hey guys i am almost done racing this year and i have decided to tear the old stroker apart for some improvments now the combo i have is excellent but just short of my goal of 11s on the motor ( best of 12.10 @ 110.24 ) Now i know i have a tank for a car and that is fine i have the nitrous and can squirt it deep in to the 11s with ease i just think it is time for a solid roller with all the extra parts to give me the extra nuts i need ! Anyone out there run a sbc roller in the 11s range here is my combo
385 ci sbc
13.1 cr
Pro action iron lightning heads with 235 cc intakes and 2.08 1.6 valves
I have a super victor port matched to the heads
i have 1.5 crane rollers
currently a lunati 553 solid cam with 250 and 260 duration at 50
turbo 400 with a brake and 4500 stall
12 bolt with 4.10s and 26x 10.5 hoosiers
all in a tank of a monte at 3750
new best this past tues
all motor 12.10 @ 110.24
and 125 shot 11.21 @ 119.75
graemlins/beers.gif

if anyone has any ideas let me know i am thinking maybe a roller with 630 lift or maybe higher duration in the 300s
let me know thanks guys
bryan

its hard for me to understand why youre not there already. are all the bugs out of the suspension? does the car hook? all the engine tuning dead on? im by know means a performance guru but the heads do look a little large and the tires a little short. but thats just my line of thinking. im sure you will get better advice than i can give. Dave

hey dave all advice is good advice! yes we have the suspension running 1.59 60s off the juice and 1.540 with the juice so the suspension is great just need alittle more umph to get it down the track and i went to the 26 tire from a 29.5 and i actually picked up et and speed so the tire is good i just need to put more cam in it and maybe one of those 950 hp or would that be to much let me know guys
i know from past post the 950hp flows only 830 so would that help??
bryan

I would think that you would be running 11.50's on the motor with that setup easily. Bigger parts don't necessarily mean lower e.t.'s, but more torque does. My 3500# 385" daily driver Nova ran 12.10 @ 112 with a 228° Erson hydraulic cam. I have a good friend that tried several big roller cams in his mid-12 sec 355" Nova, and each one was no better than the old Comp 280H that he had been running. I finally convinced him to build a 406 test motor using mostly stock parts and put the 280H in it. He has gone 10.80 @ 122 with the new motor using a 100 shot, 12 flat on the motor.
Do you have an exhaust system on your car? It seems conspicuously absent from your list of specifications and is an important part of your setup.

Bryan,

Like Dave, I too am surprised you are not there already even though your combo is a little mismatched.

I used to run a similar combo, except I was running out of the box AFR 220's and only 10.31:1 compression. I did run a roller cam, 4.56 gears, and 28" tall slicks also (see website for more detail) At 3600 lbs. my car would run equivalent to 11.50's in even the worst weather conditions. I felt this combo was a gross underachiever.

Where are you shifting now? What type of fuel do you run? What jetting? What type of exhaust are you running? What is your cranking compression? It is likely out of sight with that small of a cam and 13:1. Any signs of detonation?

I think you are going to need quite a bit of cam, and some RPM to get your heads to work for you, or else you are going to need to up the N2O pills.

The last solid roller cam I tried was 264/272@.050, .645/.645, 108 LSA(for sale btw). Peak power was at 6800 RPM. In the minimal testing I did with this cam it was about .1 faster than my 250/260@.050, .600/.625, 106 LSA cam. I think there was more in than that though.

Good Luck,

Originally posted by bryan thomas:
here is my combo
385 ci sbc
13.1 cr
Pro action iron lightning heads with 235 cc intakes and 2.08 1.6 valves
I have a super victor port matched to the heads
i have 1.5 crane rollers
currently a lunati 553 solid cam with 250 and 260 duration at 50
turbo 400 with a brake and 4500 stall
12 bolt with 4.10s and 26x 10.5 hoosiers
all in a tank of a monte at 3750
new best this past tues
all motor 12.10 @ 110.24

if anyone has any ideas let me know
Here's one, you're lost!

Classic mismatched combo!

A 13:1 385 and the best you can muster is a 12.10!! :eek:

You don't need a roller, you need to rethink your parts selection and learn how to tune!

