Guys,

I’m nearing the final stages of completing my new shop and have started looking at goodies to outfit it. One of first things I want to get is a good air compressor. I’ve turned here for some advice.

I wired my garage with three 220 single phase outlets. I plan to run tubing/conduit along 3 of the shop walls and have quick disconnects in about 4-6 locations. I’m thinking I should get a vertical compressor with at least a 5 hp motor and an 80 gallon tank. I’m planning to eventually get a sand blaster, a bead blast cabinet, several impact tools, and I might even try my hand at painting one day. I want to be able to lean on this compressor if I have to without hearing it complain. I’d rather go a little overkill than under kill.

I’m looking to by a Craftsman compressor because I live in a fairly remote area, and Sears is the only retailer within 2 hours of my home. I know some folks here don’t like Sear’s tools but I’m looking at something like this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916781000P?vName=Tools&cName=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&sName=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&filter=Brand%7CCraftsman+Professional

Any thoughts, recommendations or advice are certainly welcomed and very much appreciated.

Thanks for any help!

if your planning on running a sand blaster or cabinet ....... go BIGGER !!

What he said, go bigger if possible. Look at the horsepower. That one is a running 5.4 hp, not a true 5hp. Look at duty cycle, you will probably need one with a 100 % cycle and also get a 2 stage. It has more cfm. What you are planning on doing are air hogs.

Just a comment, I've personnaly seen the "even smaller than your example" Craftsman 2 stage oil less compressor hold up when it should have failed. It was put into emergency use on a building pneumatic system in place of a industrial unit that failed. A larger oil lubed compressor was put it later, It should have lasted but when it bit the dust the Craftsman was put back online. The customer never bought a third compressor, but just kept using the undersized Craftsman.

I kept waiting for it to fail, but my last contact with that facility it was running like the energizer bunny. I gained a lot of respect for this (in my mind) "home owner" brand compressor.

Certainly buy one big enough for your needs, but I wouldn't be afraid to use a Craftsman.

Just my 2 cents.

Yeah, Sears is great since they are 'near' everybody, but I stopped buying anything electrically powered with 'Sears' name on it a long time ago.
You need to just do some searching on the 'internet' for a shop compressor from a mail-order distributor, they can truck it to a terminal for pickup (cheaper) or drop it off at a residence (more expenses). I bought an Ingersol Rand (T-30 series, I think) 80 gallon, 5 HP with a seperate starter. It's a V-twin cylinder, cast-iron oil type, DESIGNED to run all day.
Over 25 years ago, I paid about $1425 for it (with the starter). It was painted silver with blue stripes from the factory, some other 'retail' outlets are carrying the 'sand' colored versions of an IR, but I would not consider one of those.
Yes, if there is a duty cycle mentioned on it, I'd stay away from anything that was less than 100%.
Atlas-Copco is another good brand, Wayne Compressors.

Stay away from the oilless, and go bigger. I borrow a 18hp 60gal gas unit to sandblast and it barely keeps up to my cabinet.

Thanks for your thoughts guys. I did some more looking and found this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916625000P?vName=Tools&cName=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&sName=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&filter=Brand%7CCampbell+Hausfeld

Think this would work better?

By the way.....what is the difference between SCFM and ACFM?

http://www.pyebarker.com/TechTips/techtip2.htm

It looks like it pumps up to 175 lbs, but it says compressor capacity 125lbs.

I know to clean sand from blasting out of a cars floor supports and rocker panels, you need all of 125 lbs pressure, so if it only holds 125 at the tank, you will probably have a 115 or 118 at the air gun.

You wouldn't think 90 to 125 lbs of pressure would make a difference, but for sand removal it does.

Also the extra pressure works good for blowing out the shop.

I would also see if it has a duty cycle, even compressors of this type usually have one, if it does pay attention to it.

If you can put some good air lines and filters in, you will have a really nice set up. I don't know what all you know about airlines, but I most definitely would research it. You will have longer air tool life and good dry air for blasting and painting.

