrtic pump on it, who cares if that lobe is wiped. It only runs the fuel pump. If you decide to run the mechanical pump, take out the push rod and look at the end of it. You're not gonna do damage to cam and not the push rod. If the rod looks ok, the cam is probably ok, too. Like Ed said, if there's damage, it'll have evidence of galling.

I do not have a return line to the tank. We fabbed up a 1/2" line out of the sending unit and have a -8 line from the sending unit to an inline filter with -8 in and out, then a -8 line to the pump. Then a -8 line from the pump to the regulator. Then two -6 lines from the regulator to the carb regulated at 6.5 lbs per the recommendation of the engine builder. There is a vent line off the sending unit to a filtered end and we also have a vented cap at the back.

We pulled the push rod and there was only minor evidence of some scratching on the end of the rod, no material missing. I will keep my eye on it with each oil change. The best thing will be to go to an electric fuel pump. Maybe I will do that over the next winter in time for next summer driving season. Where should I mount the electric fuel pump?

If you're going to take it out at each oil change to check it, why not just put the correct pushrod in there?

If you're going to take it out at each oil change to check it, why not just put the correct pushrod in there?

I should have been more clear. We did put a new bronze tip push rod in when we opened her up. Sorry about any confusion. I am still looking for a roller tip push rod for a big block.

Got it. :thumbsup: I'm in the same boat.

After a conversation with Comp Cams yes the cam requires at least a bronze tip, preferably a roller tip push rod. The tech guy said it is a maintenance item to be checked every 1,000-2,000 miles. The fuel pump is a Holley 170 GPH so the spring is a high pressure spring.

What cam if I might ask??

Scott:

The part number is 11-704-9. The grind is CB 300BR-8.

I should have been more clear. We did put a new bronze tip push rod in when we opened her up. Sorry about any confusion. I am still looking for a roller tip push rod for a big block.
What would stop pushrod from rotating.:confused:

Scott:

The part number is 11-704-9. The grind is CB 300BR-8.

Thanks Mark, I just wanted to make sure I didn't miss this when I did my cam...