So I'm in the serious hunt for a 1970 Chevelle convertible. I have looked at a few cars, some Malibus and some Clone SS's. I'm not looking for the real deal, not willing to spend that kind of change and suffer a divorce, but I really like the looks of the SS's.

What does it take to clone an SS the "correct" way. The car will be for me to drive daily and NEVER, repeat NEVER sell. I know some people take issue at cloning a car but some of the ones I've seen have already begun the process, some better than others, so continuing the process seems right.

I assume the difference is more than just engine size and badges, so ball park what is involved?

So I'm in the serious hunt for a 1970 Chevelle convertible. I have looked at a few cars, some Malibus and some Clone SS's. I'm not looking for the real deal, not willing to spend that kind of change and suffer a divorce, but I really like the looks of the SS's.

What does it take to clone an SS the "correct" way. The car will be for me to drive daily and NEVER, repeat NEVER sell. I know some people take issue at cloning a car but some of the ones I've seen have already begun the process, some better than others, so continuing the process seems right.

I assume the difference is more than just engine size and badges, so ball park what is involved?

No issue here with cloning a car.

In point of fact the real differences are more or less what you said. Engine size suspension exhaust, badges, sometimes instruments and a few other things. In order to pull this off (sensibly w/o all the really nitty gritty little things) is not a big deal. All ya need is a list of available options on the SS and access to the parts that made up that option. Nothing special about the SS versus the Plain Jane cars they all came from the same parts bins. All the factory did was stuff a set of options on a standard Chevelle as it moved down the line. Also as you build it you can incorporate late model improvements like the better G-Body power steering boxes and suspension parts as well as electronic ignition and all sorts of other stuff that the purists frown on.

It amazes me that people will pay such a HUGE premium for car that was factory built with the SS options versus building one themselves for FAR less money. Even when they can end up with a BETTER driver for less money they get all foamy at the mouth about Clones. Makes no sense .

I am now getting my suit of armor ready because this is soon gonna be another impashioned post about REAL cars versus the HATED CLONES and how the Clones devalue and debase Western Civilization and how the Clones are sold by Cloners as Real SS cars and how it is illegal to swap ID plates and BLAH BLAH BLAH.

Do what you want with your car and your money and use the rest of the money you don't spend on the real car to get something nice for your wife. Sounds like a reasonable plan to me.

Oh yeah when & if you get ready to sell the car sell it.

What does it take to clone an SS the "correct" way.

There are two reasons to "correctly" clone a SS.

1. To have a nice car that resembles a sporter model and represents it in respect to looks and power.
This is done by installing a period correct drivetrain, suspension, interior and badging.
This can be done by installing a big block (true displacement isn't really a concern), Th400 or M21/M22 Muncie trans, SS dash and SS trim.
This way is not that costly and gets you a very nice looking and powerful driver.

2. To have a car that you can pass off as a true factory SS to defraud someone into paying much more than the car is actually worth.
This is done by removing all markings on the "new" engine, trans and rear. Have them (illegally) restamped to match the cars vin. Spend large amounts of time and money hunting correct parts to completely hide the fact that it was not originally a factory built SS.

My suggestion to you is to go the simple route by adding a BB drivetrain, dash and put the SS badges on your car and enjoy it for what it is.

There is more to "Correcly cloning" a 1970 Chevelle SS than just dropping in a big block/TH400 or 4 speed and 12 bolt, some badges, and a dash board. There are different suspension components, different pieces of trim, different mechanical components, etc and they all vary depending on which specific SS you are wanting yours to resemble to be "Correct Appearing".

I intend on doing this with my 1970 Malibu Convertible so that it is correct appearing in every way to an LS6 car. I'm doing this because A) I'll never afford a real one, B) This is what I want, no intention to pass it off as something it's not, this car is for me...period.

Tom. I agree there is much more to the job. I was giving an "abridged" version.
I will assume that your "correct appearing in every way to an LS6 car" will not include matching engine code and con-vin?

Keep this in mind.....A clone is an absolute genetic reproduction of another living thing. With that said you will find it impossible to "clone" a car. As we have no better word for building something that resembles something else we will use it anyway. Now:

1. A true "cloned" car will be exactly as it was built in the factory.
2. There are only a few true SS cars built to that level of correctness.
3. If you stop at any point short of restoring your car to factory correctness it will only be a modified Malibu. Like my 67. A true SS , even missing it's entire drivetrain , is still considered a SS by many.

My suggestion is from this point do not put a label on the car you build. Build it as you want as that is the only way you will truly be satisfied. Many times you can read and be influenced away from your original intentions of the car. If at any point you do something that you continually apologize for or have to justify you have failed miserably. First and foremost it is the love affair that develops between you and the car.

even though i will get a chevelle in a few years i am looking now to see what prices are, and all i can find is malibu's for sale. i would like to find a cappy chevelle and restore it not a malibu. i would like to do a 70 but i see that they are far and few between. ive looked in hemmings, ebay, and neiborhood newspapers and nothin but malibu's.

We've come to use the word "clone" very loosely.
I don't blame anyone for building a "clone" (look alike)
That's kind of what I'm doing because - 1) I can't afford an original - 2) If I did have the money, it would probably wind up to be a home brewed car with all the fake stuff anway.

Tom. I agree there is much more to the job. I was giving an "abridged" version.
I will assume that your "correct appearing in every way to an LS6 car" will not include matching engine code and con-vin?

If I can find an LS6 block for a reasonable price, I'll use it. I'm not getting into restamping anything. It just gives someone else that may end up owning the car more to try and pass it off as a fake.

If its just that you like the look of the SS, (i did my 70 like that) Sure you get the hood, SS dash, disc brakes, 12 bolt, and 4 speed or turbo 400. The sad thing is most people couldnt tell a real or fake SS if it came up and bit them. Thats why so many people buy a "real" SS then come here and ask the experts, only to find out the spent real SS money on a fake. Dont forget a SS could be had with a bench and column shift.
I would start by finding a nice car, then add the SS parts that you like. Do alot of research as to whats correct and whats not. As long as your happy with it, I wouldnt worry what others think. Just do yourself a favor. If you dont have the money, talent space or time to do a full blown restoration. Save yourself a lot of grief and keep peace in the family by not getting it in your head to take the car down to the frame and have it sitting there costing money and not being able to drive it for years. Believe me, the wife will probably support you for a few months, but after using the hood to fold the clothes on and tripping over the exhaust system. The patience runs our real fast. Your car may not have a cowl hood, or a big block, But its alot easier to justify buying a part for a running car, than a pile of junk sitting in the garage. Jim

IMHO, "Either do it right or don't do it at all". :thumbsup:

I'm with Tom and Dean on this. I could never afford the real deal (and still be married). To me, a clone is building a car with all the correct parts. None of this "just add badges and a dash" stuff.

I'm not using a LS6 block block but everything else is (or will be) the correct parts.

Even a Clone can break you. :yes:

You said the right way. In my opinion this would be the exact way a real SS left the factory in 1970.
You better be ready to spend 100k. No joke. These are just a sample of what you will be buying all these parts are code dated to the original car. Its not easy to find such parts. Im still searhing for about half of it for my LS5. Even the glass in these cars are code dated.

Block 2,500.00
Heads 1,200.00
Intake 450.00
Exhaust manifolds 800.00
Distributor 1000.00
Booster 400.00
Master cylinder 250.00
Tranny 2300.00
Rearend 2000.00
Alternator 225.00
Pulleys 250.00
Fan 200.00
Fan clutch 150.00
Starter 250.00
Bellhousing 300.00
Brake rotors 350.00
Brake drums 200.00
Calipers 200.00
Wheels 1250.00

If I can find an LS6 block for a reasonable price, I'll use it. I'm not getting into restamping anything. It just gives someone else that may end up owning the car more to try and pass it off as a fake.

I have to ask WHY? What makes an LS6 block any different from any other (lower priced) 4 bolt block? This is exactly the point of the post. The parts are the same all that differs are the internal parts of the engine or of the car. The original Malibu and the SS car use the same fender stamping the same frame etc etc etc. The BB engine is functionally the same if it came out of a Suburban or out of a Pickup or out of an LS6 convertible. As soon as you say "If I can find an LS6 block......" you are entering that never never land of huge prices. At the end of the day all you have is a 4 bolt BBC powered driver reguardless of the original installation from which the engine came. If the engine came from a Pickup, Suburban or LS6 convertible the end product of the home built car under discussion here would be the same.

I just cannot get my mind wrapped around the logic. It makes no sense to pay more for something that is functionally equal to another part, and harder to find just because of the original build or designation of that part from the factory.

IMHO, The numbers don't have to match, just the look (correct badges, exterior, interior, engine compartment, etc.)

Like it or not, there are people with deep pockets who will pay crazy money for the right parts to restore their original big dollar car. Look at the price of 499 distributors and the like as an example on e-bay. Depending on the accuracy level of a clone, you may just be money in pocket buying the real car in the first place. A good clone is going to be expensive. The '70 is extra expensive to clone with the cowl induction hood and round gauge dash to add. Back in '97 we bought an L78 Chevelle that needed body and paint work. We spent as much putting the car in shape as we did buying it. Looked expensive then but looks pretty cheap today. I'd be looking for a real car and putting the effort into that.

