Greetings,

I have been searching through these forums for a few weeks, lots of good info. After a tough weekend of racing I decided to seek some advice. I help my buddie tune his 65 chevelle bracket car and am posting on his behalf. He is not much into the internet.

His car:
65 Chevelle, 496 BB, edelbrock heads, big roller cam, 12:1 compression, dominator carb, full bracket racing electronics, turbo 400, trans-brake, full roll cage

Front Suspension: we just cut the front stock springs to lower it (needed this to get camber into spec) and put the full global west del-al-lum (?) bushings on it. Took it and had 4 wheel alignment done.

Rear Suspension: 12 bolt, 4:56 gears, strange axles, strange driveshaft, Global West adj upper arms, Wolfe lower adj arms, aluminum bushings, modified the front upper control arm mounts so they are adjustable (to set the Instant Center).

We did not want to back half the car so we can only fit 10 slicks on it. We bracket race it on the throttle stop with an air bag in the right rear to control body twist. On the throttle stop (leave on the stop) the car will hook at a 1.74 sixty foot time and run 10.60's with consistency. We built the car for super street (10.90) so it works very well for this.

With the air bag pumped up hard the car will leave pretty flat (not much body twist) and hook on the TS. But a full hit with the trans brake (no T-stop) the car will spin the tire, run about a 1.47 sixty foot and run 10.30 at 132 mph.

So this weekend we moved the Instant Center up and about 36 inches in front of the rear axle. We took the air bag out and tried it on our 10.60 throttle car setting. Well the Car twisted so hard on the leave I thought we broke the suspension. Then about 40 feet out the car came off the stop and again twisted super hard. And the left rear lifted so high I thought for sure we broke something. I wish I would of video'd it, you wouldn't of believed it. My crazy ass buddie stayed in it and ran a 10.70, but it scared the crap out of him. Car drove badly the whole way down the track.

So we raised the front upper Control Arms up about and inch and tried another couple of passes. The car was much less violent but it still twisted badly and drove down the track badly.

Here is a video of the last couple of passes http://http://home.comcast.net/~olsonshelby/movies/april_test_tune.wmv (http://home.comcast.net/%7Eolsonshelby/movies/april_test_tune.wmv)

So we took the car home, put the airbag back in in and raced it Sunday. With the air bag back in the passenger rear spring, car was a bracket car again on the throttle stop. Lost in the 3rd round to a S/C dragster in S/P.

So I am thinking with some kind of sway bar (wolfe weld in, etc) that this car has the potential to run high nines.

What sway bar works for this kind of body roll on a low 10 second chevelle?

Sanger.

the axle tubes didnt break the factory spot welds on the housing did it? im sure you have the tubes welded. a weld in ajustable sway bar for drag racing would definately help keep the car square. there are numerous companies that make them. chassis works,rick jones etc.

Every weld has be strengthened, the frame has been boxed in. The car actually has a chasssis cert to 8.50. But man does it roll that body without air bags.

I use a Competition Engineering anti-roll bar in my '72 and it has worked well for me so far. The bar itself mounts up in the front of the trunk are and the adjustable end-links go down through the floor to the axle. Only downside is cutting up the floor, but since the car already has a cage in it, you shouldnt have a hard time mounting a bar like that.

I also have the Competition engineering Anti sway bar on the rear of my 1970 chevelle. It will help the body roll greatly.