Anyone done this? I'm thinking about doing this on my '66, for better front to rear weight ratio. Not sure how much it can be moved back, without having to do so much work that it's not worth it. Maybe 3-4". I haven't mocked up anything on the car yet, just getting ideas together.

If using a automatic transmission, and a big block, here's my list of things that must be done;

Clearance the firewall for valve covers, block and distributor.
Move tranny tunnel back.
Move transmission crossmember back.
Move engine brackets back. This is one part I'm unsure of, depending on where the brackets mount on the crossmemeber. Does the crossmemeber have enough room to move these brackets back?

And then header to firewall clearance. I know custom made headers are big bucks, $1k+. Is there anyway in the world an off the shelf header would work? Off hand, does anyone remember how much room there is from your header tubes to your firewall?

Any other aspecs I may have missed? Suggestions? :D

Are you building a drag car Mark? Have you still got the Camaro? Must be nice to have two toys graemlins/thumbsup.gif

You're going to need a big hammer to move the motor back 3 inches. My hei is already close to the firewall in my 66. I have a 4spd and scattershield and it's always a pain to unbolt that from the block because its so tight. I don't know how much more room the auto will have. My headers are almost touching the firewall on 1 side if I remember right. Who knows maybe my motor has been moved back already :D If you do it I would like to see it when you're done.

Mike

There is a guy who used to come around our cruise nights around here with a canyon carver elco that the motor was moved back on. Not for me but he did some nice work.

Nope, had to get rid of the Camaro, it's gone, :( .

This '66 is going to be a Pro-Touring type, so I'm after handling.

I like how they did it on this Camaro. Using the wheelbarrel, :D .

http://www.bankspower.com/camaro-FirewallCowlMod.cfm

Oh man...I can't believe you got rid of the Camaro,that was a beautiful car. If I had known you wanted a Chevelle so bad, I would have traded with you graemlins/thumbsup.gif I just saw the post in BR. I'm sure this car will be every bit as slick as the Camaro. I had a 68 Camaro for a long time, and have always wanted another first gen. Oh well, the family fits in the Chevelle better. :D

If handling is really the goal, why not go with one of the new big inch small blocks that are out there in 427 - 454 CI range. You could move that back quite a bit really easy. Small block w/ Alum heads, Glass hood , probably loose around 300 - 400 lbs off the front end in the process. My son is on me to do a '69 Camaro after the '69 Chevelle is done, I am going to strongly consider one of these big inch small blocks for it.

I like the big inch small block, and when I do another '68 camaro, it will get one, all aluminum. But to me, a big Chevelle, needs a big block, :D .

I entertained the idea of this on my 64 a few yrs. ago, and am considering doing it again. Back when I first thought about it ( prolly 15 yrs. ago ) I measured the frame mounts and figured I could just swap them side to side and it would set the engine back 8". Very simple way of doing that part, but might be more set back than your looking for.

Setting the engine back in a Chevelle would take an enormous amount of work. Firewall would have to be fabricated, then new headers would need to be fabricated (not purchased), etc., etc.
If it is a drag car, you can probably take some weight off the front, depending on the class (if any) that you intend to run. Engine set-back is not really necessary with the good slicks that are available now days, though.

If a 66 is the same as a 65, a 3-4" move is no big deal. A plate bolted to the frame where the frame mounts went, then appropriate holes in the steel plate to mount the original frame mounts 3-4" back. The firewall and floor to transmission clearance is the biggest part of the project, especially with a turbo 400. Measure the distance between your distributor and firewall before you start, or put a dummy engine and trans in to check it. Be sure to leave at least 3/4" front to rear for movement when the engine torques over. I did it with manifolds, a points distributor and a heater delete, but I think headers shouldn't be a big problem.

I have a 71 and was able to move the engine back exatly 1". I have a big inch small block. And was able to lower the front of the engine to help correct the driveshaft angle with my lowered car. I had to modify the motor mounts and trans cross member.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I'm really going to consider this when the time comes. graemlins/thumbsup.gif