I have a lead on a 98 LS1 supposedly under 50k on the clock, with 4l60e tranny

No computer or harness.

What all do I need to make this work?

I'm thinking:

custom computer/harness $6-700?
headers
oil pan
electric fuel pump
ls6 intake
cam
basic parts for a teardown and reassemle to make sure it looks good inside?

any help would be appreciated

fuel lines (return and pressure,there are different setups for this)
speedo to wrok with tranny VSS
stock F-body oil pan can be reused
will need aftermarket swap headers or build off the LS1 exhaust manifolds..

I was under the impression the stock pan wont clear

A stock pan will not clear it has to be modified or you can use a LH8 pan from BRp Hotrods which is way cheaper. Also GMPP sells a harness and computer for swaps, although I don't know how much $ it is. Good Luck with the swap.

The stock pan will in fact clear. I recommend you check out LS1tech in the conversions and hybrids section do a search for chevelle and a-body swaps. I highly recommend you check out this particular thread: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=510709.

why did he swap gas tanks?

why did he swap gas tanks?


larger capacity, electric fuel pump is in the tank, $$ cheaper than aftermarket.

The stock pan will in fact clear. I recommend you check out LS1tech in the conversions and hybrids section do a search for chevelle and a-body swaps. I highly recommend you check out this particular thread: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=510709.

BCzee and Stealth71 have posted alot of info on this forum and LS1tech. Hooker, BRP and Edelbrock all have packages to put a LS1 in the Chevelle if you don't want to do your own fab work. Speartech seems to be the more favored company to get a harness from.

why did he swap gas tanks?

The Imapala tank is setup for fuel injection and being plastic maybe safer.

The Imapala tank is setup for fuel injection and being plastic maybe safer.

I got a sump off of summit, used a in-line pump on my El Camino - works like a champ and isn't too loud.
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u241/oobus12/elcaminosept2407006.jpg

ok, thanks guys

what kind of fab work? i was under the impression relocating the A/C compressor and motor mounts were about all that was needed as far as "fit"

For a brain, I'd suggest the XFI from fuel air spark tech. They do make a wireing harness for these as well. Lost of tunability.:cool: Take a look. They also make some goodies for the ls series engines:beers:

Good luck and hope to see pics during the swap.

I'd like to do the same with my 69. But going to run a Holley MPI kit with the XFI computer.

well I just got home with it, its complete minus computer/harness and coil packs it seems

all the belt drive system is there, starter as well

I believe my dad has a set of coil packs for a 5.3 vortec truck, are these the same or compatible?

In the May 08 issue of car craft is a how-to article about putting a gen III into a 64-72 a-body. You may find some of their tips useful. They also have a list of sources for parts you may want/need to purchase for the swap.

In the May 08 issue of car craft is a how-to article about putting a gen III into a 64-72 a-body. You may find some of their tips useful. They also have a list of sources for parts you may want/need to purchase for the swap.


if you could let me check your list and compare it to mine I'd appreciate it

thunderstruck507@hotmail.com

thanks!

stock pan "MAY" clear with out modding it. most guys either mod the crossmember, or the pan. look to the aftermarket. autokraft makes an awesome pan, but its expensive. it does offer more capacity and the use of the stock filter. all other aftermarket pans that i have found use a remote filter. although some may like that, i dont.

Tim

stock pan "MAY" clear with out modding it. most guys either mod the crossmember, or the pan. look to the aftermarket. autokraft makes an awesome pan, but its expensive. it does offer more capacity and the use of the stock filter. all other aftermarket pans that i have found use a remote filter. although some may like that, i dont.

Tim


stock LS1 oil pan fits just fine, you guys need to do your homework

http://home.cfl.rr.com/thehouchins/LS1%20install5.jpg

Stock pan will fit. Check out my swap on LS1tech (link in my sig.) Hopefully I should be drivable this month.

http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02866.JPG

http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02867.JPG

what did you guys do to make it work?