Since you already have bought into the bigger is better mentality, you need a bigger cam, more stall, more gear, more RPM and taller tire to utilize those heads and that intake!!!!

Otherwise, lose the Super Victor and forget using a trans brake especially with 26" tires, :rolleyes: for starters.

I had the same problems from a 385... You are running a big(heavy) dome piston and probably turning close to 7000rpm? I bet if you ran 3.73s and a 3500 stall you would pick up quite a bit of ET. I took all of the parts from the 385 and put them on a flat top 355/with 54cc heads and went 4/10s faster. With a 385 the strength is low to mid range power. The long stroke will limit the high rpm..I know there are guys turning high rpms with a stroker..7000+..but thats the exemption..not the rule. Im building a hi reving 377 this winter..going with a soilid roller..my vehicle weighs 4100/w driver...Its(and the driver) is going on a big diet too...

IMO the heads are the biggest problem.
235cc heads are way too big.
I`d be willing to say that a set of mildly worked Vortecs would run quicker on that setup.
200cc runners are probably too big even.

Take a peek a Kazuaki`s el camino that`s a car that just flatout impresses me.
11.30`s @ 117mph with a F/T 383 with out of the box Edelbrock performer rpm heads...170cc!!

On the roller setup, we use a 288/296 Hyd roller with solids on it lashed tight (.0015 cold).Very light springs 125lbs seat pressure
Just checked the lash after 1200 miles or so and they were spot on.
Car is fairly heavy but with a 406 it ran 11.60`s @ 119 on the first and only time we went to the track with the new cam setup.
A spinning 1.81 60 ft too.

sorry 2x post

I'm with BigRed on the fact that the heads are WAY too big...you killed any low end torque due to poor velicity through the intake runners.

To utilize that big of a head on a 385 ci sbc, you would likely need to spin the engine to 8000 rpm assuming you had a cam that made power in that range.

For most serious 383/385 combos, a 190-200 cc head is more than adequate...smaller on a heavy vehicle, larger on a ligher chassis.

You cam change cams every week if you wish, but you'll never do much better in the ET department (unless you wanna spin it close to 8k rpm) until you address your head choice issue...it's a big mistmatch IMO.

hey guys thank you for the help i do not use my exhaust at the track although i have a dual 3" mandrel bent flowmaster system for the street i do use 110 octane all the time for fuel and i KNOW that i have way too small of a cam for the heads that is why i posted that i want suggestions for a cam :mad: so ( go to guy ) i find it funny you are not a registered user and you have never posted a car or combo and for what it is worth any HELPFUL suggestions all you do is spout off with hateful and useless info and b.s.
show some balls and post your combo and let us criticize you and your stuff
i am open to all suggestions that is fine and i have always used the info on this site but if you are just goin to post stupid or unhelpful things just dont do it you are only making people dislike you and your info graemlins/clonk.gif
we have had to many people do that in the past!!
just keep it to yourself if you have nothing good to bring to the person or group !! graemlins/sad.gif
bryan

Originally posted by bryan thomas:
if you are just goin to post stupid or unhelpful things just dont do it you are only making people dislike you and your info graemlins/clonk.gif
we have had to many people do that in the past!!
just keep it to yourself if you have nothing good to bring to the person or group !! graemlins/sad.gif
bryan Hum seems you're part of the problem and not part of the solution with these, your quotes...

"here we go again :(
http://www.geocities.com/igotta71@sbcglobal.net/smilies/argue.gif


http://www.geocities.com/igotta71@sbcglobal.net/smilies/deadfish.gif


http://www.geocities.com/igotta71@sbcglobal.net/smilies/fc5716bd.gif"

"you dont have all the bse and ed b.s." :rolleyes: graemlins/beers.gif

"this guy is a complete azzhole"

You did say..."if anyone has any ideas let me know" and "all advice is good advice"

You got what you asked for.

thanks ed it is all coming back to me know

I also agree the heads are the limiting factor here. A bigger cam probably wont help too much, I think you'd have to step up on the gears and converter.

