I figured I would start a new thread so I can document the chassis build... I started with a second chassis from a 66 Chevelle... I will be running Varishock QuickSet 1s on all 4 corners. The rear will have a new Moser 12 bolt held in place by Cauurietrac arms. Brakes will be 12" discs from an 02 Camaro. Front suspension is SPD uppers and SC&C lowers with custom upper shock mounts. AFX spindles with C5 12" brakes. The frame will be boxed and an inner skeleton built for added stiffness.

... the car ...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/01.jpg

... the idea...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/VelleFrame4.jpg

... the beginning...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04660.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04662.jpg

I will add new pics as I get them... the first ones didn't come out very good. The overall shot was kind of dark...

Hey Rich,
So what did ya go with for Tube size and thickness?

Adam

Nice work that should help stiffen the chassis up quite a bit.

Where did you get the inserts for your crossmember, or did you machine them yourself? Also they look like they are aluminum, so how are you going to keep them from twisting or pulling out, if they are steel then i know you can weld them in.

They are stainless steel, and they are fully welded in place to the crossmember. The bar was an old one we had for the T56 lying around our shop, so we gave it to Rich.

Tyler

I like what i see. I am also doing a 67 chevelle frame off. I am puting a 2000 6.0 with a 4L80 tran. keep me posted on your progress.

They are stainless steel, and they are fully welded in place to the crossmember. The bar was an old one we had for the T56 lying around our shop, so we gave it to Rich.

Tyler

That crossmember was designed for the first gen Camaro T56 swap and sits a little high for what I'm doing... It may not be used because of floor pan clearance issues...

I see what you mean about the crossmember it really needs to bow down in the middle to get the driveline angle right. Shouldn't be too difficult to fab up a new one though let us know what you figure out as I plan to box the frame on my 67 one of these days.

I see what you mean about the crossmember it really needs to bow down in the middle to get the driveline angle right. Shouldn't be too difficult to fab up a new one though let us know what you figure out as I plan to box the frame on my 67 one of these days.

All he did was weld some small angle iron on the round tube and use another straight piece to brighe across... Once the body is on and I can see how much room I need for the the driveshaft and exhaust... we can come up with something better...

Here are two more pics... The two long rails are 1 3/4" and the inner triangles are 1 5/8"

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04689.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04685.jpg

That crossmember was designed for the first gen Camaro T56 swap and sits a little high for what I'm doing... It may not be used because of floor pan clearance issues...

Rich, depending on how low you want the car to sit you might need the transmission that high and you might have to cut the floor out instead. The lower you go with the rear suspension the higher the tranny needs to be to minimize the u-joint working angles to keep the vibes away.

I suggest getting the frame at your intended ride height and figuring out your driveshaft working angles now, and then if it doesn't fit the body, cut out the tunnel.

Rich, you mention in your first post that you will be using 12" C5 front disc with your AFX spindles. Can you tell me where you got that in a 12" setup and what the costs were.

Thanks, Tony

Rich, you mention in your first post that you will be using 12" C5 front disc with your AFX spindles. Can you tell me where you got that in a 12" setup and what the costs were.

Thanks, Tony

They are actually 12 3/4" (325 mm) C5 rotors. I purchased them from www.KORE3.COM because they didn't have the Vette logo on the calipers....

They are actually 12 3/4" (325 mm) C5 rotors. I purchased them from www.KORE3.COM because they didn't have the Vette logo on the calipers....

Got me a set of them too.... they are purdy.. now to get the frame blasted and painted...
Here is a shot of mine
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/1534/dsc0180zg2.jpg

Those look like C6 calipers, How did you get them without the KORE3 logo on them?

Those look like C6 calipers, How did you get them without the KORE3 logo on them?


KORE 3 will sell them that way but you have to contact them and they need to have blanks in stock that havent been scripted, etc yet.

I inquired about that some months ago and that it what I was told by KORE 3 reps. They will do it but dont list it as an option (last time I checked anyway)

Here are some new pics...
The rear crossmember is a little low and will be reaised...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04723.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04727.jpg

Here is my plan for routing the exhaust.. .I should have room since I'll be running coilovers...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04728exh.jpg

Coilover crossmember... clears the trunk floor but i'll need to swap out for some shorter shocks...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04725.jpg

The stock coil perches will be ground off and smoothed

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04724.jpg

Looking good Rich.

That is looking great I think your exhaust routing idea should work fairly well. Its gonna be tight with the floorpan but it will keep it up out of the way.

