: What to use for sealing exhaust joints
gibbons Apr 13th, 08, 10:40 PM Before some one says just weld it, let me say that can't be done. The parts have to slip fit to get them into the twisty position, and they are already ceramic coated.
I have an American Thunder pipe set on my car. At the front of it, there are two slip joints that I secure with stainless band clamps. They look better than pipe clamps, but they leak as bad. Is there anything I can use to smear around the joint and then put the clamp over over top to hide it? Didn't I see some 700 degree silicon or something like that? The joints are 24" past the header collector flange, so they don't get that red hot.
What do you think?
novaderrik Apr 13th, 08, 11:04 PM weld it...
if done properly, the heat will be contained to within 1/2" or so of the joint. if it makes you feel better,get some aluminum colored paint and spray the weld to match the color of the coating.
and, if i may ask, why did you get the pipes coated? the Flowmaster kit on my Nova looked brand new after 5 years and over 20,000 miles in all weather conditions short of a full on blizzard- the part number stickers were still on most of the pipes and readable..
Wooderson Apr 13th, 08, 11:08 PM I use cheap RTV sealant. It makes a difference when you want to take them apart, as long as there is a little clearance for the sealant.
ToyzRMe Apr 13th, 08, 11:24 PM We use the stainless band clamps to seal slip joints on the 5" exhaust pipes on my road tractors.
What I use is orange Hi-Temp silicone. Slip the pipes together, then lay the band clamp down and make a large series of "S"-shaped squiggles from one end to the other on the side that faces the pipe. Fasten the clamp over the joint, and you're good to go.:thumbsup:
It won't leak, and I know it'll stand pyrometer temps after the turbo of more than 1000°. :yes: On long grades with big loads and max power, the pyro will normally show 900°-950° or more for many minutes as we climb.
Randy
gibbons Apr 14th, 08, 10:14 AM I can't weld it, because all the twisty turns the slip joint provides would make it impossible to remove without a torch or sawzall....
Thanks for the confirmation on high temp silicon. I think I may do the pipe-to-muffler joints while I am at it.
Responding to an earlier question, I got the pipes coated cuz it looks cool :yes: My car sits up high on a lift now, and it matters. I never thought I would be keeping the underside of a car clean, too :noway:
Wally Apr 14th, 08, 11:08 AM I can't weld it, because all the twisty turns the slip joint provides would make it impossible to remove without a torch or sawzall....
Thanks for the confirmation on high temp silicon. I think I may do the pipe-to-muffler joints while I am at it.
Responding to an earlier question, I got the pipes coated cuz it looks cool :yes: My car sits up high on a lift now, and it matters. I never thought I would be keeping the underside of a car clean, too :noway:
http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/ultra-copper-high-temp-rtv-silicone-gasket-p-65513.html?ref=42
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