Hi guys. I just got my 427 in this weekend (pics soon) The guy that I got it from had the shortblock completely built about 2 months ago. It has just sat in his garage since then before I picked it up. It appears that there is some very light surface oxidation on some of the crank counter-weights and the cam assembly lube looks to be slightly chunky but the rest of the motor (specially the cylinder walls)looks beautiful.I immediately gave all the block surfaces and counter weights a light coat of wd40 Should I disassemble the shortblock and have everything cleaned or do you think I could get away with just pulling out the cam and re-lubing it? There appears to be no dirt or chunks or anything foriegn in the block....you guys think I'm okay? Thanks.

Since you have seen rust (even though it's slight) I would do it for piece of mind. It's better to go thru a few moments of extra work then to find out there are other problems that you didn't see.

todd

I would just relube the cam,and pick up a bottle of GM EOS

Wow!!! That was fast. I'm majorly paranoid when it comes to engines so I know i'm erroring on the side of caution but like I said it's just light surface oxidation...isn't really rust yet, just discoloration. Will rust still form in a running engine? What is EOS??

E.ngine O.il Supplement available for about $5 frpm your local GM dealer

Depends if you think they torqued the mains and rods correctly? Are they ARP? If so did they use ARP moly lube, stretch gauge, etc. Are the bearing clearances and piston to wall documented for you?

Thanks...I'll post pics up in a little bit to show you guys just to be certain. Thanks

zefhix, what will kill the thing is improper assembly ( as Doug points out), and dirt. If the motor was bagged and kept sterile. No problemo. If not, could be problemo. The surface rust you see would be of no concern to me at all. " Apply liberally", defintely coat the topside with a can of EOS after recoating with good moly assemly lube. ASSUMING they coated the bearings with oil/lube, there shouldn't be issues with bearings surfaces. Whether the assembly was kept sterile is #1.

Now whether you want to pull a rod cap and check a clearance is a completely separate issue.

My used 427 mill was running strong when I got it from a friend, but I was tempted to pull #1 rod cap, and #1 main cap to see and Plastiguage it. I did not. In this case, unless you have a shop receipt, I would urge you to consider it.

Feeling lucky? ;)

I have the ability to call the original assembler of the BB in Salt Lake City, Ut.
Here's a copy of the email I was forwarded regarding the motor:


"block no. 017488 more nos. on block 8 or 3 then999289 then P sideways.I think it stand for 454 1972 to 1979.

crank no. 3904815NF I think it stand for 396/402 cast nodular iron.1965 to 1969. The machine shop owner told me it’s the good crank and rods, but I don’t know what he meant, its not a "forged crank."

Main caps show 382 on them?

Pistons cant find box for nos. but Keith Black silv-o-lite performance pistons.

another box shows phb454-32 I set? don't know what box that’s for.

Clevite 77 bearings,no. ms-829 p-30.

Melling high volume oil pump with pick-up

no.m-77.Lifters,EPW which I think stands for Engine Performance Warehouse? no. HA817R.

Crane Commander cam, no. 134561 CCH 296-2/2997E

Sealed Power rings, no. E-233K 60.

Elgin High Perf. roller timing set, no. SS 2110.

Pistons are a middle dome type, not the inverted dish type.

The block has been bored 60 over, and the machine shop guy told me that it could go over 100 ? He said 60 over is nothing on the older style blocks. You need to check all this on your end, I don’t know, but I trust the machine shop guy as a lot of people I know says he is the best, and honest. Let me know if you get this please,"

What do you think? Guess I'll be giving the shop a call to be sure. I don't feel that lucky even though things appear to look good...

Well, here are the pics. What do you guys think?
http://www.clubcamaro.com/images/chevelle/images/DSC03582.jpg
http://www.clubcamaro.com/images/chevelle/images/DSC03578.jpg
http://www.clubcamaro.com/images/chevelle/images/DSC03583.jpg
http://www.clubcamaro.com/images/chevelle/images/DSC03584.jpg

As always, thank you for your help graemlins/beers.gif

I think that I would check the bolts in the timing chain gear on the cam :eek: . The cylinder bores look fine, that crank does look like a little more than surface oxidation but that may be the camera shot. I think that I would go over that shortblock real careful checking everything. You might even want to put a stock oil pump and pickup in it.

The cam was just slipped in for storage. The dots on the timing chain don't even line up. I was going to pull and relube anyway. I have the Melling oil pump and pickup. Why stock?? So do I need to remove the rust or after I check everything (and it's okay) can I just assemble the block and prime it with oil and not worry about it?? How would I remove it anyway? Also, I said surface oxidation because you can't actually feel it when you run your hand against it, you can just see it. Weird, huh?

IMHO, I figure the crank rust is just hand sweat/oil stuff that does that to CLEAN metal over time when you handle things regardless unless you oil everything up real good to keep the moisture in the air for getting to it..

I handled my new rotors with clean rags until they started rusting over time anyway...

pdq67

So it won't hurt the engine once asembled and running? I just want to make sure the rust won't continue or spread. :cool:
So far the engine is specing out to be well done.
Thnaks.

Don't start scubbing anything! More harm than good. Stock vloume pump is more than adequate for it. HV just adds more load. OK to use though. Be sure to at least rough degree the cam.

Will do....thanks you guys. :cool: