Hay gang,

I have been battling with a PC virus called "Home Search Assistent" for the past week, it's killing me! We need a search tool that finds these A-holes and delivers a bomb to their place of residence.....

Anyway,

When does a stud girdle become necessary? For the engine....not the driver. :)

I have a roller cam and springs with approx 520lbs open. Heads are AFR.

I never ran one on my old roller 427 and had no problems.

But if I need one now, I suppose I better order it. The dyno is approaching....ok at a crawl with 2 broken wrists and a bad leg or so it seems.

Thanks for your insight...and Mike....might be another purchase coming.

BTW.....I hate adjusting valves with a schtud schnirdle.....it's just a pain.

Ron

Hey Ron,
Just my opinion, but with those spring pressures, a stud girdle is pretty much mandatory.
And I believe the AFR heads require a purchase directly from Air Flow. They're the only source for a "proprietary" girdle that will fit those canted/rolled exhaust valves. ;)
Do it soon...they're backordered...ask me how I know...

Don't know what parts you have but I have a similar engine/cam/springs and got the Jesel SS shaft rockers, so no need of a stud girdles. Seems of pretty high quality just assembling it. Eliminates the need for a stud girdle and guide plates.

Not going to be buying the Jessel shaft rockers.
I already about to need to go on welfare to keep up with my habit.
But thanks for the "info"

Originally posted by BillsCamino:
Hey Ron,
Just my opinion, but with those spring pressures, a stud girdle is pretty much mandatory.
And I believe the AFR heads require a purchase directly from Air Flow. They're the only source for a "proprietary" girdle that will fit those canted/rolled exhaust valves. ;)
Do it soon...they're backordered...ask me how I know... I'll bet you heard it from some shadetree engine builder up in No CA :D
graemlins/beers.gif

Originally posted by Wolfplace:
I'll bet you heard it from some shadetree engine builder up in No CA :D graemlins/beers.gif :D
I don't know any shadetree engine builders in No. CA, but I do know one or two pretty damn sharp ones! ;)

The guy that built my motor used a one piece Jomar stud girdle, valve adjustment wasnt that much more of a job with it.

Originally posted by BillsCamino:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Wolfplace:
I'll bet you heard it from some shadetree engine builder up in No CA :D graemlins/beers.gif :D
I don't know any shadetree engine builders in No. CA, but I do know one or two pretty damn sharp ones! ;) </font>[/QUOTE]jeeeez......did this quote come with Vasoline :eek: way ta go Bill.......now the whole world knows graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Originally posted by joespanova:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by BillsCamino:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Wolfplace:
I'll bet you heard it from some shadetree engine builder up in No CA :D graemlins/beers.gif :D
I don't know any shadetree engine builders in No. CA, but I do know one or two pretty damn sharp ones! ;) </font>[/QUOTE]jeeeez......did this quote come with Vasoline :eek: way ta go Bill.......now the whole world knows graemlins/thumbsup.gif </font>[/QUOTE]Thanks Bill,, but when you turn off a two lane highway & have to drive a mile or so down a dirt road with a "street sign" on a tree,,, & pull up to the sound of Wolves howling,,,, you may change your opinion,,, hell, we even got real shadetrees :D

But on a good note,, we did get indoor plumbin last year,, next year we be goin for that elektricty stuff I been hearin so much about graemlins/beers.gif

Hey Ron - If it's the bug I think your are talking about. You can be cured with something called CWShredder. It will remove it. You will have to protect yourself against future infections with something else. The MS Anti_Spyware beta tested pretty well against keeping things clean in my tests.

Troy.

461 BBC
Spirings are 205# closed
555# at .660" Lift
Solid Roller Camp

NO stud girdle, but considering it on the next rebuilt. Everything has checked out the last two times, Haven't yanked any poly locks of the studs yet either

So, has it been determined at what spring pressure (talking big block here) you need to run a stud girdle?

Currently I'm running a fairly mild ramped Isky Street roller (.602" / .646" lift) with Isky's 9005 springs (185 lb seat, 465 lb open).

I'm considering in the future switching to a more aggressive street roller with most likely more spring pressure. Just wondering if I will need to run a stud girdle.

Originally posted by 71454Chevelle:
So, has it been determined at what spring pressure (talking big block here) you need to run a stud girdle?

Currently I'm running a fairly mild ramped Isky Street roller (.602" / .646" lift) with Isky's 9005 springs (185 lb seat, 465 lb open).

I'm considering in the future switching to a more aggressive street roller with most likely more spring pressure. Just wondering if I will need to run a stud girdle. I've never seen any recommendations that states when running "x" spring pressure you need a stud girdle. Whether or not you need a stud girdle depends on a number of factors. With aluminum heads, the metal tends to expand more than cast iron. A stud girdle will help make the valve train more rigid. Another consideration is the depth of the rocker arm studs. Some aftermarket heads may not have the stud bolts tapped very deep. Running stout spring pressure on a head that has inadequate rocker stud threading can result in breaking the boss on the head where the rocker stud screws in. ARP and several other companies sell longer rocker studs and any machine shop can machine the head to accept a longer stud (assuming there is adequate material on the head). In my experience a stud girdle will reduce the frequency of valve lashing. The stud girdle clamps aroud the poly lock and provides an added measure of security (above the allen set screw) to ensure it won't back off. Be careful when purchasing a stud girdle. Many manufactures sell "universal" stud girdles designed to work on a variety of applications. The canted valve arrangement on a BBC can make fitment of a stud girdle a "challange" to say the least. Having used a couple different brands I can say with a high level of certainty that your almost always better off purchasing a stud girdle manufactured specifically for the brand/model of cylinder heads you're running. I ran a Comp 1 piece stud girdle for a couple years that was an absolute PITA to install/remove. I switched over to a girdle made by Canfield and the difference is night and day. Lastly, make sure that the stud girdle you purchase will clear the rocker arms at peak lift. Many stud girdles have a recessed area on the under side to allow additional clearance when using a higher lift cam/high ratio rocker arm.

