I've been searching on here trying to see what you guys have done for a hydraulic throwout bearing and master set up for a TKO600 and not really finding the info I am looking for.

A little history:
I checked out a couple of retro kits and found them to be pricey, so... I went about this a little differently, I purchased a used F*rd version TKO600. (cuz the mustang guys seem to go thru these like diapers!)
I have purchased a lakewood bell 15030 to adapt this and purchased some refubished GM pedals (my velle is currently an auto). Trying to do this swap for as little as possible.

I have been collecting the parts for awhile and getting ready to install this in my 71 Chevelle, just need to figure out what I am going to actuate the clutch with. Any ideas?

What Hydraulic parts did you use? (I know my throw out will be different cuz the bearing retainer is bigger than the GM version)
I am curently looking at the RAM and McLeod throw out bearing.

Does anybody have any pics of the master installed on the firewall?

How do I get the master rod geometry correct? angle it needs to be at?

Do I have to modify my factory clutch pedal?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

You mean I am the first one to put hydraulic throwout in?????:D
Somebody has had to have done this I just need some info and pics would be great!
Thanks

dont buy the mcleod yet. i spoke with them and they are a few months out on a new bearing. currently they supply you one based on the dimension you give them. this current bearing cannot be shimmed. the next bearing will be more universal and be able to be shimmed. this should make it more affordable.

as far as the rest, youre the guinea pig. i plan to locate the master so it is hidden. this will require a significant amount of fab work. whether the stock clutch pedal attachment point is ok, i dont know. you need a 6:1 ratio, so youll have to measure. the angle should be parallel to the pedal travel, or close to it. if its not, your ratio wont be constant and it will make the master want to pivot.

Not exactly on hydraulic clutch topic... but my understanding was the main difference between the Ford and GM versions of the TKO was the input shaft is a different length. Have you accounted for that difference?

I have looked at this somewhat and my thinking is an external is an easier deal than an internal hydraulic TO bearing. There are a number of external slave cylinder options out there. One thing to factor in is how much throw you really need. The 11" clutch used on a BBC needs more throw than about anything else out there.

There are a couple of examples and pictures floating around out there. I presume you have already done a search?

I run a hydraulic setup my parts came in a kit from Keisler engineering so I`m not sure what type of throwout bearing it is but the master cylinder is a 3/4" bore Willwood it is mounted to an adapter from Keisler that hold it a the correct angle but it must be mounted in line with the linkage. My first attemp was slightly out of alingment, i thought it would be OK, ruined the master in 8 months, make sure its in alingment. Mounted mine under brake booster out of sight with the reservoir mounted on one of the bolts that hold the brake master cylinder to the booster.

Not in my 66Elky----------gonna be mechanical
But--
In my 59 I used a bellhousing & slave cylinder from an 87 Chev pu and a master from an 88 Chev pu.
Also had the trans bearing retainer machined to accept an adaptor ring so the trans would fit the bigger bore bellhousing properly.

FYI---bearing retainer is a different size on GM vs Ford

This was a common conversion over here when converting cars to RHD
The clutch fork is on the left so instead of a complicated linkage, Hydraulics were used
This company may have what you need
http://www.dellowauto.com.au/main.html

Not exactly on hydraulic clutch topic... but my understanding was the main difference between the Ford and GM versions of the TKO was the input shaft is a different length. Have you accounted for that difference?

I have looked at this somewhat and my thinking is an external is an easier deal than an internal hydraulic TO bearing. There are a number of external slave cylinder options out there. One thing to factor in is how much throw you really need. The 11" clutch used on a BBC needs more throw than about anything else out there.

There are a couple of examples and pictures floating around out there. I presume you have already done a search?

Yes you are correct it is longer and the pilot diameter and bearing retainer are also lager than the chevy version. I have taken diferences into acount that is why I bought the lakewood 15030 bell housing, it is made to mate the ford version tko to a chevy block.

I have looked at some of the external mount slaves and it just look as clean it looks kinda of like an after thought JMOP any way I am open to all ideas so keep them coming! Pics if anybody has them.

Here is one of my favorite external units:

http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/images/pn314.jpg

Here is one of my favorite external units:

http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/images/pn314.jpg
Who makes this or do you have a part number? Thanks

Here you go:

http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=66_398

I run a hydraulic setup my parts came in a kit from Keisler engineering so I`m not sure what type of throwout bearing it is but the master cylinder is a 3/4" bore Willwood it is mounted to an adapter from Keisler that hold it a the correct angle but it must be mounted in line with the linkage. My first attemp was slightly out of alingment, i thought it would be OK, ruined the master in 8 months, make sure its in alingment. Mounted mine under brake booster out of sight with the reservoir mounted on one of the bolts that hold the brake master cylinder to the booster.

Could you please tell me more about how your swap went with the Keisler kit?
Did you have to modify your pedals? add any positive stops to keep from over extending the master?
I called them yesterday and they said the bearing was the same for both the chevy and ford versions. I thought the bearing had to ride on the bearing retainer or am I mistaken and only the fork style bearing needs to ride on the retainer to keep it straight and the hydraulic does not?
It would be nice to get a kit if everything works properly.
Thanks

Could you please tell me more about how your swap went with the Keisler kit?
Did you have to modify your pedals? add any positive stops to keep from over extending the master?
I called them yesterday and they said the bearing was the same for both the chevy and ford versions. I thought the bearing had to ride on the bearing retainer or am I mistaken and only the fork style bearing needs to ride on the retainer to keep it straight and the hydraulic does not?
It would be nice to get a kit if everything works properly.
Thanks


Our kit is designed for a TKO it is an internal bearing that rides on a custom retainer we make. The master has a Billet mount to bolt directly around the factory pedal push rod hole. This is a bolt in for your application and requires no mods to your pedals.

Gene

keislergene

Thanks for the response I had call and talked to somebody at your shop last week and as of now looks like that is probably the way I will go when I get around to it.
Thanks

I run a hydraulic setup my parts came in a kit from Keisler engineering so I`m not sure what type of throwout bearing it is but the master cylinder is a 3/4" bore Willwood it is mounted to an adapter from Keisler that hold it a the correct angle but it must be mounted in line with the linkage. My first attemp was slightly out of alingment, i thought it would be OK, ruined the master in 8 months, make sure its in alingment. Mounted mine under brake booster out of sight with the reservoir mounted on one of the bolts that hold the brake master cylinder to the booster.

I think kessler would be the people to talk to, i bought a kit to convert my 4x4 from them and it works real good, but that was for a sm465,
i also looked into a early 90s one ton trucks ( they old body style) they use a external that should bolt into ur aplication, the clutch rod pushes into the master cylinder, and the slave goes direcly in place of the clutch adustment linkage to depress the fork, the only reason I didnt go that route was the body flex would disingage or engadge the clutch when i was 4 wheeling.
Dusty