I see your car is a bit on the heavy side, so I'd aim for the smaller cam and heads for the torque production. On my 412ci motor, I'm using 200cc heads, and a 292/292 cam with 12.4:1 compression. My best ET has been in the high 11.60's with a 3.73 gear in a 3200lb car, turning 6100RPM in the traps. I bet you could sell those heads for mucho $$$ on eBay, then purchase a new set.

Bryan I am with some of the other replies. I personally do not think a bigger cam will help. I also think a cylinder head in the 180 to 200cc range max would help out quite a bit. You are already good with the cubes. You can enhance that with better port velocity, and a smaller cam, you will have to back off the compression quite a bit. Your 60 foot times dont seem to be a problem. Just for a comparison a buddy of mine runs a 70 monte carlo, he weighs about 165 pounds, runs a 355 with 10 to 1 comp, Vortec head kit from Scoggin Dickey, 2.73 gears, yes 2.73 gears, a 1800 stall converter, a Vortec Performer intake, an out of box Edlebrock 750 carb, and a Comp XE268 hyd flat tappet cam. Best e.t. 13.93! Yes 13.93. And it flys on the highway. I feel the heavier the car the more you have to build for torque. Good luck. smile.gif

well since you dont want to get different heads and and lower your compression {wich i completely understand cause that basically requires you to build a new motor and not everyone has 5 grand laying around} i say put a huge friggen roller in her, wind the hell out of it and take full advantage of those monster heads and big intake, then if you go bigger cam you can bring your total timing up. I would also think that combo would already be in the 11's but if its not call Erson and check there rollers out, they have a ton of em for SBC. and if you want to go a little less expensive Doug Herbert has excellent prices on there rollers, good luck man.

thank you all for the help i think and agree with you for the fact i bought the heads for the future when i got done bracketing this year i would put a roller in it i am not or cannot afford to start over again as most of us cant
I just wondered if anyone had past experience with the whole solid roller system
i know i need a new set of springs, bronze gear and a cam button which my cover has built in but i have also heard a stud girdle and rev kit will be needed also
any help with that or experience let me know thanx
bryan

heres my opinion on the roller Bryon. like i said before im no guru, but these are my thoughts. General concecensious here seems to indicate the cam change will not produce much. with that being said, i see no need to run hugh valve spring pressures with the need to possible change springs at regualr intervals. You might take a look at going to a smaler intake to try to speed the intake charge up a bit. (may or may not work). Try 1.6 rockers on the intake valve if you have the clearance. I did not notice what you had for headers or exaust. if you can work in this area you may be able to improve the scavanging and help the flow as well. Good luck. Dave

Bryan,
Here's another opinion but I think you would be money ahead & happier with the results taking the $1500+ dollars you are going to spend on everything around the heads to make them work & sell yours. Then get a set of smaller ones.
But to answer your question,,,,,,,,
You hit all the main parts for a cam change.
Except the heads of course :D
This has all been mentioned already but,,,,,
They really are too big for a 385 unless you intend spinning the snot out of it or spraying it all the time.
If you are gonna keep the heads I would lower the gear to at least 4.56 preferably 4.88, up the convertor to 5500or so & plan on seeing a minimum of 7500 more like 8000+ to make them work.
Don't skimp on lifters, bite the bullit & get good ones. My first choice is Isky Red Zones & next would be Crower with the Hi pressure oiling option.
They ain't cheap but in my opinion a good investment & they can be rebuilt.
There are other lifters that are cheaper but I feel these are the best out there.
You should run a rev kit with a roller. The main reason is the lifters will last a lot longer. It keeps them in contact with the cam so they don't "skip" or slide but roll as intended. The Stud gridle is a good idea as it stiffens up the valve train & they ain't that spendy.

