I've got a 65 283, and right now its just that small. It needs more. Its got a 2 barrel, and all the stock components. I really want to dump all of it and just keep the block. I would like some advice on how you guys think that these parts would work together, or their things that I really need to do.

Carb - 650 Holley Double Pumper
Intake - Edelbrock Air Gap (Got any better ideas?)
Heads - Have No idea (Edelbrock?)
Headers - Hooker Ceramic Super Comps
Cam - Comp Cams Magnum Street Stip Cam
Valtrain - Matched To Cam
Pistons - Will I need new ones?

Thats All I can really think of right now, but I know that I am leaving things out. I really want to make nice streetable horsepower. This will be going to the wheels through a TH350 most likely.

Thanks

Get a 350 you will be much better off. Torque is what makes a street car go and no matter how much you do to a 283 it will still be lacking in the torque area.

The first thing you need to realize is that most speed equipment for small block Chevys is specified around the 350. The 283 has about 80% of the swept volume of a 350, so what works well on a 350 won't necessarily work well on a 283.
Think small. I had a customer with a 283 in a 66 Chevelle that had it built like a 350, and it was not a very good performer.

What ever engine combo you wish to put together it is absoutly essential to know what trans and rear end gear ratio and tire diameter you will be running.That is just as important if not more so than the rest of the combo...

As nice as your 283 might be, if you are taking it down to the pistons and you want more power you really should park at least a 350 under the hood.

You said streetable hp, so point by point:
1) No need to overcarburate a mild 283 with a 650 double pumper. Something like a vacumn secondary Holley Avenger 570 or a Carter/Edelbrock 600 would be more than enough carb.
2) Given the smaller displacement, a Performer intake would be better then the Air Gap.
3) Heads, keep the valve sizes small for the small bore size of the 283 and to keep velocity up. Perhaps the Vortec heads would be all you need.
4) SuperComps are too much. Stick with a 1.5" primary tube diameter instead.
5) I don't know what cam specs a "street/strip" cam is. Once again, choose something on the smaller side to keep a 283 happy in street driving.

Have fun, good luck. Thomas

The 283 isn't very good for a street car. The bore is only 3.875", so your valves could come in contact with your cylinder walls or valve shrouding could be a problem. Plus, to get a higher compression ratio, you might need to use domed pistons which hurt flame travel. And because of the 3" stroke, there is very little torque for the street. If you like the fact that the 3" stroke can rev high, I would get a 350 block or a 400 block and put in a 3" or a 3.25" crank, but still, your low-end torque would suffer from the shorter stroke.

To sum up all my babbling, I completely agree with everything said above. :D

I was really toying with that idea vs going with the whole resto mod deal. Thanks For the input. I guess I should start saving up for a nice fast burn 383 or something.

You can do a 283...If you have a light car...tall gears..and some money. It will need to be around 12-1CR..AFR 195 heads...a solid roller in the 250 @ .050 range...be prepared to launch at 7000rpm and shift at 9000. Of course a milder 350 or 383 will do the same a lot eassier and cheaper

or you could keep it mild and put a Procharger or a Vortech Supercharger on it. not sure if that would fit under the stock hood on a 65 though. but if you want the most streetable performance without a power adder, then you need at least a 327ci but if you have to get another motor anyway, it might as well be a 350/383/400. bigger is usually better when it comes to cubic inches. ;)

Yes, CC is always bigger. Let me ask you guys this: how can I get some more power of my 283 without any over bore?

I loved my Mom's '65, 300 four door three on the tree, 283 two barrel!!

BTW, add a small solid cam like either the stock Duntov or a modern version of it for starters. Next, a 500 to 600 cfm vacuum secondary carb. on a Performer or slightly better yet, an 8004 Weiand.

Headers. If you can find them, 1.5" or if not, the 1.625" four tube long el-cheapo type..

If you want, a set of -601, 1.84"/1.5" 305HO 58 cc heads will do great!! And you can run the big valve double-hump heads if you don't go too tall on the lift, (say .450" or so), but the chambers may be way too big at 64 to 66 cc's for a 283 and hold decent compression..

As for gears and tires, you want her to be able to rpm so go from there!!

The little bugger should be a blast to rpm...

IMHO.. pdq67

What type of heads?

Ya, headers can be a pain for my car. Since it has AC and it has some crazy way of bolting the alternator and ps pump on to the driver exhuast manifold, and the AC on the other manifold, I gotta figure out what to do about it. I could get a march serpentine conversion to get rid of it, then get Heddman cermanic headers. They cost about $350, then Holley 600 CFM, Wiend intake like you said. Then some sort of comp cams cam, or crane arms--or does it really matter as long as the specs are the same.