So I decided that its more important to have suspension travel then worry about "adjusting" the trunk floor pan... We raised the rear upper shock crossmember for the longer shocks...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04839.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04838.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04831.jpg

Look at the perty welds . . . :D

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04835.jpg

Next up - Front suspension :hurray:

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04825.jpg

Any updates?

Well it's been a while... I took the frame home and it sat for a while. I wasn't really happy with the front upper mounts.... So I finally brought it to another shop to have them redone... They came out awesome... I'll have a few more updates over the next month or so...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06665.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06665.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06667.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06667.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06673.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06673.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06671.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06671.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06678.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06678.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06679.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06679.jpg)

Look at these welds... The man is an artist...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_IMG_3831.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=IMG_3831.jpg)

And yes, I cut up a brand new set of SC&C lower arms....:D

Here is a sneak of the rear... think cantalever...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06683.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06683.jpg)

Gorgeous!!! You're right about that guy being an artist.

how much travel do the front shocks have? why the raised upper and lower mounts? i could see raising the upper and leaving the lower alone. what were the mods done to the spc lower control arms? motion ratio change?

whats going on with the rear? looks interesting!!!!

keep up the good work......

Tim

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06665.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06665.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06667.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06667.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06673.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06673.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06671.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06671.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06678.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06678.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06679.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06679.jpg)

Look at these welds... The man is an artist...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_IMG_3831.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=IMG_3831.jpg)

And yes, I cut up a brand new set of SC&C lower arms....:D

Here is a sneak of the rear... think cantalever...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_DSC06683.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=DSC06683.jpg)

I have been thinking of doing something similar as I don't know that I feel really good about the coil over mounting. A while back I ordered these eye bolts

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x82/passperf/shockeye002-1.jpg

But I have not committed to doing it because it would be no turning back or changing direction once I cut the spring pocket. I have been leaning toward going with regular springs or reinforcing the area where the vari-shock stud comes through since the above piece just threads onto the shock. It would seem that is where the load stress would be imo. Your set up looks nice. I was just wondering why you modded the LCA? I am guessing because the shock is rather short and you wanted have enough through the frame?

Wow. Very cool stuff. I just finished boxing and adding some minor bracing to my 69 frame but after seeing what you have done i want to do more. I am definitely envious.

Wow. Very cool stuff. I just finished boxing and adding some minor bracing to my 69 frame but after seeing what you have done i want to do more. I am definitely envious.

i think im in the same boat. the cars been pretty much backhalved, but i think the bracing is next. i need to figure out how much i can do with the semi stock floors and exhaust routing.

its incredible how flexible the frame is. with it on the rotisserie and the front rotation locked, i can lift the rear corner up about 2" before the rotisserie starts to come off the ground. thats about a 2* differnce front to back with only about 80-100lbs of lift. our bodies really supply a HUGE amount of rigidity.

Tim

The two main reasons for modding the LCA was that I felt the spring bucket was too low. (I know there were a bunch of guys running coilover spacers as well) I also wanted a double shear mount. I even purchased a set of T-Bars for my Varishocks but decided that since I was modding the top, I might as well mod the bottom. {{When I say "I", I mean the guys at the shop}}


The frame was boxed for rigidity. I went the extra mile with the skeleton frame for a little more support and will let me use a shorter trans crossmember. I also put in a drive shaft loop but that may get redesigned. All of this only goes so far. I decided I will not be adding a cage so the stiffness is only 2 dimensional. A 3 dimensional roll cage will always be superior.

When I had the skeleton framework added I aske them to make sure it was flush with the bottom of the frame. This should allow me to keep my stock floor with maybe a few small clearance spots underneath with the floor pan bracing.

Shocks:
If I remember correctly the fronts have about 4.5 inches of travel and the rears have something around 7 inches. It was also recomended to me that I send the shocks back to the MFG to be QC'd and/or rebuilt as there has been a uncomfortably hight failure rate.

They also "boxed" the spring cups ...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_IMG_3834.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=IMG_3834.jpg)

I have been thinking of doing something similar as I don't know that I feel really good about the coil over mounting. A while back I ordered these eye bolts

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x82/passperf/shockeye002-1.jpg

But I have not committed to doing it because it would be no turning back or changing direction once I cut the spring pocket. I have been leaning toward going with regular springs or reinforcing the area where the vari-shock stud comes through since the above piece just threads onto the shock. It would seem that is where the load stress would be imo. Your set up looks nice. I was just wondering why you modded the LCA? I am guessing because the shock is rather short and you wanted have enough through the frame?

I just checked out your site. I have actually seen it before. I really like the trans tunnel... Anyway if you went this route the extra long eye bolts will help as I remember a few people say that the spring cups were too deep for a lowered suspension and needed spacers... You're right, in order to put a bolt through a double shear mount it needed to be raised just above the frame...

