I will be going on Power Tour this year. I wanted to have a new motor built to have a little get up and go and I don't have time or the money to finish it in by then. Over the last year I have collected 90% of what I am adding and far and suspension and brakes. All I need is tires and wheels.
Tire size size not in stone yet but I am leaning toward 285-40-18 rear and 245-45-18 for the front on 10"s and 8"s I'm going to pull the body off the frame fully detail it and install all my parts. For now the 330 will stay and just get a rattle can rebuild and a few gaskets.

Here is the wheel I am 99% sure on but I will paint them like the Photoshop pic below. I feel it gives a very old school yet modern look to the wheels.


http://introwheels.com/images/img_w_exposed_5/Ram5_500.jpg

http://www.deadzoom.com/member/gearheads78/66olds/bitchenwheels.jpg

the photoshop picture looks very nice. I like it much better

Are those polished Intro Vistas. The painted ones look great.

Are those polished Intro Vistas. The painted ones look great.

Its a similar wheel to the Vista. Its called the Ram 5. The paint is my doing. The final product should be slightly darker. I know the move seems to be toward high tech looking wheels on PT cars. They look great on certain cars but I don't really consider mine a PT car. More of a Retromod with the PT themed suspension. Body will be a perfect restoration with all stainless ect back on the car. I have been thinking about wheels for months and I think these will be perfect.

Tire size size not in stone yet but I am leaning toward 285-40-18 rear and 245-45-18 for the front on 10"s and 8"s

I recommend you go with 245/40-18 for the front tires.

On my El Camino I have 295/45-18 on the rear and the front started with 245/45-18, which looked too tall. Next, I had 255/35-18 and they looked too short! Now I have 245/40-18 and you guessed it, they look just right!:yes:

I recommend you go with 245/40-18 for the front tires.

On my El Camino I have 295/45-18 on the rear and the front started with 245/45-18, which looked too tall. Next, I had 255/35-18 and they looked too short! Now I have 245/40-18 and you guessed it, they look just right!:yes:

Thanks for the tip. Luckily I work for a Lexus dealership and have access to junk tires. The LS430 uses a 245-45-18 and I have one of this to look at at home. The SC430 uses a 245-40-18. Looking at it on those cars it looks too short and thats where I was thinking the 245-45.

Do you have any pics of both sides on your car?
Thanks

I have been dragging home junk tires from work for the last couple of weeks. I could not come up with anything for the back so I ordered these from one of our tire suppliers. I have to mock up my suspension and brake to be sure but I am 98% certain I have my tire combo figured out.
255-40-18 on a 18 x 9 and 285-40-18 on 18 x 10

http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/7889/3908001id8.jpg

http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/3305/3908002oc4.jpg

http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/2144/3908003dr8.jpg

those rims look good, but give jon at driversinc a call. the sale is over, but i know he can get you some awesome prices. if you put some rushforths on there, theyll almost be like one offs.

i may have missed it, but what are they going on?

Tim

those rims look good, but give jon at driversinc a call. the sale is over, but i know he can get you some awesome prices. if you put some rushforths on there, theyll almost be like one offs.

i may have missed it, but what are they going on?

Tim

Rushforths look good on some cars but not the look I want.

The wheels are for my 66 Cutlass in the sig. The too narrow Billet specialties wheels are gone. The goal is to get as much tire as I can without cutting at all.

Lots of work to do but I am sticking with my original plan. 2 months before Power Tour are going to fly by.

Got it mocked up with tires under the car at what will be ride height.
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/4907/66cutlasstires003la0.jpg

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/6950/66cutlasstires006ov3.jpg

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6318/66cutlasstires005ll4.jpg

Got all the suspension out of it to mock up the new suspension and brakes tomarrow. I should have all the data I need to order wheels.
http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/1314/66cutlasstires007bk4.jpg

8.5 rear thats going under it.
http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/1765/66cutlasstires008bo7.jpg

:eek:

Awesome mockup.
I'm really looking forward to seeing the next installment of pics.

Thanks. After spending most of the day taking measurments I know the meaning of 11 lbs of
stuff in a 10 lb bag.

I ordered my wheels this morning. I am still going Intro's but decided a slightly different style at the last second. I will keep everyone posted.

the photoshop picture looks very nice. I like it much better

X2...:thumbsup:

X2...:thumbsup:


Thanks I will be doing the same thing with the paint but it will be on this wheel.
It will be a 10" with 6.625" BS so the dish won't look near as deep.

FYI I was already commited to a price on the wheels and was OK with it. I placed my order with Dustin though pm's on Pro Touring. He came back to let me know they are having a GP for any 2 or 3 piece wheels and its going to save me another $100. If anyone is looking for wheels right now I suggest talking with them.
http://www.introwheels.com/images/img_w_exposed_5/v-rod_5_500.jpg

measuring for front and rear wheel clearance

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/2079/66cutlasstires009tq7.jpg
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/2559/66cutlasstires010vu9.jpg

made some brackets for the brake new emergency brake cables. Ready for refinish.

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/4026/66cutlasstires012wz4.jpg
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/4417/66cutlasstires013qa0.jpg

Todays progress only 48 days till power tour :eek:

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/1025/66cutlasstires016zk9.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/1706/66cutlasstires017vr0.jpg

You will be a busy man for 40 day's and 40 night's:thumbsup:

Once you remove the body from the frame.... It's like pulling the pin on a grenade.... it just explodes from there .... :D

lookin' good! I am itching and scared about pulling my body off. lol.

Rear bumper had a couple of pretty good dents so I dropped it off at the plater this morning.

Got the brackets for the rear brake lines made up and welded today. Also got the housing stripped down ready to go to the powder coater.
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/6900/66cutlasstires023ej8.jpg


Lots more dissasmebly only 42 days
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/5844/66cutlasstires027om5.jpg

http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/1369/66cutlasstires025gj0.jpg

:thumbsup:

1 Busy Mofo

Almost 1/2 way there. Just about everything thats coming apart is now apart. I dropped off lots of stuff to the plater late Saturday. Going to do lots of parts in white and black zinc for an OEM look to everything even though its all custom.

I already told my boss I will be in late on Monday. I hope to have this stuff at the powder coaters when they open.

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3955/66cutlasstires029xx3.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7385/66cutlasstires028uk6.jpg

I picked up my slightly modified C6 Corvette calipers tonight after work. What do you think? I don't know if I am the first to do this but I have never seen it done.


http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/8421/66cutlasstirestk4.jpg

Little bit of progress this weekend. Still a few days before I get the cad/zinc plating and the powder coated stuff back. I worked of prepping some of the stuff I still have here.

455 won't be built for a while so the orginal 330 will go back in for now. The motor was pulled down to a bare long block and scaped, chisled, and wire brushed 42 years worth of grease and grime. Also resealed everything back up with new gaskets. Little bit more cleaning and motor will be ready for a fresh coat of Oldsmobile gold.

The rest of the time was spent cleaning, sand blasting and painting lots of misc parts.

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/1989/66cutlasstires031rx1.jpg

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/7324/66cutlasstires030cw3.jpg

Two phone calls today. One was from the machine shop the other from the plater.

Since I am using LS1 F-body rear brakes on a stock 72 rear there is nothing to hold in the factory bolt in axles tight. I had these spacers made to take care of that. I also had them cut down the front hubs to clear the C6 Corvette front rotors. the last thing I had them do was cut the stud holes to .503 to get the correct interference fit with my aftermarket ARP metric studs. I cut them down to 2.200 so they will still be long but stay under the closed end lug nuts.

The plating I am extreemly happy with. I had old greasy rusty original parts and new gold cad after market parts parts. I did not like the look of either. Anything that did not go to the powder coater went to the plater. After this I don't think I will ever clean a rusty bolt again. Below is just some of the stuff.

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/1528/66cutlasstires037ve2.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/7726/66cutlasstires032sm1.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/6864/66cutlasstires033mu6.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/5739/66cutlasstires036mb0.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/5139/66cutlasstires035zk8.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2452/66cutlasstires034us5.jpg

I got some high heat primer and Fusicks gold on the motor tonight. I should have waited till a daytime I could do it. The bugs and trash were getting in it like crazy. The intake and block still look great because the rough cast iron hides the imperfections. The pan and valve cover don't look to good up close. I will probably redo the valve covers since they are so visible.

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5007/66cutlasstires039fw4.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3762/66cutlasstires040ci2.jpg

Looks like you're making good progress! Hopefully you'll have enough time for a little road testing prior to heading out on the PT!

Well its over a week later than quoted but I finally got my pieces back from the coater tonight. Do these things come with instructions ? :D

23 days left. Oh Shhhhh**

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/6264/66cutlasstires044sg9.jpg

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3386/66cutlasstires045tz7.jpg

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3229/66cutlasstires046qr5.jpg

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/2586/66cutlasstires047od8.jpg

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9669/66cutlasstires048zh5.jpg

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/6779/66cutlasstires043sy3.jpg

I was off today and worked in the shop most of the day. Lots of minor progress. A few steps forward and a step back :oops:

I started getting things ready for the manual conversion with the TKO600.
My first thisng to do was see if and how much I needed to drill the crank for input shaft clearance. In process of measuring I noticticed the pilot bearing I got was out of spec. I called Supercars and they are rushing another out.

I did need to bore the crank. I went to a local industrial machine tool surplus store and picked up a couple bits to drill the hard crank material. One was a 1/4" and the other .798 to give me plenty of clearance from the input shaft. I love that place $10.00 for both bits.

I knew it would never be perfect with a hand drill but I wanted to get as close as I could. To do this I set the motor on wood blocks and shimmed it up until it was level at the pan rails. I the drilled at a slow speed and used the bubble on the drill to keep it level up and down. I eyeballed the side to side by having a long bolt to the crank to reference to. About a full hour of drilling I'm sure glad that is over.

