I was just planning on using my stock driveshaft from my former 307 Malibu which is now about to be a firebreathing 496. I know everyone is going to say replace it but you just can't afford to replace everything on the car. So does anyone....think that maybe I coud just put new U-Joints or anything else to the stock shaft for now until I can afford a good one. I am not going to use slicks on the car until I replace the drive shaft and rear end, but I was going to use Drag radials and probably BFG because they won't bite as hard but will be better than street tires. Any suggestions.

I've run my stock, orignal driveshaft for 20 years and just replaced the u-joints a couple of years ago. If you are concerned about it, throw on a driveline loop. But I've raced mine with slicks and it held it up.

A new aluminum driveshaft with 1350 ujoints is $350.00. I have to switch for my 9" I am installing tomorrow. And I needed to upgrade it anyway, running DOT slicks, a stick, and racing a lot.

I wouldn't bother with the new ujoints, unless there's some problem with them. Save the money for the new driveshaft.

I ran the stock driveshaft with a conversion joint into the 10's on slicks and a transbrake, so I think you'll be fine.

What is a conversion joint? Should I do that or just clean/paint and run it? I will replace the u joints only because I have the driveshaft in the back of my truck right now. Wouldn't be a big deal to replace. Unless it is expensive?

Sounds like cut and weld for proper length to fit the situation

I was going to post a new thread but since you ran your car into the 10's you can probably just answer this. I have the original 10 bolt in it. I was just going to put a mini spool in it and go for it. Figured with only 38,000 easy miles on it it may be okay. You think it would be okay or should I go ahead and get some aftermarket axles. Eventually, I want to replace with an aftermarket 12 bolt. I already have a minispool and 4:11 gears for a 10 bolt though.

Put new u-joints while it is out.Only use Spicer or Neapco...they may be harder to find but worth the effort. They are the only quality aftermarket parts available.Anyone that sells heavy duty truck parts will have both.5-153X or 1-0153 are the part numbers and should be in the $10 range. If no one in your area has them ,PM me and I'll send you a pair. Harold

i just had a complete drive shaft rebuild done. switched from t-10 to t-5 switch yokes shortened shaft and new joints, paint and balance. less than $100 bucks.

Is that the original driveshaft to the car? If it is you don't need a conversion joint for the 10 bolt. I had a 12 bolt in the car, and the joint has 2 different size caps. One side fits the 10 bolt driveshaft the other fits the 12 bolt yoke. The one I had was from Lakewood, but probably made by spicer. With the 10 bolt as long as you take it easy for now you will be fine. I wouldn't plan on going to the track and using slicks though. The stock axles aren't safe without some kind of axle retension ( c-clip eliminator). Once you get the 12 bolt you'll be ready to go, I still have a 12 bolt in mine now.

Good info. I will call around for the u-joints you gave me. I will let you know tomorrow.

Thanks. Oh yeah, you think it will be okay with BFG Drag radials since they don't bite quite as good.