Thought I'd put these pics together in one place in case someone would like a quick reference on a few BBC questions that come up once in a while such as hiw to identify thumb rods, steel versus cast cranks, and 4-bolt/2-bolt identification and also a location that the factory TRW 11-1 closed chamber pistons may hit a standard oval port head, close to the exhaust valve which is a auick 5 minute clearance job.

I also added a pic on why they claim a LS-6(L2465 and L2349F) piston won't work in a GEN 5/6 block, which is just a skirt issue that can be trimmed. Which is covered on the final two pictures.

Sorry, the statement on the standard rod I didn't word smith it, I'll correct it later.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/Thumbrods-stdrods.jpg

General rule of thumb info on identifying possible 4-bolt blocks. Remember, not 100% but a good rule of thumb.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/bbc4-bolt.jpg


This is an easy way to tell steel from cast while the pan is on. These same casting indentifiers are used inside the pan, on the crank, in several spots.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/identifycranks.jpg


On the issue of using LS-6 pistons on oval port heads, not always will they interfere here but very often they will.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/headride2.jpg


On the skirt issue for use in gen 5-and 6 BB's. Three factory pistons are said to not clear the throws on gen 5-6 cranks. The info below will allow you to use them with a little modification. You can see the L2307 and L2399 have the proper skirt design to use with the Gen 5-6 cranks.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/Pistondiagram2.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/Pistondiagram3.jpg

Hey Doc,

thanks for taking time to write up and post it.

on the interference deal with the piston dome, would it be easier to relieve the piston a little?

I'll have to play with this as it doesn't seem to be loading the pics all the way.

Darryl, awesome pics!!

Maybe you could do a "how to port your heads" series one of these days.

Hey Doc,

thanks for taking time to write up and post it.

on the interference deal with the piston dome, would it be easier to relieve the piston a little?

Actually, I automatically hit that spot if I am using any of these pistons. Although it's not much, I don't want to alter the balance of the pistons.

Darryl, I merged the two threads and deleted the resulting duplicate post. Let me know if you see any problems.

Thanks Doc....! ! ! I saved every one. Info was great. Again Thanks ! !

stuck to the top. Thanks Doc, we should have had this up here years ago. Thanks for taking time to get the pics and write up the article.

Here's a few links to quick videos I did on removing soft plugs and oil galley plugs. I'll find time later to make better videos with more detail but this should help for those that could use the info now.

The soft plugs, I use a set of channel locks because the angle and thinner design works really well for grabbing them instead of vise grips. When you smack the one side of the handle, while knocking them out, the force actually gets tighter and keeps a very good hold of the plugs. Vise grips have a tentency to slip off because the thicker design and the way the pliers are designed will actually lose grip when applying force to the hand grips.

http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/?action=view&current=MVISoftplug2.flv

On oil galley plugs, I use a long wrench as a cheater bar for leverage but never apply so much as it will strip out the plug. The wrench actually has some flex to it and just keeps contant pressure on the plug while you apply the impact to the plug. One the plugs moves the first little bit, it's free and no additional impact should be required.
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/?action=view&current=MVIOilgalley1.flv

The second video showing the lifter valley plugs actually had the air valve turmed off to the compressor tank so the impact was with what was left in the air line. It wasn't much so you can tell it doesn't take much. If you don't have a air impact, use a ball peen hammer and strike it in the same location you would with a impact. It's easier to aim with the air impact but I've removed 100's with just the ball peen.
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/?action=view&current=MVIOilgalley2.flv

Nice work Darryl! I have all those pics saved too and have used them before to help others, of course giving you full credit. Looks like you have some amateur video producing experience eh? ;)

Very cool Doc, :thumbsup:
Great info & it does work almost all the time but I have had plugs that would not budge with the impact, especially the ones in the back of a small block & the one under the left head in the deck so I just turn them red & take a candle to them but you do need to have an acetylene setup to get them hot enough.
Done correctly they unscrew almost by hand.

