i am almost at the point to purchase what i need and drop it off to the machine shop,heres what i have already car is a 70-72 chevelle

454 block

stock crank

stock rods

(im tossing the stock flat top pistons)

781 head and i will have the bigger valves installed

350 trans beefed up

12 bolt 3.55 posi rear

need help on the rest,would like close to 500 hp or more street and strip,mostly street but not a daily driver, has to run on pump fuel and be as reliable as possible,dont mind a lopy idle and would like it to break lose at 40 when i punch it
12s 1/4 mile?


this is what i need help on.

thinking about the kb 1.33 domed pistons?

performer or performer rpm intake? need help selecting

need help on carb selection?

and need help on cam/lifter/rockers/ spring selections?

igntion?

headers and exhaust?
and any other suggestions?

thanks

I have a 396 in my 69 chevelle and it runs 12.20's all day, so 12's with a 454 should be no problem if it is set up cxorrectly. As an example I have stock rods 2 bolt mains cast crank and 66 396 heads with small valves/chambers Isky 292/590 cam w/comp cams steel roller rockers a torker 2 O intake and 850 carb and HEI.

I would suggest getting small chamber oval port heads with flat tops you can get about 9.6-10.0 compression. with small domes you can get 10.2-10.5

a good cam (I Love Isky cams)Get the whole kit from one manufacture for ease and compatibility. get one that makes power to about 5,500-6,000 rpm

for street use a 750 DP or 780 vac sec carb should work fine. On the intake I would use a rec port intake even with oval port heads I have used this combo on other cars I have had with great success a dual plane performer type intake with an rpm range up to 5,500-6,000 rpms should be fine.

HEI is hard to beat for reliability. I have one with an MSD 6AL box, but even in stock form they are very good and inexpensive (although I have run 11.50's with points and a super coil smile.gif )

Headers one word, Hooker. The competition or super competition series are great for fit and flow. I would run 3 inch with good mufflers (flowmaster) and a crossover (again I have run good with cheap of the shelf mufflers, but that was before there were flowmasters).

Also you should consider a higher stall converter about 2,800-3,000 rpm.

I hope this helps sorry it is so long if you need any more help email me

Joe

For a solid street machine you sound like you are on the right track. I made similar decisions when i was building my motor a few months ago. I think you are right on with the heads and valve selection. Your compression will be good and the KB hyper pistons are quality pieces. For camshaft/valvetrain stuff do you want a hydraulic or solid cam, or does it matter. I think the Lunati/UD 280/288F12 hydraulic would be perfect for your application. For a street machine get some new long slot rocker arms and since your heads probably came with the little pushrods a new set of 3/8 pushrods and guideplates to match. Intake wise i think the performer RPM is hard to go wrong with, there are many others here running it as well as myself and i have been very pleased with it. Carbs i think it is hard to get away from a properly setup holley 3310 for a street application like yours. It is a vacuum secondary 750 cfm 4bbl. As already mentioned get a converter to match your cam(2400-2800 i think) and you will be happy with your combination.

It is very similar to what i have setup, a .060 over 427, performer rpm intake, 3310 carb, 215 closed chamber heads with big valves and head work, UD 272/282 solid cam, springs and valvetrain to match, 2800 stall converter, 12 bolt posi w/ 3.55 gears. I havn't run it at the track right now as i am in the middle of the motor swap, but i can't wait. I am confident providing traction i will run in the 12s.

Daniel

thanks guy's for the lengthly reply and sugestions,

i would like to keep my 781 head's so im getting rid of the flat tops.


what are the positives and negatives of the hydraulic and solid cams? the cost is not a issue but performance and reliability are!

I was just shootin for 12's, I hope this combo does it.

454 +.30
TRW Forged Flat Tops
66 396 702 Closed Chamber 98cc Heads Big valves put in em

Lunati 293°.549"
310°.558"
110° Sep
104° Int C/L 12°BTC 40°ABC /
55.5°BBC 03.5°ATC 00026
Accel Dual Point Dist. (HEI conversion planned)
Performer 2-0 Intake
Havent decided what carb to run.. any ideas fellas? Thinkin bout an HP carb, but man those are expensive!!

TH400 3000 Stall
Factory 4:10 Posi

Beechfront, definitely keep those 781's. the pistons sound like a pretty good match too, give you a little more compression but still keep it safe for pump gas. i like the cam smittyocat recommended and i'd run the rpm intake for sure. as far as carbs go i prefer dp's over vac sec, but it depends on how much street driving you're going to do. personally i think you should go with a good 750dp or if you can afford it, go for a Holley 950hp. there will be a big difference in performance between a 3310 vac sec and a holley 950hp, but the price difference is big too.

Hey m71, where are you at in Indiana? There are a bunch of us all over the state - some really nice folks. Any pictures of your car? I'm partial to '71s ;)

what your are looking to do is shoot for around 500 ft/lbs of torque from 2400 to 4500 to run 12's with your ride and 3.55's. HP is meaningless......but if you have to know...you can run mid 12's with 375 HP.

How about some of those Mahle pistons? They have a skirt coating already, run a little tighter, and may have other benefits. These should be ready-to-run pistons, according to the ad literature. Ya gotta know that the pistons are gonna need some bump to keep compression up in 119-120 cc chambers. Get the tops coated, and you are ready for nitrous, too. {a little bit} We gotta start thinking progresive here.

Search on this site under "UD BB280/288H12". There is a dyno test with 532 ftlbs at 3800, and 491 BHP at 5700. This cam is a daily driver....

UDHarold

If anyone knows the correct link, please post it...