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/2869/66cutlasstires055ls8.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7039/66cutlasstires054ll9.jpg

Since I got powdercoating back. I also got my scatter shield from them. Luckily I had read the it would need clearanced for the lower pushrod. They had already blasted but I called before it was coated. I mocked it up and trimmed it off with a plasma cutter.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/1117/66cutlasstires050dw5.jpg

The next thing I did was check the runout of the bellhousing. Its just a hair out of recommended specs but better safe than sorry I ordered some .007 off set dowel to correct it.

I tried to remove the dowels with vise grips and a little heat but all they would do is spin. I decided to make a makeshift puller by tacking a 1/2" nut on the dowels. I then took a 1/2" bolt and another nut and pull them right out by pressing against the back side of a larger socket. They came right out.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/2590/66cutlasstires049qw0.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/1394/66cutlasstires052lr9.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9373/66cutlasstires051rn5.jpg


The last thing of the night was work on the front lower control arms. Iv'e done bushings and ball joints a few times but never with nice new finshed pieces. The ball joints worked out pretty good. I used duct tape and pieces of broken up paint sticks to push against. It worked out great with no damage to the finish.

I then went to the bushings and things didn't go quite as well. My first idea was to just put both bushings in and press against each other till they seat. WRONG!!! The arm started bending and when I released pressure it did not defect all the way back. Now I have to figure out a way to bend it back without damaging the finish. I've got an idea I will try Sunday when I am off again.

The next arm I did a different way and it worked great. I got a piece of 1/2" all thread to pull against. I then cut a piece of pipe to just smaller than the inside width cut it in half and wraped with tape. I then cut a piece of 3/8" plate in a circle and drilled a hole in the middle. I welded that to a 2" iron pipe coupler and wrapped with tape. Then slid the halves to keep the end of the arm from pushing together. Finally bolted it all together untill the shells were seated. Once I made the tool all 4 bushing were took less than 10 min total.

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9479/66cutlasstires053nj1.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7187/66cutlasstires056xb5.jpg

No progress today but the parts pile did get 4 boxes bigger 8)

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/6404/66cutlasstires058og2.jpg

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/2595/66cutlasstires059fz2.jpg

very cool. My new wheels will be here Wednesday. I am going to the wire for Power Tour, but what's new............... :D

I'll be looking for you!

Jody

Damn, wish I did that with my nice and shiny control arms! I didn't think about protecting the finish. Nice job

Damn, wish I did that with my nice and shiny control arms! I didn't think about protecting the finish. Nice job

Thanks, This is the first time I have ever really spent money building a car. I gotta do everything I can protecting the money spent. Usually I would just knock the big chunks of grease off, spray a little black and call it done. This one is is a little different. :yes:


very cool. My new wheels will be here Wednesday. I am going to the wire for Power Tour, but what's new............... :D

I'll be looking for you!

Jody

Cool....If you park anywhere near me please put a car cover over yours. That way someone might look toward mine. :D

I had to work Satuday but I was off today and got some stuff done.

The first order of business was to see if I could fix the front control arm that I bent in the press last week. My idea worked using a long piece of all thread. The nuts were able to bend it back in to place. It was a relief not to have to find another control arm.
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/937/66cutlasstires062ts8.jpg

I was able to pick up my rear end housing on Friday night. I friend set up the new Eaton posi and a set of used GM 3.73's out of a late model Chevy truck. I made another press tool to get the upper bushings in. The LH side is so close that I had to hack off a large part of the circle to get it to clear.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/9204/66cutlasstires061xg6.jpg
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/652/66cutlasstires060vm1.jpg

When you order SPC arms with screw in upper ball joints there come already assembled. I did not want the gold cad finish so I had them sent apart so I could get them plated silver. I found a socket but it only came in 3/4 drive so I asked the techs at my office if anyone had a rachet I could borrow. Well I got one. I am calling this the "GODZILLA" wrench. :shock:
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/2399/66cutlasstires063cv7.jpg

It would be too much to ask for things to just bolt together. The upper Currie Trac arm would not get close to fitting on the LH side. I had to ruin thier nice powder coating and notch a bunch of material off the inside edge. Few coats of Semigloss spray paint and it was back in business.
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/4083/66cutlasstires064pm8.jpg

For the most part the rest of eveything went smooth. Got the new 3/8 fuel line to upgrade from the original 5/16 line so it will be ready for the future 455. All the rear suspension and part of the front suspension is now together. Also got the motor frame pads but on. Its starting to look like it might be a car again. :D
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/798/66cutlasstires065br7.jpg
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/5093/66cutlasstires066rf9.jpg
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/9964/66cutlasstires067kf9.jpg
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/5404/66cutlasstires068qp3.jpg

Well guys it does not look like its going to happen. I am over the budget I gave myself and still short about $500.00 for some mis stuff I need to finish. I was fortunate enough to get myself out of dept last year and I refuse to go back in. In addition the powder coating taking an extra 8 days just threw off my already very tight schedule. I could just slam it together and still make it but I have come this far already I just don't want to cut any corners. My wife has been very understanding but my 2yo daughter is having I hard time with me comming straight home eating and going out to the garage every night for the last month so I need to spend some time with her.

I already have the time off for PT and some money set aside for the trip so I am going to supprise them both and spend a few days down in South TX at the beach.

On to project update........

When I went to assemble my rear E-brake assemblies I noticed I was missing two little pins. My guess is they fell through the screen when I had the harware cleaned up and zinc plated. The only way to get that pin is a 100.00 kit from GM.

I dicided to make them and it turned out pretty good. I borrowed one out of a friends Camaro to copy. I used 1/4" grade 8 bolts to make two new ones. I chucked the bolt up in a drill and ground off the head will a bench grinder while the drill was spinning to keep it uniform. I used a file while the drill was spinning to sneak up on the size. Then 180 sand paper and finally 400 emery cloth to polish the tips. My finished pieces are with in
.004 of the of what the factory ones are long. Few hours work was a whole lot better than $100.00 to get new ones.
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/8306/66cutlasstires042wl0.jpg

After greasing up the front bearings and installing the hubs I slipped on the C6 rotors. I one side I could see a bad wobble. I put a dial indicator on it and it was .035 tolerence on the runout. I took that rotor to work to check it on a brake lathe and it was fine. Now I was thinking I had a bent hub so I but the indicator on it. Luckiy the problem was a high spot on the face of the hub. I few minutes with a hand file and it was level with the rest of the hub. Now the runout is only .004 on that side. Much better.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/4539/66cutlasstires069ni1.jpg
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/6503/66cutlasstires070tj9.jpg

Only other thing I have done is finish the front suspension and steering. I ordered the wrong drag link. I did not know there were two different sizes. I ordered a 7/8 and need a 13/16. I thought to save time and $$ I cleaned up the original and installed it but it has a little play in one of the joints so its going to come back off. Now I need to oder a 13/16 link or find a pitman and idler for the 7/8 one.

The last thing I did Saturday was test fit a wheel to get an idea where to run the hard lines so the still clear the 9" wheels up front. I sure do like that last picture.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/5452/66cutlasstires072zi5.jpg
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/5720/66cutlasstires073rw1.jpg
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/3296/66cutlasstires071mc1.jpg

Today was a bust. As far as the project. I spent the morning with my daughter and went outside mid day. I planned on building brake lines. After making one of the rear axle lines I went to flare the end. Just as the tool started to seat I heard a pop. The insert for the double flare broke :x
http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/7611/66cutlasstires093lc8.jpg

Only other thing I did was spend a few hours on the front calipers. I filed, sanded and smoothed all the machine marks and casting texture and flash. I can't wait to get these painted. They are one of my favorite things about the whole build.
http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/4514/66cutlasstires075xh7.jpg

Waiting on a new hydraulic flare tool to do my brake lines. I did get the wheels painted and mounted the tires today. I can't wait to see the body down over these.

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/9310/66cutlasstires106eq0.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/8929/66cutlasstires105dw1.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/5594/66cutlasstires104vz9.jpg

Wow, great build and great pics.

How do you find the time to do all this with a family? You must have a forgiving wife, better get her something nice! ;)

Looking nice there!!!!

Those little pins sure are a pain in th ass on the LS1 rears. I'm doing the same rear disc swap. Your modified ebrake brackets came out pretty nice.

Also had that same runout issue with the front drum hubs. One of my hubs was off just a little bit. I had my buddy at work take his lathe to the face of the hub and smooth it out. Should be fine now.

Great reading so far! :thumbsup:

It would be too much to ask for things to just bolt together. The upper Currie Trac arm would not get close to fitting on the LH side. I had to ruin thier nice powder coating and notch a bunch of material off the inside edge. Few coats of Semigloss spray paint and it was back in business.
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/4083/66cutlasstires064pm8.jpgI'm wondering why the Currie arm had to be modified. Do the 8.5 rears have a different shape in that area? Maybe the Currie arm was designed for a 12 bolt which may have a different shape around the ear? This might be worth a phone call to them so they can warn potential customers.

Wow, great build and great pics.

How do you find the time to do all this with a family? You must have a forgiving wife, better get her something nice! ;)

Thanks. Iv'e got a good wife. My practice wife I used to have slowly but surely got me to sell off and get rid of any car parts and projects I had. She still was not happy and finally I left her. I was 28 at the time and someone who I thought was a friend told her where I had all my tools I had been collecting since I was a teenager. A few years had passed and I was back in to cars and starting to collect tools again I met me wife. She knew from day one I am a car guy and they will never go away. She still stuck around and we have been happily married for over 5 years now.

Looking nice there!!!!

Those little pins sure are a pain in th ass on the LS1 rears. I'm doing the same rear disc swap. Your modified ebrake brackets came out pretty nice.

Also had that same runout issue with the front drum hubs. One of my hubs was off just a little bit. I had my buddy at work take his lathe to the face of the hub and smooth it out. Should be fine now.

Thank for the props

Great reading so far! :thumbsup:

I'm wondering why the Currie arm had to be modified. Do the 8.5 rears have a different shape in that area? Maybe the Currie arm was designed for a 12 bolt which may have a different shape around the ear? This might be worth a phone call to them so they can warn potential customers.

