Jegs 3" exhaust, fitt good or bad? Anybody know? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Jegs 3" exhaust, fitt good or bad? Anybody know?


TC
Oct 11th, 04, 12:47 PM
Has anyone installed this system on a 69 Chevelle?
If so how did it fitt, what mufflers did you use?
Was it complete?
Thanks T.C.

jakeshoe
Oct 11th, 04, 1:07 PM
Fits good, will need to be trimmed but the bends work out great. I used DynoMax Ultra-Flo's 3" offset in, center out.

mr 4 speed
Oct 11th, 04, 2:19 PM
Jake,any issues with hooking up the tailpipes with the center outlets?

TC
Oct 11th, 04, 6:33 PM
That was going to be my question also, as the system calls for offset in, offset out.
Any reason for using the center out?
Thanks T.C.

jakeshoe
Oct 12th, 04, 2:20 AM
No issues hooking it up.
The way it is sectioned off you have some room for pivoting to meet the muffler...

Hell, I got pics, Coming Up..

jakeshoe
Oct 12th, 04, 2:22 AM
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Oct/200410117404252514306497.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Oct/200410118228399309690463.jpg

jakeshoe
Oct 12th, 04, 2:36 AM
The pics aren't very close up, but when the pipes come off the muffler, they go up, and make the 180* bend to go over the axles tubes. JUST after they make the 180, they are expanded for the tailpipes to slip into.

If you look real close you can see this area.
This allows you some twist in that relatively short piece of pipe from the mufflers to the tailpipes.

Jeg's recommended the mufflers I used...
17221's IIRC.

Also there is some play at each of the connections giving some wiggle room.

I had to run to work early today so here's the whole lowdown on the fit.
You'll without a doubt not get a better fitting pre-bent system...

Everything is setup a little on the long side so about every joint will need cutting.
That said, go beg, borrow, buy, steal, or rent a chop saw if you do not have one.
I started out doing it with a cut off tool.. About 2 pieces of pipe and I was ready to ante up the $22 for a cut off saw rental smile.gif LOL

The tailpipes are WAY long, prolly to fit a Elky.

My best piece of advice specific to this setup is:
The two secondary headpipes. Thes are the pieces that actually go into the mufflers.
If you look at the pic, there is a primary piece coming off the header, then the secondary pieces.

Do you cutting on these off the MUFFLER end to begin with.
You'll notice they have two 45* bends in close together. You'll need these to be towards the rear for max floorpan clearance. They just go by the pan where a rear passenger's feet are to go into the muffler.

I measured twice, cut once, and made a trip to the muffler shop for a ~6" piece of tubing with one expanded end... after I started really getting it to fit tight smile.gif

It is one of those things that you overlook until the whole side is mocked up (you have to make some cuts to get any kind of mock up)

I welded my entire system up except the joint I first talked about going into the tailpipes. I left htis clamped so I can remove the entire exhaust without cutting it apart.

Next tip is that you will need to cut the tailpipes and the 180* pipes they slip into to get the 180*'s to drop away from the floorpan enough to keep it from rubbing.

And it gets real close to the stock fuel line location coming out of the tank.

Other than that,
Have fun. It's a good 10-12 hr job and a little bit nasty and itchy ;)

GRN69CHV
Oct 12th, 04, 5:49 AM
I can see the benefit of the center out. I use center out Dynomax Turbos and the tailpipe comes real tight to the frame. Offset/offset would not work.

Jakeshoe, I see you have one of my other favorite cars in the driveway - 351 or 428?

TC
Oct 12th, 04, 7:58 AM
Thanks for the replys:
I have moved my shocks in 1" at the bottom for wheel clearance.
Do you think there will be any clearance problems with the 3" pipe?
Also is the pipe being close to the fuel line due to the center out muffler or is it just the way it is?
thanks T.C.

mr 4 speed
Oct 12th, 04, 8:59 AM
Jake,any pics of the system installed?

jakeshoe
Oct 12th, 04, 12:41 PM
GRN69CHV,
It is an original 351W, 4 speed car. The original motor is now in storage. I built a 393 stroker fro it with Dart heads, etc.. Thing pulls like a BBC redface.gif

TC,
I don't think the shocks being moved will cause you a problem. I'll look today and see.

It is close to the fule line because the fule line runs from the center of the car, to the pass side, along the trunkpan, above and to the rear of the rear diff. So no matter where you come out of the muffler with the pipe, if you go over the rear with a 3" pipe, it's gonna be close.


Chris,
No pics. I may try to get some quick ones today for ya'll. By the time I got done, I was ready to get out from under the car...

GRN69CHV
Oct 12th, 04, 12:53 PM
Jakeshoe,

I bet that sucker does run. I really like my '69 Chevy, but as an atypical motorhead, if it has oil in it, eats gasoline and tires and spews out carbon monoxide by the boatloads, I love em all.

eduardo69chevelle
Oct 12th, 04, 1:05 PM
I used the Jeg's 3" system that included the mufflers on my 69, and was dissapointed with the amount of effort it took, although it ended up good. Jake is about right on the 10 hours install time - seems too long to me.

The price was right at $169 plus shipping. My biggest problems were with the tailpipes which were 1 piece - not like what Jake is describing. I had to cut them and rotate after the 180 and butt-weld back together. Would have been a good idea to get them expanded now that he mentions it.

Also, I had a little problem with clearance on the shock/spring towers. Final remedy was to "gently" flatten one side about 1/2" with a mallet. It is invisible and can't affect flow much. I would probably do it again, but better and quicker. Price makes it an easy decision.

Ed