Dwell Setting [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Dwell Setting


compease
Feb 7th, 08, 3:55 PM
Hi everyone:
I am doing my first tune up does any one no the Dwell setting for the points on a 1970 chevelle 454 LS5. The parts guy gave my the points setting but didnt no the dwell. Also does anyone no the timing settings also.
Thanks

d1_bradley
Feb 7th, 08, 4:10 PM
Dwell at 30*, timing at 8* initial, vacuum plugged. (set the dwell FIRST)

kettbo
Feb 7th, 08, 4:15 PM
Get a Crane or Pertronix electronic ign conversion and forget all about points!

animal69
Feb 7th, 08, 4:22 PM
Wrong forum!

compease
Feb 7th, 08, 4:47 PM
Thanks Bradley for the help.

Twins Fan
Feb 8th, 08, 2:11 AM
If you need a dwell meter, give me a pm.

huffhuff
Feb 8th, 08, 8:45 AM
specs are usually 28-32. i was taught to set at 30.

350_Malibu
Feb 8th, 08, 10:22 AM
Get a Crane or Pertronix electronic ign conversion and forget all about points!

x2

Or go HEI!

Gary S
Feb 8th, 08, 12:15 PM
If your distributor lobes are in good shape and don't show wear from years of use, you most likely will never have to set dwell. The official way to tuneup a Chevy distributor is to use a dwell meter, but I've never needed one on a Chevy V8. The design of the Chevy V8 distributors is so good that all you need to do when you install new points is to start the engine, stick the allen wrench in the side of the distributor, and turn it clockwise until the engine starts to miss. Then back out 1/2 turn and drive it until the points are worn out. Then repeat the process. I've done this for 40 years and when I do it this way, I've found that I can check it with a dwell meter and it will be right before connecting the dwell meter.

Now, if you have worn lobes on the distributor, then this won't work, but the dwell meter won't allow you to set up the correct dwell either because of the worn out distributor.

Keith Tedford
Feb 8th, 08, 6:10 PM
I have a dwell meter and use Accel HD points, not the racing version. They are probably good for 10K miles or more and that's a few years with the miles we put on our cars. The points are usually pretty close as they come in the box with only minor adjusting needed. The Car Starts fine. Our L78 car came with an HEI when we bought it in 1997. Worked fine too but when it died, it was DEAD. I like the stock look and if it works fine, so much the better. Why complicate things.

rocks66ss
Feb 8th, 08, 7:32 PM
I have a dwell meter and use Accel HD points, not the racing version. They are probably good for 10K miles or more and that's a few years with the miles we put on our cars. The points are usually pretty close as they come in the box with only minor adjusting needed. The Car Starts fine. Our L78 car came with an HEI when we bought it in 1997. Worked fine too but when it died, it was DEAD. I like the stock look and if it works fine, so much the better. Why complicate things.


I too have the stock distributor in my car and I use the Accell 8104 high rpm points with the 32 oz spring. I still have the Craftsman engine analyzer I bought in the summer of 73, I am also still using the same Sun gun that I got about the same time. It's one of those things I like to tinker with, and it's just part of the persona of my car.



Rocky

prefectca
Feb 8th, 08, 8:35 PM
In 1974 a friend of mine bought a 1973 Laguna s-3 with a 454. In 1978 it wouldn't start at the grocery store. He called me and we went up to see what was wrong. It had no spark and when I removed the distributor cap the movable point had bent at the end because it was nearly burnt through. I changed the points and the car was good to go. I asked when the points were changed last and he said he had NEVER changed them. The car had a little over 80K miles on what I assume were the original points!

bikeron
Feb 8th, 08, 8:49 PM
I love electronics. I love working in electronics as an engineer. I use electronics in my Chevelle (MSD and Fuel injection).
Having said all that, if I wanted a car that was ultimately reliable (meaning if anything went wrong and I needed to fix it on the side of the road, I would have an ignition system with points backed by a transistor switch (to take the current out of the contacts on the points and make them last a long time). If the transistor failed I would bypass it just use the points and drive off.
Oh yes, I would obviously use a carb too.
Nothing but nothing starts like a point system, no need for multiple turns of the motor like with electronic systems. MSD's come close though.
Gary S. is right about adjusting the points until a miss then back off a half turn. No meters needed.

Again, it can be done on the side of the road with only minimal tools.

Ron

Keith Tedford
Feb 8th, 08, 8:53 PM
I still have the Delco-Remy transistor ignition kit that used the points as a trigger only. Started the 427 at -32F. I have never seen another one of these kits.

bikeron
Feb 8th, 08, 9:02 PM
I still have the Delco-Remy transistor ignition kit that used the points as a trigger only. Started the 427 at -32F. I have never seen another one of these kits.

The Delco systems were the best. I believe the transistors came from Motorola.
They don't have much in the way of wear out mechanisms so they will last for probably 50 to 100 years...
Ron