When using a Lakewood housing with block plate and Lakewood fork do you need to use a longer TO bearing than the one used with stock GM bellhousing ??? Putting motor / trans back in car and realize I got the equivalent TO bearing to stock with my Mcleod clutch pkg.
Called Red at McLeod but he gone for the day!!!
Bill

CDN SS
The stock GM HD Needle bearing may work, BUT mine didn't with the block saver plates' added depth with my Lakewood Bell, C-Force ll clutch and flywheel.
The stock GM HD roller bearing for everything from the V6 V8 and the 6.7 oil burner is a new part number, and replaces the old GM part number.
Mine failed in one day, and we found that the added block saver depth was most of the cause.
I purchased a longer pilot bearing from
www.speedwaymotors.com (http://www.speedwaymotors.com) their part # 910-25800 it is bronze but is .250" longer than anyone elses, does not matter who's needle or bronze you buy, they are all the same length, except this one. It is specifically made for block saver, or rear mounted block plate applications.
The .250" longer portion stickes out the crank flange, and is also wider to carry more TQ thrust on its shoulders from the input shaft. Speedway may be open on Sat call them at 1-402-323-3200 the part was I think about $9.00, so I purchased 3 just to have spares.
I looked at your signature and am glad to help cause we have , almost the same combination Brodix Heads TKO-600 3:73 posi, solid roller, but of course we all know a mouse with 33 less cubes will eat a small rat for a snack!
Just kidding I am glad to help. The input shaft of my TKO-600 was heated up a bit with the GM stock bearing, and I don't want to see you have to tear apart the set-up just to put a new bearing in.
I have heard of this very rare, but with the block saver, it pays to have the longer bearing. I had a ST10 in the car prior to the TKO, and had put in no less than 3 pilots, 1 needle, 2 bronze thinking all the time it was a geometry problem with the ST10 / Bellhousing alignment.
When we put in the TKO, New bell, clutch etc., and immediatly took out the HD GM Bearing, we knew something else was a miss. With MUCH measurement, many heads, and one of the most respected tranny shops in Vancouver BC, we finally saw the short bearing as a culprit.
I have in excess of 3,000 miles on that longer bronze bearing and never had an issue.
The old shorter bearing like I said, was a nightmare with the blocksaver for years.
YES, we used Moroso Offset Dowel pins and more center bore dial indicators done than I can remember, it all lined up every time, but it always took the short bearing out.
By the way, did I already say, SB's RULE.
Hope this is helpful.
I have one on my desk I can take a digital of if someone wants to post it for him, me.

Interesting info, makes sense ..... Thanks
I was really asking about the Throwout bearing not the pilot bushing ..... I have a bronze pilot bushing installed already but not a longer one ....now you have me thinking ..
... somewhere I had read where the input shaft must go in the pilot bushing at least 1/2"
prior to installing the flywheel I installed the TKO 600 with just the bellhousing and block saver and it appeared the input did go in at least the 1/2"

Bill

16010 TKO Bearing is what is recommended by McLeod, Keisler,and others and we ended up using it.
I also used a adjustable ball stud part #16908 is a McLeods part #, but pretty much universal. The stock non-adjustable gave me a few fits, and the adjutable was a lot easier to get the free pedal, adjustments fine tuned.
Sorry about going on and on about that pilot, it gave me so much grief over the years with the T10, and then the Tremec, I tust saw a red flag on your post and charged it.