I bought some naval jelly it was suggested to me by a friend. I put some on but it dries up really quick has anybody else used it that can give me some tips?

Naval Jelly is JUNK !!!!! Air craft strip is what you want to use. :hurray:

www.howardsbackyardautobody.com :beers:

Depends on what your using it for.

For stripping paint the aircraft stripper is much better, for getting rust out of pits NJ works well.

Use it when the metal is not hot.;)

Chuck

Naval Jelly is JUNK !!!!! Air craft strip is what you want to use. :hurray:

www.howardsbackyardautobody.com (http://www.howardsbackyardautobody.com) :beers:

:rolleyes:

Cover the metal once you applied the naval jelly with saran warp. Also misting the naval jelly with water prevents it from drying out.
Its hard to beat naval jelly for removing rust scale, its nonabrasive and wont harm the metal...Eric

Cool thanks for the help thats exactly the information i was looking for :thumbsup:

I bought some and have been testing it. I have to say I have not been impressed at all. Maybe I am doing something wrong.

I bought some and have been testing it. I have to say I have not been impressed at all. Maybe I am doing something wrong.
How long are you letting it sit? Are you scrubbing with anything?

I won't remove paint

I have been testing it on a rusted piece of sheet metal I have. It is very pitted. I have tried letting the stuff sit anywhere from 15 minutes to 24 hours. I have been sure to try to keep it wet by re-applying it. I have applied about 4-6 different coats with very little difference at all. I used a course parts cleaning brush and water to clean between coats. I have been too lazy to use a Scotch Brite pad or anything like that since it is just a test. Maybe I should put a little more elbow grease into it. I planned on using it in some areas that I cannot really get to with a Scotch Brite pad, so I was trying not to scrub it for the test. I am using Henkel's Naval Jelly that looks like thick, pink Pepto Bismol. I bought it for $5 at Lowe's so if it doesn't work that's OK, but it would be great if it did. I have been trying to remove rust not paint, although the bottle clearly states not to get it on paint because it will remove it. Oh, and the garage has stayed right around 60* during the test. Any tips would be appreciated.

If you only want to remove rust, try the stuff called Evapo Rust. You can get it in gallon jugs from harbor freight and it does an amazing job. I have cleaned many parts with it and have had great success. If you can soak it overnight it will do all the work for you and no elbow grease is required. Hope this helps. Chef

I use Toe Jam ??

Naval Jelly works well but it takes time and some elbow grease with a red scotchbrite. With enough time and effort you can pull every black speck of rust out. Kleen-strip prep and etch also works well if you saturate a paper towel with the stuff and cover the corrosion-the towel is just there to hold the liquid where it needs to be. Pull the saturated towel off and scruff for awhile then reapply and let the acid work some more and repeat untill all the corrosion is gone-then rinse with water then alcohol and dry. The alcohol helps get the surface dry before any new corrosion can start. Then sand the surface and clean again before any primer gets applied.

I used air-craft stripper on my Camaro and when the stripping was complete I used ospho on the rust spots. If you use this method and epoxy primer the entire body the only rust you may see in the future is limited to the bare-metal rusting that may pop out from the inside of a panel.

Naval jelly is expensive. Just get a gallon of metal prep and use it full strength. It's all dilute phosphoric acid, Naval Jelly just has some gel in it to make it stick better. As long as you keep it wet, metal prep will work as well as the Naval Jelly at a fraction of the cost.

Tom

I just tried naval jelly on some rust (thanks to a vinyl top). It would remove the non-pitted rust up on the surface but wouldn't touch the deep black pitted stuff. I left it on over an hour, kept it moist, and scrubbed with coarse steel wool. Next I'll try the stuff from Harbor Freight. If that doesn't get it I'll make a mess sandblasting.

I stopped by Harbor Freight and looked for Evapo Rust. I couldn't find it so I asked a guy working there who stocked the shelves. He never heard of it and doens't recall them ever stocking it. Maybe it depends on where you live, but in Columbus, OH they didn't have it.

I stopped by Harbor Freight and looked for Evapo Rust. I couldn't find it so I asked a guy working there who stocked the shelves. He never heard of it and doens't recall them ever stocking it. Maybe it depends on where you live, but in Columbus, OH they didn't have it.
Are you sure they were competent enough to know? All the HF's I've went into either had ex-burgerflippers or people who couldn't make the cut for a burgerflipper.

i have used MURIATIC ACID with the best and fastest results. the parts come out with absolutely no rust whatsoever. it will remove any and all rust. i tried it on the inner lip of a trunk lid last year. it removed all of the rust COMPLETELY,even between the metal layers. just remember to keep the area wet and use it only in well ventilated areas. this stuff is very nasty. if you get a good whiff of it,you will imediately start coughing. it has the consistency of water,but you can still apply it with a paint brush. be cautious with it. if you get any on your hands or arms,you will know it,so keep a hose nearby to wash it off right away. after all the rust is gone from the piece you are treating,hose the area down with water good to neutralize all the acid and pat dry imediately. do not allow the water to air dry. it will form a layer of flash rust as it dries.your local hardware store has it for about $5.00-$6.00 a gallon. the acid really takes the metal down to the raw element, so i recommend getting some primer on the area within a couple of hours as well. thanks, dave