Tp tools has technical tips on how and what to run for air lines, and they understand the program.

I just wish I had that compressor, its going to be a really good one.

How much are they selling for, I didn't see it.

Rob

I don't know if you have seen this, but its a rough idea on how to get rid of the moisture in your lines. http://www.1969supersport.com/draw1.html

Rob

Thanks for the link.

The CH compressor lists for $1,499. The first one I considered was a Sears brand and listed for under $900. I've since gotten a CarQuest catalog and am looking at Champion brand.

The compressor capacity of 125psi on the CH surprised me. I thought it would have been higher.

My current compressor is a small, 6hp 30 gallon Sears (More of a "toy" really) but it rarely gets moisture in the lines. It is so dry here than it really doesn't have a chance to accumulate.

I think my next step will be to visit some automotive shops in the area and see what they have.

The bigger the compressor, the more heat, then when the pipes cool, thats when the water shows up.

I know I'm repeating stuff here, but do plenty of searching on air lines before you buy any piping, especially if your going to sandblast.

Rob

Rob,

I'm still learning, so repeat away. I've found this forum to be a key source of information on a wide variety of topics. I appreciate everyone's willingness to share what they've experienced.

Kevin

How about a rough drawing on how you want to set up these airlines, and let a bunch of us look at it, and don't buy any airline stuff until we have a look.

It might get ugly,:) but we could sort this out for you.

Rob

if your going to do it right ...... your going to need a condenser with fan mounted above the compressor & a water trap under at least the first main leg down from there ... like Rob said you should make up a rough drawing on your layout .... so you get input on improvements ;)

Yeah, I'd be more than happy to diagram what I'm tring to do. Gotta warn you though, I'm no artist! It might take a couple of days to get it drawn and scanned, but I'll post it ASAP.

Thanks guys!

Okay, but remember, don't buy anything, filters, piping, let us set this up for you.

OK, I opted to go with photos instead of drawings. Hopefully they will accurately convey my intentions. Here's what I'm planning to do:


Photo #1:


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/BigsWick/Shop%20II/HPIM0365.jpg


On the right of this 26' wall and close to the corner to the right of the window will be where the compressor will reside. I plan to run tubing from the compressor to the left, pretty close to the door, and along the wall to the right in the next photograph, turning the corner and proceeding down 30 feet. I hope to postion 2 quick disconnects evenly spaced along this wall. An electric heater will go above the compressor near the ceiling. You can see the wiring in the picture.


Photo #2:


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/BigsWick/Shop%20II/HPIM0345.jpg


The wall in the left of this photo is the 30' wall, or the back of the shop. I plan to install 3 quick disconnects along this wall. A wood stove will go in between the 2 windows (not shown). The slab is 6" thick, and eventually, as money allows, I plan to install a 4 post lift in the bay shown in this photograph.


Photo #3:


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/BigsWick/Shop%20II/HPIM0374.jpg


This photo is of the opposing 26' wall. Again, tubing will run down this wall, and I plan to have 2 quick disconnects. In this photo you can see the crated up 2004R and Moser 12 bolt that will go into the '69 once I am able to start working. :hurray:


Photo #4:


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/BigsWick/Shop%20II/HPIM0368.jpg


A shot from the front, taken two weeks ago. Most of the log siding has been put up since then.


This shop represents something I've wanted since I was old enough to appreciate the coolness and value of having a space that was MINE, not my parent's, not my friend's, and not something that was rented. I'm close to finally having a spot where I can drink beer, watch the game, throw darts, blast the music, have friends over, and, oh yeah, work on my rides!

From 1991 until 2002 I was one of those guys we all know who has a car or cars he "will fix up some day." I had the '69 in my signature which I kept, and a '69 SS in pieces that I wound up selling to my best friend. I lived in Wyoming and the cars were in Virginia. I could only keep one. The Malibu meant more to me for a veriety of reasons, so I trailered it 2,300 miles out here through a near tornado in Kansas, 2 snow storms in Colorado and Wyoming, and a night spent a top of Laramie Summit after I jack-knifed on ice and snow- no damage done to the Chevelle.

So, fast-forward 17 years from when I first parked the Chevelles. Several moves, one bout with cancer and a couple of "lost" years after that, and a decision to finally buy a house in 1999, and here I am.

This shop will never likely be anything more than a place for me to do my thing. I'll be 42 this summer and realized it was going to be now or maybe never. 26' x 30' was the biggest I could go without relocating the building into my front yard, so I chose to build it where it is. 40' x 60' would have been nice, but oh well.

I haven't cut any corners on this project. I poured an extra thick slab, installed a "50 year" roof, and have ordered the most heavy-duty doors I could find. I want my air compressor and associated set up to be equal to what I've done so far and what I hope to do in the future.

OK, sorry to ramble on, but maybe this will help put things into perspective. Thanks again for the help, and everyone feel free to let me know what you think.

Kevin

Do you have two entrance doors, and how much pipe are you willing to run, you need a minimum of 50' before you go through the filters, that gives the hot air from the compressor time to cool. Then you can drain the water you just collected through the filters.

In other words you want to go through some filters before you go through any disconnects.

Can you afford three or four f88 type filters and hose reels?

How fat is that wallet?

I know what your thinking, but if you spend the money up front now, it will save you a lot of grief down the road, what we need is a blank check.:yes:

Rob ...... he can always install a electric fan cooled condenser then run down to the water trap , after which the next leg runs the complete length of wall up a grade so the remaining water will drain back to the same water trap ....then through the filter into the supply line for the shop .... pricey but it works well :D

Rob ...... he can always install a electric fan cooled condenser then run down to the water trap , after which the next leg runs the complete length of wall up a grade so the remaining water will drain back to the same water trap ....then through the filter into the supply line for the shop .... pricey but it works well :D

Mark, do you have a picture of the type of condenser, and how much are they?

Rob

Thanks for your thoughts guys. I did some more looking and found this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916625000P?vName=Tools&cName=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&sName=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&filter=Brand%7CCampbell+Hausfeld

Think this would work better?

By the way.....what is the difference between SCFM and ACFM?

What RPM does the motor run on this. I don't know much about air compressors but my dad works on them for a living. I am buying a Quincy through him and he told me the motor runs 1750 RPM and that is what he recommends. I believe it is 17-18 cfm at 175 psi.

Matt, just click on his link, and it will show you the rpm.

Rob

No Picture....... but how about a link ?? :D

WWW.mcmaster.com

then type in the search box =={ Air compressor aftercooler }== it gives a complete lay out & all the different size's & prices

this is the way my compressor at the shop is layed out & an I have no problems with moisture !!

I couldn't find the price. Are you sandblasting and painting with this setup?

I couldn't find the price. Are you sandblasting and painting with this setup?

?? did you scroll to the bottom of the page ??
they run between 300-700 dollars depending on size

Sandblasting & Painting both ..... with the necessary filter & regulators in place

It has no problems supplying the air even to run my portable pressure pot & its an AIR HOG !!

Rob ...... he can always install a electric fan cooled condenser then run down to the water trap , after which the next leg runs the complete length of wall up a grade so the remaining water will drain back to the same water trap ....then through the filter into the supply line for the shop .... pricey but it works well :D

Could you draw a rough sketch of it and give the dimensions in inches, sounds like you have a pretty good setup.

Do you have to do maintenance on these after coolers, or replace anything in them, and the cost of it, and how often if you do.

Also, if your running your compressor like continuous sandblasting, do you ever have condensation in the bottom of your pressurized sandblasting pot, or do you just use a siphon type.

You ever get any moisture out of the air tool your using if you run it continuous.

I'm learning here.:)

OK,

I did some asking around today. The owner of the local CarQuest was really the only guy who seemed to know his ass from 3rd base, and when he wasn't sure he got his Champion rep on the phone who made the following recommendation (dial-up users beware):

http://carquest.v1.myvirtualpaper.com/tools_equipment_us/2008040801/en/

Page 14, model CAC VR7F-8-1-ADV, $2,685 delivered.

