With the new 12 bolt rear that is.

Swapped out the open 10 bolt and had a 12 bolt built up with new eaton posi, 3.73 Richmond gears and superior axels.

Broke in the rear as per manufacters instructions.
Just went out to a back road (hard to find in Jersey !!) and let her EAT !! :D

Only thing I noticed was some mild wheel hop. heard this can get real ugly in Chevelles.

I have short 24" tires P225/65 I believe.
I will be getting taller and wider ones soon,

1) because these have dry rot in the side walls and 2) would like to lower the RPM slightly.
Also what size tires would you guys recommened?

Tires, Would this help or hurt wheel hop?

What else could be done to control this?
I heard ladder bars work but the car rides stiff. I don't drive this car far or long so that may not be a concern.
I saw those hitchcock adjustable upper and lower arms but they seem a little steep.$$

Any thoughts?

:D :D :D Sorry still thinking of that 2 legged burnout!!!!!

P.S. how soon does the gear oil need to be changed after break-in, if at all?

" because these have dry rot in the side walls" :eek: :eek:
I dont think I would be doing any burnouts at all. Read the post about 300hp's wreck and decide if you would like the same. Buy some new tires, and then worry about the traction problems :mad:

I know Bill. They are not really "dry rotted" Just small cracks.
Guess I was just looking for an excuse to get new taller tires :rolleyes: ....

Would never subject myself or the old girl to harm.

I'd go with 275/60/15's and SSM lift bars thru Jegs,,,around 180.00 now.

Ya, you have enough gear to run the 275/60s. Wheel hop is often weak parts. Ladders work, but are harsh and tend to twist things up ( bent the frame brace and scored the axle housing). Before you buy new suspension pieces, ensure that the upper pumpkin bushings are good or replace. Boxed lowers, new bushings, good shocks ( KYB's will do), and a sway bar will be of great benefit. Nothing wrong with SSM's if your lowers are not boxed now. They'll bite harder.

The Chevelle owners I meet at local car shows have all been able (not the drag racer types) to stop wheel hop with an aftermarket boxed rear upper/lower set (usually from hotchkis, doesn't mean a different brand is any better or worse). If thats all your worried about, then that should be fine.
If you are gonna start racing, IMHO the more sidewall the better.. 275/60 sounds like you can do some rocking :D and they are stiff enough tires for use on the road in good weather. I can/do drive my ET streets around town when I am waiting to go to the track, but I run them at 28 or 30 psi so they don't build up an ubsurd amount of heat and fail. I left them at 16psi once to get gas, and they were so hot when I got back home, I am surprised they didn't. IMHO ET Streets are an excellent "swap at the track" choice but not really suitable for extended driving. Besides, at a safe PSI they don't work much bettter than a regular tire (IMHO), they wear out quicker, handle like your car is a bathtub, but they do leave one mean and nasty set of dark streaks compared to my BFG KD's...

Matt -- just my observations and opinions.

Hey AClineman, Where did you get your 12 bolt from? I'm lookin for one too to switch out that peg legger. My type of rear ends are hard to find for a 65 chevelle. Also, how are those 3.73's on the freeway? Looking for some gears that can do it all for my 402BB:street,strip,long trips. thanks, Eric

Also, I heard anything turbular is the way to go from Global West for those traction problems

My 489 and 10 bolt posi have no wheel hop at all. I have 255/60 275s next time. I have boxed lowers and uppers that I did my self with poly graphite bushings all around. I was worried about hop but it just bites or smokes them. I also have a rear sway bar and air bags inside the springs. Those may help some.

Please pay attention to what Whittaker just wrote. You can spend too much money on high dollar stuff, or box them yourself ( or have a welder do it), replace bushings and have a good reacting rear suspension. I have homemade lower( from racer1320), adn Hotchkis uppers which were a barter trade. I would NEVER have paid $250+ for them. Would have boxed the originals.

The bushings on the upper pumpkin were fine I checked them before installing the rear.

Someone from TC dropped me an e-mail and was selling a set of edlebrock no hops. He said I would have to remove the upper bushings and drill holes in the webbing of the housing :eek:

Figures, I had the rear sitting on the floor for a week prior to installing it and it would have been MUCH easier doing that stuff there.... Hoping to avoid crawling under there again.

Can the bushing removal and web drilling be done in the car? Or because this is just minimal hop i'm getting, should I try the boxed lowers and take it from there?

Don't plan on racing the car but the occasional "smooth" burn out would be a good thing.
Like I said I only did one burn out so far and just noticed the little bit of hop.

Also how about the oil changing question after break in, does it need to be done? Do they do that from they factory or just let it ride?

chev65elleSS,
I found the rear on this web site in the classified section, the guy was local and I meet him half way. It was an open 12 an I had it converted.

Thanks guys

I think I will go with those 275/60's also

Ok, thanks

Hotchkis lowers (could have boxed my stockers but got a good deal in the H-K's), stock uppers with new rubber bushings (did reinforce the bolt holes though). KYB's and replacement springs. Stock F41 rear sway bar. Running 275-60 BFG's. No wheel hop at all - no traction either, but at least no wheel hop. By the way my car sits low enough the have about 1-1/2" of rear tire tucked up in the fenderwheel.

I added new poly bushings, a rear sway bar and boxed my lower arms myself this winter. Absolutely no wheel hop, just excessive tire smoke. I did all this when I had my rear end out for a posi and gear upgrade. Wasn't very expensive for parts and was easy installation

I just bought some 275-60s and noticed they changed the steering a little and my 2.73s won't burn them very far.

yes, change the fluid.

The housing will begin to "weep" the dirt from its pores after it heats up and hot oil is moving through it.