I have always used a blunt round nose peening tool in the air gun when I use it
What are you using for a tool there? Really hard to tell in the video.

stuck to the top. Thanks Doc, we should have had this up here years ago. Thanks for taking time to get the pics and write up the article.Ditto! This is the way to take things to the next level on TC!

Everyone should eventually have a pair of Channel Locks in their tool box but if you don't, I've used a pry bar and "leveraged" the freeze plugs out. That was taught to me by a shop teacher back in high school:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/11A35TP8Q1L._AA200_.jpg

that's what I call a heel bar and they're a handy tool to have around. I have a Snap-On set that are like that, money well spent.

I have the "dog bone" rod, is that ok for occasional 5,000 rpm blasts?:confused:
These are from a GEN V.

5000 rpm "blasts?"
IMHO no issue 6000 tops

Hey Doc- Awsome work on the post...:thumbsup:

that's what I call a heel bar and they're a handy tool to have around. I have a Snap-On set that are like that, money well spent.That's a good name for it because you set the "heel" against the freeze plug "boss" and roll it by pulling the long end. The hook end of the "heel" is hooked to the cup part of the freeze plug and, voila, out the plug comes as you roll the "heel".

I have learned more in the last few months from the Doc:thumbsup:
Its nice only living 20 min from his house (shop)

Thanks Darryl:yes:

where on the big block are the casting numbers? where is a good place to identify them as if it is a 4 bolt or a 2 bolt main? im going to look a truck just for the 454 but i need to know if it is a 4 bolt main? thank! great pics & info btw!!!!!:hurray: :D :beers:

MORTEC has a nice casting number listing.

As for 2 bolt to 4 bolt ID, you cannot be 100% sure without the pan off. Unless it's a GEn V or VI which are all 4 bolts. The GEN IV info listed earlier on this topic for 2-bolt-4-bolt is the best info you can use for identifying a GEN IV with either.

that's what I call a heel bar and they're a handy tool to have around. I have a Snap-On set that are like that, money well spent.


That tool is called a "Lady Slipper" The name is self explanitory.
Bill

fyi-- i went and looked at a 454 today in a 75 1 ton truck, it had the bigger pipe plug in the front hole & the adapter in the rear hole, i finally convinced the guy to let me drain the oil and use a bore scope and look at the main caps --- 2 bolt main--- :( im not dismissing the above theory, but the only one true way to tell -- is to look!!

fyi-- i went and looked at a 454 today in a 75 1 ton truck, it had the bigger pipe plug in the front hole & the adapter in the rear hole, i finally convinced the guy to let me drain the oil and use a bore scope and look at the main caps --- 2 bolt main--- :( im not dismissing the above theory, but the only one true way to tell -- is to look!!

That is why there is a statement above that it isn't 100% and the only way to know for sure is to look. The one I've seen and now the one you just came across are the only two i know of that fall out of the norm but it is a rule-of -thumb, 99% of the time.
I should have been clearer on the statement and I see it is hard to catch, inbetween the pictures.

fyi-- i went and looked at a 454 today in a 75 1 ton truck, it had the bigger pipe plug in the front hole & the adapter in the rear hole, i finally convinced the guy to let me drain the oil and use a bore scope and look at the main caps --- 2 bolt main--- :( im not dismissing the above theory, but the only one true way to tell -- is to look!!

I think FRYNTYR has been sniffing too much cleaning solvents again...:clonk:

no no no!!! im not dismissing any theorys about the id of the 4 bolt main block by fryntyr, im just saying YOU have to double check for yourself!!! he did a great job on the above post!

Thanks, Kenny, I would revise the block verbage if i could edit but it wouldn't let me. I was wel aware it wasn't 100% accurate from my own expierence and thought I put enough info but I wasn't clear enough. If Al can allow me to revise that post I can clean it up a little.
I usually use the plug size to identify a better chance that it is a 4-bolt. But lke both you and I have found, the only way to be 100% certain is check.

