Okay, so I know I should still probably do EOIC and make sure the lifter is on the base circle of the cam, but you have to check lash with a feeler gauge, right? I have one, but am wondering how I am to know when I've actually reached lash or not. Will the feeler gauge still be barely able to slide around under the rocker or is it supposed to be very tight, or..? I have some full roller rockers, Comp Pro Magnums.

Also the book I'm using is wanting me to force oil into my lifters. Can't remember if it said that is for hydraulic or solid, or both. Is this really reccomended? Or is the same thing as wanting to soak lifters in oil and that it is kind of an 'old school' way of thinking?

Thanks..

I'm no expert on these matters but my dad used to run solid cams "back in the day", so when I put a solid cam in my 454 he told me that he'd always set his such that there was noticable drag on the feeler gauge...The way he said it, if you're not creasing the feeler gauge, you're OK. My cam is supposed to be set at .018/.020, so I carry gauges .018, .019, .020, and .021 when setting the vavles. I set the intakes such that a .019 won't quite go in (you'd have to force it in), but the .018 will still go. There's noticable drag on the feeler gauge. Same with the exhaust, except that it's set to where the .021 won't quite go. I think I've got the same rockers as you, mine are the Comp steel roller rockers, think they're Pro-mags but not sure. Setting them is VERY sensitive, 1/4 turn could make .003 or .004".

Like I said, I'm no expert here, but I don't think it makes any difference with solid lifters as far as soaking lifters in oil, etc, etc. I think this relates only to hyraulic lifters where the lifter is "pumped up" with oil. The way I understand it a solid lifter is just that, direct solid connection from cam lobe to pushrod.

I was using a fish scale but didn't care much for it, so I started using an inch-pound torque wrench. Anyhow details, insert the feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve stem, and then tighten the posi lock with a torque wrench, I like 10 inch pounds.

The feelers should be real tight when the lash is reached. I always, ( as recommended to me here) use one size bigger feeler which should not slip in to check. Its the " no-go" guage. The "go" feeler barely sqeaks in there.

If using posi-locks the last .001" or so is done by a final torque on the posi-lock body once the set screw is snugged down. You'll get the feel for it after a while. Don;t freak out if it takes you longer than 1/2 hr the first few times.

Definitly get some go- no go feeler gauges. They are a huge time saver for me. They are just a std feeler gauge with a .001 increase in size a little way up so you tighten until you can get the correct size in but can't push in past size increase. Much easier.
Jeff

Taylor,

When I set mine, I put my index finger on the roller bearing that contacts the valve stem.
As I adjust, I slide the feeler gauge in and out
keeping my finger on the bearing. I adjust just until my finger won't stop the bearing from turning as I slide the feeler gauge in and out.
At this point I lock them down and check to see it didn't get any tighter. My Cam calls for me to lash my solid roller at .032 for both intake and exhaust. Since I have aluminum heads, I lash them .004 tighter at .028 When said and done, I like the .028 to slide in and make the bearing turn as I described, and a .029 will not go.

Hope this helps graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Gaz