I have to ask WHY? What makes an LS6 block any different from any other (lower priced) 4 bolt block? This is exactly the point of the post. The parts are the same all that differs are the internal parts of the engine or of the car. The original Malibu and the SS car use the same fender stamping the same frame etc etc etc. The BB engine is functionally the same if it came out of a Suburban or out of a Pickup or out of an LS6 convertible. As soon as you say "If I can find an LS6 block......" you are entering that never never land of huge prices. At the end of the day all you have is a 4 bolt BBC powered driver reguardless of the original installation from which the engine came. If the engine came from a Pickup, Suburban or LS6 convertible the end product of the home built car under discussion here would be the same.

I just cannot get my mind wrapped around the logic. It makes no sense to pay more for something that is functionally equal to another part, and harder to find just because of the original build or designation of that part from the factory.

It's just part of it being "Correct Appearing" is all, no other reason. To be correct , it would have to have a date coded 1970 CRV or CRR block as well as the 291 heads. I have 2 454 complete engines, one of which I plan on dropping in the car until I can get myself an LS6 block. I already have the heads and the intake, whynot get the last piece of the puzzle :). The only thing I won't acquire is a 437 distributor, I refuse to pay that kind of $$ for a POS points distributor.

I had to draw the line on the 512 Block. I did want the heads, intake and carb, but you can make a 500HP Thumper with any Mark IV bottom end.

But then again, I wasn't starting from scratch as I already had the block.

I can see it if your parts collecting waiting for the build and you come across the ideal block.


The only thing is, how easy it then becomes, if you make a perfect clone, for somebody to re-stamp the dated 512 and make your car a fraud that costs people 10's of thousands every time it changes hands.

I feel better with the Truck Block for that reason.

It's just part of it being "Correct Appearing" is all, no other reason. To be correct , it would have to have a date coded 1970 CRV or CRR block as well as the 291 heads. I have 2 454 complete engines, one of which I plan on dropping in the car until I can get myself an LS6 block. I already have the heads and the intake, whynot get the last piece of the puzzle :). The only thing I won't acquire is a 437 distributor, I refuse to pay that kind of $$ for a POS points distributor.

I guess we just draw the line at a different point. You run out of $$$$ at the distributor and I get cold feet way earlier in the process. Once the process gets started it is very hard to say "No Mas"..."Enough. Believe me I have seen it happen to me more than once.

Funny what you say about the distrib. I have an XAA LS6 (Service / Crate ) motor in my car. I run an MSD billet that uses a stock GM cap. Looks original (well sorta if you ignore the polished aluminum dist housing) and it has the benefits of the elect guts. Looks "close enough" for me and incorporates none of the POS points that you mention.

This is where the hobby is taking me. To hell with all the super priced super rare parts and original SS cars. 25 years of technology improvement is available in the aftermarket. The way things are going the NEWER BETTER STUFF is actually CHEAPER than the original stuff.

Your absolutely right on it simply being a matter of where you draw the line. That applies to just about everything in this hobby. And every question.

As for the distributor.

I took a stock GM Points Distributor, converted to a magnetic signaling device, and spliced an MSD Box into the correct wiring harness and running the power wires to the starter wrapped within the harness tape.

Original points cap, Coil, and dated plug wires.

MSD under the dash Pad on top of the glove box shell.

Total stealth.

Thanks for all the replies.

Here is where I'm going with this. I've gone the route of factory correct restorations before. I did a nut and bolt resto on a 1970 Triumph 650 Tiger and I'm currently working on a 1930 Harley Davidson with a side car. Both of these are/will be factory correct resto's as if the bikes came off the line.

The car is something I want to drive around everyday the weather is nice. Take it to work, take the wife and kids out to dinner, to the beach, something the whole family can enjoy. The part I like about the SS's are the cowl induction and the stripes. Also I hate sweeping dashes and I love tachometers! I like bucket seats and consoles. I also like disk brakes and newer suspensions. So actually I think I'll be heading toward a "clone light," the looks of a SS with upgraded suspension and brakes.

I know this can be a money pit and I don't intened on getting my money back. The bottom line it seems to me like it isn't all that difficult to take a plain jane and turn it into the car you like. Now I just need to find a car!

Anyone selling?

Peter

Peter if possible quit calling it a clone. It will never be one. Sounds like you want a nicely built car. Done right nothing will ever change that.

Is what I'm looking at doing more like a resto mod? It's a matter of symantecs but just curious.

Is what I'm looking at doing more like a resto mod? It's a matter of symantecs but just curious.
If it's a top shelf "clone", I would call it a "recreation" or a "tribute car". :yes: