Want to keep the drums on the back, convert to discs up front...I know it's been tackled here before...can someone point me in the direction of how it will need to be done? I have the drop spindles, calipers, rotors, bearings, hoses, and bolts for the front, just not sure on the Master Cylinder, brake booster, proportioning valve, ect.

Thanks!

by the way the parts I have so far are the Derek budget build for the front.....

for your booster i would go with a 9 or 11"
proportioning valve you will need to replace with a disc to drum setup the old one will not work the same goes for your master cylinder
go to www.piratejack.net

you may find more information

will the booster, cylinder, and prop valve listed in the Derek build work for front disc / rear drum or not?

thanks

send me the link to derek build

Sent it in PM....here it is also FYI


http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115940

yes it will work. i dont see a problem with it.Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. does what it says. it alows you to adjust the pressure from the rear and front brakes. or you can get a brass proportioning valve it preset for disc/drum

i hope i helped
good luck

thanks we have a few nice weather days coming so I will be tackling it the next couple days and this weekend.

Thanks again for the help!!!!

I have a power drum/drum set up right now. I also want to switch just the fronts. Do i need to get a new power booster, or will mine work?

your old booster will work fine. unless you want a new one it will give you a clean look under the hood

One more silly question. I have everything set up but the MBM (Piratejack) preset disc/drum brass proportioning valve. Do I need to replace the existing distribution block or can I just put the valve on in front of it.

BTW I tried the conversion without a prop valve and the front discs worked great, but the rears had little (to no) fluid on bleeding and little (to no) brake power after bleeding.

So my question is how does adding another valve (which I would guess would restrict flow) in the line make the rears work when they don't now (or do I have another problem?). I'm sure it's in the design but I would like to know the engineering behind it.

Thanks!

I belive the dist. block has a plunger for the brake warning light, and it could probably be stuck and restrict the flow. You can actually remove it and use your new valve (assuming that it's a std combination valve configuration like this (http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/part.asp?pid=8383N&c=0&e=0&cat=3&hid=318AC52436&trk=)) as a combined valve and distribution block. This will make for a cleaner look, and hopefully take care of the bleeding problem.

I ordered the one that mounts up on the master so I could pull the old dist. block and run the lines up the the new prop valve (not sure how difficult that would be???). Or I could replace it and put the prop valve in front of it....any opinions?

Thanks!

I ordered the one that mounts up on the master so I could pull the old dist. block and run the lines up the the new prop valve (not sure how difficult that would be???).

If you do that, you'll have to extend the existing lines from the frame to the valve. I'd say it's easier to remove the dist. block, and put the combo valve in it's place on the frame. If you have the type of combo valve I linked to, you should be able to hook it up to the existing lines to the wheels, then get new lines from the m/c to the frame. Not sure if you can find pre-made lines that fit directly for this type of installation though, you may have to fab them yourself or have someone do it for you.

that's my plan (for now at least...lol)!

I'm now to that same general point in my install. I've gotten everything in and my kit came with the proportioning valve that is supposed to mount under the m/c. I don't know what I'm supposed to do next. Do i need to get new lines bent that will fit the new valve? Will the new valve just be able to go right in where the existing junction box is?

This is on a 68 malibu that had drum/drum and now will have disc/drum. The instructions that came with my kit have been really clear up to this point and, unfortunately, this is the part i was confused about to begin with!

You can make up your own lines or they make disc brake line conversion kits. I bought one of the conversion line kits from Inline Tube for my chevelle and it fit my disc conversion pretty well (combination valve under the MC). Ground Up also has a line conversion kit, but you would want to call and make sure it will fit your conversion...

The only problem I had with the line kit I bought was it was pre-bent for an 11" booster. With a 9" booster you had to add a couple bends to reach the combination valve.

Here is the link to the Ground Up conversion kit... (http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=chevellecamino&Product_Code=C68DCKIT&Category_Code=BRAKESDISCCONVERSION)