Ok guys I need help fiding a good hyd roller cam for my 454 since i have to replace the one that i have in it now becasue of roller lifter failure, camshaft originaly was in there was the 01403LM would pull to 6500 with no valve float. Spec are below. THIS HAS TO BE A STEP NOSE GEN V VI CAMSHAFT FOR THE SETUP I HAVE.

I have been looking at the crower 01404LM But havnt made up my mind yet.

454 Gen V std bore
2465 Trw Forged Pistons 27.5 domes
Forged steel crank
Req Port 088 Gen V Heads 118cc Chambers
Full roller rockers
Performer Rpm Airgap Manifold
Demon 850DP
Headers are 2' primarys to 3.5 collectors through 3" exhaust with X-Pipe and Turbos Dumped before axel.

Not for sure on my compression I think its around 10.1, This is in a 1967 chevelle with Built Up Th350 I will get a new converter to match camshaft and a 12 bolt with 3:73 Gears. I use this car for the Track and Street.

I know somone can help me out..?????/

Anyone out there? :confused:

It may not be perfect but, the price might be, check out E-25523 on Crower's Garage Sale page...

http://www.crower.com/sp/gs_cams.shtml

Yea price doesnt matter i have around 300 to put into another hyd roller cam just want to get the most our of the hyd roller setup..

make sure to check valvespring installed height on all 16, and for coilbind when you put it back together.

Yea when I find a camshaft i will get the springs and retainers and locks that matches the camshaft, I already had the valve guides machined down and for positive style locks. Soon to be scrapping the Req Port heads for some Aluminum Ovals soon... Also trying to figure out how much lift i can get without hitting the trw 2469 pistons..

Originally posted by sugarwolfpimp69:
Yea when I find a camshaft i will get the springs and retainers and locks that matches the camshaft, I already had the valve guides machined down and for positive style locks. Soon to be scrapping the Req Port heads for some Aluminum Ovals soon... Also trying to figure out how much lift i can get without hitting the trw 2469 pistons.. =
Lift has very little to do with valves hitting the pistons.
It is duration & lobe seperation.
The only way to know for sure is to measure it or measure what you have now & tell the cam manufacturer along with what cam you are running.
You can also measure the valve drop at TDC or as Isky calls it "VOTC" & give this to the cam guys.

It depends on your application, what are you going to do with it?
I had good performance out of a nice running engine (high-mid 12's on street radials @ 112 in a 4000lb car) out of an Ultradyne HR4, 296 @ .006 233(it might be 230) @ .050 .621, and Harold said the other day he is updating this cam a little bit, and it was a sweet one to begin with.
Before I went solid roller, (count to 10.. no rant) I was considering a like 292/296 @ .006 242/248 @ .050, .640 lift-type cams. I had a few picked out in that general direction, one was from cammotion and this was from UDHarold's .600 lift series of hyd rollers.

So no specific cam.. just where are you going with the engine?
I would pick something like the first cam on a 110 or 112 for a more mild application, and something on a 110 with the second cam for a more wild application, although it could be done on a 112, but big duration and wide lobe sep appears to have not worked in my favor on my solid cam.
if you did say what you were doing with the cam and I missed it sorry, but otherwise I'd figure out your application and go with a UDHarold, Cammotion or Bullit grind... I have no had great luck with the cams I have used from a large well known corporation, not to say they don't work but in my limited experience..
Just my .02 on hyd rollers.. don't expect anything more than 6k rpm out of them, no matter what cam or spring you use in a normally assembled engine.. but they work absolutely fine up to that limit.. they can and do rev past 6k, but after seeing probably 70 dyno sheets from hyd roller engines you can actually see where they start to run into trouble..
standard disclaimer, I'm not very experienced with this , or a mechanic, I do this just for fun...

matt

Well what i use the car for is high performance street to track and i am on the gas most the time.. Just want to get the most power out of a hyd roller since i have used solid rollers and have had 2 sets failed on the street so i want to stick with hyd roller.

The Lunati H4 then. Give it all of, what? Matt, 10.3:1, 110 LSA, 3000 stall ( 3500 with 108), and it should reliably ROCK!

You figured out why the other two cams failed? You should be able to run an SR cam on the street quite reliably, given a manageable grind and adequate spring pressure. Not enough oil?