Thanks. The 8.5" case is very thick up by the LH ear. I learned a long time ago that after market parts will need to be modifed from time to time. Its all just part of building a hotrod.
That being said the cut was made with my Birthday present to myself this year. I recommend anyone to go by a plasma cutter now if you don't have one. I seem to find a new reason to use it every week. Don't know how I lived without it.

Excellent job and I like your ideas for the home-made tools you constructed.

Best of Luck! :thumbsup:

Respectfully,
John R.

Excellent job and I like your ideas for the home-made tools you constructed.

Best of Luck! :thumbsup:

Respectfully,
John R.

Thanks I have a drawer full of home made tools all ugly but functional

Not too much to report today. I had to work most of the weekend but I did get in the garage a few hours tonight.

About a week ago I discovered I have a small problem as I was fitting up the rear brakes. The rotor was not centered in the caliper basket. After a little research on line I saw the other people are running washers or buying a spacer to bring out the backplate. Someone makes one intended for Camaros and Chevelles but it is 3/16" thick. I spaced mine out 3/16 with washers and it was too far. I get it very close to center on my Olds rear with .125" so I decided to make some spacers.

Now that I will bring the backplate out it creates another problem. I had thick spacers made at a machine shop to go between the factory bearing retainer and the axle seal and bearing. Now the spacer will be .125 too short. I'm not going to pay to have them made again so I made spacers for my spacers. Since I already have to cut a hole in the other spacers cut a second hole in the center first and then cut the outer ring. By doing it this way I am basicly making my bearing spacer when I cut the center out of the backplate spacer.

Here is the 1/8" plate marked up before cutting.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/6888/66cutlasstires107pu9.jpg

Here is the new bearing retainer spacers next to the machined spacer. It's hard to hold the plasma torch steady going arong the circle but they are close enough that a little time on the bench grinder they will be ready to use.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/5990/66cutlasstires108xr8.jpg

This is me cheating to make a nice straight cut with the plasma. Just clamped a piece of steal spaced away from my line so the torch cuts right on the line.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/4459/66cutlasstires112xs7.jpg

Here is the rough finished backplate spacer. Little bit of time with a file and it will be ready for a quick coat of paint.
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/1107/66cutlasstires113jn9.jpg

snip~Thanks I have a drawer full of home made tools all ugly but functional

Not too much to report today. I had to work most of the weekend but I did get in the garage a few hours tonight.

An old Indy car driver turned mechanic told me about forty years ago that if he didn't have a tool for a job, he's make one. Sound familiar? ;)

Not joking here. Have you considered taking the test for MENSA? I took it last year and I was a couple of points short of the minimum score. :(

Respectfully,
John R.

An old Indy car driver turned mechanic told me about forty years ago that if he didn't have a tool for a job, he's make one. Sound familiar? ;)

Not joking here. Have you considered taking the test for MENSA? I took it last year and I was a couple of points short of the minimum score. :(

Respectfully,
John R.

Without sounding too stupid whats MENSA??

Without sounding too stupid whats MENSA??


:rolleyes: In that case, nevermind, but if you're still curious, GOOGLE it. ;)

Respectfully,
John R.

^
dude, go easy on the Texans!
:D

Without sounding too stupid whats MENSA??

It's a club for really, really smart people.
http://www.mensa.org/

Because some of us are mensa members...

Your build is incredible. Very nice work you are doing there.

You sir, are doing the Oldsmobile name very very proud. March on my Cutlass brother!

i need a fix...post some more progress pix!!!

:rolleyes: In that case, nevermind, but if you're still curious, GOOGLE it. ;)

Respectfully,
John R.

Once i looked it up I had heard about it but did not know a bunch about it. I did take the one line quiz and it said I had a very good score and there is a good chance I could pass a real test. It probably tells everyone that LOL

Your build is incredible. Very nice work you are doing there.

Thanks I can't wait to get it on the road and then take it apart again for the new motor and then again for paint. :clonk:

You sir, are doing the Oldsmobile name very very proud. March on my Cutlass brother!

Thanks do I know you from an Olds board?

i need a fix...post some more progress pix!!!

Sorry for no updates. I just got back from a quick vacation with the family. Seeing my 2yo splash in the ocean waves was well worth my time off.

I spent the whole day Thurs catching up on yard work and working around the house.
now for the bad news....

About 6:00 I went out the garage to get a little done on the car. I'm sitting on a milk crate inside the back of the frame fabricating new brake lines. I'm stooped over picking up and setting down the tools involved and all of the sudden I basicly can't move. I have the worst pain I have ever had comming from my lower back. I have had a sore back and other aches and pains before but nothing like this. I can't stand, sit, walk or even lay down in most positions without lots of pain. I took both Advil and Aleive today and neither put a dent in it

I had to go to work today so it did not help matters. I hope it will go away on its own this weekend. The last thing I need is to find out is its something serious. I guess I will give it untill Monday and see how I feel. looks like a weekend of laying around doing nothing for me. :pout:

sound like a pinched nerve in your back from bulging disc, I have had the same problems for 18 year now, I am 36! Seek help now and do not prolong it like I have done all these years! Sorry to hear the bad news.

sound like a pinched nerve in your back from bulging disc, I have had the same problems for 18 year now, I am 36! Seek help now and do not prolong it like I have done all these years! Sorry to hear the bad news.

Thanks I seem to be doing a lot better now.





I finally got a little done on the car today. My back is still a little sore so I was going slow and taking it easy.

I the task I needed to accomplish is to build brake lines from scratch. i am switching to 3/16" front to rear line to match what was on the car the the brakes came off of. Pre-made lines only come in 1/4" so I just ordered 20' of stainless 3/16. I think it all came out good. I used the factory retainers and added a few of my own. The are Krugel line clamps I picked up at a local street rod shop.

I was origially going to run a 67 dual res. distribution block with a Wilwood proportioning valve. I changes plans when I found that Summit sells a block with a build in valve. I did not want to mount it showing in the engine compartment so I mounted it under the car. I made a bracket thar bolted to the original gear selector bracket holes in the frame.

Made a template out of cardboard to get an idea of what I wanted.
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/9582/66cutlasstires132fg8.jpg

I then cut it out of 1/8" plate with a plasma cutter
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/766/66cutlasstires131zw3.jpg

After drilling, grinding, shaping with a torch in the vise this is the finished piece ready for paint
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/4702/66cutlasstires133ve4.jpg

Finished in semi-gloss black and installed.
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/2924/66cutlasstires136en0.jpg

Here are the rest of the brake lines installed from the block back. I will try to do the fronts Sunday
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/2892/66cutlasstires135rw8.jpg

http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/2192/66cutlasstires134so0.jpg

Kick A$$ build! Hope you back gets better.

Kick A$$ build! Hope you back gets better.

Thanks back is alot better. I should be making progress again soon. My last two days off I have spent thoughly cleaning and rearranging my garage. It something that really should have been done before I started but I wanted to jump on it. Shop is now laid out much better so I should be more efficient.

Things for been going slow the last few weeks. My boss has been on vacation so I have been working extra to keep up with his duties and mine.

Today I finally got a little work done. I am a little gun shy on my back still so I have been working slow and paying much more attention to how I move and bend.

I did lots of odds and ends that are not worthy of pictures. I did manage to build the front brake lines and get the motor/trans mocked up in the chassis to measure for the driveshaft. I still have to get the calipers powder coated and have the driveshaft built. Once thats done the rolling chassis can be finished up.

The boss did stop in and check on progress. Number one question from her has been "Daddy when are you going to finish the 'vertible" She is ready to start riding again.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/5858/66cutlasstires142ps7.jpg

When I built the rear brake lines my cheapie parts store bender got the job done. The the front I needed some sharper bends and much closer together than my bender is capable of. I scrounged up some 3/4" all thread and nuts to make up a quicky home made bender. It worked great.
http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/5517/66cutlasstires137yb6.jpg

Here is the finished front lines. I will wait for the body to be back on the chassis before building the feed lines.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/8524/66cutlasstires138tr7.jpg

One thing I was not sure about has how the rear crossmember was going to work out. After mocking it up with the tranmission it place I found out its going to be a cake walk. I will be able to use one exhisting hole and drill one new hole in the frame braket on each side.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/3120/66cutlasstires144ct3.jpg

Even thought it was only temporary to measure for a driveshaft it sure was nice to see a motor sitting in place.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/9069/66cutlasstires143js6.jpg

Its hard to find a place to stop LOL

I was originally going to just do a quick wash and rattle can the firewall. Since I no longer have a target date I took it a little farther. The rest of the engine compartment will look so clean and detailed so I have to make this pretty too.

Used a heat gun and a wood paint stick to get the old undercoating and black body sealer off. The paint stick works good and does not gouge the metal. I left all the original white seam sealer.

I used a DA with 120 everywhere I could and finished by hand in all the nooks and crannies. I then shot it with 2K direct to metal primer. I have some Eastwood chassis black but its laquer and I was afraid if might attack the primer. I will try to find some paint this week.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/7840/66cutlasstires145ys8.jpg

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/4586/66cutlasstires171px1.jpg

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/5839/66cutlasstires172fl3.jpg

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/612/66cutlasstires174au1.jpg

use single stage enamel and mix it 50/50 with flattening agent. Works really well.

use single stage enamel and mix it 50/50 with flattening agent. Works really well.

Carlos, I like the 50/50 color sheen, can I get you to do the same to my fire wall and radiator core support :beers:

use single stage enamel and mix it 50/50 with flattening agent. Works really well.

I stoped at a local street rod shop called Sachse Rod Shop today. The painted was nice enough to let me walk around the shop and look at in process cars until I saw the color of black I wanted. Once I pointed out something we gave me a PPG sheet that tells exactly he mixes it. I thinks its call semigloss eggshell. I hope to try it out Sunday.






This week after work I have been getting some little parts painted. Rattle canned I few things but did not com out as nice as I wanted so I am using real paint from a gun.

