I had to get a new centerlink from Classic Perf Products. The geometry is different than the one I had but I think it will be ok if I shim the motor mounts. I have urethane mounts and they have a separate "shim plate" that goes between the mount & block. If I had another pair of them that would do the trick. I don't see them sold separately; just as part of the mount kit.

Anybody ever do this or get these separately?

Brian - won't shimming the motor throw off your drivline angle? I bought a new one from southwest speed last month that fits fine - (after they re-reamed the tie rod end holes a little deeper)

Brian - won't shimming the motor throw off your drivline angle? I bought a new one from southwest speed last month that fits fine - (after they re-reamed the tie rod end holes a little deeper)

Mike, Do you think a 1/4" shim would do that? Don't forget, I have a 502 which has a different pan. You had to send it back for reaming?

I have an 800 steering box which may have an effect. One of the problems is the tie rod eye to eye on CPP's web site was stated at 14.5" which is what my old one had. The new one is more like 14.2 which brings the tie rods closer to the pan.

Nothing is ever easy.

Ok - I know what your talking about now - My inner tie rod ends do come near the pan, but .3" of difference - that's just over 1/8" further away from the pan on each side - is that enough?

Not sure. Motor is out right now so I think it will be very close. I dimpled the pan where it was touching on the drivers side but with the new one, it's anybody's guess.

I just thought a shim would give more margin.

You know that I had this same problem with my '69 replacement. The problem for me was not the drag-link but the supplied 90° zerk fittings. The original drag-link had much lower profile 90° zerks than the ones that are commonly available nowdays. My solution has been to use straight fittings and just turn the wheel to gain access.

You know that I had this same problem with my '69 replacement. The problem for me was not the drag-link but the supplied 90° zerk fittings. The original drag-link had much lower profile 90° zerks than the ones that are commonly available nowdays. My solution has been to use straight fittings and just turn the wheel to gain access.

The new centerlink from CPP HAS NO GREASE FITTINGS. Another disappointment.

A friend of mine (on this board) just put a 509 in his 72 SS. He had the same issues. I shot the idea at him about using some washers to shim the motor mounts.......thats all it took.

Brian - I just looked up the one I bought 14.38 center to center, that's 1/8" difference from the cpp one - 1/16" per side. With grease fittings - likely too late now.

http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=925

if your using a Moroso oil pan, depending on the pan #, they used to have a mistake in their cat. about fit, never corrected it
now i am going from memory, so i may be a little off, but when i had my 540 (stroked 502)
i used a pan, i think the last 2 #'s were 13, said a body chassis and would fit stroker-after the pan had interference problems, i called Moroso, the guy told me to get the other pan, i believe last 2 digits were 11, and yes it would fit stroker-they did an exchange on the pan, problem solved
i would have to do some research on the pan #'s, but maybe 20411/20413? again im old and have CRS (you know what that is) cant remember sh$#@#t
now i wish it was that easy for my a body gen. 3 conversion

A friend of mine (on this board) just put a 509 in his 72 SS. He had the same issues. I shot the idea at him about using some washers to shim the motor mounts.......thats all it took.

You think that's strong enough? I may have to send this thing back & get the on Mike got from Southwest because it also differs in relation to the crossmember (it sticks up higher, closer to the pan). I am going to drop the motor in & see what things look like & take it from there.

BTW, it's a GMPP oil pan for Chevelles with 502.

You think that's strong enough? I may have to send this thing back & get the on Mike got from Southwest because it also differs in relation to the crossmember (it sticks up higher, closer to the pan). I am going to drop the motor in & see what things look like & take it from there.

BTW, it's a GMPP oil pan for Chevelles with 502.

Car ran 11.20's........so I think its ok.

Car ran 11.20's........so I think its ok.

Just curious: How thick or how many washers did he use. I'm thinking I may need a 1/4".

Just curious: How thick or how many washers did he use. I'm thinking I may need a 1/4".

I don't think it took much. He just used 3 washers on each side between the block and mount (right where the bolts go through).