Since my new 505 BBC tore up my 200r4 trans, I decided to change to a TH400 trans and a Coan conveter. But in the process I'm losing the Overdrive capability of the 200r4. So that makes my 4.56 gears that I had with the small block way to low for the street driving I do, and I think the 4.56 is a little steep for a 505 BB anyway(but I may still test it at track before I switch gears)

I'm thinking I will to change to 3.73s, any other ideas? (I only drive an 11 mile stretch of 70mph highway a couple of times a month)

and, to stay on the safe side, I am going to replace my stock axle shafts while I'm changing the ring and pinion.

Anyone had any experience with aftermarket axles in torquey 10 second street cars?
I'm looking at Strange, Moser, Superior etc, just over the counter stuff that is reasonably priced but can take a little pounding at the track from a footbrake car with ET street slicks a few times a season.

If you don't need c clip eliminators, why not just get Moser c clip axles. Freddie can fix ya up, biggearhead.

That is what I was thinking, just some drop in C-clip axles which are stronger than stock.

When I set up my rear end when I first built the car, one of the stock axles had .020 run out on the wheel hub face. I just put it in my lathe and faced it true. But now with all this torque, I'm a little worried it may have been bent at the hub to cause the runout. I dont want to take a chance and snap an axle hub.

If I was going to spend the money, I would get something with c-clip eliminators for sure. There would be nothing worse than an axle snapping and the tire tearing up the quarter panel. I know a couple of years ago, Mark Williams used to sell a good deal on axles with c-clip eliminators in their Masterline brand. If I'm not mistaken this is what (mc71454) uses. That's just my .02.

Matt

I broke an axle in my Chevelle with c-clips once.

I got away with no damage or crash but quess what I bought the next day! Strange 32 spline axles and c-clip eliminators and a new spool.

Peace of mind is worth more than money. IMHO.

Buy the axles and get the Ford bearing ends so you will not have leaking issues. Also the Ford ends are cheaper than c-lip elim.kits. :D

How does the Ford ends install? Do you cut off your old ends and weld on the fords? Do the Ford bearings fit the stock 12 bolt axle shaft, or do you order your axles custom for the Ford bearing size?

I've noticed there appears to be different size C-clip eliminater kits too. Different housing end sizes and stock and aftermarket shaft sizes also.

Yes Matt I do use the MW setup, they don't leak.

If I were to do it again though, I would go with the Ford bearing end setup because they are closer to a stock production car setup.

You must run Non C-clip axles under 11 seconds anyway (NHRA Rules). I think it is just asking for trouble if you don't anyway.

Ask this poor guy:

http://www.boomspeed.com/mc71454/mustang_axle_fall_out.jpg

Tom, that is what I've been always worried about happening. I ran my car last summer about 6 or 8 times with the stock axles. Luckily my future wife(in 2 months) loves Chevelles, so I'm looking into beefing up my 12 bolt. What are these Ford Ends your referring too? Who do I order them from? Thanks for all the help, I didn't get to tune any last year, so hopefully this thing will get going quicker!

Matt

Get the Ford ends from whomever you get the axles from. Yes you do have to cut the axle end flange off and re-weld it. graemlins/beers.gif

If a person was going to go to all that trouble, would it not be just as easy to find a complete 9 inch ford rear and modify it to fit our Chevelles? If you wanted to change ratios, a couple of guys can do a gear change in 20 minutes in a 9 inch if you have the complete carrier ready.

If I had to do it all over again I would run the A1100 kit from Strange engineering.Its fully streetable but has fully hardened pro- race axles and tapered bearings.

www.strangeengineering.net (http://www.strangeengineering.net)

From the strange website..
ABOUT THE A1100 GM kit..
We offer 10 and 12 bolt GM owners the best of both worlds. A thru-hardened pro-race axle that has been redesigned for circle track and hard core street-strip use.This is only possible due to the design of factory 10 and 12 bolt rear ends and extensive testing by strange engineering. Our specially designed c-clip eliminator kit (A1100) employs giant timkin unit bearings which survive severe side loads and constant use (Ball bearings are designed for DRAG RACE ONLY). The axle shaft is tapered to resist bending loads and the axle flange is machined to a generous radius for maximum side load strength.