It has a duty cycle of 40 min/hr, a 5 year warranty on the motor, and a 5 year pro-rated warranty on the pump. The CarQuest owner said he'd stand behind the compressor as long as he owned the store.

He also told me about an outfit in Idaho that manufactures custom compressors, per your specifications. He called them after he got off the phone with the Champion guy, gave them the specs, and they are getting an estimate together.

I went to NAPA too, but the guys there didn't do much more than smile and hand me a catalog. I still might pay Sears a vists also just to see what they have to say.

This is getting expensive.....:D

Will keep you guys posted.

Kevin

Kevin, check out Gregg's (riskyvt) shop build on garagejournal.com for a sweet setup http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11929. Shoot to page 11 and scroll down through a bunch of pictures until you get to the compressor and lines. I drool every time I take a look! Great guy that does a ton of research before he jumps into something.:thumbsup:Wish I could be more like him!:yes:

Do you have two entrance doors, and how much pipe are you willing to run, you need a minimum of 50' before you go through the filters, that gives the hot air from the compressor time to cool. Then you can drain the water you just collected through the filters.

In other words you want to go through some filters before you go through any disconnects.

Can you afford three or four f88 type filters and hose reels?

How fat is that wallet?

I know what your thinking, but if you spend the money up front now, it will save you a lot of grief down the road, what we need is a blank check.:yes:

You never answered my question on the two entry doors (little doors).:)

That VR7F-8-1 looks like a really nice unit, make sure you have the right wiring and electrical service to run it.

Dan ...... that link to garagejournal.com has an VERY High dollar water Dryer hooked up :eek:
yes a Fantastic system but just the Dryer is MORE then most people spend on complete systems :yes:

Ahhhhh its only money & its fun to spend other peoples :D ... HEY Kevin !! ;)

You never answered my question on the two entry doors (little doors).:)

Woops. Sorry!

Yes, 1 entry door only, the one seen in the first photo I posted.

Gonna go back to CarQuest this afternoon and talk some shop with the dude.

I'll be back on this evening, but I think a quincy or eaton in the $1500 or $1600 range is all you need, got into several long discussions on a couple different forums about compressors, so if you have time take a good look at them, i believe there low rpm and all cast iron pumps, pretty good units.

I still have to figure out your building, but I think with a lot of pipe and 3 or four filters, you won't need an air dryer, then you also won't have to buy anything for it or do maintenance on it.

I went through 1100 lbs of sand on my chevelle, and never had a moisture problem with the pressurized tank blaster.

Rob

You did look at this didn't you:) http://www.1969supersport.com/draw1.html

Need to set it up something like this, but adjusted for your garage.

Dan ...... that link to garagejournal.com has an VERY High dollar water Dryer hooked up :eek:
yes a Fantastic system but just the Dryer is MORE then most people spend on complete systems :yes:

Ahhhhh its only money & its fun to spend other peoples :D ... HEY Kevin !! ;)


Yes sir, love to spend the big bucks if someone else is writing the checks! :disco:

Yes sir, love to spend the big bucks if someone else is writing the checks! :disco:

Not on this one, if he's patient and pays attention, he can get a top notch set up. But nobody ever listens to me, including my wife, and he probably won't either.:)

He can take this $1800 savings, sans the aircooler and overkill compressor, and buy himself a good SAS Supplied Air Outfit, for around $1000, and he'll have $800 left for drinkin money. (maybe).:)

I'm still confused on where your going to run your pipe, something doesn't look right, so I brought the bride in here ( the big brain ) and shes not sure what your trying to do either, maybe a hand sketch of all of the inside of your garage.

Are you going towards the entrance door, then back to the compressor and then down the 30' wall.

If you could put 75' to 100' feet of 3/4'' black pipe, then put some sharpe type filters in, then take off from that, you will get rid of all the moisture.
If you do a hand drawing show the amount of feet up above the windows and the entrance door.

