I was hoping that I wouldnt have to remove the drivers side header,tightened the motor mount bolt,hooked up the oil pressure line,went to mount the headers and they won't line up with the holes...now I have to unhook the oil pressure line,unbolt the motor mount jack up the car and engine,remove oil filter to get the header out and grind the lower flange to clear the head bolts. Oh what fun it is to build a hot rod :D

Bob,
I coulda told you that...LOL

I had to do it to my brand new coated Hedman Elites....

Then when I went to the Merlin heads, the raised exhaust ports made it a non-issue...

But now sprak plug access is a PITA...

don't use the washers on the lower bolts and they may fit. don't need the washers with iron heads

Ditto on the Hedman Elites.

Is this universal with most headers? I am about to install a set of Dynomax headers on my BBC, the standard painted ones. Am i going to have problems with this on my 427 BBC? This is something that his much easier to do now that later since the engine is still out of the car.

Daniel

ARP sells a head bolt kit with short heads on them . They will clear header flanges. I paid $17.00 for a set.I ordered mine directly through ARP. Have fun

Bob, aren't you using stock GM head castings? I'm a little confused as to why the hedders wouldn't fit. Is it that the ARP bolts are taller?

ARP bolts use a washer to get a more accurate torque reading.

This puts the bolt up slightly higher, and the row on the lower outside part of the head will hit the header flanges in some cases.

Mock it up on the engine stand....

Yep 781's,but the ARP bolts sit slightly higher had to clearance the lower corners of the flange so they would sit flush. Passenger side is done since I had that header out anyway,the drivers side is a pain in the arse,since you have to jack the car up higher,remove the center motor mount bolt,remove oil filter and slightly raise the engine.

Why not just remove or take one end of the steering shaft loose?
I just put a new set of Dynomax on my 468 W/ARP and had to take them in and out several times before I got them to fit.
I guess I could of just cut a big chunk out of them , but I wanted to cut as little as possable.
It was alot easier with the stering shaft out of the way.
I think thats the reason on BB cars, the shaft bolt differntly than the SB cars.
Hope this helps?
T.C.

I didnt have to raise the motor after all,just raise the car about 2 feet in the air,,,got the drivers side header clearanced,oil pressure line hooked up,new oil filter on and exhaust hooked back up...fuel pump,carb,dist.,pulleys,alternator,radiator and ready to fire back up in the car,hopefully tomorrow. :D

i had that same issue with my 454 about 7 or 8 years ago. it sucked. hopefully you won't encounter all of the other problems i had though.

I'm hoping since I had the 454 in there already,I'm passed the hard part. I don't know what else would keep me from starting it. Still don't know how the HP950 will do feeding it,and/or the timing might need to be changed. While hooking up the exhaust I was wiping tears off the th350,don't know if it can handle the torque :D

Let us know how it goes when you fire up the motor.

Well, did you get it started? graemlins/beers.gif

Tomorrow Sean, had a meeting at work that went two hours,came home started working on it, I need some new carb gaskets and parts store closed early, install radiator,mount carb and cross fingers :D Happy New Year graemlins/beers.gif

don't blame arp,i used the gm head bolts with iron gm heads and had this problem also.grind a little more than you have to after mocking it up on the engine stand ,because sometimes in the chassis you need xtra room to get 'em into place.

I'm trying regular exhaust manifold gaskets with my headers this time, so far so good.