First off I got here from my bro' (oktunes '65 SS velle) and I have a '68 Vette but find lots of info so thought I'd ask. OK guys, have block apart and cut piston ridges. Now shop says I have to go .30 over to clean up cyls. .007 out at top and .005 at bottom. Trying to decide to go with honing only or all the way with bore. I got car from friend who the prev. owner said was rebuilt 5000 mi ago. Right?? After tearing apart find it's a true '68 327/350 w/double hump 64cc and large journal crank and CE warranty motor. My good luck!! Going with Lunati 60103 and Performer carb (came w/car). Will use car for cruising and occasional stoplight action. Do you think this needs bore job or am I getting the 'it's a vette so lets get him?' I'm w/all the old school motorheads here. If going w/bore what's a good piston to keep comp around original 10.75-11.00 CR? Thanks guys.

First of all, i would bore it .030" over but use "torque plates" and i would go hyd roller and you will have plenty of HP, TQ, RPM'S and street manners

A 327 can do this if you want max performance and race gas bla bla bla

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/IMG_8502.jpg

The question we need to have an answer for is to bore or not to bore! Two local mechanics that have built smallblocks since the 50's say being out 7 at the top and 5 at the bottom isn't too much and a hone job with rings and it should be fine for street use and some occaisional hard use. Probably the car will see well under a thousand miles a year. So...bore or not?

The question we need to have an answer for is to bore or not to bore! Two local mechanics that have built smallblocks since the 50's say being out 7 at the top and 5 at the bottom isn't too much and a hone job with rings and it should be fine for street use and some occaisional hard use. Probably the car will see well under a thousand miles a year. So...bore or not?

As stated in post #2 bore it with torque plates
Do you want the best ring seal possible? If so, bore it with a torque plate and be done

He states it should be fine
Make sure it is, bore it .020" with stock replacment pistons from Federal mogul if your looking to keep it stock

.007 is the traditional magic number for deciding whether or not to re-bore. If it's .007 then it needs bored. If not done I predict you'll end up with an oil burner and smoker.

However, let it be said that it didn't get 007 in 5000 miles. that's a 100,000 mile type number. Somebody in this deal isn't telling the truth..... I suspect the shop since they've told you it needs a .030 to clean up a .007 taper. Also, there's usually no real wear at the bottom of a 5000 mile engine. At 5000 you should still be able to see the cross-hatching from the honing.

Take it to another shop, don't tell them it's out of a Vette. They don't need to know, y'know?

.007 is the traditional magic number for deciding whether or not to re-bore. If it's .007 then it needs bored. If not done I predict you'll end up with an oil burner and smoker.

However, let it be said that it didn't get 007 in 5000 miles. that's a 100,000 mile type number. Somebody in this deal isn't telling the truth..... I suspect the shop since they've told you it needs a .030 to clean up a .007 taper. Also, there's usually no real wear at the bottom of a 5000 mile engine. At 5000 you should still be able to see the cross-hatching from the honing.

Take it to another shop, don't tell them it's out of a Vette. They don't need to know, y'know?

Could not have put it any better, good job Tom :cool:

i have seen less miles than that ruin a good cylinder
I built an engine for a friend and he never bought an air cleaner for it and 6 months later the thing was covered with dust and smoking to beat all took it apart and it had a ridge as thick as a paper match
I say bore it Beware i see a lot of shops that are still using the old equipment that is hand held and beleive all cylinder walls need to be finished at 240 grit :noway: every one has their opinnion

i have seen less miles than that ruin a good cylinder
I built an engine for a friend and he never bought an air cleaner for it and 6 months later the thing was covered with dust and smoking to beat all took it apart and it had a ridge as thick as a paper match
I say bore it Beware i see a lot of shops that are still using the old equipment that is hand held and beleive all cylinder walls need to be finished at 240 grit :noway: every one has their opinnion

You should run as far away from those shops as possible :cool:

I've done this fine!!

Dingle-berry hone her and do a good valve job and go!!

NOT the best but the sucker will be fine!!

Sure, it will clatter and use/leak some oil, but it will be fine!!

It's just a "Krylon" overhaul.........

Beat on her HARD, short lived!! Drive her easy and she will go for years!!

pdq67