First sand blasting all the old paint and surface rust. I then been hitting with 120 DA to smooth out the basted parts but still leave some bite for the primer. I robbed a floor shift column out of a 66 Lemans. It was really nasty field car piece. Its looking better than new.

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/2834/66cutlasstires180ga9.jpg

Next was a couple coats of 2K urethan primer followed by 400 paper to be ready for final paint

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/5276/66cutlasstires182fa0.jpg

Here are a couple of finished pieces. I am very happy with my results for never painting anything with a gun before. I've used it to shoot some primer but thats all. This is good practice before I paint the firewall.

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/9940/66cutlasstires181ap0.jpg

I am really looking forward to seeing this thing done. Awesome Build!!

I am really looking forward to seeing this thing done. Awesome Build!!


Thanks...So am I :D



Painted some more parts this afternoon. These turned out even better than the first batch. With all the odd shapes I have painted I think painting a big panel will be a piece of cake.

steering column top pieces
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/9847/66cutlasstires184oz0.jpg

power steering tank
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/319/66cutlasstires186rc5.jpg

heater box
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/570/66cutlasstires185iw6.jpg

Looks like you got the hang of it, don't stop now!

Not much of an update as far as progress but did overcome a big hurtle today. I sold the wifes Tahoe so several small parts to buy and, plating and last little bit of powder coating can be done. I mentioned before I got myself out of debt last year. Its been so tempting to just order the stuff I need and pay for it later but I have just been patiently waiting.

I did decide to paint the gas tank since you will be able to see it from the back of the car. Since this was a Northern car it had a ton of undercoating. The normal method of heating up the coating to get off was not the best idea on a gas tank. I tryed several methods but in the end a razor blade on a windshield scaper was the fastest method.

It still took the better part of and afternoon to get it cleaned off. The blade left gouges in the metal So I primed with a heavy fill, blocked with 180 reprimed and wet sanding with 600.

I just finished painting it with dark gray metalic (same as wheel background) and semigloss clear. I think it turned out great. I will have the factory straps plated silver for a nice contrast and detail.

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/2152/66cutlasstires207ci4.jpg

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/8982/66cutlasstires211tr9.jpg

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/3729/66cutlasstires212sx8.jpg

Coming along nice. It's gonna be a cool car when done.

Coming along nice. It's gonna be a cool car when done.

Thank you. I sure hope so. Got a little more done today




Letting the paint dry

Thought I would come in a soak up some A/C. My finger tips are sore from sanding all the hard to get at pieces of the firewall.

I found the color of paint I wanted by stopping off at a local street rod builder Sasche Rod Shop. The painter there was nice enough to walk me through the shop to see if I could point out the sheen I was after. I pointed out something and he gave me the PPG sheet of exactly how he mixed it. I really like it.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/56/66cutlasstires213vs3.jpg

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5136/66cutlasstires214mc3.jpg

What a small world, I have family that lived in Sasche and Wylie and my cousin sings at the Oprey in Wylie. Your car is looking awesome.:thumbsup:Keep the pics flowing:D

Hey can you give me info on where you got your ebrakes made up for the LS1 rear? I need to fab the brackes up for mine and wondering where you got the cables made? and what length?

Thanks

Very cool buildup! love all the pics!

:thumbsup:

What a small world, I have family that lived in Sasche and Wylie and my cousin sings at the Oprey in Wylie. Your car is looking awesome.:thumbsup:Keep the pics flowing:D

Thanks I will post more when I can


Hey can you give me info on where you got your ebrakes made up for the LS1 rear? I need to fab the brackes up for mine and wondering where you got the cables made? and what length?

Thanks


Its just a universal Lokar kit. I have not cut the lenth yet. I used the ends for a Explorer from Lokar. They work perfect with the LS1 lever

Very cool buildup! love all the pics!

:thumbsup:



Thanks glad everyone is enjoying them.

Its just a universal Lokar kit. I have not cut the lenth yet. I used the ends for a Explorer from Lokar. They work perfect with the LS1 lever


Are these replacing the stock cables from the front to rear? I'm trying to figure out how to do it now before the frame is under the car. Looks like there is EC-81FU from Lokar which is the entire cable from front to rear. Is this what you got?

Are these replacing the stock cables from the front to rear? I'm trying to figure out how to do it now before the frame is under the car. Looks like there is EC-81FU from Lokar which is the entire cable from front to rear. Is this what you got?

Not sure what the part number was. Its what they had in stock at my local street rod builder. They say I will need the connector cable too but I did not buy it yet. I'm waiting for the car to be back togther so I can see how I want to run the cables and go from there.

Looking for opinons or suggestions

The few std transmission throttle linkages I have been able to find are way out of my price range. I had an idea to just trim down the pot metal piece getting rid of the electrical part and refinishing to look like it was never altered. After disecting it I just could not figure out a way to trim it down and still keep its structual integrity and the needed stops that are built in to the piece.

I then had the idea to just reverse engineer the piece and just make it from scratch. I whipped it up out of wood to get an idea of how it will look. What do you guys think? Leave it as is, change it a little or start over? The is the side the upper part of the linkage will be attached to and pivot on.

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/1568/66cutlasstires217cr9.jpg

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/9499/66cutlasstires218jr1.jpg

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/4892/66cutlasstires219nv8.jpg

I have really enjoyed reading this whole thread, man you do awesome work!! I do feel your pain as well, my 70 was in this condition for a long time.

This bracket you're fabricating though has really thrown me a curve ball. Is this Olds only technology? I don't remember seeing something like that on a Chevelle.

I have really enjoyed reading this whole thread, man you do awesome work!! I do feel your pain as well, my 70 was in this condition for a long time.

This bracket you're fabricating though has really thrown me a curve ball. Is this Olds only technology? I don't remember seeing something like that on a Chevelle.

Thanks for the complements

Sorry I should have been more specific. This is an Olds only piece.

66 uses linkage for the throttle instead of cable. The auto cars have a built in electric kickdown and converter switch for the switch pitch converter. Thats what the pot metal piece is. The 4-speed cars dont use the electric part. I did not want the big ugly switch that won't be plugged in to anything and I don't have $200.00 to spend on 4 speed linkage

For your linkage, do you think you could construct one out of hard plastic?

http://www.smooth-on.com/liqplas.htm

if not they also have a military grade epoxy that you could probably use to maintain the integrity of the original linkage?

You've done more work on your car than I have done in 5 or so on mine! Thats a motivator for me!

For your linkage, do you think you could construct one out of hard plastic?

http://www.smooth-on.com/liqplas.htm

if not they also have a military grade epoxy that you could probably use to maintain the integrity of the original linkage?

You've done more work on your car than I have done in 5 or so on mine! Thats a motivator for me!

Not a bad idea. I will keep that in mind for the future.

I have been playing around with ideas. I think I am going to build it out of metal but use filler to make it look like it was on piece. It looks good in my head anyway. Reality version will be this weekend.

I took the last week off on the car. I can aross a deal on a 01 Z28 with a blown motor. Worked on cleaning up and detailing it. Sold in 6 days and made a few bucks I can put back in the Olds.

Finally got a little work done tonight. Mostly odds and ends cleaning parts for future install.

I had a couple tries to get something I like and I and now happy with how the throtte piece is comming out. Still need to smooth it out and get it ready for refinish but you can get the idea of how it will look. The pot metal piece is what will be replaced.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/9756/66cutlasstires215ja3.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/7758/66cutlasstires240xx4.jpg[/img]

Today I dropped the last of the stuff I need plated off to the industrial plater I used before. I picked up my calipers a few days ago from the coater.

Boys and girls don't try this at home. I now have so much time in these front calipers its not even funny. About 2 hours sanding and shaping. About 4-5 hours with an xatco knife cuting the high heat tape for the coater and another 6-7 hours with the smallest dremel bit I have ever seen (apox 1/16") and xacto knife trimming the coating out of the letters and getting the masking tape out. My vision is finally a reality and I don't have to worry about seeing 50 cars with the same aftermarket brakes.

Drum roll please...So what do you think?

http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/8949/66cutlasstires245ra8.jpg

I think those are awesome. I want a set like that, that says chevelle. What calipers did you start with? C5 with corvette script or touring classics with out the script?

I think those are awesome. I want a set like that, that says chevelle. What calipers did you start with? C5 with corvette script or touring classics with out the script?

They were low mile used C6 calipers. They had the Corvette milled off and the letters countersinked in. Thanks for the complement.

Real progress today


Got the pistons back in the calipers and got them all ready to install. I need to pick up some pads this week.
http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/7853/66cutlasstires251ud7.jpg

I got the belhousing mocked up one more time with the .007 offset dowels. Its now right under the specs recomended by the manufacture. They say .005 and I am at .004
Don't buy the Lakewood brand offset dowels. Mine were bigger than the hole by about .003
Went and got Moroso ones and they were right on.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/6016/66cutlasstires246vh1.jpg

Installed the adapter pilot bearing to use in an auto crank. I have read mixed revues about these. Hopefully it will last 6-8 months until the 455 is built.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/3294/66cutlasstires254tb5.jpg

Using a Centerforce DF clutch set and a McLeod ajustable pivot ball.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/4349/66cutlasstires252af9.jpg

Finally out of the box and bolted to its new home.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/9848/66cutlasstires255ol3.jpg

Clutch fork needs to be 5-7 degrees toward the front. The angle was achieved using th adjustable ball. Notice how far the stud from the ball sticks out. Once marked it was pulled back apart to cut the excess off.
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/295/66cutlasstires256fc0.jpg

MMMMMMMM....... 5-speed finally in place
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/2134/66cutlasstires257xb1.jpg

Now we are cookn'
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/8772/66cutlasstires258hy6.jpg
http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/1217/66cutlasstires260to8.jpg

man, this thing is starting to look wicked... awesome job and, the detail that you've added from personal to custom is just awesome. top notch work!!!

man, this thing is starting to look wicked... awesome job and, the detail that you've added from personal to custom is just awesome. top notch work!!!