I used a BRP style mount adapter and redrilled the holes for the frame mounts moving them back. I ran into tie rod/oil pan clearance issues, which are documented in my swap thread so I had to make a 1/4" spacer under each frame mount.

i would use all stock ignition peices, and get any ls1 computer, doesnt matter.
send it out to madz28 or pcmforless, and have them tune it to your needs. all you do is give them your vin, and whats done to the motor, and for 125 bucks, you have a nice tune. and any other tune after that is only 50 bucks.
you can do a painless harness for, not sure of cost, but if you can score a stock harness, might beable to make it work, for almost no money and some work.

i say do the swap. im looking for an 6.0 to swap into my 94 t/a.


aaron

what stock pan? a fbody pan? sorry didnt read the whole thing.

i think motor mounts would play alot with where the pan sits.

aaron

Any pics with brackets mounted and accessories?

wht64 - ive done my homework, as have you. one thing you missed though. i said that you would have to mod the pan or the crossmember. looks like you modded that crossmember by welding on some new mounts.

also, you cant purchase your mounts and your motor is sitting higher than would be necessary with an aftermarket pan. will it work? yes.... but i could make a front sump pan fit by raising the motor 10 inches as well.

point being, there are many ways to do it. yours looks awesome, but for a no headache approach look to the aftermarket and use someones mounts, with their pan, with the headers they were designed for and you wont have any issues.

ive already got mine painted, so i dont want to go back and cut and grind it all up. if i had changed my mind on motors sooner, i may be doing the same thing you did.

btw, which headers are you usings? how much ground clearance do you have? which sits lower, the cross or the collector?

Tim

wht64 - ive done my homework, as have you. one thing you missed though. i said that you would have to mod the pan or the crossmember. looks like you modded that crossmember by welding on some new mounts.

swap cross member mods entail clearancin for oil pan,which is not required... I chose to make my mounts as apposed to buyin the aftermarket swap kits.....

also, you cant purchase your mounts and your motor is sitting higher than would be necessary with an aftermarket pan. will it work? yes.... but i could make a front sump pan fit by raising the motor 10 inches as well.

my mounts are modified f-body mounts, that usually come with the pullout engine when purchased, so yes you can buy them...it's not that high it's the angle of the pic...motor is not raised 10 inches

point being, there are many ways to do it. yours looks awesome, but for a no headache approach look to the aftermarket and use someones mounts, with their pan, with the headers they were designed for and you wont have any issues.

even afternarket swap kits allow the use of stock f-body oil pans



btw, which headers are you usings? how much ground clearance do you have? which sits lower, the cross or the collector?

Tim

Edelbrock swap headers .....i dont know they havent been released yet

thanks for the clarification. point still being, work was needed to make it fit. whether you cut the cross or welded to it, you still worked on it.

let me know if someone makes swap kits that use the stock f-body pan without mods. all the kits i found require the pan to be cut, which in turn gives you less capacity.

please let me know how those headers fit when your done. that is the one oddball with the aftermarket.

Tim

what stock pan? a fbody pan? sorry didnt read the whole thing.

i think motor mounts would play alot with where the pan sits.

aaron

Sorry. F-Body pan.

I personally didn't want to mod the oil pan or have it hanging below the crossmember. I know GM spent a lot of time and money designing the oil system. S&P hasn't done much more than making it fit and I have heard of oiling problems with their kits.

http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03032.JPG

Aftermarket pans are a highly viable option. However if you move the motor far enough forward to require an aftermarket pan you might as well shell out some more money for an aftermarket accessory drive setup or at least an alternator relocation because its likely going to hit the power steering box(look at stealth71's photo above^). Point being you can end up spending alot of unnecessary money and being on a limited budget like I am I found ways to save money where I could. It is very simple to make your own or buy BRP style adapters(which are in fact marketed to work with the stock f-body pan). Yes they will more than likely require you to unbolt the factory frame stands and relocate them and if somebody finds that a bit too much of a challenge then this swap may not be for them. To say that it is required to use an aftermarket pan is far from the truth. In fact there are least 3 documented instances of people using the stock f-body pan in this thread and at least 3 more on ls1tech.

pete - if someone has a fool proof method of doing it im all in. i have no problem moving stuff/fabbing brackets, but my time is money, and if it costs me the same once my time is factored in to go aftermarket and to fab up my own stuff, its just a toss up. you are right that this swap is not for the guy that wants any easy job.

