I've finished the new qtrs (weld, rage, sand, DP40), new door skins have been put on the shells but not welded (have been DP40'd) and new GM fenders installed and DP40'd.

Question???
- Should the doors be aligned with the qtrs first, then weld the skins?
- Next align the fenders with doors and hood?
- Should the gaps be 1/8 or 1/4 inch?

Just want to make sure before I weld the door skins in place, that I'm doing this in the right sequence. I've got all the parts on the car to make sure there are not "big" alignment issues but want to be double-sure before welding the skins...

THANKS!!!
Duff

I've finished the new qtrs (weld, rage, sand, DP40), new door skins have been put on the shells but not welded (have been DP40'd) and new GM fenders installed and DP40'd.

Question???
- Should the doors be aligned with the qtrs first, then weld the skins?
- Next align the fenders with doors and hood?
- Should the gaps be 1/8 or 1/4 inch?

1. YES Before you tack the skins in place fit the doors to the car. Even install the striker as you want to KNOW how that door will fit when done as it is much easier now to repair any problems then later on.
In alreality you should have hung the shell back on the car once the skin was removed. This way you can correct any fit issues with the shell since the shell by itself is weak.

Get the shell to fit the car and close with ease, then install the skin on the shell. Ill place the skin on the shell with it still hanging on the car and proceed to hem the edges. I can adjust the fit very easily this way. Fold the back edge of the door then the bottom, with those folded the skin wont move. Remove the door and fold the front edge.

This is alittle show of a door skin install, doesnt have much description but you should get the idea.
http://rides.webshots.com/album/561536276SkBsQw
With care and the right tools, one can install a skin without the need for filler around the edges. This door skin is 100% free of filler and primer, it was sanded, sealed and painted and has no imperfections what so ever.

If you notice a few pics of the shell hanging back on the car without the skin and a orange deadblow hammer. Those pics show as misaglinment on the rear edge of the shell about half way down. Correcting that misalginment was a simple 1-2 min job since the skin wasnt in place and the shell will do what I want to do. With the skin installed, you would have been screwed!!!

There is no need to rush the job, going too fast WILL damage the skin.

Personally I hate those door skin hammers, I think they are joke. Use a regular body hammer and heavy steel dolly. Even then I use an air hammer and hockey puck to install my skins, Ill skin a door in 5 mins without the need for one drop of filler

Factory gaps where all other the place, these cars were NOT built for quality.

Strive to achieve about 3/16 gaps all round.

sevt - yes, I did align the shells first (forgot to say that). I also did use those pictures of the skinning; big help. I was just wondering if the fenders had to align perfectly before I welded the skins?

not to steal you post duff but how do u get gap in the middle and bottom of the fender? i have a good gap at the top of the fender but as u go do the gap gets smaller. iver shimed the radiator support which helped a lil but now the support bolt aint long enough. i was told to put shims under the front of the fender will open the gap as well is that ture?

1. YES Before you tack the skins in place fit the doors to the car.
I did my first door skin last week, and pretty much did it like you described. It came out perfect. The only plastic it will need, is on the front edge where the dolly put some small dings in the skin. I like the idea of using a hockey puck :cool:
Not a big deal to fix now. Just a thin layer of plastic on the edge.
The question I do have is this: How do you weld skins. I punched 3/16" holes in the lip, every 5" or so, then tacked them after the lip was bent over. Then I ground the welds down with a 1/4" grinder with a small sanding disc. When I spray the filler primer, I will shot a couple coats on the lip, then use the eraser end of a pencil , to fabricate, spot welds.

Bill, 3/16 holes every 5" is overkill.
A 1/8 hole is plenty.
Even then a tack weld at each corner will hold the skin in place. The welds just prevent the skin from shifting on the shell. The folded edge is what keeps the skin on the shell not the welds.

Well, since you installed new quarters and aftermarket door skins, fitting the fenders to the car would be a good idea. When I R&R (remove and replace) something I do NOT like surprises. Thats why I fit the door shell to car and fix any problems, then install the skin as the shell is on the car. I will KNOW 100% how it will look in the end, nothing sucks worse then painting the part and finding you need to "tweak" it.

Fit the fenders to the doors, you might find that you need to tweak the door for the proper fit. The door will work with you much easier NOW before you finalize the job then afterwards...Eric

That is a truly work of art on the door skin pics. Props.

I have a 1967 chevelle i put new quarters on and now iam puting the doors on there is a big gap up top between qarter and then door lower is ok what to do.

Just make sure you weld the skin on before doing any body work. I reskinned the passenger door on mine and did all the fitting prior to welding skin on. After getting the fit I wanted, I took the door off, welded the door skin on and did the body work. I then put doors and front clip together to do final sand. To my surprise in one area of the door (about a 1inch area) was in from the fender. When welding the skid to inner structure the metal was sucked in and did not align flush with the fender like it did prior to welding. It was my first time installing a door skin. Right or wrong that is how I did it and it did not work out like I wanted. Just my 2 cents worth.