Thanks alot. Some days it really hard to resist just throwing the rest together. I am so ready to drive again.

Refurbished and redesigned throttle linkage done tonight. Another part with way too much time in.

before

http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/7149/66cutlasstires215mm7.jpg
http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/708/66cutlasstires220xj1.jpg


after

http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/5257/66cutlasstires262yq2.jpg
http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/5271/66cutlasstires261vj8.jpg

yeah, sometimes you just have a to give it a couple days and then get back at it, or sleep on it when you're frustrated. the longest i've had my car down was about 6 months to pull the engine and trans, do some engine bay painting and install the tko. Nothing close to what you've done here. All i can say is it's going to be well worth it and the personal touches you've made will make all the difference in the final outcome.

Brakes are on and now the rolling chassis is basicly complete. A few things to deal with in the body and then its time to finally start putting it all back together. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/3429/66cutlasstires263gp5.jpg

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/8674/66cutlasstires264ef2.jpg

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/206/66cutlasstires266if1.jpg

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/9703/66cutlasstires265bz0.jpg

I am sure there is a reason, but I have to ask, why didn't you just mill the corvette script off the calipers then have them powdercoated, and once they were powdercoated you could have had the Oldsmobile script cnc'd thru the powdercoat?

I am sure there is a reason, but I have to ask, why didn't you just mill the corvette script off the calipers then have them powdercoated, and once they were powdercoated you could have had the Oldsmobile script cnc'd thru the powdercoat?

I asked about that and the machinist was not 100% sure it would not chip up some around the edges. I didn't want to take the chance so I did it this way.

Looking good there.... My ride has stalled out in the garage. Still need to get the brakes bolted up, ecables, brakes finished off, torque all the bolts, and find a set of wheels! Oh ya, and spend 6k on a motor.....BAH! Maybe next year it can be fired up.

I asked about that and the machinist was not 100% sure it would not chip up some around the edges. I didn't want to take the chance so I did it this way.

I see I figured there was a reason. I wouldn't imagine that powdercoat would chip but when your going to that much trouble probably not worth the risk either.

Got a little done this afternoon. Curiosity has been killing me as to how this original paint will turn out if I spend a little time on it. Well I did a little test spot and it going to come out a lot better than I thought it might.

This is a quick before and after of how it will look.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/5043/66cutlasstires282ad2.jpg
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4628/66cutlasstires283xg1.jpg


The main thing I wanted to do today was fix the RH rear body mount. I parted out the most rusty 67 442 convertible I have ever seen a few months before starting this build. Not one body bolt did not come right out in that car but my rust free 66 had the RH rear bolt spin on me. I cut it off with a sawsall
the day I took the body off.

After thinking about it I decided to go through the bottom to keep from disturbing the perfect original paint in the trunk. I cut the piece out with a 1/16" wheel which was the smallest I could find. It still made the gap a lot larger than I wanted but it worked out in the end. I had to fill the big gap and I suck at welding upside down so the repair is not very pretty but it will work.
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/8395/66cutlasstires271ci5.jpg


After cutting out the pieces I blasted it off and put it in a vise to compress the cage back together so the square nut would not spin. I welded a nut to the piece of bolt and was able to get it right out while still hot.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/5575/66cutlasstires273od2.jpg

To help keep the same thing from happening again I decided to brace the cage a little by welding a coulpe pieces if 1/8" scrap.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/183/66cutlasstires275is8.jpg

I wanted to get it welded back in as flush as possible. So I used weld studs to give myself a handle to push or pull.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4817/66cutlasstires276dr4.jpg

Other than dressing the welds here it is finished up.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/2990/66cutlasstires280im4.jpg

And she inches closer

A little was done today got the dash, 4 speed pedals, and heater box together on the inside and the firewall mostly together on the outside. Also got the gas tank back in place. I then finished assembing the floor shift column I am converting to. Working with all the new painted areas today was pretty nerve racking. Not near a forgiving as the powder coating. Made a nick here and there but not anything anyone will even notice.

The last thing I was working on tonight was driveline angles. Ended up having to raise the back of the transmission 1/2" to get a 2.25* front and 2.5* rear working angle. Thanks go out to Andrew with the GTO for posting this link and talking about this in his build. It helped me figure it out quicky.
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/html/Diagnosis/Propshaft/Propshaft_Angles.htm

I wanted to make sure that was done before I get the body back on. The last thing I need to raise the floor to clear the trans and then not have enough clearance to get the driveline right.

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8360/66cutlasstires289qi6.jpg

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5677/66cutlasstires287jc1.jpg

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5088/66cutlasstires286mq5.jpg

Don't know if it was the scatter shield or the aftermarket shift arm or combo of both but there was not near enough clearance for the shift fork to move back. Had to spend a few minutes with a die grinder.
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/9650/66cutlasstires290zt6.jpg

I opened the new body mounts for the first time today. One mount on each side would not fit. The hole in the frame was a lot smaller on that one mount. I don't know if if it was a misboxed product but I did not want to wait a week to get the right part. My first thought was to trim the frame out to match the other holes but I did not want to cut the powder coating. I then decided to cut the rubber down. I think I cam up with a pretty cleaver way to do it after brain storming a little while.

I first measured the size of the old original bushing. I then found a 3/8 fender washer that was close to the size but still apox .075 big. I took a long 3/8 bolt and nut and tightened it all together. I then chucked it up in the drill press. With a file I cut the washer down to the exact size I wanted to cut the rubber to. Now I had a perfect guide. I took the long 3/8 bolt with my new resized washer and another washer on the back side. I centered the guide washer on the rubber bushing and tighened it snug enough to hold. Chucked up in the drill and carefully used a razor blade to trim the rubber pefectly to the size of the washer. Hear is a cut one next to an uncut.
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/453/66cutlasstires291uw2.jpg

I wanted to be really close when setting down the body. So I used two plumb bobs. One front and one in the oppisite rear corner. I little scooting around on the jack and the frame was exactly where I wanted it.
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/198/66cutlasstires292km7.jpg

My plan was to always try to use this factory console I picked up off EBAY last year. I used a hole saw to get the shifter stub though the floor. I then drew and outline of where the console would sit. Well long story short I will not be using the console. Once the minimal cutting was done to clean the transmission I was well outside my outline for the console. I could still make it work but it would require a good bit of modification to the console. I paid way to much for this thing to risk messing it up. Its probably for the best. My daughter likes to walk between the seats from the back to get out of the car. When she stepped on it and broke it I might has had to kill her :lol: I just going to put it up for sale so someone with a original car can use it.
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/1398/66cutlasstires294ju3.jpg

Here is the bare minimum cutting it took to clear the Tremec TKO600. If you do not have your transmisson shimmed up 1/2" in back like mine you you may not have to cut as much. I plan on cleaning up the cuts and start covering it up Sunday
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/368/66cutlasstires295ea9.jpg

Don't think I need any expanation here
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/6250/66cutlasstires296po8.jpg

-Richard

Got a little done today. Once I finish the floor its time to put it all together to drive.

Cleaned up next to the hole with scotch brite disc
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/6971/66cutlasstires297yg3.jpg


Used a hammer and dolly to bend the flange arond the hole.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/7551/66cutlasstires298yn7.jpg

Made it out of poster board first.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/9199/66cutlasstires300zi2.jpg

Don't be jelous of my high dollar metal forming equipment.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/4523/66cutlasstires301eg1.jpg

First piece in.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/5176/66cutlasstires302jd9.jpg

Starting to take shape. Still need to make the back piece and finish welding it all up.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/4394/66cutlasstires311rw1.jpg

I see that you are welding your transmission cover to the floor. I riveted mine when I put the same transmission in and I am lucky I did. My TKO shift rods got locked up one day and I was stuck in 3rd gear. I had to remove the cover plate on top of the transmission - in front of the ****er, to unjam it. It was easy to do since I only had to drill out the rivets and pull my patch panel from the floor to acess the lingage cover. If you do a search on my name you will find a post from last year when this happened. It includes great pictures of the shift rods.

I see that you are welding your transmission cover to the floor. I riveted mine when I put the same transmission in and I am lucky I did. My TKO shift rods got locked up one day and I was stuck in 3rd gear. I had to remove the cover plate on top of the transmission - in front of the ****er, to unjam it. It was easy to do since I only had to drill out the rivets and pull my patch panel from the floor to acess the lingage cover. If you do a search on my name you will find a post from last year when this happened. It includes great pictures of the shift rods.

Too late for that now. I will just have to cross my fingers.

Its been a little while since I worked on it. I've had 30 min here and there but today I spent most of the day. Finshed welding up the tunnel, dressed the welds, cut the hole, smoothed a little mud on the seams, and sprayed it in bare metal epoxy.

Now I just need to spray it in black and the tunnel is done. Next up buff and clean of the body and its ready to back on bolt on.

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/200/66cutlass001mo8.jpg

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/1005/66cutlass004xa6.jpg

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/8866/66cutlass006ob9.jpg

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/5707/66cutlass007nd3.jpg

I can't do it....I just can't put the body on with out making the paint and trim as best as I possibly can. After painting the tunnel I stripped all the trim off the body. Going to do everything I can to make the original paint look good/ then I will detail all the trim. Just digging a little deeper. :shock:


http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/640/66cutlass010qq7.jpg

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/8671/66cutlass008kg2.jpg

It's a sickness that afflicts many of us!!! We just can't be satisfied with "Good enough".
Tom

It's a sickness that afflicts many of us!!! We just can't be satisfied with "Good enough".
Tom

"Good enough" I'm sorry that does not compute. Could you please explain what that means. :clonk:

Going to feel much better now. Got a good bit done to the car today. Started by washing it down good and masking everything off to keep from slinging compound everywhere. I sanded it all with 2000 just enough to smooth things out a bit. The factory paint still has a good bit of peel but I did not want to risk cutting through so I was very conservtive in my sanding. I then washed it again to get the sanding sludge off. Finally I buffed it all with a wool pad and 3M Perfect It II compund and washed it again. I still need to polish with a foam pad to remove the swirls. Its still not going to be anywhere near as nice as new paint but its at least 70% better than it was.

