Well, i got the degree wheel kit the other day. After messing around with it for quite a while, it was quite apparent that it was going to be VERY difficult to get anything that you would know was an accurate reading with it. The magnetic base is enourmous so can only be stuck to the side of the head, but contains a very weak magnet so it will not hold its place very well. The bushings for the wheel were not correct, so you couldn't move the wheel on the crank without loosening the bolt, then it is impossible to guarantee the wheel doesn't move when you tighten the bolt again. Maybe it would work well if the engine was out of the car and you could turn the engine by the other end of the crank, but the only place I could turn it was by the damper bolt. Even then, the magnetic base for the dial indicator would still be a problem that would require you to bolt something onto the head for it to stick to. After a couple of hours of fighting with it, I said the heck with it.

But, The cam was off one tooth retarded from the "straight up" position. I just intalled it now lined up for the 4* advance position and threw it back together. That made a world of a difference. Starts easy now. Sounds like a different engien all together. It will idle at 750rpm with 8* advanced ignition timing. I set it at 11* which is giving me 21* with vac advance. Its making a LOT more power. too bad I didn't get the degree wheel working because I really wanted to know where it was, and where it is now.