Woohoo, i guessed the right one!

Daniel

I built this 454 0.030" two months ago with KB Dome Hyp pistons, 049 Large Oval heads and 2.19/1.88 SS valves....10.25:1 compression on pump gas.

I agree that the dual plan intakes are the ticket coupled with a 950 carburetor. Remember that the 950 Holley carb utilizes a 750 mainbody and 850 base which would be a great street carb for this sort of combo.

A milder 454 would work with a 750 (9.0 or less in compression). Stay away from the 850 if you desire bottom-end throttle response and torque.

http://www.tpcracing.com/images_temp/Tys_BBC.jpg

You are on the right track. I like the 781 style heads and many are going 12s or better with them. I would try to keep your static comression ratio between 9.5 and 10 and match the cam to run on pump gas probably in the 230-240 @50 intake duration with 5-8 more degrees on the exh. I like the rpm intake, it might kill off alittle low end but if you are going to run a stall it shouldn't make much difference as you will be above 4500rpm most of the time on a 12 second pass. You need at least a 2.5 inch exh system, a 3 inch would be better but is really not needed to run 12s. If you have stock rods, i would add a good set of rod bolts (like ARP). Put a good set of tires on it, spinning the tires at 40 mph is cool, but can make the car a handful to drive. I have had good luck with Quick time pros, but a drag radial should also work.

You are on the right track. I love Stock HEI's with a recurve. GO with the RPM there is enough grunt down low anyways Go with a cam that matches your converter 2500 to 3000 stall I chose a summit 1301 just cause my funds are limited. I am Extremely happy I built my car the way I did. I can drive to the office and back, take it on trips AND click off 12s! I have yet to fine tune it. Good luck and have fun graemlins/waving.gif
Milan

thanks for all the suggestions guy's,

i found the thread that UD Harold mentioned.


what kind of idle does the (UD BB280/288H12)have?

whats the difference between the UD BB280/288H12 and the F12? i saw it mentioned in a few posts

also what kind of performance and overall streetability will the UD 272/282 solid cam give me compared to the hydraulic?

i think these are my 2 choices based on what i have read and my what goals are,

just need to find out the differnces in them.


TIA

BeechFront,

Anything with decent vacuum idles OK, that cam should be idling about 800.....
The 280/288H12 is a hydraulic, 223/231 at .050, .525/.550 valve lift, 112 LSA.
The 280/288F12 is a solid, 247/255 at .050, .595/.612 valve lift, and 112 LSA.
There's a big difference in power between the two.
The 272/282F12 is 238/248 at .050, .550/.570 valve lift, and 112 LSA. It normally goes a year between valve lash adjustments. It makes power from under 2500 to about 6500. It is also one notch/step above the 280/288H12, about 8° effective duration.

UDHarold

ok everything is at the machine shop now getting done

i have narrowed down my cam selections to 2 cams

280/288 H10
288/296 H10

i called lunati a few times to talk to howard with no success

any one have any other suggestions on another companies cam that is close to either of the UD cams?


454 block

stock crank

stock rods

kb 257 pistons .250 dome

10:2.1

781 head and i will have the bigger valves installed

350 trans beefed up

12 bolt 3.55 posi rear

i dont mind a somewhat lopey idle and has to have enough vacuum for pb

this is mostly street car.

thanks

280/288 H12!!!!

I was going to get one if i didn't go for the solid. I have the 272/282F12 in my 427 right now. I almost felt wrong putting a hyrdaulic cam in a 427, and this is a mostly for fun car, with a little highway driving. It should be a blast very very soon!

Daniel

Try talking to Steve at Lunati. He worked for Harold at Ultradyne and knows those cams well.

Jeff

thank Daniel


Jeff ill give it another shot and try calling Steve instead tomorrow


thanks
Bill

Finally got a hold of Harold today and ordered my cam smile.gif

went with the 280/288 H12

thanks everbody for the suggestions!

Good luck! but i really don't think you want your car to break the tires loose at 40mph! :eek: if that happens I hope you are not on the freeway!

I think the 280/288H12 idles about 800, with a definite 'Crackle' to the exhaust. It may idle a little lower, but no higher.
The difference is this:
280/288H12 223/231 .525/.550
280/288F12 247/255 .595/.612
272/282F12 238/248 .550/.570
grind number .050 valve lifts

When comparing solids to hydraulics, subtract about 8° at .050, ie---231° at .050 solid is very similar 223° hydraulic in peak power, but the solid may be torqui-er.... The 272/282F12 has multiple-year valve spring life and once-a-year valve lash setting.
Hope this info is of help....

UDHarold

Originally posted by cody:
but i really don't think you want your car to break the tires loose at 40mph! :eek: if that happens I hope you are not on the freeway! I can do that all day long with my 454 and 2.73's :D

Harold,

Maybe I've asked this question before, but why is the duration at .050" different by 8 degrees between a solid and a hydraulic cam for the supposed same valve action??

At .050" there is no ramp effect, is there??

pdq67

Your post sounds almost identical to mine a year ago Looks like we have just about the same setup. I have learned a lot in the past year or so and here it is.....

Go with a Holly 850 dbl pmpr and use a 1/2" fuel line from front to back.

Get the Performer RPM manifold

Use the Summit 1 3/4" to 3" collector headers. (Can't beat the price :D )

I'm going with the Comp cams XE-284H after several weeks of research and questions here, I believe this will be the best cam for my needs which is 75% strip/25% street. Springs should be matched to the cam.

The cam you got from Harold should work very well for you (280/288H12 223/231 .525/.550) graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Good luck and keep us posted graemlins/waving.gif