Rob ...... I'm not sure what direction hes going to be able to run that much black pipe ...

he's talking about putting an electric heater in one corner ..... an a wood stove in the middle of anther wall :eek:

an we both know ..... you don't put cold pipe next to a heat source !! Unless he puts it all the way above the windows :confused:

Rob ...... I'm not sure what direction hes going to be able to run that much black pipe ...

he's talking about putting an electric heater in one corner ..... an a wood stove in the middle of anther wall :eek:

an we both know ..... you don't put cold pipe next to a heat source !! Unless he puts it all the way above the windows :confused:

Mark, I'm pretty sure he would go above the windows. If you look at his first picture and the drywall, he must have 12' ceilings, most service door are about 6' 8'' tall, so he has quite a bit of room to run pipe in the upper area.

With the pipe fairly close to the wall and the heater hanging out from the wall, that shouldn't be a problem.

Rob

You did look at this didn't you:) http://www.1969supersport.com/draw1.html

Yup, I did. Mark was also kind enough to e-mail me his diagram. Thanks again. Now I have a better understanding as to what you were talking about with angling the pipes so any moisture will drain back down hill, and the use of a water filter and a trap. In fact, I'll probably copy it in some capacity and adapt it for my own purposes.

I'm still confused on where your going to run your pipe, something doesn't look right, so I brought the bride in here ( the big brain ) and shes not sure what your trying to do either, maybe a hand sketch of all of the inside of your garage. Are you going towards the entrance door, then back to the compressor and then down the 30' wall.

No. I'm going to vee or tee my connection at the compressor and run the line in either direction, one down the 26' wall with the entrance door, and one in the opposite direction down the 30' wall where it will again turn 90 degrees and run down the opposite 26' wall.

If you could put 75' to 100' feet of 3/4'' black pipe, then put some sharpe type filters in, then take off from that, you will get rid of all the moisture. If you do a hand drawing show the amount of feet up above the windows and the entrance door.

75' to 100' of pipe will probably be too much. In fact, I won't have but an absolute total of 82' of wall space (26+30+26) and I'm not planning on using all of that.

Rob ...... I'm not sure what direction hes going to be able to run that much black pipe ...

he's talking about putting an electric heater in one corner ..... an a wood stove in the middle of anther wall :eek:

an we both know ..... you don't put cold pipe next to a heat source !! Unless he puts it all the way above the windows :confused:

That might be an option I'll have to explore. The electric heater will sit high and far enough away from the compressor that it shouldn't present a problem. The wood stove is another matter. It will sit between the two windows along the 30' wall. My best option so far seems to be to run the pipe horizontally down the wall, turn 90 degreees and go vertically at the first window and proceed until I reach the top of the window, turn 90 degrees horizontally and proceed across the top of window and across the wall above the stove to the end of the second window, then drop back down the wall and continue the line horizontally.

Another option would be to run a line from the compressor down the 26' wall with the entry door, turn 90 degrees to the left and go up and over both garage doors, then come back down, across the opposite 26' wall and turn left again, going down the 30' wall and stopping the line a safe distance from the wood stove.

My other option would be to use the electric heat when I plan on running the compressor. :D

I went back to CarQuest today and shot the breeze with the owner. He got a return call from the compressor builders in Idaho. Their quote was slightly less than the Champion, but he recommended going with the Champion to get the backing of a national brand supplied by a large chain.

Still thinking this through.....

Kevin

You want to put your filters at the end of your runs, you could go 25' one way, then double back 25' = 50'.

Then go 29' and double back 29' = 58'.

Thats a 108', then go through three filters right in a row.

108' will cool that hot air coming out of your compressors, and the three filter setup will catch what water is left.

Your filters can be down lower, then run some more pipe lower then the ones for cooling the air.

Then I would run a combination filter regulator on a couple of take offs, just before it hits the air hose.

