If this isn't my first post ever, it's my first in a long, long time! I saw a couple of similar questions in my search but not this on specifically.

So I'm swapping an lt1 into my 1966 chevelle in a couple months and I've done my homework on these swaps for another car I'm working on. I'm wondering about fitting the accessorie/pulleys though; as I'm sure some of you know, there were 3 different configurations on the lt1: the 'vette, the f body and the b-body. The vette was the setup I needed for my other car (a 55 bel air) since the accessories were high and out of the way of the gigantic crossmember. But I'm not sure about how the chevelle is going to work.

So my question is will the much cheaper and more plentiful f body and/or b body lt1 accessory setup fit in my '66 without having to notch my frame OR delete the A/C compressor?

I'm putting an LT1 in my '66 as well. From what I've read, and what I saw during my mock up, the F/B body accessory drive gives you three options:

- Run an AC delete pulley
- Notch the frame
- Relocate the compressor


I'd love to have an S&P accessory setup; at close to $1,000 I just can't spring for it at this time.

Yeah, I looked over the S&P stuff and it's nice but I can get new heads and cams for that kind of cash. Speed>engine bling. I assume their setup is the onlyl good way to relocate the compressor? I'm in Texas and my car is black so the ac delete is definitely not an option.

I thankfully don't have the lt1 yet which is why I'm checking now. With my bel air it would've been cheaper to just buy a vette engine in the first place so I guess I'll narrow my search down to those.

Nice car, btw.

I am running the F body setup with stock pulley, accessories all in a 67, no problems with the frame. The AC is close but have 1/2 inch clearance. I have changed the Compressor with on problems. run this 32,00 miles and over 3 years. There are several 67s running the same setup. I know of a 69 and a 70 convertible all running the same setup. No notched frames. I don`t see a problem with a 66.

There is a relocation bracket made by Bowers Rod Shop, that will move the compressor to the drives side while continuing to use the F/B body accessory bracket. If I'm not mistaken, it's around $300.

I am running the F body setup with stock pulley, accessories all in a 67, no problems with the frame. The AC is close but have 1/2 inch clearance. I have changed the Compressor with on problems. run this 32,00 miles and over 3 years. There are several 67s running the same setup. I know of a 69 and a 70 convertible all running the same setup. No notched frames. I don`t see a problem with a 66.


Interesting. I'd heard that 68+ does not have to notch the frame, but that 66-67s had clearance issues. During my mock-up to cut the tunnel to make room for the T-56, it surely appeared as if I would have a clearance problem.

I am running the F body setup with stock pulley, accessories all in a 67, no problems with the frame. The AC is close but have 1/2 inch clearance. I have changed the Compressor with on problems. run this 32,00 miles and over 3 years. There are several 67s running the same setup. I know of a 69 and a 70 convertible all running the same setup. No notched frames. I don`t see a problem with a 66.

Really? This is encouraging. I looked over the S&P lt1 in a '78 malibu install and they had the AC clearance problem but that's obviously not the same crossmember as we have. But I know the ac compressor is problematic in a lot of old car lt1 swaps. So you haven't moved anything out with spacers and the compressor is still the big, stock f body one?

There is a relocation bracket made by Bowers Rod Shop, that will move the compressor to the drives side while continuing to use the F/B body accessory bracket. If I'm not mistaken, it's around $300.

AWESOME! This is even more encouraging. I hadn't heard of such a thing though with as common as lt1 swaps are, it was pretty surprising that S&P didn't have any competition for retrofit setups.

So it sounds like my best bet is to go ahead with the f body lt1, try to cram it in and if I have any issues, go with the Bower's bracket. Either way it will wind up cheaper the a vette or S&P setup.

Thanks a lot guys, especially b25!