I had to rebuild my 402 a few months ago because it ate the 1st cam due to a lifter being assembled wrong by our CC buddies. :mad:

Now after about 1200 (easy) miles on the new cam I have a couple of lifters starting to get loud again. I have adjusted them but they still are not as quiet as the others. This is starting to pi$$ me off ! graemlins/angry.gif

If it continues I am thinking about going to a roller cam just so I don’t ever have to worry about this again. What are my options here ? I have never had a roller before so are we talking solids or hydraulic ? I have a Comp 280 magnum in there now and I really like the set up with it. (I was going to use UDHarolds but he was in dire straights at the time) I’m just tired of rebuilding engines – I want to drive for awhile !

This is what I have:

402 (bored .60)
049 heads
Edelbrock 750
performer manifold
headers - 2 1/2 exhaust w/flowmasters
2500 stall TH-350
3.73 rear

What are my options ? This is a weekend car for cruising and light to light stuff - no racing.

Thanks !

Tom

If you go with a roller, watch the fuel pump lobe. I have a roller cam and the fuel pump lobe ate away right before I switched to a electric fuel pump. I had to rebuild the whole motor.

solid rollaers on the street have no better durability than flat tappet cams the problem is that there isnt much oiling at low rpms and the rollers die and wipe out the lobes. if your gonna get a solid roller get the isky redline lifters or the crower severe duty with hippo option. you caould also have the cam and lifters cryo treated which is cheap insurance.

Is there any reason a roller cam would eat a fuel pump lobe more so then any other cam. Im installing a roller just wondering.

unclebob, check with your cam supplier/grinder and double check. The person who sold me the cam told me TWICE it would be ok with my stock rod. I'm just letting you know so others dont have the same problem.

Also you may want to invest in a electrical pump if you have the extra money. I put together a nice fuel delivery system together for about 425 dollars +/- $50. If you want to know more about it email me.

BTW mine is a factory hydraulic roller with after market cam.

ive got a large comps hydro roller in mine and it seems to be very noisy. maybe valve train noise is just part of the deal. dont know. i do worry about the noise though. Dave

Originally posted by UNCLEBOB:
Is there any reason a roller cam would eat a fuel pump lobe more so then any other cam. Im installing a roller just wondering. Yes, billet rollers are not compatible with the steel pump rod.
Just get the bronze tipped pump rod for a billet roller.
Try Moroso.

I went through setting the valves again this evening and it SEEMS as though they have quieted down.

I may be a little hypersensitive because of the 1st cam getting eaten. The noise is more of a ticking rather than a clacking so maybe this is just normal noise from a 280 cam.

It runs great ! and I am getting on it a little more just to see if it get worse and it doesn't seem to be so maybe I'm just paraniod - for good reason !

Cya`

Tom

Wolfplace I needed that info about 9 months ago :rolleyes: :D

What does a roller set go for ?

Do you have to buy the cam, lifters & springs as a set or can you use your existing springs with the roller lifters and cam ?

And from what I have gleened here tonight - a fuel pump rod ! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Tom

Aaron I think I will go with electric pump,just when I thought the bleeding had stopped, oh well.you got mail

Originally posted by team5150:
What does a roller set go for ?

Do you have to buy the cam, lifters & springs as a set or can you use your existing springs with the roller lifters and cam ?

And from what I have gleened here tonight - a fuel pump rod ! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Tom Prices can get up to $1000 USD for a cam/lifter/spring/locks/etc. Depends on cam, manufacturer, seller, etc.

Bob, I noticed your from my neck of the county. You ever run your truck out at Bremerton?

Ya I was out there all but about three races.

Originally posted by Aaron Kelley:
Wolfplace I needed that info about 9 months ago :rolleyes: :D So the cam was failure was caused by using the wrong pushrod.
That explains alot. I was wondering what that was all about and how.

Originally posted by UNCLEBOB:
Aaron I think I will go with electric pump,just when I thought the bleeding had stopped, oh well.you got mail The bleeding doen`t have to go on. graemlins/sad.gif
Put a $75 Carter 172 GPH mechanical pump on there.
Enough of a pump to go 10`s in big block easy.

I went with better pump because I didn't want it qitting on me while on the rode mine cost about 150 + tax. So did that pump make your ride go 10's...lol your sig says 11.69 :D

Yes the only thing I could gather, was the wrong pump rod. I guess that was one of the few times asking questions didn't help :(

No it didn`t make it run 10`s, :rolleyes: it`s not a 10 sec car.
The point is, it`ll support a stout Big block easy. So a small motor is no problem.

I`ve heard of 9 sec passes using one.
So you could have saved about $350 and had a more reliable pump than what you ended up with tongue.gif

Big Red I was talking about the WHOLE system. Pump, steel braided hoses, sump, regulator, and AN fittings. So NO I didn't just spend 425 on the pump. That was a fiqure for the whole system. smile.gif