Everyone needs a color sanding assistant.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/2531/66cutlass011hg4.jpg

All sanded...no turning back now
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/2016/66cutlass012fj6.jpg

And buffed
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/7636/66cutlass017jb8.jpg
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/4711/66cutlass018mt9.jpg
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/6931/66cutlass019nw6.jpg

I can't do it....I just can't put the body on with out making the paint and trim as best as I possibly can. After painting the tunnel I stripped all the trim off the body. Going to do everything I can to make the original paint look good/ then I will detail all the trim. Just digging a little deeper. :shock:
]

LOL That's why mine is still sitting where my wife is supposed to be parking. Do it right , now is the time.

LOL That's why mine is still sitting where my wife is supposed to be parking. Do it right , now is the time.

Does this sound familiar? While I am at it....... LOL

Off work today for Turkey day so I got the body back home finally.

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/9992/partsandtools002no4.jpg

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/1967/partsandtools003zj9.jpg

Man, that's looking real good :yes:

That sure is looking great! You have just a TON of work (Very nice I might add) into it. Love the wheels, suspension, etc.
Keep up the great work and the updates! :)

Man, that's looking real good :yes:

That sure is looking great! You have just a TON of work (Very nice I might add) into it. Love the wheels, suspension, etc.
Keep up the great work and the updates! :)

Thank you both. Things are slow right now but once I get past the holidays I plan on some serious time back on the car.

Looking gooooood. Are you planning on lowering the rear at all?

Looking gooooood. Are you planning on lowering the rear at all?

Oh yea. This will be what it will sit like. Got to get all the weight back in it and adjust from there. Its got drop springs now but it sits pretty high. I have a feeling trimming will be involved.

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/4907/66cutlasstires003la0.jpg

Well the holidays are over and I finally got in the shop a little this weekend. Managed to get the valve covers sanded and repainted. Then was carefully fitting and assembling the painted and powder coated parts on the motor. Here is a before I started pic and what its looking like now,

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/6792/66cutlasstires024qm9.jpg

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/4346/partsandtools036ku3.jpg

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/2423/partsandtools038cy4.jpg

nice job.... you are pulling away from me!! I can't catch up... lol

nice job.... you are pulling away from me!! I can't catch up... lol


well get to work then :D

Lots of little preparation stuff going on right now so not much to report. I did pull the front suspension apart today again. The black zinc plating that came on the cross shafts on the upper control arms was rusting just from the humitity. It was driveing me crazy so I pulled them off and cleaned up, primed and painted them.

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8369/partsandtools036copyhk4.jpg

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/1604/cutlass001ur4.jpg


I also have been tinkering with the wiper motor this week. Ever since I was a little kid I have had a problem with having to take things apart to see how it was put together. As an adult in my mid 30's I am still just as bad :lol:

Over all it was not too hard to get apart. The hardest part was getting the staked motor cover off But it was a waste of time. There is a bronze bushing with a plate welded over it so it can't be removed for plating. It came off pretty easy after I spend time trying things that didn't work. What did work is clamping around the magnetic body with a chain vice grip wrench and clamping the wrench in a vice. I then used a rubber strap wrench to turn the cap when pulling outward and it spun off after getting it going.

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/1958/partsandtools042kl9.jpg

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/5211/partsandtools053zk6.jpg

Still waiting on some plating to finish but got the hard part done today.
Cleaned everything real good in the parts washer and blasted the aluminum with walnut shells. I painted the motor cover and put the main housing back on the the motor and cover. I then resoldered the motor wires I had disconnected. The hardest part came next. No matter how hard I tried I could not get the mail shaft, white gear and the drive plate down far enough to seat the snap ring. After some head scratching I decided to sacrifice a socket by making a window. It worked perfect pressing it with a c-clamp and was back together in seconds when I did that.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/8289/cutlass002oa8.jpg

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6561/cutlass003ff5.jpg

I was off today so I was able to get in the shop a little this afternoon.

I got the original carpet back in. Its a little short now on the sides do to the taller tunnel but it will do for now. Installed the shifter boot after that. If anyone uses this boot make sure to mark you holes with the metal retainer plate. I used the rubber boot and that was a mistake. Some of the holes did not quite line up so I had to get creative with some of the screw angles.

I then started wireing up the TKO600 too. After thinking about how to do it the best way I used the reverse and neutral switches on the transmission to control ground on a couple relays. I went through the facory firewall grommet to the inside of the car. I was able to position the relays so I did not have to cut or splice the original wires at all. Just pulled the wires out of the plug ends and on to the relay. If I ever have a neutral saftey relay go out the reverse relay is right there so I have a back up so i am not standed for mor than a minute. Power to the relays will come from the power window spade in the fuse block.

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/7871/stuff007dv2.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9023/stuff001br6.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2518/stuff003fm5.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6614/stuff002na2.jpg[/img]

Moving along..

Well a while back I had a horrible rechome job done Mr G's on a real floor shift gauge bezel I had picked up. I still have the stripped one I picked back up from them but I had an idea. My original column shift bezel is in excellent condition and I happen to have a junk dash out of a 67. After a little measuring I discovered there is one place next the the light switch thats just big enough to cut out a section of the groved material.

I cut it out was a little demmel saw and then got it close with a belt sander. Final fitting was done by hand. The very corners were into the smooth area so I cut groves by hand with a tiny file. Once I get a little touch up paint on it you will never know. 8)

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8916/stuff018.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/6840/stuff017.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/7352/stuff019.jpg

I wanted a little bit of custom touch to the outside of the car and here is what I did. The factory light silver in some of the side mouldings was chipped up and rubbed off so it needed to be redone. I still had some of the dark gray the wheels were done in so that is the color the inserts of the mouldings now. The gray and black with polished stainless looks killer against the red.


http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/5859/stuff021.jpg

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/5808/stuff028.jpg

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/9145/stuff030.jpg

Awesome build, love it!

Awesome build, love it!

Thanks

Finished the moulding today. Letting them dry overnight and they are ready to put on.

Who whould have ever thought all those years as a kid building models would be a talent I could still use 25 years later. LOL

I got a quote from a pin-stiper the other day and it was a good bit more than I wanted to spend so I stopped at Hobby Lobby on the way home. I experimented with several techniques but what worked best was mask off the area with fine line tape. I then practicly pored the paint in. I redipped the brush dripping wet every1/2 inch or so. Keeping it this thick really let it self level smooth. My best results were to take the tape off as soon as I was done putting the paint on. Little bit of clean up here and there with thinner and they turned out great. This was a really tedious process but worth it IMO

This is one of those ideas that popped in my head and I really like the results of the finished mouldings. This mod is a close second to my calipers which is still my favorite mod. In the first pic you can see the original silver on the clip next to the new gray to compare them.

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/2461/stuff032.jpg

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/4750/stuff033.jpg

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/7616/stuff037.jpg

I definitely agree that looks very clean.

Well since I had the paint out I decided to give the emblems a tune up. See the before and after.

So here are the mouldings on the car. Something must be wrong with my camera because the pics suck. Its as best I can do for now. I love it!!
Just need the back down about 4" and it will be perfect.

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/3159/stuff039.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9404/stuff041.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/935/stuff043.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/6302/stuff044.jpg

WOW that just makes me tingle all over.............
I was born in a '66 442 in June of '66

Beautiful car and an awesome thread.:hurray:
I just read it from beginning to end for the first time.:thumbsup:

Looks like you have her nearly complete and just about ready to take the "boss" for a ride in the 'vertible.:D

Beautiful car and an awesome thread.:hurray:
I just read it from beginning to end for the first time.:thumbsup:

Looks like you have her nearly complete and just about ready to take the "boss" for a ride in the 'vertible.:D

On the down hill slide for sure now. The time changing helps a ton. Getting home in the dark I can't get motvated to go outside. Now that I have 45 min of daylight when I get home I can work 2-3 hours. Its a mental thing I guess.

Well I have made a new goal and this one I intend to make. I can't go any deeper without painting it so I should not be doing anything else that will slow me down. Hot Rod Power Tour is just too far away this year so the plan is to take it to Goodguys Nationals in Columbus OH mid July.

Got the rear of the car trimmed out today. Also got the front brakes on the car.

I came up with a pretty nice solution for the Ebrake. I originally bought the Lokar universal rear kit and the connector cable for the front designed for thier after market pedal. I wanted to use the original pedal so I figured I would make it work some how. Well the hole in the floor is almost as big as the connector cable end piece. I would have needed to weld up the floor and drill a new hole. Well I thought about the rear cable sleeve and tried it. It worked perfect. I called Lockar and they gave me a part# to order just a rear cable sleeve. Installed with a little strip caulk and its like it came this way. Still have to figure how to mount the cables under the car. I should have that done my next day off.

Finally installed the bumper I paid 50.00 extra for a rush jod to be ready by last May. LOL
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/5268/stuff048.jpg

The calipers will look sweet rolling down the highway.
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/2409/stuff051i.jpg

here you can see the difference in the cable end. The bolt style intended for the rear worked perfect.
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/7742/stuff052.jpg

installed in the firewall factory hole.
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/4821/stuff054.jpg

Finshed up setting up the custom E-brake system with the factory pedal. Works perfect. Ended up making a braket to drop down the front cable bracket so it pulls dead straight on the rear cable brakets. I took lots of consideration and where to run the rear cables so they will move as needed but not get in the way of anything moving in the suspension. I used stainless clamps picked up at a local street rod shop to attach them to the frame. I'm pleased with the looks and function.

The next task was to center the rear with the upper control arms and finally check tire and wheel clearance at full suspention travel and at ride height. Well my home made measuring tool worked like a charm. Wheel wells are as full as they can be and I didn't cut a thing. I may need some very slight clearancing with a hammer on one of the inner wheel wells but I will have to drive it to see first. Of course I had to snap a shot of the future ride stance.

