Anybody here using Dick Miller rear suspension componets & set-up? Any noteable pro/cons for this set up in a street strip car? I am close to purchasing and hope to get some opinions. The kit is upper & lower control arms, springs and Qa1 shocks for a 70 Chevelle. Thanks, Nick

I had it under my '70 Elco. I drove it on the street alot, it wasn't really any worse that the stock setup with poly bushings. I had the whole kit except the rear swap bar. I shaved almost .5 off my 60ft times compared with the stock suspension. I went from running an average 2.1 to 1.6 with no other changes. The big change was due to tons of spin off the line, then I had a near dead hook with Hoosier 28/13.5/15 QT's after the DM kit was installed.

I believe Tom is (mc71454) has the same setup. Or at least he used to, if it wasn't for his input I wouldn't of bought the kit, I was glad I did.

You didnt mention the no-hop bars...
although Im assuming that they are part of your kit. It makes for a stiff suspension ( read limited travel before bind). Aside from that.. the adjustable uppers are very nice for setting pinion angle and pre-load. Lets face it.. Our cars are now over thirty years old and the adjustability factor sure helps compensate for sag, tweaked frames, etc.
There was some grinding and drilling required to get the no-hop bars to fit on my 12 bolt. aside from that its a bolt in swap.

Still under there Cable..I am curious to what I have to adjust it to when I step it up a notch this season with the tuneup.

Suspension is as follows:

Dick Miller No-hop bars, upper and lower control arms with nylon bushings -4.0 Pinion Angle
QA1 12 way shocks with cargo coils and air bags in the rear, Moog stock 6 cylinder coil springs up front with KYB Gas Shocks and shock nut trick
Front Sway Bar removed.

3.42 Richmond street/strip gears
Hoosier QT Pro 28x13.5 on 15x10 weld prostars at 20 psi
205/70/15 Cooper street radials on 15x6 prostars up front at 35 psi.


http://www.boomspeed.com/mc71454/launch10_76_cropped.jpg

Yes, the kit included the no-hop bars. That dead hook improvement sounds good to me. Thanks for the pic and info Tom. If I could get close to that hook, I'd be happy! Nick

Nick,

here is a link to a video I made. It shows the launch from behind using stock suspension and then with the Dick Miller kit. first stock, then DM and then it repeats.

Note there is no squat with the no-hop bars. From the side view (which is not in the video) you would be able to see there is a slight raise in the rear, this is the separation of the chassis which really plants the tires. It is important to get the front rising an instant before the rear starts separating. That is tuneable in your shocks and springs.

Video:

http://www.boomspeed.com/mc71454/no_hop.wmv

my car was running 11.50's at the time I made the video.

Cool video Tom! I watched it about 20 times. I can definitly see the differance. My car acts like the before video, but more spin. I have only 1.5 - 2 degrees pinion angle currently with SSM lowers and non - adjustable Also, Morosso trick springs in the rear. Dont know what springs I have in the front. Wish there was a way to tell!
I most likely will go with the Dick miller set up. I am trying to hook up 540 c.i. 830 hp on 29x10.5x15 MT Drags on 10" wheels.
By the way, you running those 10.7s 1/4s with full exaust??

Yes, full exhaust, never ran it with open headers.

I like the consistency I got with the suspension. It doesn't leave real wild the way I have it set up, but that's what I want for consistency......That day in the pic, I ran 6 10.76's in a row and won the class. never changed the dial in from the second time trial to the win in the final.

What is the difference between Miller's setup and other's? I see that the kit includes lowers, adjustable uppers, braces, anti-roll bar, springs and shocks - nothing out of the ordinary. I was just wondering what makes DM's stuff so special and can better results be had by using his stuff vs say, Hotchkis or Edelbrock's?

I think Dick Miller's stuff is made out of chrome moly, which I believe is lighter and stronger than the others. anybody else??

Tom, six 10.76s in a row! Hope you keep that car in New York!! What are you gonna do to get in in the 9s?? smile.gif
c ya, Nick

looks like the boomsoeed server is down, 3:38PM MST:

getting timeouts in a browser connect and ping shows:
Pinging www.boomspeed.com (http://www.boomspeed.com) [38.113.128.67] with 32 bytes of data:

Request timed out.
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
Request timed out.

Ping statistics for 38.113.128.67:
Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 0, Lost = 4 (100% loss),

might want to contact the ISP or server owner. Rats, I really wanted to watch that video.

Originally posted by kboorman:
What is the difference between Miller's setup and other's? The uppers can be adjusted without unbolting one end like some others.

Originally posted by kboorman:
What is the difference between Miller's setup and other's? I see that the kit includes lowers, adjustable uppers, braces, anti-roll bar, springs and shocks - nothing out of the ordinary. I was just wondering what makes DM's stuff so special and can better results be had by using his stuff vs say, Hotchkis or Edelbrock's? The Chrome moly, nylon bushings, the no-hops have two upper mounts instead of the typical one higher point. This is becoming the norm now as many have gone to the single lower mounting hole or have two like the DM. Heim joints on the uppers, they are less bulky and fit together perfectly unlike 2 other types I tried, one I couldn't even use since it did not enough adjustment to get the proper pinion angle.

adjustment "on the car" as Hoffbug mentioned, others have this now too, but not many when I bought mine.

The workmanship quality is excellent.

Yes, you can get similar results with other set ups. But I am not sure who else offers a complete kit with all the direct and indirect benefits, I haven't researched that for about 3 years.

Nick - 9's ??? My car just may be too heavy to do that without serious durability issues in the drivetrain, unless I spray it from 60 ft out or install a turbo with about 1 second of lag.

Tom M. - you have mail. Hope Boomspeed comes up soon, my Ebay ads are not getting the pictures to load up.

Thanks for the info guys. Has anyone else experienced the binding that Tony mentioned?
I am just starting to look into possible suspension upgrades for my '66. My problem is I have spec'ed out a stout 489 that I wanted to use with a Tremec 5 speed manual. After cruising this site for awhile now, I realize that a big torque motor paired with a stick is not an ideal situation, and I am hoping to find some way to make it better. My initial goal was to get into the tens, but knowing what I do now, I'd be happy with low 11's. Maybe it will take changes to the engine combo, definately upgrades to the suspension, and just maybe I'll just come to the realization that it's not going to work unless I go with an auto. Anyway, once I get my thoughts together on this, I'll start a different thread to pick your brains.
Thanks again, Kirk

Thanks for the extra info Tom. I can relax now. Ordered my kit today. Hopefully money well spent!
Yep, just what I was thinking, a little spray about 60 ft out = 9 seconds with full exaust!!??

About the binding, I didn't experience any at all. The one thing recommended with the DM kit is to Not use a sway bar. You can get the lower arms with bosses for the sway bar, but DM Recommends against it. With proper pre-load in the upper right you shouldn't need it.

I will be installing the anti-roll bar if budget or need exists.

Well.. Maybe "bind" isnt the correct wording... But I dont have near the suspension travel I used to. Didnt you notice this too Tom?

Originally posted by hoffbug:
Well.. Maybe "bind" isnt the correct wording... But I dont have near the suspension travel I used to. Didnt you notice this too Tom? Yes, if I were to categorize any change from stock in the ride quality it would be suspension travel. So I am with ya there Tony.