Sure there is!! All tall decker's are 4-bolt mained, right??

He, He!!

As for 2- vs 4-bolt mains, heck, why worry about if if a studded 2-bolt main block will go up to and some above 650hp fine!

And don't forget about turning a 2-bolt main block using it's stock main caps into a 4-bolt! Stock 2-main bolts and then machine the block and caps for two smaller outer bolts fine! Not quite as good as stock 4-bolt, but better than stock 2-bolt and probably as good as 2-bolt studs imho...

Otherwise, bite the bullet and go w/ an aftermarket 4-bolt splayed main cap kit.

But if this is needed, I would buy and aftermarket block and be done w/ it! Think a 588" standard deck height engine here!!

pdq67

thanks for the post. i always wanted to know how to tell the difference between a cast iron and steel crank shaft. I bought a steel crank and a friend of mine said it was cast iron. I asked him how can you tell the difference, his reply was "I just can".

Pick it up using a loop of baling wire and tap it w/ a small hammer and it will ring like a bell if it is forged! Cast cranks kinda go, "thud/dong"......

That and a forged crank if still stock finished will have a WIDE parting line whereas a cast cranks parting line will be just a thin line. Easy to spot imho..

pdq67

And that forging weights about 1/2 as much again as the cast one. Cast cranks spin up faster and my choice for anything under 500Hp.

Want to pump-up that old truck 454 you got off Craigslist for a few hundred?

The difference between the oval port (sometimes called large oval port) heads from 1965 until the late 70s and the truck Peanut Port 236 intake port....late 70s and up
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/3027000-3027999/3027956_48_full.jpg

Closed chamber heads starting in later 1967 or there about had a slightly larger chamber. Volume up from 95/97cc to 101cc. Shown is the 1968 #063 head
To the right is the large open chamber of the 236 Peanut Port head....122cc sometimes!
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/3027000-3027999/3027956_50_full.jpg

Taking the 236 heads off your old truck engine and going to 063s will move you from 7.9-8.1:1 to 8.7-8.8:1 CR. Shim head gaskets (Mr Gasket #1302) will get you the rest of the way to 9:1. Earlier heads from 65-e67 put you at 9.1:1cr or there about....

For reference, if nothing else...
Here is FRYNTYR/Darryl's pic of the 1969-? #148 casting, BrettD85's engine. This came on some 2V and fleet vehicles. Larger 112cc chamber reduced CR from 10.25 to 9:1 so these vehicles could run on Regular grade....
396 guys, Use these heads on a 60s shortblock to tame the CR for street use....rather than going all the way to 781s or 049 and 119-122cc chamber
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/headride2.jpg

If your old truck engine comes with an oil pan.....
Earlier trucks have a passenger car pan that looks like this:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/3027000-3027999/3027956_40_full.jpg
This pan will fit your Chevelle or Elky. If it is longer in the front of the sump, you will have to buy another pan. Better to know this now then find out during the middle of the night when you are trying to drop the engine into your car....
And for sure, the Corvette oil pan with the trap door does not fit a Chevelle. Ask me how I know this. Painful lesson for me and my pal Tom in 1980 trying to stuff a crate LS-7 454 into his 1970 SS Chevelle...

Here is a picture of a DIMPLE rod, factory high performance unit.
Note the dimple up toward the small end. Also note the big end is in the dogbone shape. Different than the THUMB rods seen in the earliest posts:
http://i20.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/01/da/f82c_1.JPG

Very informative post, thanks! I was going to post a question on the crankshaft casting marks but didn't need to, I just found the answer in your post!

Thanks for posting.
Tim

Just an FYI on the 2nd & 3rd pictures of the oil galley holes- my XAA suffix LS6 has the small holes & it is definitely a 4 bolt. Every XAA suffix block I've seen has the small holes.

Tommy

Hey Doc,

thanks for taking time to write up and post it.

on the interference deal with the piston dome, would it be easier to relieve the piston a little?

