I working on a 70ChevelleConv396 and have rebuilt the entire front end. Actually it was rebuilt while I was doing the body-off restoration 5 years ago. The bottom of the front wheels are pushed outwards (the tops of the wheels are closer to each other than the bottom of the wheels). I think that's negative camber. The end link on the sway bar is perhaps 1/2" from the bottom of the upper control arm bushing/spindle. Seems way too close.

Everything is on the frame now except the convertible top and interior. I don't have any shims in the top control arm bar(??) so it can't be adjusted unless I'm missing something.

HELP..... it seems to be getting worse...

thanks - Duff

I have almost the same problem but only on the driver side. I took it all apart to see what is wrong and this is what i found. I have a bad upper control arm(bent), bad upper ball joint(age), bad lower ball joint(age), and the spindle may be bent(from a accident) and looks like some one slaped it back together and didn't do a good job. So i am doing it all over. Check those areas:thumbsup:

I have almost the same problem but only on the driver side. I took it all apart to see what is wrong and this is what i found. I have a bad upper control arm(bent), bad upper ball joint(age), bad lower ball joint(age), and the spindle may be bent(from a accident) and looks like some one slaped it back together and didn't do a good job. So i am doing it all over. Check those areas:thumbsup:


Me too but on the passenger side. Thanks for the tip!!

To get correct alignment angles chances are you will have to have shims put in the upper control arms. I'm assuming have you the correct upper and lower A arms? Frame of car isn't bent? If/when you have it aligned, it will give you a better clue as to why your tires are cambered too negative.

There was no neg camber problem before I rebuilt it. Shims on the control arms would only increase the neg camber. Could the control arm bushings be too tight or could the sway bar be installed so as to prevent the arms from raising/thus getting more straight up/down? Everything is new/not damaged....

You could just have frame sag. Did you have the frame measured and/or worked on during the restoration? You may need offset cross shafts in the upper control arms to compensate for the excessive camber. A better solution is to have a frame shop take the sag out of the frame, but if the car is all together you may not want to get all the chassis paint banged up.

Is it the same on both sides?

Did the ride height change?

Did you torque A-arm bushings with the weight of the car on the tires?

same on both sides. control arm bushings are not tightened. tonight i took the sway bar off as i thought it was the culprit. i can push down on the front end and the wheels straighten out. I must add that there is no interior, radiator, gas tank, or conv top yet but would that add enough weight to straighten things out? also since i can push down on the front end an align them, maybe the springs (although they are original ones i took out), just aren't the right springs??

The interior, radiator, gas tank and convertible top add up to more weight than you think. I'd wait to get those items in place before you make any rash decisions about something being messed up in the front suspension. If you can push it down to get things looking better, the amount weight provided by the yet to be installed parts will do the same thing. Let's say you weight 200lbs, surely those parts add up to at least that much, right? You can't push it down with any more force than that of your own weight. Oh yes, those parts will make a noticeable difference.

Rich-L79;; that's exactly what I concluded; wait until everything is installed and drive it to see how it settles down. I'm going to end up putting lowering springs in anyways so I'll live with it for now. Thanks for all the input. Sometimes a little common sense is worth more than kneejerk changes..... ;)