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3500/stuff060o.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/7751/stuff061.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/424/stuff062.jpg

Rich,
Looking great sir! Very impressive work. Can't wait to see it up close.
Frank

Rich,
Looking great sir! Very impressive work. Can't wait to see it up close.
Frank

Its come a little ways since you last saw it huh? :)

PM me if you want to stop by and see it some time. I'm apox 20 min from you.

Well todays update should really be called a back date because I made major negative progress.

I made my last brake lines that go from the master to the prop. valve on the frame. Also made a small bracket that bolts to the pedal bracket stud on the firewall to keep the lines from getting in to the steering colum or clutch linkage. All is well so far. Things went down hill from there.

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6273/stuff068.jpg

This the first time I have ever used stainless line. I had heard its a little harder to to get to seal but I had no idea how bad it was going to be. I started to bleed the brake lines and saw some fluid dripping on the floor from the prop. valve. I then start looking close at all the connections and more than 1/2 of them are leaking to one extent or another. :( I manage to to get most of them sealed up by tightening and loosening several times but some the the lines on the prop valve I could not get to without removing the starter which it the big PITA with the lakewood scatter shield. To remove the starter I had to disconnect the clutch linkage too.

I got the last of the lines sealed up and a nice hard pedal so it was time to put it all back together. When I got to the clutch linkage I noticed the fork was kind of flopping around like the spring had slid off the ball. No big deal slid it back right? NOT!! I tried for 5 min feeling for it with the fork to slid it on but it never would catch. I finally resorted to a light and a mirror so I could see up in there and could believe my eyes. There was no spring clip. Brand new fork and the spring had broken off at the rivet :mad: Now the motor has to come out again which is not a huge deal in itself but I have to wait for another fork to be shipped to me.

At this point I needed to just get away so I took the wife and daughter to the park for a couple hours. We got back and I wanted to get a little more done before it got dark. I was bolting down one of the front seats and I over did it on one of the studs. POP!!! Its broke now the carpet has to come out on the drivers side so I can weld a new stud. Its just wasn't my day.

All I can say is that I am glad I'm not the only one that has days like that. I feel your pain for sure though!

Man that is rough I have definitely had those kind of days before. I just always tell myself the worst day working on my car can't be all that bad because I love doing it.

Got a day off today and I am exteemly pissed right now. I never was happy with the factory exhaust manifolds. They looked OK from a distance but had some deep pits that bothered me. I pulled the trigger and bought a new set from Parts Place. These are sold as performance manifolds for duals made like the ones X/W for the factory big block. I know these are pretty new to the market but I must be the first person to ever get a set. There sure didn't spend much time R/D.

I put the LH one on first and it seems to fit fine. I then went to the RH side and it started snugging up and I was still seeing daylight under the gasket. At first I though it was warped but after getting under the car I saw the problem. The manifold was completely up against the top bolt of the oil filter adapter. I pulled it back off and removed the bolt to see how much clearance I needed. With the bolt removed it would seal up but the manifold was still touching the oil filter adapter.

At this point I should have just boxed them up and send them back but I really don't have time for delays right now so I decided to just make it work. I cut down the housing a little and used a counter sink bit and cut a recess in the housing and used a countersink bolt. I still had to grind on the manifold and good bit to gain some minimal clearance.

Here you can see no bolt installed and it still hits
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7494/stuff082.jpg

A little bit of home brewed machine work on the adapter
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7980/stuff084.jpg

Oh the fun of grinding on new parts
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9480/stuff085.jpg

Now we have a little clearance. Not optimal but it will work.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/8526/stuff086.jpg

I thought the problems were behind me getting the RH side ironed out but I was very wrong. Tonight I went to put the starter back on and only the inside bolt would go in. The starter still needs to rotate out and good bit to install the bolt. Well after looking up to see the problem I about went throug the roof. You guessed it. The LH side was crammed up agaist the starter. The is no amout of grinding or clearancing that will let it work with my original starter.

See how the starter still needs to rotate out at least another 1/4" or so.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6233/stuff090.jpg

Not gonna happen with this exhaust in place.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6550/stuff092.jpg

Don't get me wrong I don't mind making things work its all about building a hot rod but these are designed and casted completly wrong. When I saw the LH side I was about sick at my stomach and just had to come inside before I started throwing things.


Finshing up with a few pics of progress. Engine is about finished up the core support and new mid 80's Suburban radiator that drops right in to the original saddles with no modification at all.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/5255/stuff088.jpg

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6433/stuff089g.jpg

the amount of times I've had to modify a part that supposedly would "bolt right on" is too high to count. You're doing a great job, just hang in there, take breaks when you need to (not necessarily when you want to) and it will turn out killer.

Jody

the amount of times I've had to modify a part that supposedly would "bolt right on" is too high to count. You're doing a great job, just hang in there, take breaks when you need to (not necessarily when you want to) and it will turn out killer.

Jody

Thanks Jody... After talking with a few guys on the Olds board they seem to think I was given the wrong manifolds. They say these are for big block which makes since as the taller deck would pull them up and out of the way.

Forward progress today. Starting to look carish again.

Make sure to stand back 10 ft and you can admire my high dollar custom paint. ;)

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/7215/stuff104.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/9858/stuff105.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/5526/stuff108.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/3480/stuff106.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/1531/stuff107.jpg

Forward progress today. Starting to look carish again.

Make sure to stand back 10 ft and you can admire my high dollar custom paint. ;)



Awesome project! It is great motivation for all of us to see you doing all your own work.

Awesome project! It is great motivation for all of us to see you doing all your own work.

Thanks Tony. I seems like its been forever since I drove it. I can't wait to experience the suspension,steering box, transmission, and rear gears. From 2speed 2.73 to 5 speed 3.73. From 16:1 steering to 12:1 Lee box. It should be a whole different car.

Thanks Tony. I seems like its been forever since I drove it. I can't wait to experience the suspension,steering box, transmission, and rear gears. From 2speed 2.73 to 5 speed 3.73. From 16:1 steering to 12:1 Lee box. It should be a whole different car.

that's awesome, it will be like jumping in a vette! I am not a convertible person either; but your car is bitchin'

that's awesome, it will be like jumping in a vette! I am not a convertible person either; but your car is bitchin'


Maybe not quite a Vette but a modern sport sedan anyway.

Its looking really close now can't wait to hear how much of a difference it truly is. Should be a whole new world as you mentioned.

just make sure you rotate your tires so the tread pattern is going the right way before you drive it, then you should be good to go!

just make sure you rotate your tires so the tread pattern is going the right way before you drive it, then you should be good to go!

yea the front tires are swaped side to side. I had a seal in my lift blow out a few weeks back and the car was dropping about an inch a minute. I grabbed the closest wheel to me first and tossed it on the car. I had to get all the wheels on the car as quick as I could to get it on the ground.

On a side note I can add hydraulic cylinder repair to my resume:) No pics to share but you can use your imagination on this one. I got the seal kit and stopped at tractor supply for a 7 foot 3/16 rod. Bent the rod on the end into a u-shape and slipped the "U" though the hole in the handle of a round end toilet brush.http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif Sprayed some mineral spirits inside the tube and on the brush. Clamped the other end into my hand drill. Walah instant 8 ft long rotating tube cleaning brush. Got it all back together and works perfect.

My lift is about 25 years old and was in a dealership before I owned it so its had plenty of use. The manufacture must have put some pretty accurate failure engineering in the seals because a couple days ago the other side gave out. LOL

Richard, do you still have the 330 in the car or is this a 455?

Based on what you are seeing, i would guess that the manifolds you have were designed for the 400/425/455 heads.

Even though the blocks are the same size, the heads change the angle and location of the exhause ports. That is why they don't make headers for SBO on the 64-67 a-bodys, only BBO.

I would wager that if you were to bolt those same manifolds onto a BBO they would clear everything.

Sucks though :(

I know this doesn't help you any, but i'm glad that you did this before me, as i had seriously considered those same repro manifolds for my 330 too....

Richard, do you still have the 330 in the car or is this a 455?

Based on what you are seeing, i would guess that the manifolds you have were designed for the 400/425/455 heads.

Even though the blocks are the same size, the heads change the angle and location of the exhause ports. That is why they don't make headers for SBO on the 64-67 a-bodys, only BBO.

I would wager that if you were to bolt those same manifolds onto a BBO they would clear everything.

Sucks though :(

I know this doesn't help you any, but i'm glad that you did this before me, as i had seriously considered those same repro manifolds for my 330 too....

yea it turned out I did get the 400-455 ones. They agreed to resend me the right ones but I did not have time to wait so I just reblasted and recoated the originals. I am done with Parts Place. Its there 2nd mess up with me personally in the last 3 orders.

I little more assembly tonight. I got the grill on and noticed it had the same silver paint from the side mlds. I was faded and kinda nasty so I pulled it back off and spent a few hours painting it the dark gray I've been using.

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/8752/stuff109.jpg

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/3461/stuff110.jpg

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/4609/stuff111.jpg

I have to admire your patience on waiting for it to get all together before you take it for a spin.(I assume since your stickers are still on your tires) I had my chevelle going around the block with open headers and no front clip after the LS1 swap haha.

I have to admire your patience on waiting for it to get all together before you take it for a spin.(I assume since your stickers are still on your tires) I had my chevelle going around the block with open headers and no front clip after the LS1 swap haha.

I've got to get it aligned becuase its way off and still need to tighten the front lower control arms. I just figured I would finish it and then trailer it to work so I can align it and double check all the criticle suspension and brake bolts while its over my head but with the suspension loaded. After that the fun begins.

Now I am just teasing myself. LOL Few small details and need to add an exhaust system. After 14 months I can drive it again. I got a universal 2.25" Abody system from Summit. I hope to be able to build it this weekend.

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/9242/stuff115.jpg

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/2539/stuff116.jpg

OK for you die hard olds guys you will enjoy this and get a good laugh. For you Chevy guys working on Oldsmobile this may save you from killing yourself.

