Well as most on here know I just finished breaking in my new engine. I did an oil change after driving it about .2 miles and I noticed that there is metal in the oil. There isn't a whole bunch, and it's really small pieces. Is this normal to have it like this after a cam break in?? For those who don't know this was just recently rebuilt....so it wasn't just a cam break in, but rather a whole engine break in.

Man am I getting disgusted with this crap!! :mad: graemlins/angry.gif graemlins/angry.gif graemlins/angry.gif graemlins/angry.gif graemlins/angry.gif graemlins/angry.gif graemlins/angry.gif

A small amount of shavings are normal. Since no one can clean an engine perfectly, some metal from machining and wear in are to be expected. If you're really concerned, change the oil again at 200 miles. The filter should be much cleaner, although there may still be tiny particles visible. I wouldn't panic, yet smile.gif .

check the lash.

The metal was in the oil I drained, not in the filter. I should have clearified that. This is normal though? *crosses fingers* How do I go about checking the lash on a hydraulic cam? \

Thanks guys....i'm going to try and not freak out on my engine builder here yet.

To be honest, I wouldn't even look at the oil from the first oil change.

It's just not a good indicator? Well as long as the car holds up for me to sell it, then all is well. I really don't want to change the oil again too soon because I filled it up with pricey Mobil 1, but do you think I should anyway?

Stick with it ;) Should look back at a article I wrote a while back about leaving a rag in my oil pan. All I was doing was changing my pan, Cam and intake. After that little boo boo I had to pull my motor and do a total rebuild on a motor that had already been rebuilt :( But you live and learn, Suck it up and start all over :D Couldn't be happier that I stuck with it and got her running again graemlins/hurray.gif

Also wouldn't be a bad idea to cut the filter open & take a look see..As well as remove the valve covers to insure all the lifters/ pushrods are spinning.

Hope everything works out for you graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Originally posted by 71chevy0192:
It's just not a good indicator? Well as long as the car holds up for me to sell it, then all is well. I really don't want to change the oil again too soon because I filled it up with pricey Mobil 1, but do you think I should anyway? I personally wouldn't try to break an engine in using a synthetic oil. Many will disagree as the LS-1 and other factory engines come off the assembly line with synthetic oil. However I've heard from a very reputable engine builder that many performance ring sets will not seat properly (or at all) using synthetic oil.

Also, I agree with what others have said regarding small amounts of metal in the oil. Do you have a magnetic drain plug? I always recommend using them. I also have 4 magnets epoxied in my aluminum heads (two on each side, front and back). This way I have several inspection points as I'm doing engine maintenance to see if anything suspicious is going on in the engine. If you're still seeing significant amounts of oil after the first couple of oil changes then something is wrong.

my $0.02

SSpete67 - No offense, but are you crazy? :eek: I've already had one engine destroyed in this car after about 3k miles of driving. Now if this one is bad (after I spend another $3,000 to rebuilt it) you think I should shrug it off, and build another?? Maybe you're made of money, but i'm sure not. :rolleyes: lol WOW. I've spent more time working on this car than driving it and by now, with all the money i've put into it, I could easily have a nice LS1 trans am or something. I mean ****, my car has a TH350, 2k stall, and an open 3.08 rear end....it's not exactly a blast to drive. This car has pretty much been nothing but a pain in the arse for me, and now that it might be ok, all I can think about is getting rid of the damn thing before I have to dump another few grand into it to get it going again because something else happened! graemlins/angry.gif Sorry to bitch and moan, but this is just rediculous, and there is no way I can afford it.

ssal396 - I'm going to cut the filter open later today and see how it looks. *crosses fingers*

kjett - Oh well. I guess it's too late. I don't see how this will be a problem. Some say don't do it, some say do. Things get kind of confusing when it comes to this.


Thanks for the replies guys. Hopefully I can just get this thing out of my life, take the $$$ loss, and say the hell with it and good ridance. :( graemlins/sad.gif

i wouldnt use synthetic off the bat simply becuase you dump it 20 minutes after firing it, then again in about an hour, and again and again.

Figure you're flushing all the dirt and junk (Even though you cleaned it) out of the casting that comes out when you put heat into the motor.

At this point I would change the oil and filter,
re-check the valve lash, watch the oil pressure gage and temp and go to the next oil change.
Assuming it makes no abnormal noise and no smoking
or fluid consumption, you are probably okay.

SSpete67 - No offense, but are you crazy? I've already had one engine destroyed in this car after about 3k miles of driving. Now if this one is bad (after I spend another $3,000 to rebuilt it) you think I should shrug it off, and build another?? Maybe you're made of money, but i'm sure not. lol WOW. I've spent more time working on this car than driving it and by now, with all the money i've put into it, I could easily have a nice LS1 trans am or something. I mean ****, my car has a TH350, 2k stall, and an open 3.08 rear end....it's not exactly a blast to drive. This car has pretty much been nothing but a pain in the arse for me, and now that it might be ok, all I can think about is getting rid of the damn thing before I have to dump another few grand into it to get it going again because something else happened! Sorry to bitch and moan, but this is just rediculous, and there is no way I can afford it. Man, thats how I am starting to feel, my car has been torn apart for almost a year. I dropped amost 4k between the motor & suspention work, just to have the cam take a ***** on me. Now I am almost ready to assemble again, Now I am in the process of putting together a M-20 for this friggen money pitt... I gotta tell you when it comes time to fire this thing up again, I will be as nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs ;)

Heaven forbid something should go wrong again, someone is gonna get one sweet deal on a '69 SS.....

What is the color and how big and shape of the " peices " does it look like metal flake in paint ? specs, flakes. I run an Oberg filter and wsh it in a drain [ain w/ laquer thinner. From there I run a magnet through it. Try and get an idea of where its from.

Since you are selling the car all I can say is how impressed I am that you care enough to want it to be right for the next owner smile.gif Oh yeah, if it has t*ts or wheels it will have problems, its up to you how you deal with that (frustration etc).

On dino oil vs synthetic: do not forget that on the LS1's and other newer engines that the factory is using a completely different ring package and final cylinder hone than the engine you just put together - which makes a trememndous difference in what kind of oil can be used for the initial fill. Also, newer hydraulic roller factory engines do not require a camshaft break-in, just start them up and go.

Thomas

Originally posted by kjett:
If you're still seeing significant amounts of oil after the first couple of oil changes then something is wrong.

my $0.02 [/QB]yeah keep that oil out at all cost! tongue.gif graemlins/beers.gif

Originally posted by young gun '71:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by kjett:
If you're still seeing significant amounts of oil after the first couple of oil changes then something is wrong.

my $0.02 yeah keep that oil out at all cost! tongue.gif graemlins/beers.gif [/QB]</font>[/QUOTE]If you change the oil again and there was still a lot of oil in there, try running without your valvecovers on. Not only does it solve that problem, but also gives you a really trick look and keeps your chassis lubed. :D

but seriously. 71chevy0192, how is the engine running now. Had any noises? Have your driven it some more and checked the oil for metal again?

:rolleyes:

I'm worried about mine too, but i'll keep driving it as i can. if the cam gives way, I'll just pull the engine and replace what i need and add a solid flat tappet while i'm at it. I think we both mad the mistake of running hyd cams when they seem to be failing, i can live with the mistake if it turns out to be one.

If your worried about building another motor, Buy a create motor. They have warranties and are sometimes cheaper to buy done than to build one. I'm sure not made of money, I just don't like giving up and being beat. I knew I could do it and simply put I made a stupid mistake with the rag and fixed it. ;)