Hydraulic vs. Solid lifters [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Hydraulic vs. Solid lifters


Busted Knuckles
Mar 12th, 99, 9:01 PM
What are the advantages of each? I understand that for the street, a hydraulic offers quiet operation without need for periodic adjustment, but can pump up and kill power at high revs. I also know that the power band can be tweaked slightly with a solid lifter cam and am told that polylocks (if installed correctly on machined square topped studs) put an end to peroidic adjustments). I may be a throwback to the old days, but I kinda like the clackety-clack of solids. What other characteristics of each should I consider before deciding? And no thanks, I've already eliminated rollers as too pricey. TIA

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tom3
Mar 13th, 99, 3:41 PM
I suppose solid lifters are pretty much a thing of the past on street engines. These were the hot setup years ago when hydraulics were noted for pumping up and floating at high, or not so high, RPMs. At some point the hyd. lifters with the little disc or anti-pumpup came out and really improved them. I'm like you though, I really like to hear the ticking solids and kind of enjoy tinkering around and adjusting them. Other than that, with all but the most radical cams these days, the hydraulics are the only way to to. Pretty amazing to me what you can buy for 150 bucks these days in cam kits. One other minor thing is the solids do tend to beat up the valve train more than the hydraulics, especially with stiffer springs.
tom

Larry
Mar 15th, 99, 7:35 AM
Solid cams are a thing of the past for street engines?? That's a huge generalization, and nowhere close to being true. Many of the people I know would never dream of using anything other than a solid cam. You never have to worry about collapsing a lifter, and no matter what anti-pump up technology is used, hydraulic lifters are still rpm limited. I have to to disagree...hydraulics are not the only the way to go.

GaryR
Mar 15th, 99, 9:19 AM
MyBoTy,
If you go with hydraulic lifters be sure to get name brand lifters from a hi-performance cam company. I had a cam from PAW in Ca. with there own house brand lifters and they started pumping up and holding the valves open around 57 to 5800 rpm. Sometimes they would run to 6000 rpm with no trouble, then on the next pass it would start dropping cylinders at 5800. I think oil temp and viscosity had an effect on it.
I changed to a solid lifter cam so I would eliminate the possibility of it ever being a problem again. The car picked up 3 tenths in the 1/4 mile ET because the engine pulled all the way to the finish instead of laying down at the top end.
If you choose a solid lifter cam beware that the cam specs the manufacturer list are at .000 valve lash. Check the recomended lash and subtract it from the manufactrer spec to get the actual valve lift. On my new cam the specs were .561 lift but with .022 lash it is reduced to .539 actual valve lift. This will also reduce the duration from the manufactuers specs. In my case the duration is about 4 to 5 deg less than the specs list. If you know the specs you want you will have to pick a cam with higer numbers to end up with what you want.
A friend of mine runs a well built 383 in a 57 Nomad with Isky cam and hydraulic lifters with no problems running in the low to mid 6000 rpm range. If you plan on going higher than that I'd go with the solid lifters.
GaryR

Bob Tiley
Mar 15th, 99, 9:25 AM
I just installed solid cams in my last two big blocks. I think they offer more power and are more reliable (not that hydraulics are not reliable, they are fine). I want the most horsepower I can get, and there is one more thing that I don't have to worry about. I hardly ever adjust mine, With Poly-Locks it only needs to be done about every 30,000 miles, and even then they are never off by much.

Busted Knuckles
Mar 15th, 99, 9:54 AM
O.K., guys. One more question: will the lash of solids wear roller rockers faster than hydraulics? It looks like that tiny impact when cold might have some detrimental effect, but is it enough to worry about? By the way, with strong rods, lightweight forged pistons, steel crank and 4 bolt block, I'm looking redline this 427 at around 7 grand or so. TIA

[This message has been edited by MyBoTy (edited 03-15-99).]

Mikeys69
Aug 6th, 09, 10:29 PM
What are the advantages of each? I understand that for the street, a hydraulic offers quiet operation without need for periodic adjustment, but can pump up and kill power at high revs. I also know that the power band can be tweaked slightly with a solid lifter cam and am told that polylocks (if installed correctly on machined square topped studs) put an end to peroidic adjustments). I may be a throwback to the old days, but I kinda like the clackety-clack of solids. What other characteristics of each should I consider before deciding? And no thanks, I've already eliminated rollers as too pricey. TIA

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Do you still like the clackety-clack of solids? lol

FIG
Aug 6th, 09, 11:12 PM
holy thread resurrection!!!!

curley8788
Aug 6th, 09, 11:21 PM
hahahahaha. wow.


just got my crower lifters in the mail today by the way. still waiting on the cam from harold. hopefully it doesnt take much longer, im getting antsy here.

Mikeys69
Aug 6th, 09, 11:43 PM
hahahahaha. wow.


just got my crower lifters in the mail today by the way. still waiting on the cam from harold. hopefully it doesnt take much longer, im getting antsy here.

Didn't you say this weekend you were installing it?