I'm gonna start my build soon on the 454 , most likely I'll end up going the 496 route (I know pdq67 will like that). Anyway my ques. is what are your guy's combo's (cam,intake,gear's,head,s etc..) for your stroked BB , the pro's and con's and thing's you'd do diff. if you did it again? Anyone put a 4.375 crank in w/out having to clearance the block? I'm lookin' to build a strong street runner w/ 500+ hp w/ an auto. tranny. Would also like to put a tunnel ram on , any suggestion's on this (I know,but I just want something diff.). What are your 1/4 mile times too? Now I'm gonna go grab a beer graemlins/beers.gif and watch some firework's!! Happy 4th!!!!
Thanks in advance graemlins/thumbsup.gif , Mitch.

He, He!! At least my handle isn't being taken in vain... LOL...

They say, you know "they", don't you?? --- that a 4.25" stroked crank is about max. for a 9.8" standard deck height block, but Speed-O-Motive sells 4.375" stroked rotating assemblies to go into 9.8" deck height blocks..

My 454, '74/'75 P/U block swallowed my 496 rotating assembly without any block modification at all!!

And looking my block over, it sure looked like a 4.375" crank would fit fine or with minor clearancing, imho..

Anyway, I do figure that I would want to use a 6.440" long custom length rod with a 4.375" crank to hold the rod/stroke ratio to a decent number even though there are some that says it really doesn't matter all that much as long as everything fits OK...

A stock 454 r/s ratio is 1.53...

A stock 6.135" rod with a 4.25" crank gives a 1.44 R/S ratio

A 6.44" rod with a 4.375" crank gives a 1.47 r/s ratio so it to me is better yet.

But they say to use a 6.385" rod with the 4.25" crank for an r/s of 1.50, so go figure...

You would need a 6.57" long rod to get that r/s ratio and it flat won't fit...

That's why "they" again say to use the 10.2" truck, tall deck height block AND an even longer rod for a better r/s ratio!! But then header fitment AND engine width rears it's ugly head..

pdq67

PS., and I want to make a 4.625" b x 4.375" s = 588" motor using a 9.8" deck height Dart or Merlin block for a 396 stealth motor!!!!!

And I am prepared to have the counterweights cam cut and heavi-metal added to gain any needed clearancing but I wouldn't think any would need to be done b/c both blocks mentioned are supposed to swallow 4.5" cranks fine!!!!!

Yep,
the 4.250 fits in with no clearancing. A 4.375 MIGHT need some and as always you have to check it but I would use it and a set of 6.385 rods, SRP pistons, and have fun.

pffftt, 500 horsepower? Stroker not needed. Tunnel rams work great, you just need to decide the engine's rpm range before you select plenum volume.

Use the search feature to find out about 496's on Team Chevelle. By the way, the 1/4" stroker on a 454 does not really gain you any horsepower - but it really flattens out the torque curve. My 496 was making 495 lbs tq starting at 2,500 rpm, peaked 602 lbs tq at 4,800, peaked 640 hp at ~ 6,300. If I ran a tunnel ram I would expect even more torque.

The basics of mine are listed in more detail in one of my posts from the dyno session. Basics are: 10.72:1 compression, solid roller .644/.642 actual lift after lash 248/254 duration 110 LSA installed at 108, Brodix BB2 heads 2.25 x 1.88 flow intake 377 to 384, Victor Jr, 1050 Dominator with spacer/adapter, 2" Hooker #2455, Mallory standard HEI, was Carter 120 Strip pump, now Carter 172.

Rest of combo on '65 El Camino: race weight with driver just over 3,600 lbs, 200 4R transmission with ~ 3,400 stall converter, 4.10 gears, 28 x 11.50 x 15 E.T. Streets, Hotchkiss lower rear arms, Morrison-Gazon adjustable uppers, lowered 5" rear/2" front, had 1" rear sway bar - now 1-3/8" rear sway bar, no front sway bar, KYB Gas-Adjusts in rear, Koni adjustable fronts. Best 60' = 1.57, with tuning engine and suspension I expect to get 60's in the 1.4x range. Should drop into the 6.7x's in the 1/8th.

Thomas

I bought an Eagle balanced assembly internal balanced. 4.25 stroke + .30 over is 489. I have about 10:1 cr. 119cc oval port 781 with 2.19/1.88 valves some port work. 1 3/4 or 7/8 Hedmans. Smallish Comp hyd 280 magnum, RPM Airgap intake, all MSD ignition, Holley 870 Street Avenger, TH400, 2500 rpm Coan convertor. I think the block needed some clearancing at the bottom of the cylinders or? It is a torque monster pulls well to 6K. Good vacuum and decent Idle. I would go hyd roller and larger cam next time and Brodix or AFR ovals, maybe 305 rectangles.

I was going to go the 496 route. Had a 454/2 bolt block ready for machine work. But I figured by the time I upgraded to 4-bolt mains and performed the other machine work a new 502 block started to look like not such a bad deal. Just my .02 cents. You can meet all your goals easily with a 496. 500 hp should get a 3800 chevelle easily in the mid 11s.

Two bolt mains in a big block will handle plenty of power. Mine is a studded two bolt block. A lot of "Super" category racers use two bolt blocks.

Thomas

Same here Bomber '67 , I have a 2-bolt main w/ stud's set to be in the machine shop in a couple week's to be all squared up. Definitely going w/ at least a 4.25 crank maybe 4.375 if I'm feelin crazy. I've heard 2-bolt big block's can handle in upwards of 700 hp w/ main studs. Should be able to handle what I'm after. Do the big block stroker's require a small base circle cam like some of the small block stroker's?
Mitch.

Sorry Mitch I am no trying to steal your post but I got a question that may benefit us all .

I am running a tall deck with 3.76 crank and 6.535 rods .I know the 6.535 are to get the piston higher .

I am getting any rod ratio effect with use of the 6.535 rods with the 3.76 stroke crank ? went this is divided it gives 1.74 rod ratio against the stock 6.135 rods 1.63 rod ratio .

The reason I am asking is that went I was putting my motor together someone in TC said that this make no better to the motor just bring the piston to the top ¨in my case because of the tall dell¨ ,I have been doing a search to see if I can find the post but no progres , I always got my doubt about this .Sorry but I donot want to end this post with this question .

I just finished a front end rebuild on my '65, and I'm about ready to drop my 496. I used a 2 bolt main block and a $1195 rotating assembly from Speed-O-Motive, with the longer rods and forged 10.2:1 Probe Pistons. The cam is an Engle Solid with HL-25 .560", 286* adv, 242* @ .050" on a 110LC. The heads are 781 with 2.19 and 1.88 valves, intake will be a RPM Q-Jet, unless I can't get the hood back on, then it will be either e Pefrormer or a 163 Rect intake. I hope to drive the car to the SCCCC show in Long Beach on July 18. I'll post results once it's running.