Usually a engine's rotating assembly has been balanced already and the short block assembled when checking for piston-to-CC clearance. It only takes 5 minutes to hit the spot on the heads that may touch the piston. This is way quicker and easier to me plus technically you're doing a mini unshrouding of the exhasut valve.

An easy way to check piston to CC clearance is to set the heads on the engine, with out head gaskets, and rotate the engine over. Watch the heads as you rotate it over and if it contacts you will feel it while turning and the head should lift slightly off the deck.

Pull the heads back off and there will be small light colored scuffs on the combustion chamber where the piston had touched. Now just take a die grinder and take out the material required, plus a little extra, and you're ready to go. If it clears without the head gasket on while performing this, it will have plenty of clearance once the head gasket has been added.

(If only using a thin steel shim head gasket, I would verify further because .018 gasket is alot difference than a .039 when it comes to clearance)

I usually put a couple head bolts in and turn them in just a few rounds to keep the head from falling off if the pistons end up contacting so much it pushes the head off the dowls. (rare and it would be on much larger pistons).

Here is a picture of a DIMPLE rod, factory high performance unit.
Note the dimple up toward the small end. Also note the big end is in the dogbone shape. Different than the THUMB rods seen in the earliest posts:
http://i20.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/01/da/f82c_1.JPG

How do I get the picture? Doesn't open. Phil

Hmmmm, where I copied the dimple rod picture from must have deleted the picture......
I'll look for another picture
I asked DOC aka FRYNTYR to post a new picture

DImple rod compared to a "truck" or "thumb" rod

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/rodsbbcdimple.jpg


Saw someone ask about what the car pan looks like so here's a pic of the "car" pan and "truck" pan. The truck pan will work with rear stear 67-69 camaros and 68-74 novas.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/BBCoilpans.jpg

Started getting weights on a few BBC common pistons, I'll apdate as I get more or if you have weights, PM me and I'll add them to this Post. These are general and will vary from set to set but shouldn't by very much

L2240F std
L2240F .030
L2240F .060

L2242F STD
L2242F .030
L2242F .060

L2300F STD
L2300F .030 Piston/808 Grams + 150/gram pin = 958 Grams (checked three sets, within 10 grams)
L2300F .060

L2268F STD Piston/702 Grams + 150/gram pin = 852 grams
L2268F .030
L2268F .060 Piston/712 Grams + 150 gram pin = 862 grams

L2349F

L2465F STD
L2465F .030
L2465F .060 Piston/678 grams + 150 gram pin = 828 Grams

L2308F .030 Piston/716 grams + 144 gram pin = 870 Grams

L2307F

Saw someone ask about what the car pan looks like so here's a pic of the "car" pan and "truck" pan. The truck pan will work with rear stear 67-69 camaros and 68-74 novas.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/BBCoilpans.jpg[/QUOTE]

The "truck" pan pictured will also work in Impalas.

Tall deck-Short deck comparison for those that want to know a quick and easy way to tell the difference on just a visual.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/shortdeck.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g274/roundyround/Tech/talldeck.jpg

So whats stronger the thumb rods or dimples?

I guess DAVE will have to smack you up the side of the head with each type to see which is stronger Paul! Then we'll know!

All BBC rods are forged
Dimple rods come in 3/8 and later 7/16 rod bolt configurations
The dimple rods have a better steel, forget the number, and better bolts.
The Thumb rods have more beef
For what you are doing, either will work fine....if you put ARP fasteners in the Thumb rods

So whats stronger the thumb rods or dimples?

Late model dimple rods........

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/rodent4/rod.jpg

I don't think the 6 or 7 qt big truck pan will fit my 1st Gen!

And my '75 454 P/U engine had a 4 qt car type pan on it so fit fine.

pdq67

I don't think the 6 or 7 qt big truck pan will fit my 1st Gen!
And my '75 454 P/U engine had a 4 qt car type pan on it so fit fine.
pdq67
I just tried to put a 6qt pan ib my 69 and it would not fit. Had to buy a 4qt.