Originally posted by Wolfplace:
If you are gonna keep the heads I would lower the gear to at least 4.56 preferably 4.88, up the convertor to 5500or so & plan on seeing a minimum of 7500 more like 8000+ to make them work. Originally posted by go_to_guy:
Since you already have bought into the bigger is better mentality, you need a bigger cam, more stall, more gear, more RPM and taller tire to utilize those heads and that intake!!!!
Be careful. ;)

Looks like the same advice I offered to which he responded saying..."hateful and useless info and b.s"

It appears our poster is a bit thin skinned and doesn't want to hear the truth! tongue.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/waving.gif

actually i can see the truth it is just the way you word it !!
I have always taken what you say and just reworded it and you then dont sound like a dic$
Ed i know you know your sh#$ and i am in no way trying to tell you that your advice is bad .... but as i have seen and read before it is the way you deliver it to us
you should work on your people skills graemlins/thumbsup.gif
I know my heads are too big but i bought them with the intent on expanding my motor for the future now if i have gone to far and there is no way to help this out i will correct it ;)
but to come out and say " you have to learn how to tune and blah blah blah is just plain retarded graemlins/waving.gif
I have used some of your ideas to get my car to hook as well as it does now a 1.540 is hard for a 3925 lb car with only a sbc most bbc running in the 10s or 11s cant muster what i can but i guess you just overlooked that and went right to your gross neglegence to knock me down maybe it makes you get off in your own sick way but hear is a idea think before you type and maybe you will be alittle better received and i am sure i speak for many in sayin you know your sh@! you just cant deliver it
JMO
bryan

Let's stick to the question here, folks. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Well, here's my $.02 worth.....

In my business, you have to work with what the customer has. We rarely have the luxury of telling anyone their combo is all wrong, and they need to spend another $2000-$3000 to get it right.
I suppose with the 4.10s, you occassionly drive this car on the street, or even more than occassionly. The converter is OK for the heads/manifold, particularly if you want a big cam.
However, the cam I'm going to reccomend is for what you have. I had a 455+060 OLDS, 9.8:1 CR, 3000 SS converter, 4.10s, 3670 lbs, run a 10.91-121 at Norwalk, Ohio, last year. He launched at 1200 because his slicks were 3 years old----The driver's name is Joe Mahan.
I know you have bigger heads and a smaller engine, but IF you also drive the car on the street sometimes, I'd use a SB288/296R9, the same cam grind that Joe used. In a lower compression 383, it went 9 years on the street, and on the dyno pulled 266 ftlbs of torque at 1500,350 ftlbs at 2000,416 ftlbs at 3000, 465 ftlbs at 4500....
I won't go any higher, your higher CR will blow that away.
Cam specs at 255/263 at .050, .626/.626 valve lift, and 109 LSA, in at 102 int CL.
What sort of fuel pump are you running? A single Holley 110 or a Mallory 140 WILL NOT feed enough fuel.
There should be a 75 BHP or more gain over the Lunati solid cam.
If you calculate DCR, the valve timing at .020" is 39° BTDC IVO, 69° ABDC IVC, 81° BBDC EVO, 35° ATDC EVC.
If you just want to change rear gear to a 4.88, you can use a SB302/310R6, 271/279 at .050, .640/.640 valve lift, and 106 LSA. I wouldn't drive this one on the street.

UDHarold

Brian, I have a similar problem. My heads are too big for my compression and too heavy a car. I bought my AFR's for a blower application that I was going to build but so far it has not happened. So, I did a couple of things. First I picked a cam with a wider LSA than I would normally run. I did that to help build a smoother torque curve. Heavier cars tend to favor a little wider LSA. I knew that I was going to spray so the 112lsa made oven more sense. For a 112 the cam is not lazy at all. I thought it would be. However it is not like having a 108lsa cam. So I would look at a wider LSA cam. Next I would try to find an intake with a smaller intake runner. That may help to increase some intake velocity. In my case I picked the smallest runner tunnel ram I could find. The t-ram really helped. I think the small runners really helped intake velocity. It has more torque and better top end than the rpm performer, the Victor Jr and the Super Victor Dominator that I tried with these heads. My last run at the track with the t-ram was 12.4 @ 111.9 . Since then I have gone way down in jet sizes. I think I will probably pick up 1 to 2 mph with the smaller jets. Keep in mind that MPH was with 10.4 to 1 350 and me in the car. My stereo system and the roll bar added almost 400lbs to my car. The car weighed 4190 the day I ran it. Add another 230lbs for me and I didn't think 112 mph was to bad for a 4400 lbs land yacht. I have heard a lot of people talk about the Holley 300-25. They say for an open plenum manifold that it really builds a lot of torque and still pulls hard on the top end. I saw one once and it appeared to have a very tall but small runner if I remember right. I have never had one. The only other thing I would suggest would be if you go solid roller watch the pressures. I kept mine around 210lbs closed/450lbs open. You want to make sure the valves you have can handle the pressures. I had a buddy change to solid roller and thought the valves were ok. He sheared a valve stem head and dropped a valve about a week on the motor. Needless to say it was a lot more expensive to go through the engine again than it would have been to upgrade the valves. Good luck Monte

Originally posted by UDHarold:
Well, here's my $.02 worth.....