I just ordered two books on small blocks, "John ligenfelter on modifying chevy small blocks" and "How to Hot rod Chevy small blocks" so I'll get my nose into those books and try to gain some more insight.

Small world adman, I'm a livermoron too. I had a 283 in my 65 camino with 30-30 "duntov" solid cam and victor jr, 650 mech sec. stock ported heads. I miss that engine, revved to the sky. A little down on torque leaving though. Go with the add cam and intake and save your money to build a 350.

got a '70 350 in my '65 with hooker headers. don't know if the accessories mount in the same place or not. I can send ya a pic of all the mounting brackets etc if ya like. no probs with mine. a/c was not fun to get working right though.

Have to go Old School for this one. You didn't say or I missed it, but the trans is? Either way its the same. If the motor runs ok (doesnt'smoke, Knock, etc.) leave the internals alone for now. 283 = big gears [ie. 4:10's at least.] Just add a four barrel (600 CFM),dual exhausts and run the heck out of it. Even a stock 283 will pull to 6000 and can be shifted at 6200 - 6500 in the lower gears with a big rear. Run it and save up for a bigger motor when you get the money together. Way back when, I ran a 283 in a '56 Chevy with a 4 speed and 4:56 gears. Wasn't much on the top end, but would run out the gears as fast as you could shift it. You would be surprised just how much power you can get from a combo like this. I even knew guys who were running 4:88's on the street with this set up. Don't get me wrong, I like big inch motors, but there is nothing like putting your foot into a set of big gears with a free reving motor.

How much does it cost to change the gears to a number like that? I'm assuming the high gear the better it is with a higher rpm. I still don't really understand gear ratios that well, or how they could could change things and what not.

Dennis, Where do you live? I bet I've seen your car around, you might have seen mine. Mine is light blue, and my dads is black, there both 65s.

Right now it has a powerglide, but it will be a TH350. If I do the whole high reving, high gears things, what is an estimate on the numbers?

personally, i wouldn't waste a dime on that 283. save it towards a 350. these guys telling you all these parts like solid cam and high winding rpms must have never driven a 283 with an automatic in a heavy car. ;) it'll run better stock than with all that crap on it, save your money. then go get you something you can work with like a 350 or a 400.
your car will likely weigh over 3500lbs with a driver, so with an auto it's going to need some torque. if you go with the other guys' high winding gig, then you're going to need 4.88 gears and a 4500-5500rpm stall convertor too, not much fun to drive on the street, unless you never get out of town and only run 35mph or something. once more for the record: save your money towards something worth spending the money on. ;)

M71,
For the record, if you read my response correctly, I also told him to just run the stock motor. Yes, their is no substitution for Cubic Inches, but for now, just to have fun, he could swap out the rear gears (probably has a 2.73 or 3.08 max) to a 4.10. Run this with the stock open 10 bolt and have some fun. The one thing I have noticed with all of responses that are given is the frame of reference always points to a street driven "race car". That's fine if that is what someone desires and wants to spend tons of money doing it, but many forget that we all (or at least most of us) started out many years ago on a limited budget. What I'm suggesting is the most economical way to a performance increase. The first performance change I have always made was a gear swap. FYI, a gear swap can be performed for about 250.00 - 300.00 total parts and labor. You couldn't change a cam out for that and an engine swap (350CI) will cost the price of the engine (used? 1000.00 minimum - haven't bought and installed a used motor in some time, personally have never been comfortable in running a motor that I didn't have checked out first) plus additional parts and labor. Yes a bigger motor will be the best in the end, but given the setup he has, a 283 /Auto and 4.10's will run circles around a 350 / Auto with 2.73's.

It will be a th350 tranny, but I can get a manual soon. Actually a cam swap in my car, would cost around $700.

Getting a New intake and Carb is only about $600-700 for a holley car and edelbrock/holley intake. I really want to add headers to it at least. That would cost $300. Right Now it has all stock components. Wouldn't adding just those things, (no cam) help a little bit if I were to change the rear gearing?

Adman,
If the motor runs good right now and you don't want to change the 283, just run what you have. You can get a used 4 barrel intake just about anywhere ($50.00 should do it). Get a 600 cfm vac secondary carb (basic Holley w/ vac secondaries and electric choke). Don't even bother with headers. Put a dual exhaust hooked up to the factory manifolds. On a 283 motor, you will not move enough air to make a big difference with headers considering the expense. Down the road, if you go to a bigger engine with more cam, headers are a must have item. One thing that should have been asked and answered earlier is what do you want from the car. My assumption is that if you wanted a high horsepower car, you wouldn't be looking at using the 283 in the first place. Do the basics first, then you can always change up if and when you decide to. For a reliable weekend cruiser, you may find that the basics are really all you need or want. Don't get hung up on feeling the need to put a 400HP small block in your car to fit in. There are plenty of guys that run mild engines and enjoy their cars. (Actually, the guys with the mild cars probably get to enjoy the car more because of less down time and maintenance.) Its your car, do with it as you please, but don't do it to please others!