I just checked out your site. I have actually seen it before. I really like the trans tunnel... Anyway if you went this route the extra long eye bolts will help as I remember a few people say that the spring cups were too deep for a lowered suspension and needed spacers... You're right, in order to put a bolt through a double shear mount it needed to be raised just above the frame...

Thanks for reply. I am still trying to make up my mind on which way to go. And thanks on trans tunnel but it was really the idea of Troy (Gokou) that had posted his mod which convinced me too cut mine.

Here is a little teaser of some mocked up cantilever coilovers from the Chevelle.... I took these with my cell phone so they are not the best pics...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_1212081137a.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=1212081137a.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_1212081137.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=1212081137.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_1212081135a.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=1212081135a.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_1212081135.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=1212081135.jpg) http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/th_1212081138.jpg (http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/?action=view&current=1212081138.jpg)

thats an interesting design. what made you do the cantilevered shocks? what is your effective rate going to be? is it going to be double shear?

cool pics.....

Tim

thats an interesting design. what made you do the cantilevered shocks? what is your effective rate going to be? is it going to be double shear?

cool pics.....

Tim

I can answer a few of those-

Yes, we will building the bracket to be double shear in all respects. When we were looking for a good spot to mount the rear shocks it would have required cutting of the trunk to keep the rear crossbar in place, and the lower mounts would have only been single shear. We found a creative way to mount them out of the way of the fuel tank (Rich is planning on mounting the tank to the frame vs the body) and get double shear mounts. The cantilever was just for fun/packaging. We got the thumbs up to continue so we will be finishing off the rear mounts (we also did the front coil over conversion) and then mounting the LSX/T56 combo and making a crossmember. At that point we will re-weld all the seams top and bottom, and blast the frame to get it ready for finishing.

Tyler

tyler, i didnt know you had taken over the build. is the rear suspension still going to be a C4L, or will that get updated as well? keep up the good work.

Tim

tyler, i didnt know you had taken over the build. is the rear suspension still going to be a C4L, or will that get updated as well? keep up the good work.

Tim

Tim,
Whats C4L? I think that means "four link" ... if so, yes. Im keeping the Currie lowers w/ jonny joints and adjustable uppers. At ride height the lowers should be parallel with the ground. I plan on running a splined swaybar but I'll leave that up to Tyler to figure out... I'll be watching your thread on the front splined bar... :D

C4L=Converging 4-Link I believe as in the stock style suspension for chevelles rather than a parallel 4-link which is popular for drag racing.

Hey Man, nice build!

I am in the middle of a 67 GTO chassis resto/modification. I really like what you did with the swap to coil overs in the back and eliminating the factory coil over and shock mount. I was wondering why you didn't cut and slide the frame rails a couple of inches inboard If you did that you would be good to go for 335s in the rear. I have 295s on mine now with stock frame and slightly modified outer wheelhouses. I am looking at moving the frame rail 1-1/2 inches in and adding 2" to the inner wheel house so I can put the big pro touring Michelin Pilots or something like that on mine. It looks good on the Camaros, I know it would make an A-body look bad!

i am new here and just surfing a bit. this is great. love the site and hopefully will run in to some of you guys at shows. Take care, BTW chassis looks great (doing similar to mine) and type 2 ya'll later.
jason

Tyler,
When boxing the rails is it necessary to fixture the frame at all if you move around while welding? How about during welding the seams?

Tyler,
When boxing the rails is it necessary to fixture the frame at all if you move around while welding? How about during welding the seams?

I was curious about that myself, since I'm going to be boxing my 72 Chevelle frame coming up in a few months as was looking around for some info on doing it and found this thread.

Tyler didnt box the frame, someone else did. When they came up with thier idea for upper shock mounts, I pulled the frame... they were scary...

Shortly after I brought the frame to Tylers shop he made the descision to close down the fabrication side of the business. His fabricator Russ was able to put together the new upper shock mounts for the front and re-modify the lower control arm mounts before Tyler closed up an went work for Anvil in LA.

If I had found ATS sooner I would have had them do the frame from beginning to end...

I now have the frame with Tylers fabricator Russ. He has a small (two bays and a lift :)) home shop where we will continue the progress. I will ask about when he rewelded the frame but I dont believe he use a fixture. I know the previous guy who boxed it did not.

I took some more pics on Saturday while fabbbing up the rear coil overs and sway bar mounts. I will try and post them soon...

I was curious about that myself, since I'm going to be boxing my 72 Chevelle frame coming up in a few months as was looking around for some info on doing it and found this thread.