If you want me to give you a rough sketch I will need the between the windows and doors and floor and ceiling.

So you now have 108' plus about 6' down to the filters, and another 3' to the filters.

Then run about 20' for a take off or hose reel or whatever, then about 25' down the other wall, same thing, and that should do it.

So about 160' feet of pipe, three filters, and two filter regulators, if you want a take off right next to the compressor, change that one filter to a filter regulator.

This is a rough idea, but its what you need to do, otherwise, you'll suffer the moisture in the sandblaster pot, and a couple of applications of that, well we don't need to go into it, anyway.

You set up your airlines for sandblasting, and if you don't get any moisture in the sandblaster pot, you have a perfect airline setup.

Then you will never have to worry about ruining a few hundred dollars worth of paint, plus you will have longer air tool life.

You have enough room to run a lot of pipe. You can put shelving right over it, it shows it in my paint room section on my web site.

Rob

In these pictures you will see two filters and a filter regulator right in a row, this is at the end of about 70' of 3/4'' black pipe, then I run about another 60' into a filter regulator, then a rubber hose connection on that for painting and sandblasting.

Back to the two filters and the fiilter regulator, I run about 75' to a hose reel and into a bead blaster, my air is dry enough I didn't put a filter regulator like I did in the paint room.

http://www.1969supersport.com/grg108.jpg


http://www.1969supersport.com/grg109.jpg

http://www.1969supersport.com/grg110.jpg

Heres what I'm talking about going down a wall and doubling back, theres a drain at the end.

http://www.1969supersport.com/grg111.jpg

http://www.1969supersport.com/grg112.jpg
You need at least 50 feet of 3/4 pipe to get rid of condensation, you'l notice it's all sloping downhill.
http://www.1969supersport.com/grg113.jpg

Rob....... after seeing how you shoehorned in all that pipe ......
I bet your drooling when you look at all the empty wall that Kevin has to use :thumbsup:

Rob....... after seeing how you shoehorned in all that pipe ......
I bet your drooling when you look at all the empty wall that Kevin has to use :thumbsup:

You hit the nail on the head there Mark.

I would plaster those walls with solid pipe, or better yet, build the garage out of pipe.:D

All that shoehorning I did, that comes from a lack of really knowing what your doing, I kept adding on and changing.

Then I had a brain flash, maybe I should do a little research after the fact:clonk::clonk:

Rob,

Awesome pictures. Absolutely fantastic. Thanks for posting them. It looks like you have a very functional system.

I thought about this a lot over night and have decided to rule out NAPA and the shop in Idaho. I made a trip to Sears after work today and talked to them about the second compressor I was considering.

The guys at Sears weren't very clued in to air compressors, but their "tool guy" worked his butt off trying to answer all of my questions, and he searched the Internet for specifics and details that their literature didn't provide. After hearing what he had to say I went home and decided to do a side by side comparrison of the two compressors I am considering. here's what I came up with:


Champion:
http://carquest.v1.myvirtualpaper.com/tools_equipment_us/2008040801/en/

Two Stage
Duty Cycle: 40min/hr
Running HP: 7.5
After cooler: Yes
Tank: 80 Gal.
Volts/Ph: 230/Sin
CFM: 23.5@175psi
Max psi: 175
Wire size: 6 AWG
50 amp breaker
Full load: 31 amp
Warranty: 5 yrs, pro rated
Cost: $2,695
Delivery: free

Campbell Hausfeld:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916625000P?vName=Tools&cName=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&sName=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&filter=Brand%7CCampbell+Hausfeld

Two Stage
Duty Cycle: 100%
Running HP: 7.5
After cooler: Yes
Tank: 80 Gal
Volts/Ph: 230/Sin
CFM (delivery): 25.1@175psi
Max psi: 175
Wire size: 8 AWG
50 amp breaker
Full load: ?
Warranty: 3 yrs
Cost: $1,499
Delivery: $75

I did the best I could to come up with an accurate comparrison between the two compressors, but I got stymied in a couple of spots.

1) the duty cycle comparrisons are different
2) cfm of air is rated in differnet ways
3) I could not find info on the full load (amps) for the Campbell Hausfeld

Other considerations:

1) The Champion has a better warranty
2) the Champion costs over $1,000 more, money I could spend elsewhere
3) $1,000 would go a long way towards getting a nice new tool chest

I asked myself some hard questions last night. I won't be doing lots of sand blasting, probably only about once or twice a month. I hope to do a Chevelle frame one day, but it will probably be the only time I do something that involved. A blasting cabinet will see more use, but even that will be used sparingly. Painting might come into play at some point, but I'm not opening a body shop. In short, most of what I will use the system for will be for running air tools.

So, here I am. I believe the Champion set up to be superior, but I'm unsure if the improved capability is worth spending the extra money. The Campbell Hausfeld has comparable performance to the Champion, but I get the gut feeling that it isn't as robust, and I don't want to make the mistake of buying an inferrior system that will bite me in the butt down the road.

I hope to make a decision this weekend.

Let me know what you guys think.

Kevin

Can't get all the specs on the champion, I'm looking at google right now.

Without complete information, the ch has a cast iron sleeve, where I would bet the champion is all cast iron.

The ch is a low rpm motor which is a good thing. I'm not sure how practical it is to rebuild the ch, but maybe it could.

Both put out all the air you will need.

I run a 100 lb eastwood pressurized sandblast pot, and after 20 to 25 minutes of blasting with sand its empty, so you will have down time reloading, which takes care of a 50% duty cycle, 1/2 run 1/2 shut down, some of your air tools might make the ch run continously, so just stop once in a while, duty cycle or not, give it a rest.

You will be running a compressor pretty much like I do, hit and miss, neither one of us are in business.

The other thing to look at is quality, you might not get any better quality with the $2695.00 unit.

I had a cheaper yard man riding lawn tractor, used it about ten years, thought it was time to get something better, so I bought about the same size in a John Deere, after 8 years its blowing oil and cost twice what the yardman did.

I would buy the lesser priced unit, you can run it for a few or several years, and if you have a problem, you can buy another new one, and its still about the same amount of money.

I run these $750.00 compressors, the first one lasted ten years, the second one two years, I'm going on three years with this one, the ch for $1500 is twice the compressor I have as far as quality.

Rob

Kevin is there any reason you haven't compared the Curtis compressor ?? I see one major difference .....
the Curtis has an after cooler :yes: # Cur7et2vt8up
the CH & Champion does not an :( although if you set up you lines correctly like Robs it shouldn't be a major consideration..
I look at pump construction .... I.E. is it fully cast iron ? and is it rebuild able ?
either one should fill your requirements quite well for many years to come :)
It's executive decision time ;) after all it is your money :thumbsup:

Mark,

I tried looking up the part number you provided on the Curtis Web site, but they list no such animal. Can you provide a link?

All those spec's are nice, and are written for comparison's sake...but here's another wrench to throw into the works... Quality of build/components!

Compressor: Iron cylinders, Alum w/ sleeves, or Aluminum??
Connecting rods: True bearing inserts, or just aluminum on steel?
Pistons: How many rings? Press-fit or bushed?
Crank Bearings: Roller, Inserts, or none?
Oiling: Splash, Slinger, or Pump/pressurized?
Operating RPM: Does the compressor spin at 1000, 1250, 1500, 2000+ RPM to get it's rated output. (lower is better & quieter BTW)

Take some time and look around on http://castair.net/ .... even if you don't buy from them the website is a real education on buying a quality air compressor & system!

I've got one of their 6hp/80gal/V-twin units. 125psi @ 15cfm all day long, and you can hold a normal volume conversation standing next to it!

Kevin, I didn't see anyone mention that after you run all your pipe, please run a couple ground wires to the piping. With a large volume of air going through the pipes, an electrical static charge can build up. Also, don't even think about using any plastic pipe for your system. Plastic can build up a terrific charge and knock you on your butt when you touch the pipe. There have been instances of actual explosions when somebody used PVC pipe on a dust collection system, with sawdust going through the pipe. Good luck with the system.

