but thats all that was good about today. I ran in the heads up series at the other track I venture to once in a while,entered the 12.00 index class and ran 12.10,12.14,12.30(spinning)in qualifying....this class was run on a .500 pro tree and I couldnt cut a light to save my soul,my lights were .833,.693,.654, the 12.10 gave me the #1 spot,but in first round of eliminations I cut a .661 light and run 12.12 and get beat by a 12.18....anyone else run a .500 pro tree with any luck? I was definitely humbled today graemlins/boring.gif graemlins/sad.gif

1st qualifier is good. I thought you car was faster or are you going full steam ahead for 12.1 on the 12 index?

I can't get it off the line with these slightly taller and wider slicks,I went from 28x9 Hoosiers to 28x10.5x15 M/T ET drags(using the bigger is better mentality)...I havent 60 footed very well in a long time,and thats running more converter with a th400 also,if the stars arent aligned it blows em off too easy,and I bought these slicks off the floor in a local parts store,no telling how long they'd been there,,,,with the Hoosiers,my 60's were in the high 1.6's consistently,havent had a 1.6 with these M/T's...I am going back to a softer Hoosier compound in the future,but I do have a new 468 project on the engine stand also.

edit:just 3 weeks ago on drag radials I went 12.13,12.11,12.11,12.05 and these are new tires,they get better as they wear down. I might be slightly down on power,been running this one pretty hard for almost 5 years now. I know most of it is in the traction dept. I won't just throw these slicks away,I can't afford the 50 passes and done either,just settle for a little more or less consistently slower :(

Can you deep stage? If not just have to get in as deep as possible and leave at the first glimps of yellow.

No deepstaging allowed in these parts, I havent a clue why not either.

Bob,
Dump the M/T's and go back to your Hoosiers, Hoosiers are a very popular tire in these parts for a good reason :D

Those cars typically wont be able to react quick, especially with the limited traction of small rear tires.

With the small rear tires you cant do things like limit the suspension and run very small front tires.


You might consider going to bigger rear brakes so that you can pick up on the starting line RPM's.


Compaire your M/T to your hoosiers, and you will notice that the M/T has alot LESS sidewall, take a look, you'll know what i mean.

Since they are different tires, they're going to want different air pressure. What pressures did you try?

Brian, I have tried all over the place with these M/T slicks from 13-19 and 19 is where they work best. I believe they are also a harder compound than the Hoosiers also. I ordered the Hoosiers that I had from www.LarryHodge.com (http://www.LarryHodge.com) and I'll be giving him a call soon.

Bob,

I've had very good luck with the M/T - 28x10.5 ET Drag. Even on the worst hooking track I have gone 1.60 with a 4200 stall behind my old 10.31:1 - 383 SBC. By all rights the converter should have been 5300-5500 RPM to work with my big heads and cam etc. Heck on a street night (AKA import night) it went 1.68. That was with no water in the burnout box and NO burnout. Just clean the tires off the best I could and let it rip.

Try to get some video of your car sometime and we can get you fixed up.

The only video I have is from half track and the wrong side at that,can't see much but the front come up and go. I need to get a better photographer :D

i can't understand why a high 11 sec car can't hook on a M/T 28x10.5? i cut mid 1.50's with a 28x9 M/T ET Drag. how much air are you running? i could hook mine with 20psi in them and they were hand me down slicks from a buddy who abused them for several seasons on his nos powered IROC that ran high 10's yanking 2ft wheelies off the line with those tires. :confused: both his and my car are stock style suspensions with aftermarket drag shocks and i had SSM bars with stock uppers. maybe you just got a bad set for some reason?

Thats what I'm wondering,they have probably been rolling around on the parts store floor for too long. I run 19 psi in them,and I've tried everywhere from 13-22psi,they hook best at 19,but still .05 off from the Hoosiers. It even would pull the wheel occasionally with the Hoosiers,not now,no way.

Bob,

I got the video you sent. It is tough to see from that vantage point. I watched it a couple of dozen times. The front seems to rise VERY quickly. It also looks like the rear squats prior to separating. Does the car hook and then spin or just spin initially?

How long of a burnout do you? What is your burnout procedure? I found that I needed a good 5 sec. or so in high gear to produce and smoke and get some heat in the tires. My car worked best with 13 psi with tubes(hot). My car is a little lighter at 3600 lbs so I would figure a little more pressure, say 16 psi maybe. 19 psi sounds awefully high.

You might try tightening up the front shock extension to slow rate of rise. If you have means of stiffening the rear that would be the next thing I would try.

It seems to hook then spin,I just installed new springs in the front and definitely get more lift in the front end. I am not running tubes and I've heard the M/T will not hook right unless you use tubes,they are designed for tubes and the center will wad up without them,i've seen some evidence of this with the pattern left on the street in front of the house. Thats why I run slightly more pressure,hoping to stiffen the center of the tire. I too am still running the front sway bar,I've removed it completely and had no improvement either,so I put it back on. I've been trying to hold off buying tubes,but looks like I might need to, to give the M/T's a fair shake.

well i hope that takes care of it, but just to let you know, i've never run tubes in any M/T tires and have never had a problem like you were mentioning. mid 1.40 60's with no tubes or screws and no probs.

BTW, it sounds like you need some rear shocks. ;) if it hooks then unloads and spins.

Hey Robert - was nice meeting you and your Chevelle Saturday. This is John the guy that was parked next to you.

What are your Front/Rear shocks and settings?

Nice meeting you also John...just saw your post over at the MoKan board. Brian, I have the front shocks set at 60/40 and it has Gabriel Red Rider gas shocks on the rear,they've been there ever since I bought the car. I just figured they were a good stock 50/50 shock :confused: Its real hard to tell what the car is doing from that video,a long way away and the photographer had the shakes. I'll have her stand at the starting line and see if we can get a good video of the launch.

check your mail, i have some questions that my solve some of your problems.

You will probably never get a decent light on a .500 pro tree unless you use a transbrake. Even the 10.90 S/ST stuff that runs on a .5 pro tree has every car there with an auto using a brake. I prefer the JW TH-400 brake, they are very reliable and I have more out there than I can count. I am just finishing up a TH-400 with an ATI internal brake for a local guy and will see how well it works and if it is dependable over the long run as the JW's have been. If you do want to install a brake, there are a myriad of internal mods that need to be done as well. A well-built TH-400 with a brake will live a long time.

Hey Steve,,,it was or supposedly run with No/E rules,no brake allowed. The car that won it was a 67 Camaro...4500 stall and I know the car has a brake,whether he used it or not,someone else would have to tell you that. He was cutting .550-.580 lights...and I wasnt even close with .833,.694,.654,.661, I was leaving as soon as I saw amber,but damn....makes one look very bad,especially when I am fairly respectable on a full tree. My old heavy Chevelle 3500 stall,didnt have a chance against the much lighter Camaro. :(