The 6&7qt pans have a 11-12 inch sump while the 4qt has a 6 or 7 inch sump.

thanks for the info

DP,

Thanks for looking in here.....some good info indeed.

OK, still more and more people here on TC asking basic questions about BBCs.
Pics are from my BBC parts collection

Cylinder head 101:
Chamber configurations:

Here is a comparison shot of a rather ugly mid 1970s #781 open chamber which are 118cc volume nominal (with a lot of variation in size) (left side of the pic) and an early 1967 #390 closed chamber on 98cc (usually very close to this volume)

http://images44.fotki.com/v1448/photos/1/1002019/4059581/dad007-vi.jpg

Here is a shot of a July 1968 #063 late closed chamber/semi-open chamber of 101cc nominal volume next to a late 1970s 236 Peanut Port Open Chamber head.
For a comparison of Oval Port vs Peanut Port intake runner size and shape, see post #31.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/3027000-3027999/3027956_50_full.jpg

Here is a set of mid 1970s #049 open chamber heads fitted with the larger 2.19/1.88" valves, pic also shows the oval intake port

http://images44.fotki.com/v1419/photos/1/1002019/4059581/100_1467-vi.jpg

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee344/sixfo4me/thcarrier.jpg

what size fittings for this location on a 1970 402 2 bolt? ive tried a bunch of fittings and cant seem to find the right one!

Great thread! :thumbsup:

OK, still more and more people here on TC asking basic questions about BBCs.
Pics are from my BBC parts collection

Cylinder head 101:
Chamber configurations:

Here is a comparison shot of a rather ugly mid 1970s #781 open chamber which are 118cc volume nominal (with a lot of variation in size) (left side of the pic) and an early 1967 #390 closed chamber on 98cc (usually very close to this volume)

http://images44.fotki.com/v1448/photos/1/1002019/4059581/dad007-vi.jpg

Here is a shot of a July 1968 #063 late closed chamber/semi-open chamber of 101cc nominal volume next to a late 1970s 236 Peanut Port Open Chamber head.
For a comparison of Oval Port vs Peanut Port intake runner size and shape, see post #31.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/3027000-3027999/3027956_50_full.jpg

Here is a set of mid 1970s #049 open chamber heads fitted with the larger 2.19/1.88" valves, pic also shows the oval intake port

http://images44.fotki.com/v1419/photos/1/1002019/4059581/100_1467-vi.jpg

Here are a couple pictures of my 781's that are fresh out of the machine shop (nice and clean) if they can be of any benefit to you!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v625/YenkoChevelle69/HPIM0510.jpg
Nice clear casting numbers if anyone needs to know what to look for.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v625/YenkoChevelle69/HPIM0509.jpg
Here they are after cleanup with new oversized valves.

what is the usual cost of machining 781's?

I had valves, seals, and springs done for 500.

Since there is no "sticky" for the BBC head porting threads, do you all mind if I post a few in here? :) :


http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238682

This one has pics from a few members to show the porting done and Eric (echristie) posts his flow #'s: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272938

Jay (jbird) has posted some great pics and shared some great info in several threads including flow #'s after porting. Here are a couple of examples: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188622

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279670

Here's Darren's (71454Chevelle) flow #'s after porting: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125898



Let's see if we can move the knowledge forward.

No, problem, That's what this sticky is for

Since there is no "sticky" for the BBC head porting threads, do you all mind if I post a few in here? :) :


http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238682

This one has pics from a few members to show the porting done and Eric (echristie) posts his flow #'s: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272938

Jay (jbird) has posted some great pics and shared some great info in several threads including flow #'s after porting. Here are a couple of examples: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188622

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279670

Here's Darren's (71454Chevelle) flow #'s after porting: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125898



Let's see if we can move the knowledge forward.