What sort of fuel pump are you running? A single Holley 110 or a Mallory 140 WILL NOT feed enough fuel.
There should be a 75 BHP or more gain over the Lunati solid cam.
If you calculate DCR, the valve timing at .020" is 39° BTDC IVO, 69° ABDC IVC, 81° BBDC EVO, 35° ATDC EVC.
.

UDHarold hey harold i was waiting for your expertiece thank you very much
yes i have a mallory comp 140 with a 16 gal pro cell and 1/2 or -8 all the way to the carb and you say that is not enough fuel ??? :confused:
i figured fuel was not my prob can you explain to me why that pump is not goin to work? thank you
second i do drive this car on the street about every weekend to the car show about 30 miles away
i know it is not economical but whatever i chose the cr
now answer me this i have 26 in slicks for the reason to in effect cheat my gear., now will i really need a gear change to make a huge
difference ? and i have thought to changing out my pistons for forged ( yeah i know graemlins/clonk.gif should have bought forged in the beginning but i was on a tight budget ) pistons and i will have the opportunity to lower my cr should i or stay the same ?
and will this new combo prefer a larger carb such as a 830 or 850 or 950hp ?
thank you in advance
bryan

Bryan,

The worst thing you can do with heads that are too big for a combo is compound the issue by running "low" compression. If you don't mind springing for race gas and are going to run the same heads I would keep the compression in the range you currently have it.

If you are in the market for new carb, I would go with the 950 HP or a similar carb that uses a 750 size venturi.

I would wait on a gear change until you find out what kind of power improvement you actually make and then gear the car accordingly. More than likely you will need some more gear though. It's also going to depend on what your plans are for the N2O.

Originally posted by bryan thomas:
harold i was waiting for your expertiece thank you very much
yes i have a mallory comp 140 with a 16 gal pro cell and 1/2 or -8 all the way to the carb and you say that is not enough fuel ???

now answer me this i have 26 in slicks for the reason to in effect cheat my gear., now will i really need a gear change to make a huge
difference ? and i have thought to changing out my pistons for forged ( yeah i know graemlins/clonk.gif should have bought forged in the beginning but i was on a tight budget ) pistons and i will have the opportunity to lower my cr should i or stay the same ?
and will this new combo prefer a larger carb such as a 830 or 850 or 950hp ?
thank you in advance
bryan You see this is why your ride is a slug, you ask the wrong people for advice!

While no one can argue Harold's expertise in cam design, he admits he has never built an engine and never driven any type of race car so why then do you think he's qualified to answer your questions about this street/strip ride??

Keep in mind as well as well, professional race engine builders tell cam grinders what they want, not the other way around. graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/waving.gif

Originally posted by DragRacer:
Bryan,

The worst thing you can do with heads that are too big for a combo is compound the issue by running "low" compression. If you don't mind springing for race gas and are going to run the same heads I would keep the compression in the range you currently have it.

If you are in the market for new carb, I would go with the 950 HP or a similar carb that uses a 750 size venturi.

I would wait on a gear change until you find out what kind of power improvement you actually make and then gear the car accordingly. More than likely you will need some more gear though. It's also going to depend on what your plans are for the N2O. hey jason thanks i really dont plan on changing the pistons just for the winter teardown i wanted to check them i have been on the bottle for about 125 passes this year although i have NEVER leaned on the motor at all plus i have the same plugs i started the season with ar131 graemlins/thumbsup.gif
car is dead on 12.17 + or - a few hundreds .well it is a mismatched combo for now it sure is easy on parts and has won me $$$ and respect ! most of all i am having fun something people need to get back too
graemlins/beers.gif
i may go with the 950 and a harold cam or somthing similar to what he recommended what do you think??
bryan

[/qb][/QUOTE]You see this is why your ride is a slug, you ask the wrong people for advice!


