Well, I didn't have much time tonight, so I only got the passenger side bank done. OH MY LORD!!! The valvetrain on that side is SO much quieter and more "consistent" sounding.

This is in my 70 with a 355cid. The valvetrain is a hyd. roller with full aluminum roller rockers. I took what time I had....to pull all the rockers and pushrods out on that side and go over them visually. No bent pushrods and the Scorpion roller rockers are in fine condition. This is with 5-6 years, 10K street miles and about 75 dragstrip passes on it. While that doesn't sound like much, if you knew some of the things that this motor has been thru....it's been a long, hard haul. graemlins/sad.gif

To back up a bit: I built the motor back in 1998 (first-timer) and have had nothing but problems. As time has gone by, I've been able to solve little problems here and there and the engine has kept chuggin away. However, from the initial setting of the valves (using the stock cam GM method), to a check on them from time to time, they've always been....well....LOUD....and not very "consistent" sounding. Everybody told me that is how rollers sound. Balderdash. But I suffered on with it till I came up on the EO/IC method on here recently. When I heard that it was the preferred method for engines with long duration cams, I figured it would be the ticket.

Anywho, when I went to set them today, I could aaaaaalmost loosen the polylocks by hand :eek: . I had to use NO effort with a wrench to break them loose. redface.gif

I also had been paranoid about whether my valvetrain geometry was spot-on, and I could tell by the little tell-tale wear across the middle of the valve that it should be right on.

With just that one side set, I re-tuned the air/fuel mixture with a vacuum guage and I was able to increase it from about 12" up to almost 14" (in Park on my auto tranny..idling at 1000rpms). Not shabby for a cam with 79* of overlap! Needless to say, I CAN'T WAIT to run the valves on the other side to get it all lined out.

Lunati hyd. roller:

232/242 @ .050
290/300 adv. dur.
.510/.525 lift
108 LSA on 104 ICL with 79* of overlap

Just want to give a big thanks out to this site for the wealth of info that it offers! graemlins/hurray.gif graemlins/beers.gif

graemlins/thumbsup.gif :cool:

Get a remote starter for $10 or $15 unplug the coil and it will even be faster! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

JRS, yes I'm lookin into buying a remote starter. If this keeps up, I may move onto a solid for my next project (nothing soon, tho), just so I can learn the fine art of valve lash. :cool:

This should help me widen the powerband out, I think?

Originally posted by JRS70LS5:
Get a remote starter for $10 or $15 unplug the coil and it will even be faster! graemlins/thumbsup.gif I paid about $3 for my remote starter button. It's the best valve adjusting tool ever for the EO/IC method. I don't worry about the sequence, just do each cylinder one at a time. Bump it until the exhaust valve starts opening and adjust the intake. Bump it until the intake is almost closed, then adjust the exhaust. Easiest thing ever!

It makes even the "high maintenance" of a solid cam seem like fun. :D

I use the same valve adjustment method, but have been turning the engine over by hand. Does the remote starter method tear up you starter at all? It just seems like it would be hard on it...

Just follow the fireing order and you`ll only rotate the motor 2 times one for intake one for exh.

The starter takes less of a beating graemlins/clonk.gif if you pull the sp plugs before adjusting. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I have my wife bump the engine over. I do not worry about EO/IC. I watch each rocker until it is all the way down then a extra bump to make sure it is on the base. I have been doing this for quite awhile. I run a solid cam. The complete job takes 15 minutes. Works better and faster than anything I have tried. I have tried them all. You can also use daughters, sons, etc.

To make the job go even quicker, install a starter button on the firewall near the distributor. Works for me.

Valve train problems or not, you're still kicking my a*# on the 1/8mile. What are the specs on your motor? I'm running a mesealy 8.80@79mph, and that's with a 388ci!!! graemlins/clonk.gif ...I know my small cam and the lil bugs that I got to work out have a lot to do with it.

LXS, do NOT get discouraged. I was running those times 2 years ago.

355cid with 10.1:1 SCR and 3540lbs. w/driver

Holley 750cfm 3310 carb (worked over by me)
Edelbrock Performer intake (I swapped to the Performer RPM Air-Gap over the winter, so results of that change should come next month)

Canfield aluminum heads 195cc with 2.055/1.600 valves. They are box-stock, EXCEPT, the combustion chambers have been CNC'ed.

The cam and rocker specs are in my initial post.

Stock crank and rods, but ARP bolts are throughout most of the engine.

Hooker Super Comp. 1 3/4" headers going to 3" exhaust and 1-chamber Flows dupming in front of rear axle.

10" PTC converter that flashes to about 3500
12-bolt rear with 3.91 Posi
M/T Sportsman Pro's 28x10.5 full tread DOT's

stock front suspension with sway bar removed and the "shock nut" trick (use search function on that) I'm going to upgrade to PST Polygraphite bushings and components in a week or 2.

Stock rear suspension with CE 3-way adjustable shocks. I've recently added airbags, tho.

Did I forget anything? OH YEAH....seat time at the track is the KEY! I still got a LONG way to go....... smile.gif

Well, track time is right, havin't got much of that yet. One of these days I'll be up there graemlins/thumbsup.gif