As far as fool proof goes I think the method stealth71 has documented will be your best shot. The f-body pan is a bit of a tight squeeze to get the engine in at least on my 67 but I believe their is a bit more room on the 70 and up chevelles. Once the engine is in you have a good but of room to move it around. Brp mounts, stock f-body pan, and tall and narrow sbc engine mounts and hooker headers(the new edelbrock headers look to be even better but fitment isn't proven) seem to be the proven formula. BRP is marketing a kit now that uses the oil pan for the H3's which gives you even more room but it also hangs below the crossmember and for me at least thats not acceptable. BRP also claims with their new kit you can use a T-56 without cutting the tunnel but I will believe that when I see it.

Sorry. F-Body pan.

I personally didn't want to mod the oil pan or have it hanging below the crossmember. I know GM spent a lot of time and money designing the oil system. S&P hasn't done much more than making it fit and I have heard of oiling problems with their kits.

http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03032.JPG

you got a closer pic of your alternator/gearbox area ? is that a stock gearbox ?

Yes they will more than likely require you to unbolt the factory frame stands and relocate them and if somebody finds that a bit too much of a challenge then this swap may not be for them. To say that it is required to use an aftermarket pan is far from the truth. In fact there are least 3 documented instances of people using the stock f-body pan in this thread and at least 3 more on ls1tech.

Pete THANK YOU for saying that, you said it MUCH NICER than I would have !!:hurray:

nice pics guys...

let me clarify, i wasnt the one that said a aftermarket pan was "required" and i didnt read of anyone else saying it either. i said that a stock pan "MAY" fit. my suggestion of the aftermarket stuff was just a different alternative. it took me 3 solid days of looking before i found the autokraft stuff. when i finally found it, i thought it was bitchin because you didnt lose capacity and it used a stock filter. everything else in the aftermarket requires a remote filter, something i didnt want to deal with.

also, of the three cases on here, who didnt have some sort of problems to work through? even with stealths mounts, he still had to add spacers. thats great for everyone else now that we know, but i bet stealth didnt know until he dropped it in. you guys have proved the point that with a little work, it will fit; something no one has ever denied. i still need to weigh my options and see which way im going to go.

btw... classic gary - if that was directed at me, let me hear how you would have said it. ;)

I think every car is a bit of a different fit and the key is to unbolt the frame mounts and position the engine exactly where it needs to be. Personally I believe this should be done no matter what mounts and oil pan you are using. I did not require shimming up the motor any. The lower you keep it the less chance you will have with having to modify the tranny tunnel unless you are going with a t56 like stealth in which case you are gonna have to modify it no matter way. Well I am still waiting on brp to prove me otherwise on this fact and I hope he does.

Oh and another thing. Most have found that you need the height of the tall and narrow sbc mounts which also require the tall and narrow frame mounts. You can get away with the short and wide mounts but you will likely have to gain some height from somewhere else.

that is very good info on the mounts. i agree that there is no way to fit a t56 in and keep proper driveline angle. im putting a tko600 in so the tunnel is going to get cut along with the driveshaft tunnel so i can dial in the angle as needed.

One thing about the mounts - tall and narrow vs. short and wide. When paired together THEY ARE EXACTLY THE SAME HEIGHT. I learned this after having both sets in my hand, thinking that tall and narrow would solve my oil pan to inner tie rod clearance issues.

Well I now have both Tall/Narrow and Short/Wide frame mounts and motor mounts. The interesting thing is they are both the same height when used as a pair. So getting the new ones hasn't helped much. I think I'm going to end up keeping the short/wide mounts I was using and add the preload plates and a 1/4" spacer between the frame mount and frame.

Some pics of the mounts:
http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02806.JPG

http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02807.JPG

http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02809.JPG

http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02810.JPG

http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02811.JPG

what would you guys recommend as the easiest and most cost effective way of safely doing a FI fuel system

external pump, dont let your tank go below 1/2 tank or Tanks Inc EFI setup....

Nice catch stealth Although I am not sure if that also applies to the weird frame mounts that I had but he shouldn't have those on his 71. So 430 Hp disregard what I said about the short and wide vs. tall and narrow. As far as the fuel system goes I am doing a tanksinc internal sump setup but the b-body tank is a viable option as well it just requires cutting of the trunk pan.

do you have a link to the internal sump setup they sell? i could not find it on their website

do you have a link to the internal sump setup they sell? i could not find it on their website

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/home_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm

http://www.tanksinc.com/cartimages/prd_sm_84.jpg

could you mix the taller frame mount (s/w) with the tall engine mount (t/w)?

You can and that would gain you some height but the cross section on the "mouth" of the mount (for lack of a better term) or part the goes over the frame mount is smaller on the tall and narrow than on the short and wide.

that is basically what i did, only i used a "tall" Moroso solid motor mount as the frame base and a tall rubber mount at the engine. didn't need any extra spacers. cut a piece of tubing as a "spreader" between the "ears" were the bolt goes thru to keep the mounts from collapsing when you tighten the bolt. cheap, and movable, so as to position the engine/trans. where it locates best.

has anyone found any other viable options for the fuel setup?

it looks like I could prolly make something similar to the tanks inc setup on my own though, but it might not be worth the hassle

I found this but it was for a camaro:

I simply adapted the LS1 bucket system to work. What I did was shorten the stock LS1 bucket as much as possible, down to the height of the pump. I tossed the whole top half of the system in the trash, minus the springs. Then I cut a hole in the top of my stock 73 tank, and dropped the bucket in. I then got a third gen sending unit, tweaked it to fit into the 73 tank, tweaked the float/sending unit to read correctly, and ran a fuel injection hose from the fuel pump to the 3rd gen supply line. The height of the pump and rubber line poses a problem with kinking as it exits the pump as it is right ont the top of the tank. I set the pump in the bucket slightly crooked and then inserted a spring into the fuel injection hose to prevent kinking. Conveniantly, one of the springs you saved from the 4th gen fuel pump assembly fits perfectly in a 3/8 hose. I then ran a return line from the 3rd gen unit back into the bucket assembly. Went ahead and made a cover for the top of the tank and sealed it down. Solves every issue I was concerned with. Works just like a factory setup, only it was $40 bucks for hose and clamps and the 3rd gen sending unit.

well motor is in for a test fit, but the tranny won't fit (4l60e)

if I move the engine forward the gearbox will hit the power steering pump and the oil pan will hit the crossmember

I can grind down at least 1/8" on the crossmember but I don't know how much that will help...it seems as if the rear of the engine needs to point down a bit

any ideas?

only thing I've thought of is replacing body bushings there to add a hair more space

on my 64 with an LS2 a 4L80E fits without mods, with the ATS mounts and an additional 1.5" of setback. It would even be easier in the stock location. Who's mounts are you using?

Jody

They are BRP style mounts, 1inch set back on the plates, but I also have the frame mounts loose so I can move it further back.

One thing to keep in mind is driveline angles. They are the most important when getting everything to fit. If you move the tailshaft down to far you might get into angle problems. Also make sure your tie rods fit under the oil pan when the steering is turned lock to lock. Are you using a stock trans crossmember?

call street and performance in mena arkansas thay can give you anything you need.they are supposed to be the experts on ls motors in older cars

I will have to build a crossmember it looks like, the header collectors are running right into the old one

I think the other issues are mostly sorted out, it was a matter of bolting the tranny in first and adjusting to fit that way.

I found this but it was for a camaro:

I simply adapted the LS1 bucket system to work. What I did was shorten the stock LS1 bucket as much as possible, down to the height of the pump. I tossed the whole top half of the system in the trash, minus the springs. Then I cut a hole in the top of my stock 73 tank, and dropped the bucket in. I then got a third gen sending unit, tweaked it to fit into the 73 tank, tweaked the float/sending unit to read correctly, and ran a fuel injection hose from the fuel pump to the 3rd gen supply line. The height of the pump and rubber line poses a problem with kinking as it exits the pump as it is right ont the top of the tank. I set the pump in the bucket slightly crooked and then inserted a spring into the fuel injection hose to prevent kinking. Conveniantly, one of the springs you saved from the 4th gen fuel pump assembly fits perfectly in a 3/8 hose. I then ran a return line from the 3rd gen unit back into the bucket assembly. Went ahead and made a cover for the top of the tank and sealed it down. Solves every issue I was concerned with. Works just like a factory setup, only it was $40 bucks for hose and clamps and the 3rd gen sending unit.

Here is similiar for an A-body:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192262&highlight=MU-2021

I decided I'm going to cut the tank open and weld in a small box/sump and run an external pump

Be careful if it's a used tank. Might want to take it to be cleaned before cutting and welding.

I ran mixtures or super clean and water through it off and on for 3 days. Already cut it open while it was filled with water.

She's clean as a whistle inside. Its going to be sitting in the hot sun for about a week on top of that, plenty of time to vent and evaporate.

I even found my build sheet on top of the tank.

That was pretty cool.

I have the Rick's Hot Rods fuel cell made for the LS1 swap into our cars. I'm no longer doing the swap, but I went ahead and installed the cell. It goes in the stock location, has an internal pump and -6 lines (you can have bigger installed by them if need be). It was not cheap at all, but the fit and finish are perfect.

Yeah I just did not have the funds available and even if I did I would never spend near $6-1k for a fuel tank when I don't care what it looks like as long as it performs and I can make something that works for $20 and the price of a fuel pump (right under $200)

and update...

I ordered a lh8 oil pan, traded for vette accessories, and the engine will be going in the car next week for the last time. If I get my water pump in time I will be getting it tuned as well. I can't wait.

LH8 pan is GREAT, soooo much more clearance.

I recommend this highly for anyone doing the swap. Only hangs an inch lower too. Best part is I sold my fbody pan for $200. This is the best $50 part I've ever bought for my car I think.

I could not get the fbody pan to fit the way I wanted it so I went with the moroso pan and it sits just right.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/s2000z/DSCN0380.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/s2000z/DSCN0379.jpg

HOORAY! Engine is in for good now!

Wiring is 99% done (need to run wire for TCC switch on brake pedal and 1 wire for fuel pump, and ground the engine harness)

Connect 2 places of fuel line

Put the radiator and accessories back in

Hopefully everything will get finished up tomorrow!

Oh and I pulled my A/C, so I mounted the computer inside the doghouse, works awesome and its out of sight. At least until I can afford a clean looking delete plate for A/C. Keeps the ECM out of the weather and the blower fan actually might help keep it cooler.

