Hi guys. I finally this weekend got accomplished what I've been wanting to do all summer. I got my 4.11 richmond gear and Auburn Pro Series posi put in my car. I also have the th350 with 3000 stall and a shift kit. That's the 2 biggest things I've done this summer. The car seems alot better. I've just got one VICIOUS case of wheel hop on my hands.

So lead me in the right direction. What should I look at FIRST. I've got a totally stock rear suspension on the car other than cargo springs and monroe shocks and a hellwig sway bar. I did a search on wheel hop, and there were tons of different posts, but noone really verified what would be best to look at first.

Will someone also explain to me what causes wheel hop?


Thanks,
Joe Phillips

At least part of the problem is caused by deflection of the stock rubber trailing arm bushings. Also if you have unboxed lower trailing arms, they can bend and spring back as well. Also contributing is the stock geometry of the rear trailing arms that place the instant center (imaginary intersecting point) of the arms too far forward. Aftermarket "no hop" (upper) bars or SSM lift (lower) bars change the geometry to move the instant center rearward. Also the holes in the frame where the lower trailing arm front mounting bolts go through can be worn and elongated, allowing some movement there. Probably the place to start is to replace your rubber bushings with polyurethane or poly-graphite and box the lower trailing arms. That isn't a guaranteed fix though. Sometimes more is required.

Lower the back end of the car, if its raised at all it will be prone to wheel hop.

I had the same problem with mt 67' elke bb.I switched to 15''rims with a taller tire in the back, alittle harder to spin, also I purchased lift bars for the rear end. Jegs has these for a-body which have coil springs for about 150.00-180.oo. They are heavy duty, boxed trailing arms that change the angle on the rear a few degrees seems to help alot. Also took awhile to do, I not sure if I put it at the right angle, but close. Hope this helps. Tim 67'elke 396-manual

Nevertheless, I had VISCIOUS wheel hop when I removed the ladder bars that came with my car. Installed boxed lowers/swaybar - still wheel hop. New KYB's and springs. Still hopped, but not as much. Finally installed a set of solid uppers I got in a trade and shazzam. It wasn't the beefy Hotchkis bars, it was simply new bushings in the pumpkin. That's where all the wheel hop was coming from. Von's advice is spot on. Bushings are top candidates in my book. R&R 'em, box the lowers in the process.

Originally posted by 427L88:
Nevertheless, I had VISCIOUS wheel hop when I removed the ladder bars that came with my car. Installed boxed lowers/swaybar - still wheel hop. New KYB's and springs. Still hopped, but not as much. Finally installed a set of solid uppers I got in a trade and shazzam. It wasn't the beefy Hotchkis bars, it was simply new bushings in the pumpkin. That's where all the wheel hop was coming from. Von's advice is spot on. Bushings are top candidates in my book. R&R 'em, box the lowers in the process. You think a set of ladder bars will help? I have decided to box the uppers and lowers with poly bushings. Can anyone recommend some nice trailing arms that arnt too pricey? Can someone also recommend a nice shock and spring?

Thanks,
Joe Phillips

You can easily box your existing trailing arms with some 1/8" plate and a welder (after removing the rubber bushings). Or the Chevelle parts places sell spacers to weld in that duplicate the factory boxed arms, as what was used with factory F-41 rear sway bars.

I like the $30 KYB's, although for the dragstrip, the fronts are a bit stiff. Superb , modest-proced shocks, imho.

Oh ladders will deifitely band-aid the wheel hop. But they have they own issues. Run a search.