I have never run NOS before and I have a Super Power Shot and need to know a few things. What should the bottle pressure be? What makes it fluctuate?

I know that you should retard your timing between 2-4 degrees and use a cooler plug and run on the rich side and not the lean side. What other tips do you have for a rookie?

I will be running a electric fuel pump, where do you mount it for best performance? I know that most everyone mounts by the tank but do you have to mount it even or below the tank?

The most important questions is once I have it set up is there a way to check to see if it is working correctly and what should the plugs look like with NOS?

Can you run 110 octane with the NOS? Thanks JOHN

Couple of quick answers.

1) Temp has most to do with pressure. Needs to be about 85 out to see 950 psi with a full bottle. Second and very importand is how full the bottle is. You may see 950 but when you activate the nitrous the pressure will drop a lot. I always try to have no less than half the bottle full.

2)2 degrees per 50 HP is safe. I always first ask what is your total timing. If it is 30 or 40 that can make a dif what you do on the spray.

3)A most important thing is setting your FLOWING fuel pressure. Put your plate over a bucket, or at least the fuel jet you will run in a jet adapter, and activate the fuel side of the nitrous. With the pump on and solenoid open, set your fuel pressure to the recommended setting.

4) To check it, with the nitrous bottle OFF, activate the nitrous at WOT, it should bog rich. Don't do for more than a second or two.

5) Sure you can run 110, better if you do.

6) To check plugs, do a WOT shutoff. Pull ALL 8, not 2 or 4. See if there is inconsistency. Most kits out of the box are very rich and it should show.


Be careful doing any of the above, you can get hurt with fuel and nitrous.

Are you saying that the pressure you would like to have is 950 or ??? My Total timing is 38. How much of a difference will there be in the fuel pressure from being held by the solenoid then flowing through the solenoid? Explain checking with the Bottle off I dont understand? When you say to be careful what could happen if not watching closely? With NOS will your plug have the normal color or will they look different than normal? Thanks JOHN

Ditto what Doug said. if you yank 2*/50 HP, & make sure that your fuel pressure is right, you should be OK. try to put it as close to what it says in the kit as possible. I made a simple flow tool to do mine, here is a link to what it looks like. http://www.r71camaro.homestead.com/MiscTuningStuff.html

once you get a baseline you can mess with the fuel pressure & timing to get more HP out of it. make SMALL changes @ a time & for sure only one change @ a time. & CHECK THE PLUGS. once you yank all 8 3 or 4 times you are going to know what the motor is going to do & which plugs are fat & which are lean & you can decide what to do from there.

http://www.speedshop.org/store/scripts/default.asp these folks make a really nice bottle heater that runs on a pressure switch. it turns the heater on @ low presures & off @ the setpoint & keeps it right where you want it (~900 lbs).

one other suggestion, tune with fuel pressure Not with N2O pressure.

HTH's

Bob

PS, whats up Doug? I was talking about you the other day (ALL good, smile.gif )& was wondering how you are doing?

Originally posted by jpextreme:
Are you saying that the pressure you would like to have is 950 or ??? My Total timing is 38. How much of a difference will there be in the fuel pressure from being held by the solenoid then flowing through the solenoid? Explain checking with the Bottle off I dont understand? When you say to be careful what could happen if not watching closely? With NOS will your plug have the normal color or will they look different than normal? Thanks JOHN IIRC, NOS likes 900 to 950 Lbs on thier bottle pressure, this is what thier kits are calibrated to.

If your total is 38 & it runs well, then subtract the number of * out of it that you need for your kit. for example if you are running a 150 HP shot, then take 6 from 38 & set your total to 32. One other comment on this, if your motor is not right on the motor dont try to run the bottle until you get it sorted out or you will be chasing 2 or 3 funnies @ the same time & thats NEVER fun.

lots of purists like to set thier fuel pressure through the noid & others dont. probably the best way to do it, is like doug said a bucket under the plate & set it flowing with everything attached. the reason to make sure the bottle is off is to only have fuel flowing through the plate & not the huge smoke screen you are going to get if you are flowing N2O @ the same time.

if you are not watching the plugs closely........ BOOM!

you want to watch for soot on the plugs not color. the richer it is, the more soot you will have some fuels can trick you because of the color that they put into the fuel. there are a LOT of articles on the web about reading plugs, I will try to post a couple of links tomorrow.

Bob

Hey Bob,

Just been real busy at work and home.

Building a pump gas 491 for the Nova as funds and time allow, EFI of course. Hope to make 625-650 HP and it will be capable of a 300 shot, but the chassis won't be ready for the spray for a long time....

Have the Chevelle running yet?

When checking your plugs you are looking for flecks of metal from the piston correct? What causes the flects on the plugs? If it is detonation then do you retard the timming more?

When you say to hold the plate over a bucket are you talking about hooking it up out side the car but hooked to the fuel on the car? Are you talking about hooking the entire system up but out side the motor compartment but keeping the NOS turned off to check the flow fuel pressure?

Once you see aluminum specks which is aluminum from the pistons, it is probably too late. There is website that has good plug reading pics, Meaux Racing Heads.

The main thing is to be preventative. Make SURE your REAL timing is what you think it is. As for the flowing fuel pressure, yes, you would acutally take the plate and line outside the car and flow the fuel into a bucket. If you use a holley blue pump regulator, the fuel pressure will creep before the solenoid is open, and then the pressure will drop.

And YES, do not even have the nitrous connected when you do this.

If you don't know, nitrous will come out at -90F or so, and will freeze burn you badly. That is why you need to be carefull with it.

I'd suggest buying a book on nitrous use and going through it.

I cant find the link to the site that Doug is talking about but this guy has a pretty good writeup on reading plugs. http://www.pontiacdude.cc/

Bob

You might have to register to see this post, but I think that you can view them as a "annonymous"

http://www.gofastzone.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7539

dont go gettin all wrapped up in the text of the post, check out the pictures & see how they are flowing the plates. I would rather flow them into a bucket (like the bed pan idea) than down the runners into the motor. the fuel will run by the rings & into the oil.

Bob

Just a note I plan to put a NOS pressure gauge and a fuel pressure out side the car by the hood. I also plan to run a purge line too. Would you suggest to use the WOT switch that goes on the carb or just run the button in the car. One more thing I dont exactly understand is when you are going down the track and at WOT the NOS is spraying the whole time unless you back off the throttle, is that bad for the motor to run the NOS for so long? This is assuming that you have everything dialed in correctly. Thanks JOHN

Yes the Nitrous is flowing the entire time you have the button depressed, hopefully it wont take that long ;) , thats the point.

I am running a button on the shifter @ the moment, however, plan on moving it to a throttle switch, if you are new to it, a throttle switch might be a good thing. OR both of them. wire it through the switch & then to the button on the shifter that way if you either back off of the throttle or get off of the button, it kills the system & you have to be doing both to get it to go.

Bob