Keep in mind as well as well, professional race engine builders tell cam grinders what they want, not the other way around. graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/waving.gif [/QB][/QUOTE]

well you still have no idea how to respond to a post while being nice but whatever ok riddle me this ed...


why does harold not think the pump yea the comp 140 just like you use not big enough for my car huh? answer that in a simple form cause i dont know i never have a prob with fuel delivery even on the bottle? :cool:

also i appreciate harolds' response cause he actually answered the post and ??? i had asked
I want to know of a sbc roller cam combo he happens to have experience and has seen what cams do what in what cars.... you follow he did not just come on and spout off hateful crap as you did!
now if you can answer the above ??? i will take the advice
thank you
bryan

Originally posted by go_to_guy:
You see this is why your ride is a slug, you ask the wrong people for advice!Exactly how does the advice (good or bad) that Harold is giving now effect how Bryan's "slug" has performed in the past?

If you're going to attack people and their advice/opinions, at least be rational about it. :rolleyes:

Tim.

Originally posted by TronDD:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by go_to_guy:
You see this is why your ride is a slug, you ask the wrong people for advice!Exactly how does the advice (good or bad) that Harold is giving now effect how Bryan's "slug" has performed in the past?

If you're going to attack people and their advice/opinions, at least be rational about it. :rolleyes:

Tim. </font>[/QUOTE]thank you i agree i thought this site is for help not to get written abuse!! graemlins/sad.gif

Originally posted by bryan thomas:
why does harold not think the pump yea the comp 140 just like you use not big enough for my car huh? answer that in a simple form cause i dont know i never have a prob with fuel delivery even on the bottle? :cool:
How would I know, you'll have to get that answer from the cam designer. :rolleyes:

As you said though how is it that Ed runs mid 10's at 125MPH with the same pump and a 3/8" main fuel line?? Same pump btw supplied fuel to his motor over 6 years ago when he ran Harold's 288/296 hydraulic to the quickest times that Harold had ever heard of at that time using that cam in a 454. Then again that's no surprise because Ed retarded that cam 2 degrees something that harold then and now says his cams don't like. graemlins/clonk.gif

graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/waving.gif

hey very nice now was that so hard i asked a??? you responded very nicely i will let you know when he answers the very same ??? about the fuel pump and i thought you have 1/2 in line ... oh well memory is alittle rough smile.gif
bryan

Bryan,

To answer you first....
We are talking about air/fuel ratio here, and you obviously need the correct A/F ratio to make peak horsepower. About 26 YEARS of experience designing unsymetrical cams, 1st for Competion Cams(They still sell some of my original cams today!), then for UltraDyne, has shown me that at high-RPM the unsymetrical cam(the way I design it) flows a lot more, and cleaner, air, than the typical camshaft. All engines respond to this by going LEAN on the top-end if there is insufficient fuel for the available air.
Because I design all my cams, hydraulic, solid, roller, etc, similarly, over a certain BHP number they start showing this problem.
You can get my SB288/296R9, put it in like I said, and run it with just your one Mallory 140. If about 5500-6000, the engine quits pulling and goes very flat, you know that I will say it's running out of gas. The cam is pulling gas through the jets faster than the one pump is supplying to the float bowls. This is not a jetting problem, but a fuel volume/supply problem. Engines have been responding to the dual pumps for about 26 years, although the new breed of 250+ GPH pumps need only one pump. The 1/2" #8 line is also a necessity.
Please note the valve timing: When you put the intake lobe in at 102° ATDC by the lobe-centerline method, the intake opens at 39° BTDC. Everyone will tell you that is at 105° intake CL, and they are correct too. When the majority of this cam is at 102° ATDC, after top-dead center, this cam is at 105° at .020", and at 103.5° at .050". This is part of its' secrets(only part...).
Ed,