When boxing the frame you should put in some supports which are X'ed and tacked to the frame to prevent warpage. a frame fixture is best but you should put in some supports to help prevent the frame from bowing. Also weld slowly to not get the frame too hot.

Here are the pics from last Saturday. I wish I took more... Its hard to remember the camera when your actually making progress...


We drilled thru the frame for the upper mounts an will cap off the ends

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC05655.jpg


http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC05657.jpg

Here is the start of the lower mounts. The will be boxed and have a plate for the sway bar to attatch...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC05656.jpg

When boxing the frame you should put in some supports which are X'ed and tacked to the frame to prevent warpage. a frame fixture is best but you should put in some supports to help prevent the frame from bowing. Also weld slowly to not get the frame too hot.

Thanks for the info Luke, I will more than likely build me a jig for boxing the frame since I have plenty of room for it in the shop. I am currently looking for a donor frame to mock up the jig and start modifying that donor frame so I don't have to tear the car apart to start on the frame.

Thanks for the info Luke, I will more than likely build me a jig for boxing the frame since I have plenty of room for it in the shop. I am currently looking for a donor frame to mock up the jig and start modifying that donor frame so I don't have to tear the car apart to start on the frame.

i could see doing this, but if you warp the frame, as soon as you remove the bracing it will pop out to where it would have been anyways. the frame is hard to weld since its a c channel. you are only applying heat to one side which makes warpage REALLY easy. 1" welds and jump around. mine stretched 1/4" in the middle, but i have an inner webbing which sucked it all back in.

i could see doing this, but if you warp the frame, as soon as you remove the bracing it will pop out to where it would have been anyways. the frame is hard to weld since its a c channel. you are only applying heat to one side which makes warpage REALLY easy. 1" welds and jump around. mine stretched 1/4" in the middle, but i have an inner webbing which sucked it all back in.

Any other suggestions other than short welds and trying to keep the frame from getting to hot? (and I do plan on the inner webbing very similar to what you did on your frame. I have been watching both threads and really like what you guys are doing.

Made a little progress last Sunday. Finished the rear coil over mounts....

Russ tacking in the lower
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC05659.jpg

before boxing...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC05661.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC05670.jpg

tacking the uppers...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC05673.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC05677.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC05674.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC05675.jpg
Dont mind the dog toy.... you can see the sway bar mount. The metal strap was bent and welded to the axle tube...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC05667.jpg

You can see my sway bar mounted under the pumpkin... fits nice... not sure about the arms yet.... may bend them in, and I need a frame mount made...
.
.
.

Rich a little late but here is how we did mine. I used a shorter shock they are the 16.25" eye to eye. I "dished-out" my frame rail for clearance to get the angle I wanted. I used the supplied adjustable lower mounting plate welded to the axel tube w/ the bolt-on double shear brackets.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j94/tmcmillan5/tonys%20pictures/Chevelle/CIMG0102.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j94/tmcmillan5/tonys%20pictures/Chevelle/CIMG0104.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j94/tmcmillan5/tonys%20pictures/Chevelle/CIMG0105.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j94/tmcmillan5/tonys%20pictures/Chevelle/CIMG0106.jpg

Here is a picture w/ the 96 B body tank

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j94/tmcmillan5/tonys%20pictures/Chevelle/chevelle003.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j94/tmcmillan5/tonys%20pictures/Chevelle/chevelle006.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j94/tmcmillan5/tonys%20pictures/Chevelle/chevelle007.jpg

All he did was weld some small angle iron on the round tube and use another straight piece to brighe across... Once the body is on and I can see how much room I need for the the driveshaft and exhaust... we can come up with something better...

Here are two more pics... The two long rails are 1 3/4" and the inner triangles are 1 5/8"

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04689.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i98/mcmlxix/Chevelle/DSC04685.jpg

i know this is and old thread but i got a 65 and want to know what this type of work would cost. to box the frame and brace it like this pic. thanks.

This fellow was doing some very strong work and making good progress with the build on his Chevelle...and then the thread just stopped, over a year ago.
What happened with the build on this car?

-Greg

This fellow was doing some very strong work and making good progress with the build on his Chevelle...and then the thread just stopped, over a year ago.
What happened with the build on this car?

-Greg

My fab guy got a SEMA project to work on so my car got put on the back burner... then I got slightly distracted, and have been directing any spare cash towards this ..... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=423432

As soon as its reliable I'll beback on the Chevelle....

Bump.

Greetings, Rich. I hope things are well with you. It has been a while since we last talked.

You still around these parts? Looks like you're pretty heavy into that Blazer you picked up.