has anyone used trailing arms with rod ends before? what about these? do u need a panhard par if u use the same kind of uppers also?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=320240929927&rd=1

I run them with spherical bearings at all 8 points on the rear. They work very well, but rod ends don't last more than 10-15,000 miles before they wear out.

No need for a panhard rod... the upper links are triangulated, so they locate the axle laterally.

how does it ride?

Well... my springs rates are nearly triple in front and double in rear from stock, and I have shocks with linear valving, so "rough" would be an understatement. :D

The rear end configuration puts all of the weight on the springs. The only time the arms are loaded is when you're braking, accellerating, or turning. There will be a small increase in road noise and vibration, but the ride won't be any rougher. It actually allow more free movement than any other bushing type so the ride will actually be smoother (but with increased noise and vibration transfered from the axle to frame)

If you get those you will also need spacers in order to mount them.

is it better to center them or can i off set them? spacers are no problem.

The "Buy it Now" price is pretty steep for those. I got a complete set of adjustible uppers and lowers with sperical end joints from UMI for tht price.

yes but umi usually uses dom tubing those are chromemoly with chromemoly rod ends. chris allsin (chassis works) sells those same pair for 469.00 so 350.00 plus shipping seems like a good deal.

I run these... http://www.wolferacecraft.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=28

The ebay ones do have a better rod-end (QA1 teflon are top quality, but still only last ~15K before they wear out)

The problem with those (and the wolfe ones) is that there is no attachment for a sway-bar. UMIs use the same QA1 teflon rod-ends, and allow for a sway-bar.

For that kind of money, I'd go with Currie arms as their Johnny Joints will far outlast a rod end on the street.

if he made those im sure he can add the 2 holes for the sway bar. chris allson ( chassis works they dont have any holes in theres either and those are alot more. but atleast those are chrome moly tubing instead od just cheap dom tubing that umi uses.

dom is just drawn over mandrel tubing. It is available in steel or chromo. Are the Allson bars out of dom mild steel or chromo? The only advantage of chromo over mild is that it is twice as strong meaning you can go half as thick providing a weight savings. dom isusually seemless, but cheaper seemed dom is available. There are also several grades of chromo and there is a large difference, especially between foreign and US steel. It is also a little stiffer but if it isn't welded correctly it will be more brittle around the heat affected zone, were mild steel is more forgiving. I didn't see any welds in the pics. I TIG weld thin wall 4130 chromo a lot and just because it is chromo doesn't mean it is better than mild steel. If chromo is welded wrong it is downright dangerous, I'd ask to see an example of his welding and if he is using 4130 dom seemless tube also what rod ER70s, 309 stainless, or?

yes but umi usually uses dom tubing those are chromemoly with chromemoly rod ends. chris allsin (chassis works) sells those same pair for 469.00 so 350.00 plus shipping seems like a good deal.

We are using 1.500" OD with a .120 wall while those are 1.625" x .083 wall 4130. Since they are using a larger diameter then us the weight difference between the (2) would be so minor.. less then a 1/2 lb. Strength wise.... we have vehicles running single digit 1/4 mile times on these arms.. they are guaranteed not to fail. We also supply our arms with sway bar provisions, we use the QA1 Chrome Moly rod ends and they come powder coated for $259 a set.

Hope that helps!
Ryan

i guess u get what u pay for. u cant complain about a product when u buy junk.

We are offering free shipping for the month of May to all Team Chevelle members. If you are interested or have any questions regarding our products please ask and I will be glad to help.

Thank you!
Ryan

even if you didn't have the mounting provisions for a stock type sway bar, it isn't the end of the world..
a better way to mount a bar is to put the bar on the chassis with links going down to the housing like your front bar is mounted. of course, packaging might be a problem..
a good compromise is to mount it like they did on all the Camaros from 67-'02- with the bar mounted to the housing with links going up to the frame. a couple of years ago, someone came out with a "new design" sway bar that looks like a Camaro bar adapted to a Chevelle..