I just want to get more power of that little guy smile.gif

GRN69CHV, i'm not sure if you can get a 350 to run that bad. you'd have to try and get it to, i guess then it would be possible. but i'd take a 2.73 geared 350 in a heavy car before a 4.10 geared 283, both motors being near stock.
as far as rearend set ups go, where do you get your's set up at? i had $250 in just the gears and shim kit and bearings. then it's another $150-$250 for the labor of some reputable shop to set it up. it could cost as much as $400-$500 to buy everything you need and pay someone to swap the gears.
if you stick with the 283 get a stall convertor and a very mild cam for it along with a performer intake and 500-600cfm carb. i wouldn't gear it down below a 3.73 if you plan on driving it much. i put 4.10's in my chevelle and i wish for driving's sake, that i hadn't. wish i had put 3.55's in it. graemlins/sad.gif

what effect do the gears have on the overall drive-ability of the car?

the higher the number, actually meaning lower geared, the quicker it will accellerate to a given point, at the sacrifice of causing the engine to turn more rpms while driving down the highway. 3.08 gears will not accellerate as quickly as 4.10 gears. the trade off is that you will be turning almost 1000rpms more, cruising at 55-60mph with the 4.10's. 3200rpms just to keep up with traffic is pretty hard on an engine and just a general PITA to deal with. if you do much highway driving the 3.55 gears will be plenty low enough. probably turn around 2600-2800rpms depending on how tall your tires are.
why would it cost $700 to change the cam? is that factoring in paying someone else to do the swap?

$700 for matched valve train

for what a roller set up? you should be able to get a matched flat tappet hydraulic cam/lifters/springs for around $300 or less. what kit were you looking at and who was it from?

Never try to inject common sense where it isn't wanted. Even though Adman could park a Target 350 underneath all his existing 283 hardware and experience more performance for less money than putting new gearing and performance gingerbread on the 283 - its pretty clear to me that he loves the idea of a performance 283. Really, are there not legions of enthusiasts who like to look at an engine with headers, aluminum intake, shiney carb and air cleaner - who just want to have fun cruising around, who could care less about their car's 16, 17, or 18 second quarter mile performance?

Adman, just pick a corner and dig in as your budget allows. If you start with the carb intake and headers it will give you something to smile about everytime you lift the hood.

Thomas

advice well taken. :D

Bomber '67, my sentiment exactly. If you have something you like, just work with it and be happy. The one thing that still never quite was clarified was "How much driving Adman wanted to do with the car" and "what state of tune the car/engine was currently in". It really comes down to what will make you happy. I have a good freind that has 3 beautiful cars. '64 GTO 389 Tripower Convertible (frame off resto done in early '80's, '66 427 Conv. Vette (again beautiful numbers matching car) and last a restored '49 Chev. Woody Wagon - Straight six/3 on the tree. Guess what car is the slowest under powered slug at the local car shows and cruise nights - now guess what car gets the most drooling over - hands down - the Woody!

Adman - make your car the nicest presentation you can and add power, etc as you go. If you want to run the 283 - go ahead.

M71 - here in Penna. maybe it is a little different - I can get a C-clip rear change done for $150.00.

Adman, when you go to buy headers, check out the Summit brand for about $79. No need for you to spend $300 on fancy ceramic coated tubes for your 283. Put the extra $$ in something else like a manifold and cam (if needed). Follow GRN69CHV's advice. A few bolt ons and run the crud out of that great little motor. I had one many years ago also and it rapped those rpms like crazy and was fun to drive on the street. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I would get them cermaic just becuase they wouldn't have heat problems. I don't know if I am going to even change it to much, just because its supposed to be an all orginal car, save the new speakers.

I better start saving money so I can buy my next car. 69 Triple Black 396 4spd.

Had to wait until I got home to get accurate data. Your going to love this:

283, 8.5 CR, 4 Barrel
230 HP@ 4800, 300 TQ @ 3000

350. 8.5 CR, 4 Barrel
270 HP @ 4800, 360 TQ @ 3200

Trans = Powerglide 1.76 1st gear
283: 300 TQ x 1.76 Trans x 4.10 Rear = 2,164 FT#
350: 360 TQ x 1.76 Trans x 2.73 Rear = 1,729 FT#