Its been 14 months since I took my car apart. Well thurs night I planned on starting it so I could trailer it to work Friday for adjusting all the suspension before I can drive it. Starter was dead but I figured out it was a fuse issue with my neutral saftey system.

So Friday night with the starter working I try to prime the carb but all I cab get it to do it blubber. I add a little gas over and over till finally the pump is primed but it just won't start. I move the distributor back and forth a little at a time but it just won't fire. I run the battery down trying and put the charger on it. I try another 15 min and see a small fire reflection from the raw gas in the open exhaust manifold so I just call it a night.

So today I start about 1:00 and add a temporary exhaust a few feet behind the motor so I don't have any more potential fires. I check the timing I check for spark I check the compression incase some how sitting the rings stuck. I try a differnet coil and different distributor incase the Pertronix is bad or installed wrong. I literly try everything I can think of well into tonight. So I am putting the Pertronix distributor back in and I bump the starter and watch the rotor turn counter clockwise. I thing I am seeing things and the bump it again and watch it turn counter clockwise for sure. I literly screamed out loud. So I set the timing and correct the wires in the right order and it fires in less than 1/2 a revolution and sits there and purrs at idle. I can't believe how much of a headache its been for such a simple fix. :D

Well I got it aligned this morning. It took a little while. I had never used and aligment machine and the tech helping me is used to Lexus vehicles not old hod rods with custom suspension. Once I figured out what made what change it went pretty smooth but it was a leaning curve for both of us.


I did find a small problem. I drove it next door to our body shop because several guys have been waiting to see it. Well sitting there only 15 minutes the LH front tire was almost flat. It turns out the valve stems hit the calipers up front and damaged one of them causing it to leak.

OK for you die hard olds guys you will enjoy this and get a good laugh. For you Chevy guys working on Oldsmobile this may save you from killing yourself.

Its been 14 months since I took my car apart. Well thurs night I planned on starting it so I could trailer it to work Friday for adjusting all the suspension before I can drive it. Starter was dead but I figured out it was a fuse issue with my neutral saftey system.

So Friday night with the starter working I try to prime the carb but all I cab get it to do it blubber. I add a little gas over and over till finally the pump is primed but it just won't start. I move the distributor back and forth a little at a time but it just won't fire. I run the battery down trying and put the charger on it. I try another 15 min and see a small fire reflection from the raw gas in the open exhaust manifold so I just call it a night.

So today I start about 1:00 and add a temporary exhaust a few feet behind the motor so I don't have any more potential fires. I check the timing I check for spark I check the compression incase some how sitting the rings stuck. I try a differnet coil and different distributor incase the Pertronix is bad or installed wrong. I literly try everything I can think of well into tonight. So I am putting the Pertronix distributor back in and I bump the starter and watch the rotor turn counter clockwise. I thing I am seeing things and the bump it again and watch it turn counter clockwise for sure. I literly screamed out loud. So I set the timing and correct the wires in the right order and it fires in less than 1/2 a revolution and sits there and purrs at idle. I can't believe how much of a headache its been for such a simple fix. :D

Glad you found the problem! Pontiacs are the same they rotate counter clockwise too! Open pipes must sound sweet!

Jon

Glad you found the problem! Pontiacs are the same they rotate counter clockwise too! Open pipes must sound sweet!

Jon

Sounds OK I guess. As good a stock 330 can sound anyway. It's in bad need of a lumpy cammed 455.

Got any pics of the ebrake cables on the rear calipers? I bought the Lokar setup and was hoping to cheat off of you. :D

Got any pics of the ebrake cables on the rear calipers? I bought the Lokar setup and was hoping to cheat off of you. :D

I should have it back on the lift in a day or two. I will shoot some pics then. You might see what you want in the first page or two of this thread. I can't see my pics from work so I can't direct you exactly. Just look on the first few pages and you should see it.

As promised here are some pics of the e-brake setup. Now thats it all together it looks and works like factory.

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/3015/stuff117.jpg

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/9849/stuff118.jpg

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/3760/stuff119.jpg

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/791/stuff122.jpg



The end is near.............

Well my punch out list is down to just a few items. I finally get to drive it in the next day or two. I have forced myself from starting to drive it because I would not want to go back and finish some details I have been working on. Finally time to reap some rewards of my labor and way too much $$ spent.

Here is the exhaust I had put on last week.

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/6130/stuff120.jpg

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/9550/stuff121.jpg

Looking good. I will have to figure out a time to make it over and see her in person.
Frank

Looking good. I will have to figure out a time to make it over and see her in person.
Frank

I plan on having it at the Rowlett Thursday night get together and the big BOP car shop this Saturday at Sewell Pontiac / GMC. Come check it out if you have the chance.

Well I drove it tonight. Put about 8 miles on it running to the gas station and back. All I have to say is :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

It drives about like a modern Infinity sports sedan. Exacty what I was after. The trans shifts super smooth too. The gearing I went with 3.73 is perfect with the overdrive. Now all it needs it about 200 more HP for some real fun.

congrats, well deserved. I know what you mean about saying you'll doing something later, and then you go out and drive it, and drive it and drive it, and you never get to the thing you had planned to do. You must have had the biggest grin on your face ever! So no driveline problems or vibes?

I'll say that I have been following this story for close to a year along with prolly a hundred other TCers that kept their subscription to this thread. I am proud of your work, man. It is dynamite to see the fruit of all your REAL LABOR pay off. Good show, and that is one FINE olds. :beers::thumbsup::thumbsup:

I'm curious if you've had any issues with the Lokar ebrake cable location? We had ours in almost the exact same location, at first, and the rear cables wouldn't pull evenly on the brass connector and either the brake pads on the wilwoods wouldn't tighten-up against the rotor drums and/or the cables kept pulling through the connector - no matter how tight the screws were tightened. It was a real problem with the right (passenger's side) and with a stick, the ebrake not working correctly isn't the best feeling when parking on a grade. The connector location has been moved to the center of the body to pull evenly on both rear cables, and we're hoping this will resolve the problem. So far, so good.

congrats, well deserved. I know what you mean about saying you'll doing something later, and then you go out and drive it, and drive it and drive it, and you never get to the thing you had planned to do. You must have had the biggest grin on your face ever! So no driveline problems or vibes?

I spent a lot of time setting up the driveline angles to where I thought it would be right per the posts Andrew made about his 70 GTO. I have only been up to about 50 MPH do to the roads I had to take but so far so good. No vibrations.

I'll say that I have been following this story for close to a year along with prolly a hundred other TCers that kept their subscription to this thread. I am proud of your work, man. It is dynamite to see the fruit of all your REAL LABOR pay off. Good show, and that is one FINE olds. :beers::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Thanks man. Some days its been a love hate deal but getting to drive it got rid of all the hate.

I'm curious if you've had any issues with the Lokar ebrake cable location? We had ours in almost the exact same location, at first, and the rear cables wouldn't pull evenly on the brass connector and either the brake pads on the wilwoods wouldn't tighten-up against the rotor drums and/or the cables kept pulling through the connector - no matter how tight the screws were tightened. It was a real problem with the right (passenger's side) and with a stick, the ebrake not working correctly isn't the best feeling when parking on a grade. The connector location has been moved to the center of the body to pull evenly on both rear cables, and we're hoping this will resolve the problem. So far, so good.

It should not matter where you mount it as long as you have a straight pull. I probably used it 40 times in and out of the garage and if I leave it on the car will not move when I let of the clutch so with my fingers crossed so far. Thanks for the heads up.

:thumbsup: PICS PICS PICS!!!!

Congrats! Glad to hear you she had her maiden voyage so to speak. Its the greatest feeling when all the hard work comes together and you take her for a spin.

Ignoir the missing center cap and the rear stance. Those will be addressed soon. Here is the first daylight complete pics in 14 months. For grins I added one of the original pics from before I started.

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8898/img2950q.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/614/stuff124sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/6614/stuff125sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/9462/stuff126sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/655/stuff130sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/4540/stuff127sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/1040/stuff128sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/3200/stuff131sm.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/6240/stuff129sm.jpg

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Well worth the wait!!!

Its like looking at the much cleaner, nicer, convertible version of mine! :D

Some last minute clean up and assembly done. Here are some final pics from getting it out today.

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/131/stuff132sms.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/1746/stuff136sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/1830/stuff137sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/734/stuff134sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/3634/stuff139sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5720/stuff143sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/2121/stuff145sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/9170/stuff146sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/3135/stuff147sm.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5122/stuff148sm.jpg

AWESOME!!!!!!

That shot of the wheel/caliper is sick!:thumbsup:

For those of you just tuning in, that is the ORIGINAL paint!!!!

Beautiful! I loved watching this build! So whats next?

AWESOME!!!!!!

That shot of the wheel/caliper is sick!:thumbsup:



I love that pic too. Ive been waiting to make that pic since the day the idea popped in my head to do the calipers like that.

Beautiful! I loved watching this build! So whats next?

Thanks!! Not sure whats next. I have been so focused for so long. I felt weird today with nothing to do but drive it.

My next real project is my shop. I've been dragging hoses and cords across it for far to long. Time to rewire, add some lights, plumb for air, and build a second storage shed for all the large easy to roll equipment thats in the way if you aren't using it.

After that I have a 64 Lemans/gto clone for me and a 69 Firebird that will be the wifes. Both are much bigger projects than this was. They need complete body restoration and and Firebird needs a good deal of rust fixed.

Its been a little while since I updated this thread. I though those of you that followed the build might like these.

Killer pics I just found on the Detroit Speed web site

http://www.detroitspeed.com/images/news_events/goodguys-fort-worth09/ggfortworth09-022L.jpg

http://www.detroitspeed.com/images/news_events/goodguys-fort-worth09/ggfortworth09-023L.jpg

http://www.detroitspeed.com/images/news_events/goodguys-fort-worth09/ggfortworth09-024L.jpg

Photos by Mark Chichester - Detroit Speed, Inc.