I have never built a racing engine, those guys are called "Engine Builders", nor have I raced a car in organized racing(I was pretty mean from 1957 to 1959 on the streets of Jackson, Miss), those guys are called "Racers". Furthermore, although I have worked full-time in this industry since 1974, I have NEVER GROUND A CAM! I am not a cam grinder, I am a cam designer.
I have helped hundreds of thousands of racers win races, 2 or more Daytona 500s, 2 different Funny Car championships, Comp, S/S, Pro Stock in IHRA/NHRA, all sorts of oval track, from dominating Figure-8 racing at Indianapolis to winning the Syracuse mile, etc, etc, etc.
I am only counting the people I talked to, I'm sure there are a lot that I don't know about.
I certainly respect your ability to tune an engine, and a chassis, and you say you are a good racer. I have NO reason to doubt your word.
However, I'll say this. The thousands of people who run my 288/296H almost ALL run it 4 to 6 degrees ADVANCED, and when they do so, they need a good fuel system.
If someone insists on running a 3/8" line and one Mallory 140 pump, I reccomend they run the cam 2° retarded, as you do, because if it's not going to get enough fuel, then it sure doesn't need that much air....

You're a Good Guy, Ed, keep on running those XEs...

UDHarold

Originally posted by go_to_guy:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by bryan thomas:
why does harold not think the pump yea the comp 140 just like you use not big enough for my car huh? answer that in a simple form cause i dont know i never have a prob with fuel delivery even on the bottle? :cool:
How would I know, you'll have to get that answer from the cam designer. :rolleyes:

As you said though how is it that Ed runs mid 10's at 125MPH with the same pump and a 3/8" main fuel line?? Same pump btw supplied fuel to his motor over 6 years ago when he ran Harold's 288/296 hydraulic to the quickest times that Harold had ever heard of at that time using that cam in a 454. Then again that's no surprise because Ed retarded that cam 2 degrees something that harold then and now says his cams don't like. graemlins/clonk.gif

graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/waving.gif </font>[/QUOTE]Why don`t you go snuggle with Ed? You sound like a couple of fags. redface.gif If you are so in love, keep it to yourself and leave it off this site....Nobody cares. graemlins/boring.gif

graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/waving.gif [/qb][/QUOTE]Why don`t you go snuggle with Ed? You sound like a couple of fags. redface.gif If you are so in love, keep it to yourself and leave it off this site....Nobody cares. graemlins/boring.gif [/QB][/QUOTE]

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hey dickhead why dont you read the whole post not just the last post you lazy ***** i am infact one person who email the administrator on the fact ed was back and i dont disagree with harold i infact was ASKING a ??? and if you read that in the above posts you would clearly see that graemlins/angry.gif
next time you acuse someone of something check first DEEK!
you sounded like ed on that one... real good!
bryan

Originally posted by bryan thomas:
graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/waving.gif Why don`t you go snuggle with Ed? You sound like a couple of fags. redface.gif If you are so in love, keep it to yourself and leave it off this site....Nobody cares. graemlins/boring.gif [/QB][/QUOTE]

]
hey dickhead why dont you read the whole post not just the last post you lazy ***** i am infact one person who email the administrator on the fact ed was back and i dont disagree with harold i infact was ASKING a ??? and if you read that in the above posts you would clearly see that graemlins/angry.gif
next time you acuse someone of something check first DEEK!
you sounded like ed on that one... real good!
bryan [/QB][/QUOTE]
wrong brian, sorry. I shouldn`t be so lazy. Just read a ton of posts by the dynamic duo and responded to the wrong one.oops

hey chris i forgive you please next time look b4 you leap graemlins/thumbsup.gif
bryan

go-to-guy / Ed. Now I can get the mystery unraveled. Heard a lot about the BSE combo. Doing a search on this site does not exaclty provide a build spec. You may or may not want to send me the spec, but if you are so inclined, I am quite interested in this engine and the requriements for the build. I am currently bidding on a 66 rolling chassis - it ain't pretty, but underneath it's all new and all there. Rear gear may need changing - currently 4:11's. Current trans is th400. Email me with the info if you like. I have no "Ed" history here and really don't care about the past - today is 10/14/03. Today and beyond is what I care about....lemme know.