nukebrian
Mar 27th, 08, 9:02 AM
After installing a new wiring harness engine bay and interior fuse block and harness the left side of the fuse panel is not working nor are the blinkers working or fan motor. Wow sounds like alot now that I think about it. Car was sweep gauge but converted to round gauges and gauges not idiot lights. Also there are some connectors under the hood that I dont know about. Square 2 connector plug with green,black on one side brown , brown on the other side. Round one connector plug with green. Square one wire connector with light brown. Round two wire connector leads opposite ways one black one orange. Wow now it really sounds like alot!!!!!!!! Sounds like I should have left it alone!!!!!!!! It is a 72 original 307 car now 468 with hei {was} working a/c. If there are any gurues close to Maryville TN come on over moneys good!!!!! :(:mad:
Chevy fan attic
Mar 27th, 08, 11:03 AM
What kind of harness did you use? Was it a painless?
nukebrian
Mar 27th, 08, 2:45 PM
Wow hope I haven't stumped everyone!!!!!!!!!! Dash kit was from ground up. $1750.00 Really need help!!!!!!!!!:sad:
Bubba's 69
Mar 27th, 08, 5:16 PM
Just the left side of the fuse block is not working? If so, recheck your connections to mace certain all are good. Disconnect the firewall connector and make sure nothing is damaged like a terminal bent over, this happens sometimes and you don't know it. Then I would take the fuse block loose and look at the buss bars in the backside of the fuseblock. Make sure one is not broken or there isn't a bad connection.
nukebrian
Mar 27th, 08, 10:11 PM
no bent leads all looks good. does anyone know where the left side gets power from?
Skeeveman
Mar 27th, 08, 11:46 PM
So you switched from sweep to round? That does make it a bit more difficult, but not impossible. First off, do you have a diagram that came with it, or a book containing 72 wiring schematics? If so, that would be great to have troubleshooting your problem, because the best thing to do is just understand how the harness works. If not, that's ok, you're just going to have to trace the paths of how everything works manually. Secondly, a multi meter is sure handy for checking continuity. Unplug your battery in case something is about to short out and catch fire before it's found. Start from the main feed of the fuse block, inspecting every connection, whether it be soldered, crimped, or molded. If you go from the source to the to the component being powered, you should find the issue quick, since it seems to cut out a whole mess of things (one half of the fuse block), it will probably be pretty uphill on the chain of power. Take a good look at the back of the bulkhead, look for something obvious that might have been a mistake in assembly process or a result of shipping/handling. Check the continuities of every circuit on the car, and once everything checks out, hook the battery up and see if everything's fixed. It's also probably a good time to go ahead and do the rear harness as well, after you get the front figured out. Might even find some connections to repair/replace that might help getting all of your lights brighter. Don't forget to use some dielectric grease on everything, especially between the two halves of the bulkhead, even though it probably came with some on there already... just make sure. And like I said, schematics are really handy for this! Oh yeah, and they are nice to know like the back of your hand when it comes time to repair or modify something that uses the juice.
Oh yeah, check all grounds!!! Make sure you have nice shiny metal on your connections, this will help everything, and is a common reason for odd problems with parking lights, turn signals and the such doing odd things that make you think there's a ghost messing with ya.
Hope it helps, let us know if you figure it out.