HTH....

Thanks for the info Ken. smile.gif

I'm not running an aftermarket head. Using OEM '049 oval ports with ARP Pro Series rocker studs. Not 100% sure what cam I may switch to but leaning toward the Comp Cams XE286 solid street roller.

What would you suggest for a stud girdle that is "user friendly"?

Originally posted by 71454Chevelle:
Thanks for the info Ken. smile.gif

I'm not running an aftermarket head. Using OEM '049 oval ports with ARP Pro Series rocker studs. Not 100% sure what cam I may switch to but leaning toward the Comp Cams XE286 solid street roller.

What would you suggest for a stud girdle that is "user friendly"? Darren,

That's a great cam and you will not be dissapointed with the power your engine will make with a good set of 049 heads using that cam. Honestly, I don't think you even need to run a stud girdle with that cam and those heads. Make sure you have a quality rocker stud (which you already have) and that it is adequately threaded into the head, porperly torqued, etc. Honestly, I can't make a recommendation for a stud girdle that will work on those heads as I have no first hand experience with them (wouldn't want to steer you wrong). If you're dead set on a stud girdle I have the Comp Cams girdle that I took off of my engine. I can ship it to you to try and if you like it we could work something out. It's a quality made piece, but just didn't line up well on my Canfield heads. It's Comp part# 4021 and can be seen here:

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/CurrentCatalog/HTML/320.asp

Ken,

If I don't have to run one, I would prefer not to, for simplicity sake.

I have a Lunati billet roller cam lying around that I was considering sending to Comp Cams and having it reground to the XE286 specs.

Before you had your engine rebuilt recently, you were using the XE286 weren't you? Was it a billet core? If so, what springs were you using?
My springs will handle the lift of the 286, but I don't think they would be able to "control" the valvetrain with the aggressive lobe of the Comp. Cam

Originally posted by 71454Chevelle:
Ken,

If I don't have to run one, I would prefer not to, for simplicity sake.

I have a Lunati billet roller cam lying around that I was considering sending to Comp Cams and having it reground to the XE286 specs.

Before you had your engine rebuilt recently, you were using the XE286 weren't you? Was it a billet core? If so, what springs were you using?
My springs will handle the lift of the 286, but I don't think they would be able to "control" the valvetrain with the aggressive lobe of the Comp. Cam Yes, I used to run that stick. I used Comp Cams 953-16 springs setup up at 1.875". ~180lbs seat and ~525 open. Use a good titanium retainer to reduce the weight. Comp Cams part 732-16 is what I ran. I did not use these retainers on the new build as I had to go to an 1.650" spring. The 953 springs are 1.550". Shoot me a PM if you're interested in the retainers (perfect condition).

Ken,

I was just looking on Comp's website and the 953 spring shows different specs than what you quoted. There website shoes 162# @ 1.900" and 484# @ 1.250". is this because of the difference in installed height?

I'm not the most knowledgable person when it comes to spring specs and setting up them up so forgive me if this is a stupid question. graemlins/clonk.gif

Originally posted by 71454Chevelle:
Ken,

I was just looking on Comp's website and the 953 spring shows different specs than what you quoted. There website shoes 162# @ 1.900" and 484# @ 1.250". is this because of the difference in installed height?

I'm not the most knowledgable person when it comes to spring specs and setting up them up so forgive me if this is a stupid question. graemlins/clonk.gif There are no stupid questions smile.gif Yes, the installed height will impact the spring pressure. for example, that spring is rated at 484lbs/in. So for every .100 change in install height the spring pressure would change ~48.4lbs. I can't recall wheter my old install height was 1.875 or 1.850. 1.875 would yield ~494lbs open and 174lbs closed. 1.850" install height would yield 508lbs open and 187lbs seat. The other consideration is to allow adequate clearance for spring coil bind. I think the minimum recommended clearance is ~.060. That's one of the reasons I like those 953 springs because they have a very low coil bind. The further the spring operates from coil bind (while providing adequate spring pressure) the cooler it will operate and the longer it will last graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Hi folks,

I think after many hours of running various anti spyware programs....including CWShredder, I think I might have my pc clean. I think.

But I'm at work now, and we have good clean fast stuff.

About the stud girdle. We decided not to run one. Which is just fine with me.

Ron

Ken,

Thanks again for all the information graemlins/thumbsup.gif Very helpful.

Ron,

I apologize for treading on your thread, sorry. smile.gif

Darren,
No apology necessary!
Ron