Mark,

I tried looking up the part number you provided on the Curtis Web site, but they list no such animal. Can you provide a link?

WOW I thought that one would be easy ....... its on the same CarQuest page as the Champion :D

Doh!!!!

Kevin ..... If I'm reading Curtis site right its model 755VT8

ok now that I'm home playing around...... on Curtis site its the CA series under the ultra pak compressors

thats the one in the Car Quest catalog :)

its all cast Iron & complete re-build able Roller bearings construction through out , low rpm ,after cooler ,

It maybe more compressor then you need ....... :D

I've had good experience with Curtis pumps thats the reason I thought you should at least look ;)

I went to the Curtis Web site and found very little information on specific models. The data given seemed to be very general, applicable to most of their compressors. A model 755VT8 didn't come up.

All those spec's are nice, and are written for comparison's sake...but here's another wrench to throw into the works... Quality of build/components!

Compressor: Iron cylinders, Alum w/ sleeves, or Aluminum??
Connecting rods: True bearing inserts, or just aluminum on steel?
Pistons: How many rings? Press-fit or bushed?
Crank Bearings: Roller, Inserts, or none?
Oiling: Splash, Slinger, or Pump/pressurized?
Operating RPM: Does the compressor spin at 1000, 1250, 1500, 2000+ RPM to get it's rated output. (lower is better & quieter BTW)

Take some time and look around on http://castair.net/ .... even if you don't buy from them the website is a real education on buying a quality air compressor & system!

I've got one of their 6hp/80gal/V-twin units. 125psi @ 15cfm all day long, and you can hold a normal volume conversation standing next to it!

Thanks for posing these questions. It caused me to do some more research. The Champion has the following:

- iron engine, not sleeved aluminum
- the picture on the Web site shows what looks like 2 compression rings
- I'd bet the pistons are pressed, not sure
- oversized (?) crankshaft bearings- so yes, bearings
- splash lubrication- I've read this is best
- 990 rpm- probably not too noisy?

After researching this for a couple of weeks I'd have to say that I'm disappointed by the lack of available detailed information I was able to find in addition to the standard specifications provided by the different manufacturers in both print and Internet formats. Some very insightful observations and concerns were brought up by many of the folks who took the time to participate in this thread, but I wasn't able to answer all of their questions to my satisfaction. I can say with certainty that I got the most insight from the Champion rep via the conversations I had with him and the owner of the local CarQuest. Kind of funny though, because I never thought I'd consider buying an air compressor from an auto parts store. Nevertheless, after kicking this around for as long as I have, and based upon the great advice I've gotten from the members of this forum, I've chosen to go with the Champion VR7F-8. I'll order it on Monday.

Thanks guys for all of your help and insight. I'm sure I'll have additional questions and find myself in need of advice once I take delivery of the compressor and start putting my system together. Hopefully that won't be too far down the road.

Until then! :beers:

Kevin

Your welcome Kevin.

Update:

The compressor was delivered yesterday. It took a forklift and 3 guys to get it into the back of a CarQuest S-10 delivery truck. I know that truck was hating life. We used a backhoe to unload it and four guys to haul it into position. Wow. I knew it would be big, but wow.

heh, heh, heh.....:D

Kevin........ :thumbsup: glade every thing arrived & everyone survived the loading & unloading ;) somehow they always seem bigger in person :D

Update:

A man and his air compressor. Its a beautiful thing! (Check out the T-shirt logo!)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/BigsWick/Shop%20II/HPIM0430.jpg

New shop almost finished. The doors are going on as I type this:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/BigsWick/Shop%20II/HPIM0421.jpg

I ordered a blasting cabinet this morning:

http://www.tptools.com/p/882,53_976-Pro-Detailer-XH-Abrasive-Blast-Cabinet.html

I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I'm ready to get to work!