I to am fitting LS2 /4l60e into 1967 chevelle down here in australia i got s&p engine mounts and sump sent over and got a tank from rock valley tanks, hope to drop it into frame this weekend and bolt headers from hooker on to see if this fits and works ,has anyone else used this combo of parts and does it work. also has car craft done the follow up feature on their el camino swap yet? which issue, we are behind getting this magazine over here.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v477/thunderstruck507/ls1parts032.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v477/thunderstruck507/PICT1203.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v477/thunderstruck507/IMG_0119.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v477/thunderstruck507/IMG_0125.jpg

connect fuel lines
connect transmission cooler lines
connect radiator hoses
hook up power steering hoses
put fans back in
wire torque converter switch to brake pedal
connect hot wires, key on wires, and ground everything
run main power to fuse block
run wire from relay to fuel pump
have exhaust welded back together
have computer tuned

then I'll be a happy camper *crosses fingers for nothing bad like a spun bearing*

oh and by the way, I'm ditching the chrome radiator guard for a black one since I think it distracts too much being the only chrome under the hood

more pics to come, and video if all goes well! wish me luck, I'm gonna need it!

BTW: for those who are wondering and didn't notice...the computer box is inside the a/c housing, the fuses and fuel pump relay are mounted to the evaporator line bracket, ;) I think it looks awesomely stealth, if i decide to add a/c later I'll figure it out again, but losing more weight was appealing...especially since I haven't used a/c in the car for 4 years

Looking good you should have her fired up in no time. I know it was a great feeling for me the first time I took it around the block. Now I just can't wait to get the engine broken in so I can really feel the power.

Wow. Almost there. If I can get a crap load of stuff done tonight/tomorrow I might get to fire it Thursday night. Fingers crossed. Good luck.

D'oh. Multi post.

thanks guys! and good luck on your start as well stealth!

I just pray the rest of the engine is as ok as it seems, after pulling a cam with a dead lobe and all. The cylinder walls still had hone marks even...we did replace all the lifters with GM performance ones just to be safe.

fuel lines connected
transmission cooler lines connected
intake ducting mocked (needs a bracket and IAT sensor put in)
exhaust (with cutouts) welded together (only $40! sweet)
radiator/fans back in

i think i have a bad pcm, sending it off for a check and also a mail order tune so i can drive this thing and get the bugs worked out

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v477/thunderstruck507/ls1b039.jpg

Good Luck. I got mine started the other night and things went pretty well. Hopefully it will go the same for you.

does anyone have the part number for the LH 8 pan?? I have anumber of 12614821 I think it is a kit but I also need a pick up I believe?? I found the pan on gmparts direct for $100. I tried to set my 5.3 in the other day but the truck pan was too deep and would wedge itself to the cross member and tranny lodge itself to firewall. so new pan is in order and see what happens from there??

the kit I bought had everything, even the bolts, it was $250

Good Luck. I got mine started the other night and things went pretty well. Hopefully it will go the same for you.

tried starting tonight, it kinda stumbled around and "ran" (more like dieseling type running) with lots of smoke and popping noise, occasional backfires through the pipes

you have anything like that? any ideas?

also i can't get the relay to turn on the fuel pump...it did once the first time but I had a leak so i turned it off and fixed that, now the pump won't come on that way, I had to jump power to it to make sure it was working

I would double check the wiring on the coil packs and make sure all the sensors are plugged in good. As far as the fuel pump relay working all you can do is double check that wiring as well. For what its worth I used the fuel pump signal wire on mine and it has always worked great from the beginning.

ok so the car starts, but only with the throttle at over half down, then it runs nice and smooth but its quiet, if i let off the gas it backfires BAD then tries to die until I get into it again

have intermittent miss on the 2 middle coil packs on the pass side, moved coil pack to the other side and the problem followed, but new coil packs did nothing to change that

also backfires above 3500 rpm or so

not throwing me any codes at all, not even misfires, timing is 35-30 depending on throttle pos, o2 are working but pass side is reading lower than driver

I'm out of ideas here, but I'm afraid to try driving it at all

Hmm that is odd that its not throwing any codes...Did you try doing a search for similar problems on ls1tech? If you are running open headers i would recommend disconnecting the 02 sensors by the way.

