I am going to finish the install of my C Clip eliminators tonight and this weekend, I still have to cut off the end of the axle tube and have the rotors drilled out for 1/2" studs. Anyone do this recently and have any helpful hints or tips? I am also installing a Moser support cover. TIA

I did this and it was a simple process. I dontreally have any tips but it is straightforward smile.gif

Buy lots of extra gear lube. ;)

Buy the Ford ends instead. NO LEAKY!! :D

A really good sealant for the eliminator hub to axle housing suface is.. MOPAR "Gear lube RTV" p/n 82300234.

Its gray in color and seals better than anything I have found.

I agree with GM. Get the ford ends since you have to cut them anyway. Then you dont have to worry about those pesky C-clips anymore.

Rob

Originally posted by mfsr:
I agree with GM. Get the ford ends since you have to cut them anyway. Then you dont have to worry about those pesky C-clips anymore.

Rob you don`t have to cut the complete end off, just the extra bit that sticks out past the backing plate. to install ford ends, you would have to cut the ends off completely and weld the new ones on.

If you go with the Ford ends with press-on bearings, you will also have to buy new axles as well and that is another $3-bills. The Ford design is a good idea, but a bit more $$.

Never ran C-Clips, just always had them fitted with ford ends and bearings.

Doesn't someone make a bearing that will fit the stock axle? (Mark Williams / Strange)

Rob

If I had to do it all over again I would run the strange kit with the fully hardened pro- race axles and tapered bearings.

www.strangeengineering.net (http://www.strangeengineering.net)

From the strange website..
ABOUT THE A1100 GM kit..
We offer 10 and 12 bolt GM owners the best of both worlds. A thru-hardened pro-race axle that has been redesigned for circle track and hard core street-strip use.This is only possible due to the design of factory 10 and 12 bolt rear ends and extensive testing by strange engineering. Our specially designed c-clip eliminator kit (A1100) employs giant timkin unit bearings which survive severe side loads and constant use (Ball bearings are designed for DRAG RACE ONLY). The axle shaft is tapered to resist bending loads and the axle flange is machined to a generous radius for maximum side load strength.

Robert,
If you already have the C-Clip eliminator kits, just follow the instructions. You might wish to measure the bearing assemblies to see just how much of the axle housing you can leave sticking out. I think it's around 1/4 to 1/8". You will need to cut it square with the tubes, so maybe use a power hacksaw, or use a chop saw. Either way, make sure you are set up good and square.
I have used C-clip eliminators for the last 6 years, and have had no problems. I gave up on the supplied gaskets and just use RTV. I have never had a leak.
And I street drive the car with a spool btw.
I believe you can get C-clip kits with roller bearings now. Mine are the ball bearing types.
If I were to do it over again, I'd have had the housing cut to use the Ford bearings with the GM ends that allow you to use the stock GM backing plates and brakes, but that was not available when I did my car.
I use Dutchman parts, and I think they buy the Strange engineering stuff w/o the labels.
You might also wish to have the center section fully welded to the tubes. The factory spot welds can and will break, and the results are disastrous.

Ron

Thanks Ron,,,my center section/tubes have been welded since I installed the 12 bolt, the stock axles look great too, I figure they would have some twist to them after 3 years of racing. It sure seems like alot of weight hanging on that 1/4" of housing tube thats left with the eliminators installed,even though they are held on with 4 grade 8 bolts. If you ask me, I think the setup is safer with the c clips, I've never had any problems with them.

I've run into another setback, I cut the tubes off 1/4" from the flange, now the problem is,there is a small shoulder that the backing plate is supposed to sit on,(that I don't have since I'm running discs on the rear) Do you think it would be okay to use a washer to take up the space of what would have been or should be backing plate? I can see it now, nothing but problems because of the disc brakes.

i think washers would cause a leak there.
i've been running the strange c-clip eliminators with the roundy-round style taper bearings, because on two consecutive occasions the left axle broke on the starting line after driving the car to the track and doing a burnout with slicks and stock axles...........
i want to run disc brakes now but don't know which to use?

If I had to do it all over again I would run the strange kit with the fully hardened pro- race axles and tapered bearings.

www.strangeengineering.net (http://www.strangeengineering.net)

From the strange website..
ABOUT THE A1100 GM kit..
We offer 10 and 12 bolt GM owners the best of both worlds. A thru-hardened pro-race axle that has been redesigned for circle track and hard core street-strip use.This is only possible due to the design of factory 10 and 12 bolt rear ends and extensive testing by strange engineering. Our specially designed c-clip eliminator kit (A1100) employs giant timkin unit bearings which survive severe side loads and constant use (Ball bearings are designed for DRAG RACE ONLY). The axle shaft is tapered to resist bending loads and the axle flange is machined to a generous radius for maximum side load strength.


That's the kit I installed on my '67 12-bolt. It works great and no leaks at all after 600 miles. I used Hylomar on the gasket and housing ends.

Randy

I have used both kits, from Strange. I had stock axles and the ball bearing type for 3 yrs of racing and 3000 miles on the street. These were greasy and had some movement in the bearing itself when I removed them.

Then I upgraded axles and went with the Stranges with the tapered bearing.
So far so good. Never had any problem with either kit. I don't really see any problem without your backing plate unless your are using a LSD diff with the center pin yet. Otherwise with a spool and no pin it probably wont b e an issue. If it is a problem I would make a plate the shape of the housing end flange to put in there. You need to put sealer on each side of the plate too.
I also use only RTV, no gaskets, no leaks :)
You'll have to look at the back of the bearing to see how much tube you can leave out. I actually have no tube on mine, they are flush with the axle flange.

P.S. with the performance level you are at I would be upgrading those axles.
or is that also happening at this time?

Hope it goes well for you, Bob.

Brian

I think Bob might be done with this already. he last posted on that thread over 2 years ago. :D


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If I had to do it all over again I would run the strange kit with the fully hardened pro- race axles and tapered bearings.

www.strangeengineering.net (http://www.strangeengineering.net)

From the strange website..
ABOUT THE A1100 GM kit..
We offer 10 and 12 bolt GM owners the best of both worlds. A thru-hardened pro-race axle that has been redesigned for circle track and hard core street-strip use.This is only possible due to the design of factory 10 and 12 bolt rear ends and extensive testing by strange engineering. Our specially designed c-clip eliminator kit (A1100) employs giant timkin unit bearings which survive severe side loads and constant use (Ball bearings are designed for DRAG RACE ONLY). The axle shaft is tapered to resist bending loads and the axle flange is machined to a generous radius for maximum side load strength.

I relize this is an old thread, but I just orderd this kit for my 12 bolt, any comment on the kit good or bad?? With the 4.56 gears and I am putting in a tranny brake and a 5300 stall, I thought I should beef up my rear end as well. I am looking to get into the mid 11's this year
Cheers
Bear

I like mine.....no problems.

HI i have moser c clip elim kit on me 10 bolt never had a leak ,no bearing probs heap road miles ,i really dont know why people say abouts leaks ,and the moser bearing cant hack heaps road miles beets me never seen a failure yet if installed correctly
thanks
victtor jnr racing
new zealand

HI forgot to say i done over 5000 hard kms with no braing failures or leaks thats track racin and drag racin
cheers
victtor jnr racing
new zealand

i just installed a strange kit-i ended up having to cut a little more off the end, when the factory made the rear and neck'ed down the ends for the flange, it wasnt a perfect fit, had some interference, but a little grinding took care of that-they have enough seals i dont see leaking as being a problem