Since there is no "sticky" for the BBC head porting threads, do you all mind if I post a few in here? :) :


http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238682

This one has pics from a few members to show the porting done and Eric (echristie) posts his flow #'s: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272938

Jay (jbird) has posted some great pics and shared some great info in several threads including flow #'s after porting. Here are a couple of examples: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188622

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279670

Here's Darren's (71454Chevelle) flow #'s after porting: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125898



Let's see if we can move the knowledge forward.Here's another pretty good thread that Jay (jbird) recently posted more porting pics in. (BBC Vortec heads): http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279670

Sorry for some of the pictures not showing. My better have orginized my photo bucket and that changed the location og the pics. Maybe the moderators can get with me so we can edit them. It won't let me edit the posts right now.

what no vid links?

Most of the pictures don't show up on this sticky. Is it just my computer or are they gone gone gone

Most of the pictures don't show up on this sticky. Is it just my computer or are they gone gone gone

Links and pics need revised. I need to see if Al will work with me on this. My better half reorginized my photobucket so the links don't work.

Maybe I'll Quote the original and re input the links then Al can delete to original.

Links and pics need revised. I need to see if Al will work with me on this. My better half reorginized my photobucket so the links don't work.

Maybe I'll Quote the original and re input the links then Al can delete to original.

Appreciate it Doc.

fixed the links on the first page or two and deleted Doc's later posts, no longer needed.

Thanks again for taking time to post this info, yer mah heero.

Since there is no "sticky" for the BBC head porting threads, do you all mind if I post a few in here? :) :


http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238682

This one has pics from a few members to show the porting done and Eric (echristie) posts his flow #'s: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272938

Jay (jbird) has posted some great pics and shared some great info in several threads including flow #'s after porting. Here are a couple of examples: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188622

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279670

Here's Darren's (71454Chevelle) flow #'s after porting: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125898



Let's see if we can move the knowledge forward.

Here's another pretty good thread that Jay (jbird) recently posted more porting pics in. (BBC Vortec heads): http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279670Gene (427L88) has some heads that he's working on and is getting some pretty good tips and pics from Jay and a few others here: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288032

Doc, I watched your videos on removing soft plugs and oil gallery plugs. Very nice demo. So last night I stripped this old greasy big block down. I removed all oil plugs except for the big one at the filter. That one is fighting me a bit. All soft plugs are out with ease thanks to the demo. But geeez are the 781's heavy son of a guns, wow. No wonder they put these things in trucks :D
I will fight with that plug tonight again. I tried your method and also heating the block but it did not want to move.
Thanks for all the info in this thread :thumbsup:

The first post pictures seem to not be working still?

Pics still not showing up.
Great thread if all the pictures were still there.

yes, could sure use the pictures and links to the video demos as i am having to rebuild my engine and doing it for the first time.

For freeze plugs.... drive one side (edge) in the block....and the other side will 90% of the time flip out.... Vise grip the out freeze plug edge or lip with the curved side of the vise grips on the block, and they'll roll right out using the curved heel of the vise grips....

LOTS of good stuff in this sticky. I just wish all of the pictures were there.

is there any chance the pictures and videos can be updated on this sticky post ?

Discussion and pics on Big Block Chevy Series vs. Parallel cooling: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=291251

hi guys/gals. my first post on here. was wondering if someone could host the first few images of this thread again.

im looking into building a 454 for my impala and this thread seems really helpful. but the pics have dissappeared :(

thanks

edit* oh my bad. it seems this q has been asked b4 :s

If anyone wants to know what a thumb rod looks like! Thumb rod on the right.

It's called a thumb rod because your thumb can be placed in the radius at the lower end of the rod.

Hopefully we'll be able to get the pics re-re-added soon.

Hi : What part # on ur hooker sup. Comps ? Are they the 2 pc. Or ? How was the fit ?
Thanks, don

So this may be a little off topic but I have a 72 SS chevelle with a 454 block in it but it isnt the original block, how can I tell what year it is and what its putting out? I want to make it a resto mod but can I up the HP without knowing? doen it matter?