exhaust is done and cutouts are closed

there are several people having similar problems but none of us have the solution yet, I did the crank sensor relearn tonight and that didn't help much...but I did get it to rev to 6200 during the process

it has to be a problem in the coil pack harness or with the crank sensor...at least I would think...it's something to do with the firing, the coils have a delay between cranking and firing (found by hooking up a timing light to each plug to check for a light) and 2 are intermittently not getting fire at all causing the popping which is burning the fuel from the pipes in those cylinders

Seems odd that it wouldn't be giving a random misfire code or something though. I doubt this is your issue, but I remember reading about one guy who installed a forged ls1 into his car and it was having similar issues. Turned out the engine builder bent the reluctor wheel a bit when installing the crank and that was the problem.

double check your grounds, engine to chassis, engine to body....

will do but I'm pretty sure they're good unless I may be missing 1, I have 3 on the back of the head and 1 smaller one that I'm grounding to the battery direct

the crank was never pulled but the cam was swapped, heads changed, new pcm, new harness, new lifters, pushrods, oil pump, ect

I'm about to finish up the wiring in a more permanent fashion and try to drive it I think

Looks great what about a/c I went with a kit from BRP i have got started setting it in but not sure if i made the right move yet. they say that a/c will fit. http://ssl.hostingplatform.com/30729.30364/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?=PRScreenOD&Store_Code=BHR&Product_Code=LCMMCM&Category_Code=1ABCGLCECSH

I havent used a/c in 4 years, so I just took it all out and mounted the pcm inside the doghouse box...2 birds with 1 stone

thunder you would want a/c if you lived in NC trust me on that!

it gets into the 100+ and humid as hell here too, trust me...but I'm used to it, I just limit driving in the heat of the afternoon, and when I do all 4 windows go down and the car actually gets decent inside...

I hear ya on the dog days of summer here in Oklahoma. It gets rough 100+ and 90%+ humidity sucks, but you just gotta roll down the windows and deal with it.

same her or more at times and i am not going to drive my car and not enjoy it so i choose to run a/c at the high cost! :)

Don't get me wrong I plan on installing AC eventually it is just behind a few other things on the car as far as the list of priorities goes.

Just another update since I drove home yesterday (around 250 miles) at 70-80 mph, played with a buddy on the interstate (65-110), got on it WOT 3-4 more times playing, and passed at least 6 cars WOT, and drove it hard on all the straights in the curvy area of the Ouchita Mountains

Still managed to pull out right at 24mpg. I'm pleasantly surprised. Best I could get with the old 355 was 23mpg and that was babying it a lot more than I did this trip and having about 50 less rwhp.

Dyno numbers show me at 325hp/350tq to the ground, has more left in it with a good tune and even more with a ls6 intake.

Sounds like it's doing good. I know it feels great to get out and drive it.

Thunderstruck, how did you resolve the problem with the backfiring? What was it?

It was a bad coil pack harness, still haven't stripped it to see where, but swapping on a new set of coils from the junkyard fixed her right up for $40.

I just found out with the snap on scanner that I have only been getting 92% throttle, so I fixed that and it seems to drive a bit better as far as downshifting and stuff, also seems to run a lot better now that it's not throwing a throttle position sensor code. Dunno what was wrong...all I did was unplug it and plug it back up and clear the codes. bent the gas pedal rod to clear up the not getting WOT problem...

Bad part is I broke a traction bar during a violent 2-1 downshift on some rough (aka good for hooking) asphalt

How did the traction bar break? Crack? actually tear apart?
Any pictures?
Ron

they are lakewood slapper style...mounts to the rear lower control arm bolt and has a snubber in front that contacts the frame under load, there is a small adjustable rod that runs from a higher spot towards the end of the bar with the snubber, the part of that rod that the bolt goes through broke...the piece is still attached to the car but the bar is dangling down on the traction bar

i dunno what they are called but it will just need to be replaced...it's kinda like a tie rod end, it screws into the upper bar and since there is one on each end it allows you to shorten and lengthen to adjust the traction bar part until it contacts the frame

i had some preload on mine which is likely the cause...just too much stress