ok, first off thanks for the help, you guys have helped me out a lot in the past, and sorry for the novel.

Now I have a 498 stroker bbc. right now I'm pulling the motor and am gonna have my heads ported, oval port 049's w/ 2.19/1.88 valves. I plan on putting on a strip dominator single plane or team-g, with a pro-form 850-950 carb. The car will be driven on the street, weekend warrior typr deal and on the strip. I want to make big numbers and a stoker big block w/ a solid roller does the job. It has about 10.5 compression and forged internals. The cam I am looking at is a magnum grind from comp, there book classifies it as a street roller. 308/308
264/264 .652/.652 110-LSA .020/.020 lash. From what I have heard the reason why solid rollers don't live on the street very long is low rpm idle and huge spring pressure. this creates a lot of heat and destroys the roller bearings. The car now has a flat-tappet hydraulic and the springs on it are
Outside-diameter-outer spring:1.460
I.D.O.:1.075
I.D.I.:.803
seat pressure:120#@1.875
Open Pressure:394#@1.175
Rate:391
the springs called for by the roller don't look to be much more than these specs, but I'm new to this much type of detail on performance. it called for two diffrent springs so I will list them together I hope it's not confusing.
Spring-1/Spring-2
1.532/1.540
I.D. .785/.697
Seat pressure 150@1.880/161@1.900
Open Pressure 434@1.230/418@1.350
rate 437/468

After looking at these specs to me they're not too much more radical than the the spring I have on it now. all of them are double springs.
Do any of you think this cam could live on the street. Keep in mind that this car only goes out on the weekends to whip up on the punk imports and some of domestics around.also to menton the occasional 15 mile jaunt to work. I will be taking it to the track also.
Basically I was wanting to know if this idea is feasable w/o having lifter failure after a couple of oil changes. I have read the comp sells a lifter bore grooving tool to help with the oiling duties. I have considered a hydraulic roller but the cost is too much. I can get this K-Kit from comp for $680 vs $800-$900 for a hydraulic roller. By the way Iwork a auto Zone and we get this kit for $100 cheaper than summit/jegs $786. Thanks again graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Rassan

First, do not run a solid roller with those springs unless you want to beat it to death,
Do not be afraid of spring pressure on a roller.
I like a minimum af 225 seat & 550-600 open.

In my opinion the very worst thing you can do to a solid roller is running to little spring pressure.
Use a good lifter.
My favorite is the Isky Red Zones. Not cheap but excellent & they will live & they are rebuildable.
I would suggest you talk with Harold about your cam choice but I would like to see about 8-10 degrees or so less on the intake with your compression. Exhaust is good as GM heads have crappy exhaust ports.
The grooving tool will not help rollers much as the problem is not the cam/roller interface, it is the needles not getting oiled right.
Isky's as well as Crower Sever Dutys with the pin oiling option address this.
If you want a price on Isky's email me.