Well the solid rollers i had were comp cams solids and the pin on the rollers came out on 3 of them and went all intot he engine lucly there wasnt that much damage, Comp sent me new ones and they did it again in 1 set luckly i caught it before they fell apart. I dont know somthing about comp cams they are getting some bad machineists or somthing, I use to use there hyd flat tappet cams in a 427 i had and i lost to cams to lobe failure, The failure on this one was a hyd roller lifters that i put in one of them the link bar was the wrong way i didint see that the rollers on 1 set was at a angle since the cross bar was the wrong way and it cut a small grove in the cam and it was making some wierd metalic noise and then it did break one of the valve springs and i have no clue how it did that so i just got my hands on some new Isky Hyd rollers and now i need to get a hyd roller camshaft now instead of sending it off to have it reground..

Whats the part # for the lunati H4 ??

You'd have to get in touch with Harold for that. He never put up his line of hydraulic rollers on the Lunati website as far as I can tell.
I think he said he was adding a touch of duration to the HR4 in another post. Search around here, his extension and # at lunati is on this site, if he is back from vacation.
Its a legitimate 12 second cam that ran well for me for a number of years, with 9.6:1 compression in my 4000lb car with 3.31s on p245 radials it did a 12.7 @ 112.43 my first time ever at the track. I think its a good choice between that and a more extreme hydraulic roller.
It's got a rumpity idle and a unique exhaust note.
The other cams may get a bit too lift intensive for you.. I think the .621 of the HR4 is a good balance for a BBC, or he may suggest something from his .600 lift line.

HTH
Matt

If you are using the factory link bar setup on a gen 6 with stock lifters lobe lift is limited to about .335" . Any more than that and the lifter is hitting the link bar . I had Comp grind a custom Hydraulic roller using marine lobes for a 454HO. The specs are as follows:
Duration @.006 290/296
@.050 236/242
Lift w/1.7 .549/.567
LSA 110
ICL 106
Grind# 3355/3356 HR110
Part# 01-000-8
This cam made 427 RWHP in a Chevelle with a TH400

If you are using the factory link bar setup on a gen 6 with stock lifters lobe lift is limited to about .335" . Any more than that and the lifter is hitting the link bar . I had Comp grind a custom Hydraulic roller using marine lobes for a 454HO. The specs are as follows:
Duration @.006 290/296
@.050 236/242
Lift w/1.7 .549/.567
LSA 110
ICL 106
Grind# 3355/3356 HR110
Part# 01-000-8
This cam made 427 RWHP in a Chevelle with a TH400

no i dont have the factory roller cam lifters, i have retrofit hyd rollers that have the link bar on them not the spider and dog bone setup that coes stock on gen 6 blocks..

Just got it up and running, I got my hands on some light weight hyd rollers and titanuim retainers to keep the weight down in the valve train. No more valve float pulls hard all the way up to 6500 and notice no valve float.. Sallee Chevrolet had allt he parts in stock so if somone is looking for light weight hyd rollers they have them in stock..

Originally posted by sugarwolfpimp69:
I got my hands on some light weight hyd rollers Can you post the brand with PN`s ?

I am not for sure what the part # is, I got them from Sallee Chevrolet they said they just got them and there 53.00 each. They are alot lighter than the other hyd rollers i had before. So if i find out what the part # is I will post it here.

Sugarwolf not to knock you personally at all, I though the same thing with my hyd rollers..

Even the best hyd rollers start to see some valve issues at like 5200ish, then it gets worse from there. You can rev it to 6500, but its not the same as a solid.
However, good luck with the combo-- IMHO (and very humble opinion) think that solid rollers are worth less HP than they are simply feel of the engine if you plan it out.
The only reason I say this is even though I have no qualifications in this area, I was shown a ton of dyno sheets of hyd roller motors of all brands, all types, etc, and they all showed a distinctive pattern of starting to lose efficency at a certain RPM.
but hey-- you've got the best of both worlds right now.

go kick some butt...

matt

If u are sing valve issues at 5200 then u must have some serious valve train weight there, I have all the lightest parts i can get and the heaviest valve springs i can run on a hyd. So it must vary to enegine to engine, I have talked to the dyno guy at sallee chevrolet and he said dont listen to that crap people saying hyd rollers are only good to 5000, He told me they have had them to 6700 on there custom built 502's on there dynos with no valve float, So whoeever u seen dynod those must have a heavy valve train, Hyd rollers are not much heavier that solids, Why dont u go buy a set and weigh them. The only thing helping the solids are real heavy valves. Oh and i have seen the dyno sheets at sallee chevrolet they are about 15 miles from me. So u would have to see it to belive it. Ig the hyd are so bad then why is the mustant 5.0 guys swear by there hyd rollers....